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PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE 



A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF 



FLORISTS' PLANTS, 



FOR THE 



AMATEUR AND PROFESSIONAL FLORIST. 



NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION. 



BY 

PETER HENDERSON, 

AUTHOK OP "gardening FOR PROFIT 

JKE8EV CITY HEIGHTS, 



ILLUSTRATED. 



^^copykightVv-, 






^ 



NEW YORK: J 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

2 4 5 B R O A D W A Y . 



5i) 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1ST4, by the 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

In tliG Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction 5 

Preface to Second Edition... 7 

CHAPTER I. 

Aspect and Soil 9 

CHAPTER II. 
Laying out the Lawn and Flower Gurdon 11 

CHAPTER III. 

Designs for Ornamental Grounds 13 

CHAPTER IV. 

Planting of Flower Beds 28 

CHAPTER V. 
Soils for Potting 32 

CHAPTER VI. 
Temperature and Moisture 35 

CHAPTER VII. 
The Potting of Plants. 41 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Cold Frames— "Winter Protection 50 

CHAPTER IX. 

Construction of Hot-Beds . . 52 

CHAPTER X. 

Green-house Structures .-. 53 

CHAPTER XI. 
Green-houses Attached to Dwellings 66 

CHAPTER Xir. 
Modes of Heating . 71 

CHAPTER XHL 
Base-Burning Water-Heater 77 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Propagation of Plants by Seeds 79 

CHAPTER XV. 
What Varieties come True from Seed 83 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Propagntion of Plants by Cuttings 89 

CHAPTER XVIL 

How Plants and Flowers are Grown 102 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Propagation of Lilies 108 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Culture of the Rose 112 

CHAPTER XX. 
Culture of the Verbena 140 

CHAPTER XXL 
Culture of the Tuberose 144 

3 



rv PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Orchid Culture 150 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
Holland Bulbs 153 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Cape Bulb?,Varieties and Culture 156 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Culture of Winter-flowering Plants 161 

CHAPTER XXVI. 
Construction of Bouquets, Baskets, etc 179 

CHAPTER XXVII. 
Wire Designs for Cut Flowers 194 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Hanging Baskets 196 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Parlor or Window Gardening 199 

CHAPTER XXX. 
.Wardian Cases, Ferneries, etc 205 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
Formation of Rock-work 206 

CHAPTER XXXII. 
Insects 207 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 
Arc Plants Injurious to Health? 217 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 
Nature's Law of Colors 218 

CHAPTER XXXV. 
Packing Plants .221 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 
Plants by Mail 223 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 
The Profits of Floriculture 224 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
How to become a Florist. 227 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 
Short Descriptions of Soft-Wooded or Bedding Plants of the Leading Kinds. 239 

CHAPTER XL. 
What Flowers will Grow in the Shade ? 242 

CHAPTER XLI. 
Green-house and Stove, or Hot-house, Plants 244 

CHAPTER XLII. 
Annuals, Hardy Herbaceous, Perennial and Biennial Plants, Ornamental 
Shrubs and Climbers 348 

CHAPTER XLIII. 
Culture of Grape-Vines under Glass 253 

CHAPTER XLIV. 
Diary of Operations for Each Day in the Year 262 



INTRODUCTION. 



The very flattering reception given my recent work on 
Vegetables — " Gardening for Profit " — ^has induced me to 
again enter the field of horticultural literature and ofier 
to the public what knowledge twenty years of varied and 
extensive experience has given me in floriculture. 

The subjects embraced by floriculture are now so vari- 
ous and comprehensive, that the difiiculty presenting itself 
throughout has been to compress the work into moderate 
limits, without omitting matters which it is requisite those 
looking for information should know. But in endeavoring 
to do so, it has been necessary to treat many subjects 
much more briefly than their importance deserved. 

It has been my aim to make this book meet the require- 
ments of the amateur and inexperienced florist, nnd in 
this I trust I have partially succeeded. To do so, I have 
had to give instructions on some subjects more in detail 
than will seem necessary to the experienced gardener ; but 
he should know that it is not for such as he that a book 
like this is written. It is for the amateur who takes 
pleasure in the work of, or superintendence of, his own 
garden or green-house ; or the unskilled florist in our 
country towns, who has no one to consult with or to copy 
from. With such I flatter myself that this book will be 
welcome, as filling a want that no work before written in 
this country has attempted to supply ; for all previous 
works have been written for the amateur, or amateur's 
gardener; commercial floriculture in all has been entirely 
ignored. 



VI rRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

The radical views advanced on some subjects will be 
scouted by many gardeners who have been trained, as I 
was, in the conservative schools. For some years T 
jDractised according to my early teachings, until in- 
creasing business and the dire necessity of more labor 
brought common sense to the rescue and enabled me to 
cut loose from prescribed rules to such an extent as now 
to produce better results, with half the labor, than was 
done a score of years ago. Had our practices in such 
matters been limited in tlieir extent, or in the length of 
time they have been in use, we could not have advocated 
their adoption with such confidence. Such modes, differ- 
ing from those of the " orthodox school,'" as we have 
described, have been in use by all successful florists of 
extensive practice in the vicinity of New York for the 
past twelve or fifteen years, and as " a tree is known by 
its fruits," so we say come and see the results produced 
by these methods, and judge whether or not they are 
worthy of imitation. 

My own knowledge and experience being defective on 
a few of the subjects treated of in this work, I have had 
the pleasure to receive the assistance of friends who have 
attained special eminence in the departments on which 
they treat. The plans for laying out gardens, together 
with the descriptions, are by the late Eugene A. Baumann, 
Landscape Gardener, of Rahway, N. J. ; that on the " Con- 
struction of Bouquets, etc.," is written by James H. Park, 
of Brooklyn, L. I. ; the chapter on " Orchids," is by 
James Fleming, Bergen City, N. J.; and that on " Yiolet 
Forcing," by Norton Bros., of Dorchester, Mass. 

Peter HendeesoNc 
Bergen City, JVl J., JVov. 1st., 1868. 



PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 

It is five years since I wrote the first edition of Prac- 
tical Floriculture. The business is a progressive one, and 
I find that to keep pace with the advancement in many 
pomts another edition is necessary. If the success of this 
edition proves equal to that of the first, I shall be abun- 
dantly satisfied. It gives me great satisfaction to know 
that my first work has been the means not only of helping 
thousands of those liaving a taste for floriculture to a bet- 
ter understanding of the subject, but that it has also 
helped hundreds of men, and some women, to drift into 
the pleasant and profitable occupation of Commercial 
Florists, and I have been the recipient of scores of letters 
from these giving the credit of their success entirely to 
" Practical Floriculture." 

In this edition is added a short treatise on the Culture 
of Foreign Grape-vines under Glass, written by Hugh 
Wilson, of Salem, Mass., who is well known in that sec- 
tion as a most successful Grape Grower. 

Peter Hendeesoi^. 

Jersey City H^eights, N'. J.^ \ 
November 1st, 1873. J 



PRACTICAL FLOEICULTTJRE. 



CHAPTER I. 

ASPECT AND SOIL. 

The Aspect of the Flower Garden, when choice can be 
made, should be towards the south, or south-east, and if 
sheltered by hills, or belts of timber, from the north-west, 
many plants and trees can be safely grown that could not 
otherwise succeed without that shelter. Such a situation 
also permits operations to be begun earlier in spring, and 
continued later in the fall, in some locations making the 
season from two to three weeks longer than if the aspect 
had been to the north or north-west. 

The soil in flower gardening, as in all Horticultural 
operations, is the basis of success, and is of more import- 
ance even than Aspect or Location ; and whether it is the 
man of wealth, looking for a site upon which to build, and 
surround his home with a flowery landscape, or the work- 
ing gardener about to become florist, and venturing his 
hard earnings in a first essay in business, let him first be 
certain that old " mother earth," in the spot about to be 
chosen, is in such condition as will reward his labors with 
success. Soils are so varied, that it is difiicult indeed to 
convey to the inexperienced by description, what the 
proper character should be. To say to the uninitiated, 
9 



10 rnACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

that the best soil for all garden purposes is a snndy loam, 
not less than 10 inches deep, conveys very little informa- 
tion, unless he is first made to understand what a sandy 
loam is. The subsoil, or stratum of earth immediately 
underlying the top soil, or loam, usually determines the 
quality of the soil. If it be gravelly, or sandy, then the 
top soil will almost invariably be a sandy loam ; but if the 
subsoil is of putty-like clay, then the top soil will usually 
be of the same nature, and be what is known as clayey 
loam. One great advantage usually in soils having a 
gravelly or sandy subsoil is, that the water passes oflf free- 
ly, rendering the expensive operation of draining unneces- 
sary, while in all soils with clayey subsoil, draining must 
be done, and thoroughly, or failure will certainly be the 
result. Those most to be avoided are what are known as 
**thin soils;" these may be either of sand, gravel, or clay, 
being in many places little more than " subsoil," without 
its stratum of loam. No process of manuring or cultiva- 
tion can ever bring such soils into a condition to compete 
with those naturally good ; for be it remembered that 
manures answer only a temporary purpose, and exert no 
permanent change in soil. Our richest market gardens, 
when left untilled, relapse into their normal state in three 
years. Thus it is in many parts of the Southern States, 
that plantations are said to be " worn out" in a few years, 
while in fact it is simply the supply of food to the plants 
that has been exhausted, the organic matter formed by 
decaying leaves or sods having been expended by the 
crops. 

Supply this want by fertilizers, and you again have the 
land in its primitive fertile condition ; but this must be 
continued, or the crops will again show indications of the 
soil being " worn out," but quicker, of course, on a thin 
soil than on a deep one. Hence the importance of select- 
ing, when a choice can be had, a deep soil, with a subsoil 
of sand or orravel. 



LAYING OUT THE LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. H 

CHAPTER II. 

LAYING OUT THE LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. 

The Lawn* — The preparation of the Lawn is usually 
preliminary to the laying out of flower-beds in grounds 
having pretensions to what is called Landscape Garden- 
ing. The preparation for the lawn is too often hastily 
and imperfectly made ; it is the foundation of all subse- 
quent operations, and if imperfectly done at first, the fault 
can never be remedied afterward. The first point is to 
get the grounds shaped to the desired grade, taking care 
in grading, that when hills are removed, sufficient subsoil 
is also removed, to be replaced with top soil; so that 
at leiast 6 inclies of good soil will overlay the whole in all 
places. Wlien the grading is finished, drains should be 
laid wherever necessary, then the whole should be thor- 
oughly plowed, a subsoil following in the wake of the 
common plow, until it is completely pulverized. A 
heavy harrow should then be applied until the surface is 
thoroughly fined down ; all stones, roots, etc., should be 
removed, so that a smooth surface may be obtained. The 
lawn is now ready to be sown; when the seed is sown, a 
light harrow should again be applied, and after that a 
thorough rolling given, so that the surface is made as 
smooth as possible. In the latitude of New York, the 
seed may be sown any time during the months of April 
and May, and will form a good lawn by August, if the 
preparation has been good; if sown in the hot months of 
June or July, a sprinkling of oats should be sown at the 
same time, so that the shade given by the oats will pro- 
tect tlie young grass from the sun. Lawns are also some- 
times sown during the early fall months with excellent 
results. For small plots, of course, digging, trenching, 
and raking must be done instead of plowing, subsoiling, 



12 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUKE. 

and harrowing, and when good material is at hand, and 
immediate effect desired, such plots may be turfed or sod- 
ded instead of being sown. 

The mixture of grass seed best suited for forming lawns 
is composed as follows : 

8 quarts Rhode Island Bent Grass. 

8 '' Creeping Bent Grass. 
10 " Red Top Grass. 
10 " Kentucky Blue Grass. 

1 " White Clover. 



1 Bushel. 



From 3 to 5 Bushels are required per acre, according to 
the condition of the soil, more being required on a poor 
soil than on a rich one. 

Laying out the Flower Garden. — In the vicinity of 
New York, the taste displayed in this matter is certainly 
not very flattering to us ; compared with that shown in 
the suburbs of London or Paris, we are woftiUy behind. 
Our city merchants annually build hundreds of houses, the 
cost of which ranges from $10,000 to $50,000 each, but 
the flower garden surrounding the house is in nineteen 
cases out of twenty left to the tender mercies of some ig- 
noramus who styles himself a " Landscaper," and who 
generally manages before he is through to make the pro- 
prietor appear to be utterly devoid of taste, if not actually 
ridiculous. A worthy of this stamp held kingly sway as 
a " Landscaper " in the vicinity of New York a few years 
ago, an\I has left behind him some wonderful specimens of 
his art ; he was great on " Sarpentine " walks, as he called 
them, and had a true artist's horror of straight lines. It 
would have been useless for Euclid to have attempted to 
demonstrate that the nearest distance between two points 
was a straight line. Terry knew better than that, and 
curved accordingly. One of the most marked of his 



DESIGNS FOK ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 13 

efforts was made in behalf of a " shoddy " king who had 
built a splendid mansion in about the middle of a four-acre 
lot. The carriage drive entering at each side of the plot, 
was made in his best " Sarpentine " style, but the centre 
approach, a six-foot walk for pedestrians, started at a 
point in the centre of the block, and was twisted like a 
corkscrew until it reached the hall door. The portly 
owner submitted like a martyr for awhile, but eventually 
snubbed Terry's science, obliterated the walk, and got a 
more expeditious, if less artistic method of getting to 
his home; his dogs and children, having less reverence for 
Terry's art, had long before taken the initiative. But 
this is only telling what not to do, which perhaps is as 
necessary as to tell what to do in the brief space that this 
subject can be treated of in this work. The following 
remarks and drawings are by the late Eugene A. Bau- 
mann, Esq., of Rah way, N. J., whose ability as a practical 
Landscape Gardener was perhaps second to none in this 
country; as the thousands of acres of tasteful grounds 
laid out by him in this and adjacent States during the 
past twenty years will attest. 



CHAPTER III. 

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS AND FLOWER 

GARDENS. 

DESIGN FOR A CITY OR VILLAGE LOT. 

Figure 1 gives a plan for a city or village lot of 
100x200 feet, fronting south, but without stable or carriage 
house. 

The dwelling at 1 is supposed to be without area, or 
entrance to the basement and cellars from outside, but 



14 PRACTICAL FLORICTJLTITRE. 

with the water-table, or first floor, raised above the 
ground some five feet, and the earth from the foundations 
and cellars employed for a terrace, rising about two and 
a half feet above the ordinary level, which is understood 
to be some two feet above that of the public road. 

This plan is entirely in the geometric style, or with 
straight walks exclusively, as we think that, considering 
everything, this arrangement is the most suitable for small 
lots. 

What, indeed, is the best use to which to put so little 
room ? Fruit trees, vegetables, and large pieces of lawn 
are not what are here required ; fruit and vegetables the 
proprietor may procure at the market cheaper than he 
could raise them ; lawns or grass plots would not be ac- 
cessible for any amusement or exercise in damp or rainy 
weather. Therefore I consider well-made walks, that may 
be dry in the afternoon of a rainy day, much more needed 
for the promenade of persons, who, having been busy all 
day, require some exercise and fresh air in the evening. 
Fine shrubbery, flower-beds, and shade are also required. 

In a planting of the right sort, it requires not much 
depth to form good belts to protect the place against the 
cold winds, or sometimes against cool neighbors. 

A large display of flowers does not require a very large 
space of ground, and if plenty of flowers should be 
wanted, as is generally the case, their quantity may be in- 
creased by a judicious selection of flowering shrubbery. 

For a more sheltered, shady walk, I should, in such a 
place, suggest a well-built arbor too, covered on top with 
ont-door grape vines, and on the side towards the house 
with fine flowering climbers, or those that have good and 
durable foliage, such as Climbing Roses and Honeysuckles, 
the Clematis, Akebia, Virginia Creeper, Bittersweet (or 
Celastrus scandens), Wistaria Sinensis, etc., as perma- 
nent plants, which may be trained so as to cover the whole 
front; and then, for variety, of a dwarfer habit and cover- 



DESIGNS FOR OENA^IENTAL GROUNDS. 



15 




ST R EELT. 
Fig. 1.— DESIGN FOR A VILLAGE LOT. 



16 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

ing the lower parts, the Madeira Vine, Canary-bird Plant, 
and Adlumia. Some of the new CucurbitacesB, the broad- 
leaved Periwinkle, Ivies, and a number of other sorts, 
may be recommended. 

I intend, in progressing with the explanation of the 
»mmbered objects of this plan, to give a list of such trees 
and shrubs as are required on a small place. It is a 
point which ought always to be considered, that trees and 
shrubs fit for a large place are not exactly suited to a 
small one, whatever may be their appearance or effect in 
the first four or five years ; the mistakes are only seen in 
after years. Fortunately for the generality of the " land- 
scapers," before the effect of their work is shown, the 
owner has removed to a bigger house, or the planting has 
been neglected and the trees have died, or the "land- 
scaper" has found employment far away out West, caring 
very little how his chef d^CQumes in the East may look. 

At 2 is the terrace, with the embankment. Small em- 
bankments ought to be of the most simple shape ; any 
fancy outlines in the slope, on a small scale, will only be 
seen when the grass is freshly cut short, and they are 
therefore of no use. 3 is the main approach to the dwell- 
ing. (See scale for width.) At 20, in a small circle, it is 
intended to employ a fine bush of Pyrus Japonica, to 
interrupt the view from the street. 4 is a smaller walk, 
intended for the use of the family, but forming with the 
walk 3 a continuous circuit around the place. 5 is intend- 
ed for a small yard in the rear of the house, with the well 
at 13. 6, a six-foot walk, passing underneath the arbor ; 
a shady place in summer. 7, the arbor, with only spare 
room enough left in its rear for attending to the climbers 
and grape vines planted against it. 8, intended to be a 
shed for wood and other articles, besides a hen-house, 
with hen-yard, at 10. 9, ofiice. 11, a bench, or resting- 
place. 12, benches, or even stone seats, in recesses. 14, a 
grass plot, to be used for a drying-ground, and also as 



DESIGNS FOE ORNAMENT Ali GROUNDS. 17 

a play-ground for children, surrounded by seven deciduous 
shade trees, which might be, in preference, the Silver- 
leaved Maple {Acer dasycarpum,) a healthy, strong-grow- 
ing, and clean tree. At 15, for variety of foliage, a Weep- 
ing-Willow. 16, a hedge-row of Siberian Arbor- vitje. 
17 is a flower-bed, with an outside border made of the 
small-leaved, trailing Juniper, or Juniperus procumhens. 
This magnificent plant, which, in small beds, forms the 
densest glaucous-green carpet, may be easily trained for a 
border by planting small young plants at 8 to 10 inches 
apart, and then guiding the main leader with small wooden 
pins in the direction of the border. It offers something 
entirely new in color and shape, and it is to be regretted 
that it is so little in use. 

A second border, immediately around the flower-bed, 
affording a greater contrast in color, would be the small 
Tom Thumb Arbor-vitse — a very precious novelty, too, 
on account of its very dark foliage. 

At 18, on the north-west side of the house, there would be 
a very favorable location for a group of Rhododendrons 
and other so-called North American evergreen shrubs. 

At 19, may be placed two single bushes of Calycanthus 
florid us, or, still better, two large vases or other pieces 
of statuary. 

At 21, a circle, to be decorated with a purple Beech, or 
a good specimen of the Kilmarnock Willow. 

At 22, all along the eastern boundary, a row of Norway 
Spruces, Balsam Firs, and American Arbor-vitae, in the 
rear, planted at suflicient distance from each other to per- 
mit a second row in front of them (alternating), about 4 
or 5 feet from the side of the walk. 

In this front line ought to be employed Siberian Arbor- 
vitae, Irish and Swedish Junipers, Golden Arbor-vitae, Up- 
right Yews, Retinispora ericoides, and Podocarpus. 

At 22 a^ in the rear of the play-ground, there ought to 
be the following shrubs, in three rows ; for instance, in the 



18 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

rear, the Venetian Sumac, Cercis Siliquastrum, and Cercis 
Canadensis, Double White and Ked Flowering Thorns, 
American Mountain Ash, etc., etc., but no larger trees. 

In the second row there might be planted (alternately) 
the Purple Hazel (or Filbert), the Halesia tetraptera, 
some Philadelphus, Euonymus, and Rose of Sliaron. 

In the third row, still smaller sorts, closing down to the 
edging, such as the Purple Barberry, Hypericum Kalmia- 
num, Daphne Mezereum, Cotoneasters, Prunus Sinensis, 
and Prunus triloba. Herbaceous Plants, like Peonies, 
Iris, Phloxes, etc., etc., may be added, too, to great ad- 
vantage. 

At 23, the group near the front fence must be stocked 
with such shrubs as will prevent outsiders from troubling 
the privacy of the place, but low enough to allow the in- 
mates to see the street from the piazza or first floor. 

The following plants may best answer, viz. : Spiraea 
Reevesii fl. pleno. Spiraea prunifolin, and Spiraea callosa, 
Deutzia crenata fl. pleno, Crataegus Pyracantha (near each 
gate), and in front of these, towards the house, Hypericum 
Kalmianum, Deutzia gracilis, Spiraea Fortunii, and some 
herbaceous plants. 24, a corner group, ought to be filled 
in the rear with one or two Virgilia lutea, and in front of 
these there should be some five or six ^sculus macro- 
stachya, a shrub of a remarkable fine efiect. 

At 25 and 26, the two small groups could be employed 
for Hydrangeas. 27 and 28 require, to hide the hen- 
yard, some taller shrubs of the following sort : the Cali- 
foriiian Privet, some Lilacs, and the Golden Elder {Sambu- 
cus nigra aurea.) 

The small border, 29, may be employed for some 
espaliers of Pears, Apricots, or Medlars. 

30 is intended for flower-beds, arranged in the most 
simple way, and which ought to be filled in the fall with 
Dutch bulbs for the spring season, and in summer with 
fine selected bedding plants, of very distinct colors, but 



DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 19 

each separate color in one strip ; or witli annuals, like Por- 
tulaca, Phlox Drummondii, Nemophilas, etc., etc. 

At a, in Div. 30, there may be some Magnolias, a Cercis 
Japonica, and one Berberis macrophylla, or Japonica. 

By mentioning exactly all the sorts of trees and shrubs 
that I might employ, I do not intend to say that the laying 
out may be a failure by employing other sorts, as corres- 
ponding varieties in size and foliage will answer just as 
well, but it will be noticed that I have mentioned no trees 
of large size, except along the eastern boundary and the 
play-ground. Indeed, of what nse would it be to employ 
Sugar Maples, Elms, Norway Maples, and Sycamores, 
which after a few years would cover up half the width of 
the place, and leave no room for good shrubbery and flow- 
ers; allow no sun in the place, and even prevent the turf 




Fig. 2. — SECTION OF PvOAD WITH SINGLE DRAIN. 

from growing under their extended shade? It would be 
as sensible as to place in a small drawing-room a table, of 
which the four corners would touch the four walls. 

In the selection of the right kind of plants is the whole 
secret of the art. 

The walks in such a regular garden must be as well 
graded as possible, and on the same level as the turf, 
which ought not to overreach them more than 1 or 1^ 
inch. Very narrow walks, unless the grass is frequently 
clipped, often look like ditches. 

To establish such walks, if there is any drainage re- 
quired, the digging out of the soil before stoning ought 
to be as clearly defined and done as well as the dressing 
of the top. 

The best way to dig them out is, in general, for single 
drains, according to the diagram, figure 2, and where 



20 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

double drains are required, I generally recommend the 
following system, shown in figure 3. 

It will be seen by the first diagram that the bottom of 
the ditch represented in the cut is an inclined plane, run- 
ning downwards from one side of the walk toward the 
opposite side to the drain, which I figure here simply as a 
stone drain. The stoning is to be laid uprightly, and 
never flat, on the hardened bottom of the ditch or dug- 




Fiff. 3. — SECTION OF ROAD WITH DOUBLE DRAINS. 



out trench ; if laid flat, the stones will never bind together, 
but if upright, they will soon become tight by the intru- 
sion of the gravel that has to be put on top of them. 

The depth of the trench depends very much on the 
quality of the subsoil, and has to be regulated by it, and 
so with the ditch for the drains. 

Such walks also depend very much on the quality of 
the soil, and very often, indeed generally, on the facility 
of procuring the materials. 

In some places I have seen walks and roads made by 
simply scratching ofl" three or four inches of light top soil, 
beneath which was gravel several feet deep. Such a road 
may be dry, but is very noisy, tiresome, and movable. 

In other instances I have seen walks made by opening 
ditches over four feet deep, only for the sake of burying 
rocks and saving the soil found in digging ; these form 
very fine drains, and help to clear the land of boulders 
and rocks, as is the^case on top of Orange Mountain, N. J. 

The second diagram (fig. 3) shows the section of a walk or 
drive requiring more drainage. The bottom between the 
two drain ditches forms a curving line, on which, if well 
placed, the stones will soon form an arch, and give the road 
all the qualities required. 



DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 21 

The depth here is not as much regulated by the .juality 
of the soil as by the width of the drive or roads. The 
more convexity given the bottom, the better for the 
absorption of the water by the drain, which ought to be 
at least 12 inches deeper than the extremity of the curve, 
whilst the top of the curve must remain at least 6 inches 
below the top of the road or drive. 

Frequent raking, to remove the larger gravel or pebbles, 
and more frequent rolling during damp weather, are neces- 
sary for new walks. 

If good clay is at hand, a thin coat of it may be put 
between the coarse and the fine gravel on top. 

Gutters made of flagstone, or simply paved, will be 
needed only where there is a great descent and a large 
accumulation of water above, or sometimes even where 
the ground is very light and sandy, although the surface 
may slope but very little. 

In uneven grounds, drives and walks are to be made in 
the same manner, but their finish and beauty will nevei 
depend upon themselves, nor upon the way in which they 
are laid down. An additional, correct grading of the 
grounds, right and left, so as to bring the sod every- 
where at equal height over the gravel, and then a careful 
grading of the grounds 3, 4, to 6 feet off the mai'gin, 
where the soil rises or falls, is indispensable in such cases 
to make a finished drive. 

The staking out of such uneven walks, and the regular 
distribution of their grading, to avoid unsightly ups and 
downs, is a matter of taste and practice, ruled by the 
shape of the land and the direction of the walks. 

DESIGN FOR A FLOWER-GARDEN. 

We give in figure 4 (next page) a design for a regular 
flower-garden, intended for the ornamenting of the foot 
of a terrace, built in front of a large villa. 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



The terrace is intended to be of a heavy stone work, 
about three feet above the ground, with a projection in 




Fig. 4. — DESIGN FOR A FLOWER GARDEN. 

the middle and two steps on each side, leading to the 
main walks in the flower-garden. 

Such an arrangement, often seen in English villas, or in 
English designs, belongs only to large pleasure grounds, 
and may be considered as the real " dress ground." 



DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 23 

This design has been expressly made with the view of 
keeping in order cheaply. 

The lawn, or what is to be kept in sod, is as much as 
possible in regular straight lines, easily mowed with some 
of the patent lawn-mowers. 

The walks are wide, as, starting from the bottom of 
the terrace, they will be overlooked the whole length 
from the top, and would appear scanty if not of liberal 
dimensions. 

The place is intended to be kept as private as possible, — 
a sort of open-air saloon, — by a belt of selected shrubbery, 
and shade trees in its rear. 

At 1, there are seats indicated in several recesses cut 
into the shrubs, the seats to be of heavy timber, as stone 
would be rather too cool, and iron or rustic work not 
looking architectural enough. 

At 2, there are pedestals for pieces of statuary, or vases 
or large specimen plants in painted boxes. 

At 3, 4, and 6, groups of Roses, bedding-out plants of 
broad, showy foliage, or flowering shrubs, such as Hydran- 
geas, which continue long in bloom. 

At 5, the centre piece, there is a large flower-bed for 
Scarlet Geraniums, Feverfew, etc., surrounded by a border 
of Irish Ivy, kept in line, so as not to exceed 12 to 18 
inches in width. 

Such borders of Ivy, if employed in the right place, 
and well kept in order, are a magnificent ornament to a 
garden, and, according to their location, may be kept 3 and 
4 feet wide. A very little covering in winter will keep 
the foliage, of the right sort, in very good order. 

In the large squares, plainly sodded, that are in the 
gardens of the Louvre and the Tuileries, at Paris, there 
is no other ornament but such borders of broad-leaved 
Ivy, established at 3 to 4 feet from the walks, and left 
running about 2 to 3 feet wide ; and they make, with the 
dark green or the lighter turf, a most striking show. 



24 



PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE. 








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" DESIGNS FOR OENAMENTAL GROUNDS. 25 

At 7, on the floor of the terrace, and protected by the 




Fig. 6. — DESIGN FOR A FLOWER-BED IN A. WALK. — (See page 25.) 



shade of the baUistrade, there will be a very good location 
for hardy Rhododendrons, and similar shrubs. 

DESIGN FOR A PARTERRE. 

The design (figure 5) represents a parterre to be 




Fig. 7.— DESIGN FOR FLOWER-BED IN A WALK.— (Sfe^a^re 36.) 

estabhshed in front of a large green-house, or conserva- 



26 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



tory, and bringing together, in one single spot, all the 
flower-beds generally scattered over the lawn, on a large 
place. For j^rivacy, it is surrounded by a belt of flower- 
in sr shrubs. 

Two principal flower-beds, at 1 and 2, are intended to 
be surrounded by a small evergreen border, kept for itself, 




• Fig. 8.— rLOWEU-BEDS AT THE JUNCTION OF WALKS.— (S'ee ;jaf/e 26.) 

and not to be considered as an edging ; small edging-box 
might answer best. 

At 3, there are recesses for statuary, behind which the 
foliage ought to be of tlie darkest kind, to keep the white 
statuary well in sight. 



DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 



27 



At 4, similar recesses for seats of heavy timber. 

At 5, in front of the green-house, alternating with the 
fiower-beds, are single, upright-growing evergreens, sym- 
metrically planted, such as Irish and Swedish Junipers, 
Taxus erecta, Podocarpus Japonica, Retinispora, etc. 
? At 6, single specimens of shrubs of medium size, 




Fig. 9. — FLOWER-BEDS AT THE TERMINUS OF A WALK. 

remarkable for their flowers, fragrance, or fine foliage ; 
for example, Deut^ia crenata flore pleno, Pyrus Japonica, 
Crataegus Pyracantha, or the Prunus triloba. 



FLOWER BEDS IN WALKS, OK JUNCTIONS OF WALKS. 

Figure 6 (p. 23), and the three following illustrations, are 
designs for introducing ornamental planting where oppor- 



28 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

tunity offers along the course of a walk. In figure 6, the 
walk divides and passes each side of a bed of choice shrub- 
bery, while the o^jposite sides of the walk are planted with 
some of the select shrubs already named, or others. By 
the judicious use of flowering shrubs, and the low-grow- 
ing evergreens, very fine effects may be produced. In 
figure 7, is a similar but more elaborate plan, which allows 
of the introduction of flowers in masses ; such an arrange- 
ment would be very appropriate for a rose-garden. In fig. 
8, we have a design for ornamenting the point at which 
two walks unite at right angles. The planting may be of 
Ivy, Trailing Juniper, and other low-growing Evergreens, 
upon a ground-work of well-kept grass, or flowers may be 
introduced. In figure 9, we have a bit of ornamental 
flower garden at the terminus of a walk. What has been 
said of the selection of shrubs, etc., in describing the larger 
designs, will be a sufficient guide in carrying out these 
Bmaller plans. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PLANTING OF FLOWER-BEDS. 

Much difference prevails in the modes of planting 
flower-beds, some holding to the promiscuous intersper- 
sion of the different plants, others to the ribbon or carpet 
style of planting, now so general in Europe. If the pro- 
miscuous system is adopted, care should be taken to dis- 
pose the plants in the beds so that the tallest plants will 
be at the back of the bed, if the border is against a wall 
or background of shrubbery, the others gradating to the 
front, according to height. In open beds, on the lawn, 
the tallest should be at the centre, the others grading 



PLANTING OF FLOWER-BEDS. 29 

down to the front, on all sides, interspersing the colors so 
as to form the most agreeable contrast in shades. But, 
for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be 
produced in promiscuous planting to equal that obtained 
by planting in masses or in ribbon lines. In the grounds 
of the Crystal Palace, near London, and at the Jardin des 
Plantes, in Paris, wonderful specimens of this mode of 
planting are to be seen. The lawns are cut so as to 
resemble rich green velvet ; on these the flower-beds are 
laid out in every style that art can conceive ; some are 
planted in masses of blue, scarlet, yellow, crimson, white, 
etc., separate beds of each, harmoniously blended on the 
carpeting of green. Then, again, the ribbon style is used 
in the large beds, in forms so various that allusion can 
here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous. In 
a circular bed, say of 20 feet in diameter, the first line 
towards the grass is blue Lobelia, attaining a height of 6 
inches ; next comes the famous Mrs. Pollock Geranium, 
occupying the space of 1|- foot wide and 9 inches high, 
with its gorgeous leaves and flowers ; then, against that, is 
a line of Mountain of Snow Geranium, with its silvery 
white foliage and scarlet flowers, backed by the chocolate- 
colored Coleus Yerschaffeltii ; the centre being a mound 
of scarlet Salvia. Another style is a fringe for the front 
of the fern-like white-leaved Centaurea gymnocarpa; 
back of that is the Crystal Palace Scarlet Geranium ; then 
Phalaris arundinacea picta, a new style of Ribbon Grass ; 
next, Coleus Yerschaffeltii, and, in the centre, a clump of 
Canna, or Pampas Grass. 

During my visit to Europe last year (1872) I visited 
the celebrated Battersea Park, the most interesting, in a 
horticultural view, of the many parks in the neighbor- 
hood of London. A feature peculiar to Battersea Park is 
the subtropical and alpine planting, both of which as here 
done were to us a novel feature of landscape-gardening. 
It was interesting to see how common and rough-looking 



30 PRACTICAL FLOKICLTLTUKE. 

plants were made to produce such wonderful effects when 
grouped and contrasted in the subtiopical arrangement. 
The plants used were mainly Cannas, Japanese Maize 
(striped), Wigandias, Ferdinandas, Bocconias, Sola- 
nums, and many of the tall-growing sorts of Amar- 
anths. These were grouped in beds of every conceivable 
form, some clearly defined on the broad lawn, some skirt- 
ing the edge of a clump of trees, others planted in and 
among the trees and shrubbery as undergrowth, giving 
the impression when looking at it under the leafy shade 
of trees that you were viewing an undergrowth of the 
tropics rather than a piece of the most artistical planting 
of an English park. One particular spot, which will not 
soon be forgotten, is a ravine of considerable extent, well 
shaded by tall trees, where were planted immense plants 
of tree ferns, the stems covered with Lycopodium, so ex- 
actly as to resemble what would be their condition in 
nature. Behind these and against the blue sky stood out 
strongly some gigantic Palms, so that we had here again 
a glimpse of what an Australian or Indian forest might 
seem. In direct contrast to these was a hill, a miniature 
Alp, planted from base to nearly the summit with alpine 
plants of the rarest kinds, among which were largely in- 
terspersed Sedums, Sempervivums, and other succulents, 
in rarity and variety sufficient to give joy to a botanist's 
heart. On the peaks and in the crevices of this little hill 
was planted closely one of the most common native plants 
of Britain, Anten7iaria dioica, one of the Everlastings, 
having white foliage, and this plant easily conveyed the 
impression of snow on the hill-tops and in its gullies. 
Altogether, on this little mound of half an acre, were 
planted probably three hundred distinct species. 

Then from this mound of botanical interest, the first 
turn brought us to a very different style of planting — the 
massing or ribbon style, or what would bo more appro- 
priately (as it is done here) called the " carpet style," 



I'LANTIXG OF FLOWEK-BEDS. 31 

for it often resembled just such patterns as would make a 
beautiful carpet. This style is meeting now with much 
opposition from Mr. Robinson, editor of the " Garden^'' and 
many others; but whatever may be objectionable to those 
whose conceptions of gardening are beyond this rectan- 
gular system, there is no denying the pleasure that it 
gives to the masses — as was apparent by the crowds ad- 
miring these flower-beds at Battersea Park, many persons 
being engaged in sketching the plans and taking notes of 
the varieties used to produce the eifect. This park of 
Battersea contains only two hundred acres. Its natural 
beauties are far inferior to either our Central, of New 
York, or Prospect Park, of Brooklyn ; but its judicious 
system of planting, which gives novelty and freshness at 
every turn, conveys to the visitor a lasting impression 
of pleasure that the plain, monotonous shrubbery and 
lawn of our New York parks can never give. The public 
parks in Britain or Ireland arc the best schools of taste in 
floriculture the people liavc to model from ; and so it 
should be with us, but with the few extremely limited at- 
tempts that have been made at the Central Park the past 
two years, there has been no ornamental planting of a 
public character in the vicinity of New York. Some fine 
examples of this kind of gardening may be seen in pri- 
vate grounds in the vicinity of Boston, and at Forest 
Hill Cemetery, at Roxbury, Mass., where the eflfects of 
massing may be studied to advantage. The climate of 
Boston is much less favorable for such planting than that 
of New York, yet it is followed with gratifying success. 
For beds, at a distance, having a background of shrub- 
bery, large and bright-colored foliage, or showy-flowering 
plants only should be used ; of these, an excellent eifect 
is produced by having Amaranthus sanguineus for the 
background, a j)lant of crimson foliage growing 6 feet 
in height ; next that. Salvia Gordonii, with its scarlet 
feather-like flowers, attaining a height of four feet, fronted 



32 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

by Dactylis glomerata variegata, one of the most "beauti- 
ful variegated grasses, which grows some 2 feet high. 

For narrow beds along the margins of walks, ribbon 
lines should be formed of low-growing plants, such as the 
white Lobelia Snowflake, for the front line, followed next 
by Tom Thumb Tropeolum ; then, as the centre, or third 
line. Fuchsia Golden Fleece ; as a second marginal line 
on the other side. Geranium Flower of Spring, with its 
white foliage and scarlet flowers, followed by a line of 
Lobelia Paxtonii. 



CHAPTER V. 

SOILS FOR POTTING. 

I rarely pick up a work on floriculture but the matter 
of soils is treated of in such a M^ay as to be perfectly be- 
wildering to amateurs, if not also to professional florists. 
One authority gives a table of not less than 19 sorts ! 
Whether these authorities practice as they preach is very 
questionable ; some of them I know do not, but why they 
should thus write to mystify those they attempt to teach, 
can only be ascribed to a desire to impress their readers 
with the profundity of their knowledge on such subjects. 
Now, what is the eflTect of such instructions ? Our ama- 
teur cultivators are disheartened, as such combinations are 
to them perfectly impracticable. The private gardener, 
perhaps, fails back on his employer, and ascribes the un- 
healthy condition of his plants to the efiect of his not 
being able to procure such and such a soil, which, he says, 
is necessary for some special class of plants, and excuses 
his failures thereby. The young florist, beginning busi- 
ness in some country town, with restricted means, and with 



SOILS FOR POTTIXG. 33 

limited knowledge of what he is imdertakiug, looks upon 
this august authority in despair, and his heart sinks within 
him when he knows that no silver sand is within a thou- 
sand miles of him, and he is told, without qualification, 
that it is necessary for his propagating bench, or as an 
ingredient in his potting soils. He begins without it, and 
as he will possibly make some failures, these failures are 
laid at the door of the soil or sand that he has been 
obliged to use, while the chances are, twenty to one, that 
they were not. Not the least satisfaction I have in writing 
this book is, that of being able to attempt the simplifica- 
tion of many of our operations to such an extent as to 
put the means of doing the work within reach of any 
one. Not the least simple of these operations is the 
preparation of our Potting Soil. We have, we may say, 
only one heap — a big one it is — but it contains only two 
ingredients, rotted sods, from a loamy pasture, and rotted 
refuse hops from the breweries, in about the proportion of 
two of the sods to one of the hops. The sods are cut 
during spring or summer, and laid, with grassy sides to- 
gether, so as to decompose, and the heap is repeatedly 
turned until it becomes friable. The rotted refuse hops 
(one year old), or rotted manure, is then added, either at 
once or when the soil is wanted for potting. For small 
pots, — from 2 to 4 inches — we run it through a sieve of ^- 
inch meshes, which thoroughly incorporates the parts ; for 
larger pots, it is not necessary to run it through a sieve, 
unless, perhaps, for the sake of thoroughly mixing, it may 
be quicker to run it through a l|-inch screen or sieve. If 
the loam is rather clayey, we use more hops ; if rather 
sandy, less than the proportion named. If refuse hops 
are not attainable, thoroughly rotted horse or cow manure 
will do nearly as well. From this mould heap the soil is 
taken in which our plants of every description are 
grown and flowered; we make no exceptions, unless 
in the case of the few fine-rooting plants, such as Heaths, 



34 PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Azaleas, Epacris, etc. In potting these, we use about 
two-thirds of the decayed refuse hops, to one of loam; if 
the hops are not attainable, leaf mould from the woods 
will do, in lieu of the hops, for this purpose. Our general 
mould heap supplies the soil, alike for Bouvardias, Be- 
gonias, Carnations, Camellias, Chrysanthemums, Daphne, 
Dracenas, Dahlias, Fuchsias, Ferns, Gazamas, Gardenias, 
Geraniums, Hyacinths, Liliums, Lantanas, Petunias, Pan- 
sies, Roses, Tuberoses, Violets, and Verbenas. Whether 
plants show vigorous growth under this universal applica- 
tion of soil to their varied natures, our hundreds of 
patrons, who will be readers of this book, can attest. If 
any of the disciples of the old school doubt this, let them 
come and have ocular evidence of the fact. Our location 
is within half an hour's walk (or 15 minutes' ride) of the 
city of New York ; our gates and doors are always open ; 
visitors are free to go and examine as they choose. They 
will see our mould heap looming up like a miniature 
mountain ; they will see hundreds of thousands of plants, 
natives of every clime, deriving their luxuriant growth 
from this one source. While ignoring the necessity of 
special varieties of soil, for special families of plants, I do 
not mean to say that plants may not be gro wn as well by 
the use of such different compounds as by ours ; but I 
claim, as a whole, they can be grown no better, and that 
the advice to make use of these combinations is bewildering 
to the amateur, or inexperienced gardener, troublesome in 
its practice, and of no benefit whatever in its results. In 
proof of this, I have, on different occasions, received 
Camellias from half a dozen different growers in Phila- 
delphia, hardly two of whom use the same soil, but all 
grow them well. So in the vicinity of New York, where 
the soil is varied at the different points, as much as soil 
can be ; yet we see growers using very different compounds 
with equally good results, showing, as has long ago been 
satisfactory to me, that special soils have less to do with 



TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 35 

the healthy growtli of plants than the proper application 
of temperature and moisture. In cities having paved 
streets, we find the sweepings to be a most valual^le in- 
gredient, which may be used to advantage in lieu of re- 
fuse hops, nianure, or leaf-mould. 



CHAPTER VI. 

TEMPERATUKE AND MOISTURE. 

Many young gardeners and amateurs flounder befogged, 
attributing failure of crops in the garden, or want of 
health of plants in the green-house, to bad seeds, uncon- 
genial soil or fertilizers, when it is much oftener the case 
that the cause is of a totally different nature, and entirely 
within their control. A temperature at wliich seeds are 
sown and plants grown must be congenial to the nature 
of the variety, else success can not follow. In a tempera- 
ture at which a Portulaca will vigorously germinate, a 
Pansy seed would lie dormant, or at least show a sickly 
existence, and vice versa. Nearly half of the Lima beans 
sown annually perish by being sown from two to three 
weeks too early, by the impatience of our embryo horticul- 
turists. On the other Imnd, the colder-blooded Carrot or 
Turnip seed all but refuse to germinate in the sultry days 
of July. Seeds of Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Chinese Prim- 
roses, and Pansies, will germinate more freely and make 
better plants by delaying the sowing until the middle of 
September than if sown earlier. Many failures are attrib- 
utable to want of knowledge of this fact, and, without 
question, laid to the charge of the seedsman. 

The same necessity of accommodating the temperature 



36 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

to the nature of a matured plant exists even to a greater 
extent than it does ^vith the seed ; and one of the main 
causes of want of success in cultivating plants under glass 
is a want of knowledge, or from carelessness in keeping a 
temperature unsuited to the growth of the plants. In 
ordinary green-house collections the fault is oftener in the 
temperature being kept too high than too low, for it is 
much easier, requiring far less watchfidness by the person 
in charge to keep up a high temperature. The injury 
done by this is gradual, and will not, like the action of 
frost on the plants, show in the morning. In consequence 
of this, we often see the green-houses containing Camel- 
lias, Azaleas, Pelargoniums, Carnations, etc., etc., swelter- 
ing under a continued night temperature of 60° or 65°, 
when their nature demands 15° lower. 

It is true, we too often see collections of hot-house and 
green-house plants intermingled, and attempts made to 
grow them, which, of necessity, result in failure to one or 
the other. The temperature to grow, in healthy condition, 
Coleus, Bouvardia, or Poinsettia (hot-house plants) would 
not be likely to maintain Verbenas, Carnations, or Gerani- 
ums lofig in a healthy state. The same rules follow as to 
the propagating-house, showing the necessity, even in a 
greater degree, of observing the requirements of their differ- 
ent natures. Coleus, Bouvardia, Begonia, and Lantana root 
in a bottom heat of 75°, with atmospheric temperature of 
65°, in ten days ; at 20° lower they will not root at all, 
but will perish. Although cuttings of plants of a more 
hardy nature will root in some conditions of growth at 
this temperature, yet we prefer, to insure plants of vigor^ 
ous health, that Verbenas, Carnations, Geraniums, Roses, 
etc., be rooted in a temperature at least 15° lower, both 
in the bottom heat and temperature of the house. 

The subject is one that relates to so many varieties and 
different conditions of organism at the different seasons 
of growth, that it is impossible to convey to the inexperi- 



TEMPERATURE AN^D MOISTURE. 37 

enced what these varieties and conditions are; but my 
object is to impress upon young or inexperienced readers 
what I have long believed to be an important truth — that 
the supplying the proper conditions of temperature to 
plants under glass, according to their different natures 
and conditions, has as much, or more, to do with their 
welfare than any other cause ; and that often when ascrib- 
ing the unhealthy state of a plant to uncongenial soil or 
defective drainage, or the "damping off" of some favorite 
cutting to the way it was cut or the sand it was put in, 
the true and sole cause of failure was nothing more than 
condemning them to an atmosphere uncongenial to their 
nature. 

Thus far, we mainly allude to temperature. Serious 
injury is often done to plants from a want of, or excess of, 
moisture. The old gardener with whom my first essay in 
gardening was made used to define the difference in dryness 
in plants as " dry " and " killing dry ;" " dry " was the 
proper condition that the plant should be in, when water 
was applied, the surface indicating dryness by becoming 
lighter, but no flagging or wilting ; but woe betide the 
unfortunate that allowed a plant in charge to become in the 
condition of " killing dry ;" this in his eye was an unpar- 
donable offence. " Killing dry" was, to some extent, really 
killing in such a collection as we grew, which consisted 
largely of Cape Heaths, Epacris, and other hard-wooded 
plants, which are easily killed outright by allowing their 
tender, thread-like rootlets to become dry; unlike soft- 
wooded plants, such as Geraniums, or Fuchsias, they have 
less recuperative powers, so that a " dry" that would kill 
a Heath would have only the effect to stagnate the growth 
of a Geranium, and bring the tell-tale yellow leaves that 
are certain to folloAV whenever such plants have suffered for 
a lack or excess of moisture. Althous^h the effect of drv- 
ing is, for the time being perhaps, less marked in a hard- 
wooded plant than in a soft-wooded one, yet the ultimate 



38 



PHACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



effect is mucli more fatal. To the unpractised eye, a Heath 
that has been injured by drouth may appear all right, 
Avhile it is gone beyond recovery. The old gardener 
before alluded to used to make his dead Heaths do excel- 
lent service in assisting him in some severe jokes played 
on his less experienced brethren. Specimen plants of 
Heaths were scarce, and in some sorts, very valuable, and 
if he succeeded in making a present of one of these dead 
plants to one of his less posted friends, it used to keep 
him m good humor for a week. 

No i)lant should ever be allowed to flag or wilt for 
want of moisture, neither should it be watered until the 
necessity for water is shown by the whitening of the 

surface of the soil, 
particularly if in 
dull weather, or if 
the green-house is 
kept at a low tem- 
perature. As a 
rule, with green- 
house plants kept 
in a night temperature of 45°, Avith a day temperature of 
6^^, watering twice a week from December to March will 
generally be sufficient ; on the approach of clear weather, 
with higher temperature in April and May, they will re- 
quire daily attention. 

Our practice is to water during Avinter with the common 
rose watering-pots, of the pattern shown in fig. 10, giving 
the plants water sparinglj^, or otherwise, as required. 
But as spring opens, we go at the operation more expe- 
ditiously, using a West's Force Pump (fig. 11), and 2-ineh 
rubber hose. To the end of the hose is attached a heavy 
sprinkler, similar to that show' n in the common watering-pot 
(fig. 10). In all districts where there is no hydrant-water, 
this means of w^atering will be found to be most thorouo-h 
and effective. In my work, " Gardening for Profit," I 




Fij^. 10. — WATERING-POT. 



TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 



39 



expressed the opinion that no labor-saving appliance we 
had ever used was so satisfactory as this ; two years have 
passed since then, and, with increased work to do, we are 
still more than satisfied. One man pumps, another regu- 
lates the water and sprinkles it over the plants; each 
green-house, of 100 feet long by 11 feet Avide, is watered 
thoroughly in 15 minutes ; the changing of the hose from 
one house to another re- 
lieves the workman from 
the labor of pumping for 
a few minutes, so that 
when the change is made 
of the hose to another 
house, he is ready to 
start afresh again. By 
this mode of watering, 
we not only give the 
plants a thorough drench- 
ing, but we save at least 
three-fourths of the labor 
that is usually spent in 
watering with the water- 
ing-pot. Some may ob- 
ject to this rough-look- 
ing way of watering 
plants; to such we say, 
even with the danger of 
being thought to be 
puffing our own wares, come and look at the results of 
such rough work. We have now practised it for the past 
four years, and have lost thousands of dollars by not 
having done so fi"om the beginning. 

Two rules are laid down by nearly all writers that I 
have read on floriculture, in reference to the water to be 
used for plants ; one, that it must be rain, or at least 
" soft " water ; the other, that the.water should be of the 




Fig. 11. — west's force pump. 



40 PRACTICAl. FLORICITLTUEE. 

same temperature as the atmosphere in which the planti 
are growing. 

To both these dogmas, I beg to respectfully enter my 
protest. Such dogmas are handed down from one to 
another, without one in a hundred of those who hold 
them having either the opportunity or inclination to test 
their truth by experiment. My green-houses, at Jersey 
City, for a dozen years, were entirely watered from a deep 
well of hard water, winter and summer, which might 
average in temperature 40° ; most of my green-houses, 
now at Bergen City, are watered from cisterns inside the 
green-houses, from rain-water caught by the roof; yet we 
have never been able to see that our plants have been any 
better groAvn or liealthier in one place than in the other. 
If any one will take the trouble to reason for a minute, 
he will understand why there is no necessity for this 
equality of temperature between the water and the soil. 
If we plunge a thermometer into the soil of a plant in the 
hot-house, it may indicate say 80° ; if we pour a pint of 
water at 40° into the soil, the temperature will not be 40°, 
but about the mean between 40° and 80°, say 60°. Now 
if the soil remained for any length of time at 60°, it might 
be claimed to be injurious ; but it does not. In 10 minutes 
it will become of the same temperature as before it was 
watered, or nearly so, by the absorption of heat from the 
atmosphere of the house. It is the duration of extremes 
of temperature that does the mischief; place a plant of 
Coleus in a temperature of 33° for 24 hours, and it will be 
almost certain to die, while it would remain as many 
minutes without injury. Let a dash of sun raise the tem- 
perature of your hot-bed to 100°, or over, for 10 minutes, 
and it will not seriously injure the contents, but an hour 
of this temperature might destroy the whole. 

We pour ice-water into our stomachs at a temperature 
of less than 40°, with impunity, because but a few minutes 
suffices to bring it to the temperature it meets with there ; 



THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 41 

did we swallow a sufficient quantity to keep the stomach 
at the temperature of ice-water for any length of time, 
fatal results would follow. 

A point indispensable in our hot and arid climate is, 
that all plants in the green-house should stand on close 
benches, overlaid with sand or ashes, or some such mate- 
rial. This keeps moist and prevents the plants from suf 
fering, if any omission occur in watering. We know that 
the practice in many places is entirely different from this, 
the plants being stood on benches of open slat-work. 
No plant can be kept healthy in such a place, unless with 
at least double the labor of watering necessary with those 
standing on sand. This, like many other of our mistakes, 
is copied from the mode pursued in England, where a 
colder, moister, and less sunny climate may make it a 
necessary practice. 

For this reason also, we prefer to use benches, or tables, 
instead of the stair-like green-house stage, which is now 
almost discarded. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 

The first operation of potting is when the rooted cutting 
is transferred from the cutting-bed to the pot. Almost 
without exception, plants of every variety, at this stage, 
should be placed in a 2-inch pot ; occasionally some of the 
coarser-growing Geraniums may require the 3-inch size, 
from the fact of the roots being too large for the 2-inch ; 
but there are few exceptions of this kind. The great 
mass of plants, when in the condition of rooted cuttings, 



4:2 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUKE. 

do much better in the smaller size, for the reason that the 
smaller mass of soil in the 2-inch pot allows the moisture 
to pass off quicker, and thereby prevents the soil from 
becoming sour, or sodden, which would be the case, more 
or less, if the cutting had been overpotted in a 3 or 4-inch 
pot. The operation of potting cuttings is very simple, 
and, in florists' establishments, is performed with great 
rapidity, average workmen doing 200 plants per hour. 
The pot is filled to the level with soil, a space made with 
the finger, in the centre of the soil, of sufiicient size to 
admit the root, which is placed in the opening thus 
made ; the soil is closed in again by pressing with the 
thumbs, close to the neck of the cutting, which firms the 
soil around the root ; a smart rap is struck the side of 
pot with the hand, which levels the surface of the soil, and 
the operation is done. For nearly all the commoner kinds 
of bedding plants, such as Verbenas, Heliotropes, etc., 
cuttings in these 2-inch pots, if stood on tables, which are 
covered with an inch of sand, and occasionally moved, to 
keep the roots from pushing too far through into the sand, 
will grow in a healthy condition from three to four 
months, at least, at the cool season of the year, from 
January to May. But when plants are required to be 
grown as specimens, or of larger size for sale in spring, 
they must be repotted at intervals, as the condition of 
their growth demands ; for example, to grow a Fuclisia 
of a height of 6 feet and 3 feet in diameter, a pot of at 
.east 12 inches across at top, and 12 inches in depth, would 
be necessary, but it would not do to jump from the 2-inch 
cutting pot to this size at once ; three or four different 
shifts are necessary to attain this end ; these shifts should 
be made, as a general thing, not greater than fi'om a 2- 
inch size to a 4-inch, and so on. I know that, a few years 
ago, considerable agitation was made in favor of what w^as 
termed the "one shift system," and fine specimens were 
exhibited by its advocates, to show its advantages. There 



THE TOTTING OF PLANTS. 43 

is no question that, in the hands of a careful and experi- 
enced man, it can be done, but it must necessitate much 
closer watching in watering, involving much more labor 
than the trouble of the safer plan of repeated shiftings. 
The time to shift a plant from a smaller to a larger pot is 
shown by the roots beginning to mat around the outer 
surface of the ball. It is not necessary to shift when the 
first roots touch the side of the pot ; let them curl pretty 
well around the ball, but they must not be allowed to 
remain long enough to become hard or woody. They must 
be of that condition known to gardeners as " working 
roots," a condition not very easy to describe, unless to 
say that the appearance of such roots is white, soft, and 
succulent. We would think that the mode of shifting a 
plant from a smaller to a larger pot would soon suggest itself 
to the operator, even though he had never seen it done ; 
but it is a little ludicrous to see the various absurd 
methods sometimes resorted to by our amateur friends to 
attain this very simple end. One proceeds with a knife 
and inserts it all around the sides of the pot, and thus 
scoops it out ; another favorite way is to break the pot 
with a hammer. I have known many of our lady amateurs 
to j)ractice these methods, who, no doubt, knew well how 
to turn a pudding or a jelly out of a form, but who did 
not think that the ball of earth enveloping the roots of a 
plant could be turned out of a flower-pot in the same way. 
In most cases, the slightest tap on the edge of the pot is 
sufficient to turn out the ball of earth. Soil, in depth ac- 
cording to the size of the plant, should be placed in the 
bottom of the pot, the ball placed in the centre, and the 
soil packed moderately firm in the space, either by the 
fingers or by a piece of stick made cf suitable size for the 
purpose. When plants are first potted ofi*, or shifted, they 
should be stood with the pots touching each other, if the 
diameter of the plant is less than that of the pot ; but, a& 
they begin to develop growth, the plant? should be spread 



44 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

apart, according to their size or development of foliage, 
to allow the air free circulation about the outside of the 
pots. The effect of this is most marked in the green- 
house, and teaches us a lesson as to the great necessity of 
the admission of air to the roots in all our operations, 
whether under glass or in the open field. If we pot off a 
lot of Fuchsias, Geraniums, or other large-leaved plants, 
with the pots touching each other, and place them in a 
temperature of 60°, in eight or ten days they will have 
grown so as to cover the whole space over, so that the pots 
can hardly be seen. Examine those in the centre of the 
lot, and it will be found that the roots that have reached 
to the side of the pot are few and feeble ; but move a por- 
tion of the pots so that a space of an inch or two is made 
between each, to give the air a free circulation around 
the pots, and in six days after it will be found that strong 
and healthy roots will have been emitted by those that 
have been given the additional space, while the others left 
standing close have made little or no progress in root 
formation, and but a slender and weakly upward growth. 
The roots in the open field, could we see them in their 
unbroken state, as we can in turning out a plant from a 
pot, would show the same differences in vitality under cor- 
responding circumstances. 

It has often been a matter of surprise to many amateurs, 
and even professional gardeners, how it is that such extraor- 
dinary vigor and health are obtained in the plants grown by 
many New York florists, in pots that seem to be entirely 
inadequate in size for the support of such vigor. This is 
done by a practice not very generally known outside of 
this vicinity. When a plant shows by the condition of its 
roots that it requires a supply of fresh soil for its support, 
instead of shifting it into a large pot, it is taken out and 
the soil washed clean from the roots, and either placed 
back again in the same pot, in fresh soil, or in one of 7i 
single size larger. 



THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 45 

This washing the soil from the roots, instead of shaking 
it off, has the advantage of leaving all the fibres or work- 
ing roots intact, while by shaking the soil off the ball, the 
most valuable parts of the root are injured. Plants thus 
grown are particularly valuable for distant shipment, as a 
strong-rooted and vigorous plant is obtained without the 
necessity of shipping a heavy weight of soil. 

The same practice is resorted to in another way, to 
effect a saving of freight in shipments. For many years 
we have sent to our patrons in tlie trade thousands of 
plants annually, every particle of soil being first washed 
from the roots ; the plants, in all cases, arriving in as fine 
order as if they had been sent with the ball of soil around 
them, and saving at least nine-tenths of the freight. 

This practice, however, is not proper, unless the season 
is early enough for the plants to have time to become 
established in the pots, and it is not prudent to do so later 
than March. If the weather is hot, more care is neces' 
sary in shading the plants until they have begun to root 
in the new soil. 

I have never yet seen any writer on floriculture but who, 
in his instructions on the potting of plants, reiterates the 
cry of his predecessors about the imperative necessity of 
draining pots, in the operation of shifting or potting 
plants. This draining process is performed in various 
ways, according to the school in which the operator has 
been trained, or whose book authority he has taken as his 
guide ; one simply places a piece of potsherd, or crock, 
over the hole in the bottom of the pot ; another goes at it 
more elaborately, placing large pieces below, and grading 
off with finer ones, to the height of 2 or 3 inches ; another 
finds great virtue in charcoal, as a drainage, used in the 
same way ; another knows that oyster-shells, for that pur- 
pose, cannot be excelled, and practices accordingly. 

Now fifteen years' extensive practice in the growing of 
plants, without the use of crocks, charcoal, or any other 



46 PEACTICAL FLOEICULTTTRE. 

substitute, has led me to believe that the system is utterly 
wrong in theory and perfectly useless in practice. 

It is wrong in theory, for I contend that the escape of 
moisture or draining from the flower-pots takes place, in 
a very slight degree, from the bottom, but almost entirely 
from the porous sides of the flower-pot. Every gardener 
knows how quickly the soil gets sour in a glazed, a dirty, 
or a hard-burned pot, let him drain or crock it as he will, 
and that yellow leaves and a sickly growth quickly fol- 
low. If the patient is not too far gone, removal from the 
glazed pot to one of proper texture will quickly recusci- 
tate, even if the draining or crocking is dispensed with. 
Whenever we wish to recuscitate an unhealthy plant, we 
wash the soil from the roots and pot in a 72eio pot, where 
the drainage is perfect from its porous sides. What better 
evidence can be given than this universally known fact 
that the theory of the operation is wrong? Whether 
this sufficiently proves the theory of the operation to be 
wrong, may be questioned by some, but that the system 
is useless, utterly useless, in our practice, cannot very well 
be questioned. It is upwards of fifteen years since I 
utterly dispensed with the use of the so-called draining 
of pots ; in that time some millio7is of plants have been 
grown by us, and few will say, from the apj^earance of 
the plants, that they suffered by the deviation from the 
orthodox system. 

In our annual importations of English novelties, at prices 
often double their weight in gold, the pots always come 
filled one-third up with the inevitable potsherd. Little 
reverence is had for this labor of poor John Bull ; the 
smallest boy in our establishment learns to sneer at him 
when he sees the drainage dispensed with, and the pam- 
pered llO.OOnovelty growing vigorously under our radical 
regime. 

"Ah ! but " exclaims some dyed-in-the-wool old fogy, " it's 
all very well on your Roses and soft-wooded plants ; dis- 



THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 47 

pcnse with your ci*ocking in growing Azaleas, Heaths, 
Epacris, Camellias, and you will soon see how it will 
result." Now if my theory is correct that the plant drains 
from tlie sides, and not from the bottom of the pot, the 
variety of plant has nothing to do with the matter, and 
for that reason it makes v.o difference what is the size 
or what the kind of plant grown, be it 6 inches or 6 feet, 
be it a Scarlet Geranium or an Orchid. But though I 
do not grow them now, I have grown Heaths, Camellias, 
and Azaleas, without crocking, just as creditably as we 
grow anything else. Heaths particularly, at one time, 
we grew largely, supplying them to the trade in large 
quantities, for winter flowers. I am glad to know that 
nearly all the larger florists' establishments thoughout the 
country have abandoned this useless practice. I do not 
know one in the vicinity of New York but where it is 
ignored, unless, perhaps, when in growing large plants 
of Roses or Camellias in boxes or tubs ; but, in such cases, 
there is not much chance for admission of air or evapora- 
tion from the sides, and, to compensate for this, the 
box or tub is usually filled with potsherds or charcoal to 
one-third its depth. And, again, perhaps when pots too 
large for the size of the plant are used, drainage to one- 
third the depth is employed to counteract the injury that 
would be done by too great a mass of soil around the 
roots. That plants are grown as well in our florists' 
establishments here as they are in England, there is but 
little question. If the specimens of plants that we import 
annually are fair examples, we think far better, although 
I do not mean to say that the use of crocks is the difii- 
culty ; but in these large European establishments the pro- 
prietor is apt, in many cases, to get above his business, and 
leave it to the care of his subordinates. One great bar 
to changes is the easy maxim, that we are all apt to 
hold, "Let well enough alone." This, perhaps, is what 
makes thousands excuse themselves for what I think is an 



48 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

utterly useless practice in this case. Throwiug a liandful 
of potsherds into the bottom of a pot will certainly not 
injure the growth of a plant, neither would a gold dollar, 
but neither would do any good ; the dollar would have 
bought something, and so would the labor thrown away 
in this useless operation. 

An old farmer, in planting a peach orchard, in one of 
the inland counties of this State, was informed by some 
obliging neighbor that it would greatly improve their 
growth if he would place a shovelfull of small stones 
under each tree ; as chance would have it, the soil and 
climate being suitable, the orchard was a success, and to 
this day no man is supposed to know any thing about 
planting peach trees in that neighborhood unless he knows 
sufficient to place a few stones under the roots ! Most of 
our gardeners would laugh at these credulous farmers, but 
to my notion, it is not one whit more absurd to place a 
shovelfull of stones under a peach tree than it is to throw 
a handfuU of potsherds into the bottom of a flower-pot 
before potting the plant. 

The amateur, in potting his plants, will find it neces- 
sary to place something over the hole in the bottom of 
the pot, not for the purpose of drainage, but to prevent 
the soil from shaking out. The hole may be covered 
with a bit of broken pot, an oyster shell, chip, or what- 
ever is at hand. 



EXPERT GARDEN WORKMEN. 

In my long experience with workmen I have observed 
that, other things being equal, the man who could move 
his hands quickest, was almost certain to be tlie man most 
successful in life. Rapid movement of the hands in such 
light operations as writing or tyjie-setting ai-gue quick 



EXPERT GARDEN AVORKMEJST. 49 

mental decision, and if such a mind is well-balanced, its 
possessor is more likely to distinguish himself than he 
who moves more sluggishly. Now, two-thirds of all gar- 
den operations — particularly those of flower-gardening — 
are as light as either writing or type-setting, and for 
many years I have taken great pains to stimulate my 
workmen to rapidity of movement in all our light work, 
and it is astonishing what the gain in labor has been in 
this particular. For example, the average work of a man 
planting cabbage or lettuce plants, when we began mar- 
ket-gardening, did not exceed 2,000 a clay; now, and for 
many years past, a man, with a boy to drop the plants, 
will set 6,000 a day, and one of my old foremen, John 
Scarry, now gardener to Dr. Thos. Yail, of Troy, N. Y., 
has repeatedly planted 10,000 in a day. In the lighter 
work of our green-houses rapid movement is even of 
more importance, and the rivalry among our workmen for 
distinction in this matter is of great benefit to themselves 
as well as to us. The acknowledged champion, at pres- 
ent, of our whole force of forty men is a young Irishman 
named James Markey. Jim, though not yet 25, has been 
w^ith me a dozen years or more, and from the first has 
distinguished himself for doing all light operations 
quicker and better than any boy of his years, and pro- 
bably to-day can make more cuttings, or pot more plants, 
in the same space of time, than any other man in Amer- 
ica. It is very good average work for one man to pot 
off in 2^ L-inch pots 2,000 cuttings in ten hours. Jim 
potted off one day of ten hours, this spring, 10,000, while 
his average work of this kind is 5,000 a day. Of course, 
such ability commands its price, and Jim is paid quite 
twice that of most of his fellows, and is much valued by 
me as an example well worthy of imitation. 



50 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

CHAPTER YIIL 

COLD FRAMES.— WINTER PROTECTION. 

Many of the plants used for the decoration of the flower- 
borders in summer may be kept through the M'inter in 
what are termed cold-frames, or sunken pits. Tliese are 
formed by excavating the earth about 2 feet deep and of 
a width to suit the usual 6-foot sash, and of such length 
as may be required. The sides of the pit are boarded up, 
on the front or south side, to a height of 8 or 10 inches, 
and at the back or north side, some 6 inches higher, to 
give the necessary slope to carry off the water from the 
sashes and to better catch the sun's rays. Thus foi*med, 
the frame will measure about 3 feet deep from the sash in 
front and about S^ feet at the back. Or, if the work is 
desired to be permanent, the sides may be built of brick 
instead of boards. 

Above all other considerations, the place where the pit is 
built must be free from standing water, and if not naturally 
dry, must be drained so as to carry off the water. When- 
ever practicable, the situation should be warm and well 
sheltered, as such a position will save a great deal in 
winter covering. In such a pit tender Roses can be kept 
in the best possible condition, better, in our opinion, than 
in any green-house. If kept in pots, (which is the best 
way to keep them) the pots should be plunged to the rim 
in sawdust, leaves, tan bark, or some such light material. 
Besides Roses, the plants embraced in the following list 
may be wintered over with safety, provided that care is 
taken to admit light and air, whenever the weather will 
permit. The pits must be thoroughly covered up at night 
vsith mats and shutters; this, if well done, will keep 



COLD FRAMES WINTER PROTECTION. 51 

the plants from freezing injiiriously in any district where 
the thermometer does not fall more than 15° below zero. 

Azaleas, Pentstemons, 

Antirrhinums, Verbenas, 

Carnations (Monthly), Stock Gilliflowers. 

Camellias, Wallflowers. 

Fuchsias, Roses of all kinds. 

Geraniums, Pinks, (Florists'.) 

Plants to be kept over in frames should be potted at 
least a month previous to the setting in of cold weather ; 
all had better be well established in the pots before the 
middle of ISTovember, and until that time the plants should 
be fully exposed to the light and air, by the entire removal 
of the sashes, unless on unusually harsh and cold days. 
From the middle of November to the middle of March but 
little watering will be required. In cases of severe snow- 
storms, the pit may remain covered up, if the weather is 
cold, for a week at a time, without exposing the plants to 
the light, and Roses, Camellias, or Azaleas, in a dormant 
state, may remain even a month ; but, as before said, 
whenever practicable, admit light and air. For out-door 
protection of Roses, see chapter devoted to them. 

To amateurs we would say that many plants may be 
saved in a dry, cool cellar much better than they can be 
kept in most sitting-rooms. The plants that can be best 
kept during winter in the cellar are Carnations, Fuchsias, 
Geraniums, Roses, Lemon Verbenas, and Dahlia roots. 
If the plants are to be lifted from the ground, cut away 
all strong-growing shoots ; in the case of Geraniums or 
Fuchsias, cut them well in, and plant them in shallow 
(9-inch deep) boxes of soil, keeping them exposed to the 
open au- as late as the weather will permit. This can best 
be done by taking them into some shelter at night and 
exposing them to light and air through the day ; this will 
harden them to endure their winter quarters in the cellar. 
Once placed in the cellar, if cool and moist, as cellars 



52 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURK. 

usually are, no water should be given until tliey are again 
moved out to the light in May. Remember that thus im- 
mersed in the dark cellar in their dormant state, water or 
moisture would injure them beyond recovery, unless they 
have become unusually dry. 



CHAPTER IX. 

CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS. 

The most economical way of making hot-beds is to 
place the manure in pits made in the way described for 
Cold Frames, except that they may be made a foot or so 
deeper, so as to admit at least 18 inches of manure. 
The heating material for hot-beds is usually horse-manure, 
but refuse hops, leaves from the woods, or tan bark, will 
answer nearly as well when one is more readily attainable 
than another. 

Whatever material is employed, it should be thrown into 
a heap of sufficient size to generate heat, and repeatedly 
turned until the rank heat has been expelled, which will 
usually be done by turning twice. The mass will be in the 
proper condition to be put into the pit in eight or ten 
days from the time of starting with the raw material. In 
spreading it in the pit it should be firmly trodden down 
to the depth of 18 inches, so that the heat may be longer 
retained. If the hot-bed is to be used to receive plants 
in pots, a covering of 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, in which 
to place or plunge the pots, should be put over the 
heatino; material. If the bed is to be used for the sowiusc 
of annual or other seeds, a covering of 6 inches of light 
soil should be put over the manure. Before placing plants 
or sowing seeds in the hot-bed, plunge a thermometer 
in the bed, and when the heat begins to decline from 100 ' 



CONSTBUCTION OF HOT-BEDS. 53 

then operations may be begun with safety. But for what- 
ever purpose a hot-bed is used, in all such latitudes as 
New York, the bed should never be made before the first 
week in March ; great risk is run if it is made much sooner 
with but little advantage in earliness. Greater caution is 
necessary in airing than with the cold frame, for with 
the hot-bed the heat from the manure, together with the 
sun's rays, will often run the temperature in an hour so 
high as to destroy its whole contents, if airing at the 
proper time has been neglected. Many a merchant doing 
business in the city has gone home in the evening to his 
country residence to find that his hot-bed, that had been 
his pride in the morning, had become a scorched brown 
mass at night for want of attention to the safety-valve 
of " airing." In such cases, when no competent person 
is in charge, the safest way is to tilt the sashes a few 
inches, even before the necessity arises, rather than run the 
risk of the sun coming out strong and destroying the 
whole. In a southern exposure, in a sheltered place, there 
is rarely danger in admitting air in most days in March 
or April from 9 to 4 o'clock. But, of course, judgment 
must be used in extreme cases. The greater heat in the 
hot-bed necessitates watering freely whenever the surface 
of the soil appears dry, which, in dry weather, if the heat 
is strong, will usually be every other day. 



CHAPTER X. 

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 

I have a peculiar pleasure in beginning to describe our 
present modes of constructing green-houses, well knowing 
til at hundreds of my readers will turn with interest to 
this page, in the hope that they may be enlightened on a 
subject on which doubtless many of them have seriously 



54 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

blundered. I have no reason to complain of success in 
business, but I feci well assured that for the first ten 
years of my time many thousands of dollars were sacri- 
ficed in the blunders made in my endeavor to get on the 
right track. 

There was no fixed system ; all was confusion, hardly 
two of us building alike, and, in my humble opinion, most 
of us building wrong. 

The style of green-house to be built must be governed 
by the purpose for which it is wanted. If for the growing 
of a general assortment of green-house or bedding plants, 
four years' working of those on the ridge and furrow 
system, on the extensive scale in use by us, makes us con- 
fident m the belief that that system is all we have previ- 
ously claimed for it, as being the most economical of 
space, most econom,ical of heat, and most economical in 
cost of co7istruction. 

Figure 12 represents the end section and ground plan 
of the style of house referred to, which may be used 
for the purpose of growing flowers for winter — Roses, 
green-house, or bedding plants, or anything requiring 
protection in winter. The green-houses represented in 
this plan are 100 feet in length, and each 11 feet wide 
inside. The heating of the whole (that is, the three 
measuring from the outside walls 36x100 feet) is done by 
one of Hitching's Combination Boilers (C), heating about 
1200 feet of 4-inch pipe (D). The glass roof (E) is 
formed of portable sashes, each 6 feet by 3 feet ; each 
alternate sash is screwed down, the others being movable, 
80 that a full supply of air can be given when necessary. 

The movable sash is elevated by an iron bar 15 inches 
long, attached to the sash by a staple ; in this bar three 
holes are punched, at distances of 3 inches ; by means of 
these holes the bar can be hooked upon an iron pin placed 
in the ridge pole, and thus hold the sash more or less 
open, to graduate the admission of air. When the sash 



GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTTJKES. 



55 




Fig. 12.-GREEN-H0USE HEATED BY HOT WATER PIPES. 



56 PRACTICAL FLORICFLTUEE. 

is shut down, the bar is hooked on to a pin that secures it 
in place, so that the sash cannot be moved by wind. I 
am particular to describe this method of airing, as it is, as 
far as our experience has gone, the best method we have 
ever seen used. Tlie ridge-poles are cut out exactly as is 
shown at J, and the sash lays on the shoulder, braced by 
the ang^le shown in the cut. The interior arrano-ements 
are shown by the end section. G shows the bench, or 
table, as it is completed. The space beneath the bench, 
if bottom heat is required for propagating or other pur- 
poses, should be boarded up below the bottom of the 
pipes, the lower board being hinged, so that, in cold nights, 
addition^ heat can be given to the atmosphere of the 
house, if required. But for the general uses of growing 
plants, the benches must be left open below, so that the 
heat given out by the pipes will pass freely to all parts of 
the house. If one house is wanted at a higher tempera- 
ture than the others, it will be necessary to board up 
along the posts from the ground to the top of the posts, 
and by wholly or partially shutting the valves in the pipes 
of the other houses, throw a greater heat into the one in 
which the high temperature is wanted. The walks 
through the house (K) are 2 feet wide, which leaves 4-|- feet 
on each side for bench room. These widths we find to 
be the most convenient for the working of the plants ; 
if narrower, too much space would be lost ; if wider, the 
further side of the benches could not be reached easily. 

The width of walk, however, must be determined by 
what the green-houses are designed for : if for workmen 
merely, 2 feet, or even less room, will do for the walk ; 
but if visitors are to be accommodated, it should be at 
least 2^ feet in width. 

A brick shed (A) covers the boiler pit (F), and is 
attached to the north end of the pits, the back wall 
being about 12 feet high, the front 8 feet, width 16 feet ; 
besides breaking off the north wind from the green-houses, 



GREEN-nOUSE STRUCTURES. 



57 




Fig. 13.— GREEN-HOUSE HEATED BT FLUES. 



58 



PRACTICAL FLOEICULTURE. 



we find this shed indispensable as a potting and packing 
shed. It will be understood that these green-houses have 
their ends north and south ; consequently one side is ex- 
posed to the east in the morning, the other to the west 
in the afternoon, while at noonday the rays of the sun 
strike directly upon the apex of the roof There is nothing 
arbitrary in having the green-houses end north and south ; 
a point to the east or west would not make any material 
difference, but, if circumstances will admit, we prefer them 
to end direct north and south. 

At present prices, built in a plain, substantial manner, 
with the outer walls of brick or stone, and heated with 
hot water, they will cost about $10 per running foot, or 
$3,000 for the three connected ; if put up singly, the cost 
would be at least 10 per cent more. 

The smoke flues, as shown in figure 13, can be put up 
at much less cost — perhaps $6 per running foot, in most 
places ; but when the heating is done by smoke-flues, the 
houses should not be, on an average, longer than 50 feet, 
varying, of course, with the locality ; where the ther- 
mometer falls 10 or 15 degrees below zero, not more than 
40 feet should be risked; while where the thermometer 
marks its lowest point at the same figures above zero, the 
houses may be extended to 70 feet. 

It will be seen by this sketch that two fires only are used 
for the three green-houses ; the flues from each, passing 
under the benches on the outside houses, are carried along 
the end and returned through the middle house. 

This equalizes the temperature in all three, for, although 
the outside houses get only one run of flues each, these be- 
ing nearest to the furnace give out just about the same 
amount of heat to the outside houses as the two returning 
flues give out in the middle one, as these, being at a greater 
distance from the fire, contain much less heat. This style 
of ridge and furrow building of green-houses is especially 
adapted for florists; hundreds of establishments have 



GREEN-HOUSE STETJCTURES. 



59 




Fig. 14.-PLAN OF HOUSE HEATED BY BOTH ELITE A^D PIPES. 



60 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



been erected on this plan in all parts of the country, and 
I have been amply repaid by receiving scores of letters of 
acknowledgment from those who have adopted it, and 
whose attention was first called to the plan by some of 
the papers written by me on the subject four years ago. 

Another plan in use is shown by figure 14, combining 
the flue and boiler, fronl the same furnace. This is the 
most economical plan in which hot water can be used. 
As shown in the engraving, there are two houses joined 
together, each 11 feet wide by 70 feet in length. For 




Fig. 15.— END VIEW OF FIGURE 14. 

colder sections of the country than the vicinity of New 
York, from 50 to 60 feet in length would probably be suf- 
ficient, but much depends on exposure, and the manner in 
which the building is constructed. One of the houses is 
heated by the flue, F; the other by the pipes, P. The 
boiler, J, shown in the end view of the same house, 
figure 15, is what is termed a " saddle " boiler, which an- 
swers at the same time the double purpose of an arch for 
the fui'nace and a boiler. The fire in this furnace does 
nearly the same amount of heating as two such fires, if 
used in heating by flues only. Thus, by this combination 
of flue and pipes, the construction of the heating arrange- 
ments costs about 50 per cent less than if the house were 
heated entirely by hot water. The probable cost of two 



GKEEN-HOUSE STEUCTUKES. 



61 



houses of this kind, each 70x11 feet, so heated, and otherwise 
complete, wonld be about $1200. In erecting all houses on 
the ridge and furrow plan, the site should, whenever prac- 
ticable, be such as will admit of extension by future erec- 
tions, to meet the increase of business. A good plan in 
beginning is to erect three houses, as shown in fig. 13, 




Fig. 16. — END VIEW OF FORCING HOUSE. 

page 54, 50 feet in length, so situated, that as business in- 
creases, and with more means in hand, the south ends can 
be taken out, the walls extended 25 or 50 feet further, the 
flues thrown out, and the heating done by hot water. For, 
whenever it can be afforded, the heating by hot water 
will be found to be much the best ; not that there is any 
particular saving in fuel over heating by flues, for in this 
matter there is but little to choose, but it is more durable, 
entirely free from danger from fire, or the escaping of 



PRACTICAL FJ-OEICULTUEE. 



gases, so troublesome with flues ; besides, it is an immense 
saving of labor, more particularly if the green-houses are 
extensive. In our establishment, covering over an acre 
with glass, but nine boilers are used, involving the work 
of only nine fires. If we heated by flues, not less than 
forty fires would be necessary, and at least three times 
more labor would be required. 

Fig. 16 is the end view and fig. 17 the ground plan of a 
Hot-house, or Forcing House, erected by us last season, 
mainly for the purpose of forcing flowers in winter. This 
house has given us the highest satisfaction, and for the pur- 
pose of a conservatory for winter blooming plants, we be- 
lieve it will be found to be most suitable. So satisfied were 
we of the practicability of this style of house for this pur- 
pose, that we erected it of mammoth proportions, 300 feet 
in length by 20 wide inside. It will be understood by the 
sketch, that the roof is stationary, the whole slope front- 
ing south, 15 feet in length, being one unbroken sheet of 
glass. The back slope to the north, 8 feet in length, is 
also fixed, but in that there are movable sashes 3 feet 
square every 9 feet, for the purpose of ventilation, or about 
one-sixth of the whole roof facing north. The movable 
sashes are hinged at the top, and are lifted by an iron 
bar fixed to the lower edge, in which holes are punched 
every 4 inches, so that the ventilation may be graduated 
to suit the weather. This amount of space for ventilation 
on the roof would be entirely inadequate alone, and it is 
one of the most common errors in building fixed roof 
green-houses or graperies, to have insufficient means for 
the escape of the excessive heat generated by the sun's 
rays in May or June. 

But this difficulty is easily and cheaply overcome by 
admitting air from sliding shutters made in the front wall. 
The size and width apart of these must depend upon the 
dimensions of the green-house. In the house above re- 
ferred to, we have them made 18x24 inches, placed in the 



GEEEN-HOUSE STRUCTUEES. 



63 




pjo- 17. —GROUND PLAN OF FORCING HOUSE. 



64 PRACTICAL FLOEICTTLTUEE. 

front wall 9 feet apart. Tlie proper position of these 
sliding shutters is of importance. It has long been a 
common practice to ventilate by front sashes, both in 
graperies and plant houses which opened directly on the 
plants. The consequence is, that in cold days, while the 
sun is shining, the house gets heated up, but the lower 
sashes cannot be opened, for the outside air is often so 
cold that it would be likely to chill or freeze the plants. 
But by placing the sliding ventilators on the front or 
south wall, at such a height that they will be below the 
front bench, but above the flue or pipes, the air thus ad- 
mitted to cool down the house is modified in its passage 
across the pipes or flue, so that the temperature of the 
house is lowered without chilling the plants. 

The sliding ventilators run upon rollers, and by at- 
taching a continuous rod to each, 25 or 30 of them can be 
moved from one end by a slight 
pull, thus obviating the necessity 
of getting under the benches to 
open each one separately. The 
front or south wall of the building 
referred to is built of brick- work 8 
inches thick. But the back or 
north wall is built hollow, 10 Fi<r is —hollow brick 
inches thick; that is, of two wall. 

bricks placed flat, with an air space of 2 inches, " tied in " 
by headers of cast-iron, like that shown in figure 18, placed 
at intervals of 2 feet apart, both in the height and in the 
length of the wall. A 10-inch hollow wall built in this 
way costs about the same as a 12-inch solid wall, but is 
greatly better in all respects. The air space, of course, 
acting as a non-conductor, keeps the house much warmer 
than a solid wall would ; and besides, a wall like this is 
much more durable for such a purpose. The experience 
of most of us who have built solid 8-inch brick walls for 
green-houses is, that on the north or west side they stand 




GEEEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 



C5 



badly, owing to the freezing and thawing caused by the 
great difference between the temperature of the green-house 
and tliat of the open air in winter. The difficulty experi- 
enced in this way has forced us to the conclusion that it is 
better to construct the walls of posts and boards, lining 
with brick inside, rather than to use the ordinary solid 8- 
inch brick wall ; but the best wall for a north or western 
exposure, when the expense can be afforded, is unquestion- 
ably the 10-inch hollow wall. 

Fio-ure 19 will show the inside arrano-enient of the 
benches, each being exactly 4 feet in width, with a 2-f()ot 
space for walks. It will be observed that the back walk is 




Fig. 19. — INTEKIOH OF FORCING HOUSE. 

elevated, so that the plants on the benches can be conven- 
iently reached, to arrange plants, water, etc. If for private 
use, or for visitors, the walks should be widened at least 
6 inches. The water is supplied by tanks under the mid- 
dle bench, 8 feet wide by 4 deep, and half as long as 
the house. These are arranged in sections, and at con- 
venient distances are placed two of West's Force Pumps, 
Fig. 11, to which a length of 125 feet of l|-inch hose is 
attached. One man or two boys work the pump, while 
another hand regulates the water over the plants by the 
sprinkler, so that the plants contained in this building, 



66 PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

measuring about 7,000 square feet of glass, are copiously 
drenched with water in one hour. If watered in the usual 
way by watering-pots, the same number of hands would 
not do the work as well in six hours. 

Of all labor-saving apparatuses yet introduced into oar 
gardens, this force pump is the most valued. 

As a green-house of this description is built for the pur- 
pose of growing winter flowers, ample provision is made 
for heating ; eight 4-inch pipes run its entire length, which 
is about one square foot of heating surface to three square 
feet of glass, or, in other words, one foot of 4-inch pipe to 
three square feet of glass. This is the necessary quantity 
when a night temperatare of 60 degrees is required in sec- 
tions where the thermometer runs down to 10° or 15° be- 
low zero. When a temperature of 40° or 45° only is 
necessary at night, one foot of heating surface to four feet 
of glass is the rule. But, of course, much depends on ex- 
posure, style of green-house, etc., so that no infallible 
rule can be applied. 



CHAPTER XI. 



GREEN-HOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 



Every now and then the inquiry is made : " How can I 
best attach a green-house to my dwelling?" Nothing is 
more simple, as far as the mere shell of the green-house is 
concerned, but the difficulty is to heat it. Many may not 
know that a green-house, even without any artificial 
means of heating, can be made very useful in the early 
spring months in this latitude, and in those Southern 
States where the thermometer does not fall lower than 20° 
or 25°. It may be used all through the winter. 



GKEENHOUSES ATTACHED TO mVELLINGS. 67 

In the diagram of an end section of a simple house, 
figure 20, the sashes {B and C) are 3 feet wide by 6 
long ; the top one is so placed that it can be let down 
over the lower one by weights and pulleys, and thus secure 
ventilation. The front wall and ends are best built by 
using 4 X 6-inch locust or cedar posts. Upon the out- 
side of the posts rough planking is nailed ; against that a 




Fig. 20. — SECTION OF A CHEAP GREENHOUSE. 

layer of tarred j^aper ; and against the tarred paper the 
weather boarding is nailed, either overlapping or tongu^d 
and grooved, as may be desired. The outer walls of all 
green-houses built of wood are now thus made with us, 
and it is found to be far preferable to the old and objec- 
tionable mode of filling in between the boards with saw- 
dust or shavings. 

The tarred paper is a good non-conductor, and we find 
walls so constructed are equally as good a protection 
against frost as a nine-inch brick wall, which would cost 



68 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUKE. 

twice as much. A green-liouse of this kind, 25 feet long 
by 11 wide, should not cost more than $100 complete, 
if plainly built ; that is, without heating. Heating is a 
difficult matter in green-houses so attached, to dwellings, 
unless in cases where there is a surplus heat at night from 
furnaces or stoves in the rooms adjoining. In such cases, 
the windows or doors, if low enough, could be opened, 
and enough heat be supplied from the rooms of the dwell- 
ing ; or, better yet, if it were so arranged that a register 
from the fuinace opened into the floor of the green-house. 
But when this supj^ly of artificial heat can not be ob- 
tained, the green-house as it is will be sufiicient to protect 
plants against any frost that is likely to occur in this lati- 
tude after April 1st, particularly if light wooden shutters 
are put over the lower tier of sashes. I have recom- 
mended this style of green-house to many dealers and 
retail florists in the difierent States. Those who are 
simply dealers in plants experience great difficulty and 
loss in keeping what they purchase for sale in stores or 
dwelling-rooms ; for if not sold at once, they quickly get 
injured. But this cheap and simple style of green-house 
not only by its appearance advertises their business as 
dealers in flowers, but it enables them to buy from the 
wholesale florists at an earlier season. Besides this, they 
can purchase in March and April at less than half what 
the same plants would cost in May, and it gives them 
time to repot into larger pots. Placing them in the 
green-house Avhere they have sufficient space to grow, the 
plants that are bought for $12 per 100 in March, Avith but 
little trouble in potting, airing, and watering, will freely 
retail for 50 cents each in May. These green-houses are 
also economical and useful to the amateur who purchases 
for his flower-garden in spring. Bedding-plants, as they 
are called, can not be safely planted out in the Northern 
States until the middle of May, and if the amateur buys 
from the florist then, he generally pays quite double the 



GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLIISrGS. 69 

price that he could purchase the same plants for in March 
or April, for the florist always wants room in his green- 
houses, and can better aiford to sell a dozen Geraniums 
in March for $1.50 than for $3 in May. Besides, the 
plants if purchased in March, and shifted into larger pots, 
and allowed plenty of room to grow, would be far better 
than could be purchased at any price from the over- 
crowded tables of the florists in May. The care of such 
plants in the green-house is very simple. The board 
benches or tables ^and G should be covered with two 
inches of sand, upon which to stand the pots ; place them 
so far apart that the leaves will not touch; water ^Aor- 
oughly whenever the surface of the soil in the pot ap- 
pears dry, which will be every day in hot weather. 
Ventilate by letting down the sashes, more or less, as the 
day is warm or cold, whenever the thermometer indicates 
75"^ or 80°; in other words, keep the temperature in the 
day-time as near as may be to 60° or 65°, as marked by a 
thermometer placed in the green-house where the sun will 
not strike it. Burn half a pound of damp tobacco stems 
on the floor of the green-house twice a week, to destroy 
the aphis. One dealer in Maine informed me that from a 
green-house so constructed, 30 feet long by 11 feet wide, 
placed against the south side of a high board fence, he 
sold last spring, in^six weeks, sufficient bedding-plants 
that he had purchased, and vegetable plants that he had 
raised from seed, to aflTord him a profit of $200, or nearly 
double the cost of his green-house. 

These green-houses can also be used for all the purposes 
of a hot-bed, thus: Soil placed to the thickness of four 
inches on the benches will grow fine plants of all varieties 
of vegetables if the proper time in sowing the different 
kinds is attended to — presuming that the green-house has 
no artificial heat other than that produced by the sun's 
rays which pass through the glass. In this latitude, cab- 
bage, cauliflower, and lettuce had better be sown about 



70 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTURE. 

middle of March. By attention to ventilating and water- 
ing, fine plants may be liad in five or six weeks from time 
of sowing, which will bring them just into the proper 
season for planting in open ground. Tomatoes, pepper, and 
egg-plant, and the tenderer kinds of flower seeds, should 
not be sown much sooner than the end of April. True, 
they would not be as early as if sown a month sooner in a 
hot-bed, and replanted into the green-house bench in May. 
But if no hot-bed is at hand, the protection of the green- 
house over these tender plants in May will give satisfac- 
tory results if earliness is not particularly wanted. 

I have so many inquiries about the heating and general 
construction of cheap green-houses that I am compelled to 
give instructions which are known now to nearly every 
one in and around our large cities. Yet, simple though 
the matter may be to us who see so much of it, it is evi- 
dently perplexing enough, when they come to construct, 
for those who have nothing to copy from. Those of us 
who write on such subjects too often take for granted 
that those for whom we write know something about the 
matter, when for the most part they really know nothing. 

The cheapest kind of construction is the lean-to just 
described, that is, where there is anything to lean it 
aorainst, such as the arable of house or barn. But if the 
green-house has to be constructed entirely new, I think the 
span-roof is best — see end-section fig. 13, p. 57. The walls 
are four feet high, formed of locust or cedar jDOSts, and 
made with tarred paper between the boarding and weath- 
er-boarding as described on page 67. This makes really a 
better wall for green-house purposes than an 8-inch one of 
brick, as we find that the extremes of temperature of the 
green-bouse — inside at 50°, and perhaps 10° below zero out- 
side — very soon destroy an 8-inch solid brick wall, particu- 
larly if exposed to the north or west. A wall of wood con- 
structed as above will last for twenty years, and be as 
good a protection as one of 8-inch brick. So much for 



MODES OF HEATING. Yl 

the construction of the frame. The roof is formed by the 
ordinary sashes, six feet in length by three feet in width, 
which can be bought ready made, or easily be made by a 
carpenter or any one handy with tools. 

Such a house, if cheapness is an object, should be heated 
with a flue. It should not be more than 60 and not less 
than 30 feet in length ; if more, the flue would not heat 
it enough, and if less it would be likely to get too much 
heat. About 50 feet by 11 is we think the best size of a 
green-house to heat with a flue. The flue should run all 
around the house — that is, it should start along under one 
bench, cross the end, and return under the other bench to 
the end where it begins, making the length of flue in a 
green-house of 50 feet about 110 feet long. It should have 
a "rise" in this length from the furnace to the chimney of 
at least 18 inches, to secure a free draft. For the first 25 
feet of flue nearest the furnace it should be of brick, with 
an air-space inside of about 7 by 7 inches. From this 
point cement drain-pipe, 7 or 8 inches diameter, may be 
used. The drain-pipe is now almost exclusively employed 
here wherever flues are used; it is both cheaper and 
radiates more rapidly than brick. The cost of such a 
green-house, complete, in this section, is about $6 per run- 
ning foot — that is, one 50 feet long by 11 feet wide costs 
about $300 complete. 



CHAPTER XII. 

MODES OF HEATING. 

Although I have alluded to the difi*erent modes of heat- 
ing elsew^here, the matter is one of so much importance, 
that I will again refer to it more directly. 

Where but one building is erected, with not more than 
1,000 square feet of glass surface, or where the beginner is 
limited in means and must practice economy, a smoke-flue 



72 PEAcrricAL floriculture. 

may be used to a very good purpose. Any mason will be 
able to build a smoke flue, by having the following instruc- 
tions. Let the bars of the grate be from 20 to 30 inches in 
length, making a width of grate from 10 to 15 inches, accord- 
ing to the size of the house to be heated ; say the smallest 
size for a surface of glass of 300 feet, the latter for 600. 
Where the furnace pit can be drained, if there is danger 
of water standing in winter, it is always best to place the 
furnace so deep that the furnace bars will be say 3 feet 
from the top of the flue where it first starts along the 
house ; at all events, the bars should never be less than one 
foot below the bottom of the flue. After setting the grate 
bars in the usual way, by resting them on an iron plate let 
into the brick-work at front and back, the sides of the fur- 
nace should be built with fire brick and fire clay, (if at all 
procurable), to the height of 10 or 15 inches, according to 
size. From that point an arch is turned over to cover the 
furnace, the " neck " of the furnace rising at a sharp angle 
for about 2 feet, until it runs into the flue. The flue should 
be raised from the ground by means of bricks, either one 
upon edge or two laid flatwise. This costs perhaps one-third 
more in building, but it exposes a greater heating surface, 
besides kee23ing the flue always dry, and permitting it to 
" draw " better at all times. The cheapestand simplest form 
of flue is made as follows : After the bottom is formed, the 
flue is built up by placing two bricks on edge, the top being 
covered by a brick laid flat. This may be varied, how- 
ever, for larger houses, by placing 3 bricks on edge and 
covering by tiles. The larger the furnace, of course the 
greater the necessity for a larger flue. A flue had better 
never exceed 120 feet in length, and this length should be 
secured by running the flue along one side of the house, 
crossing the end, and returning along the other side to 
the place of beginning, where it connects with the chim- 
ney. If the flue can have a gradual rise of 1^ or 2 feet in 
its entire length, so much the better. Whenever it is made 



MODES OP HEATING. 73 

to return, a greater amount of heat will be got from the 
same quantity of coal, than if it merely ran straight along 
one side, and turned round the end to connect with the 
chimney. 

Too great caution cannot be used in keeping wood- 
work away from the flue and chimney, at the furnace 
end ; and for 15 feet of the hot end of the flue, wood 
should never be placed nearer than one foot. Do not 
listen to what your builders may say, as few of them have 
had experience in such matters, and whatever they may 
pretend, not one in a dozen knows any thing more 
about what is dangerous from fire than you do your- 
self. On one occasion I had in use two houses heated 
with flues each about 100 feet in length. The chimneys 
had been made of wood, and they had been safely used for 
three winters, but on the occasion of a severe storm in 
winter, when our fires were going at full blast, both of 
them took fire within an hour of each other, though fully 
100 feet from the furnace. Fortunately the chimneys had 
been attached to the outside of the house, and were 
knocked off" without material injury being done. On 
another occasion, a house containing upwards of 10,000 
plants took fire by a workman placing kindling wood on 
the flue near the furnace. The result was great injury to 
the green-house, and total destruction of its contents. I 
mention these cases, to show the necessity of the utmost 
caution. Every winter there are hundreds of fires origin- 
ating in green-houses by the woodwork taking fire from 
flues. 

In this particular, if in no other, the heating of green- 
houses by hot water has an immense advantage over flues, 
for with this there is danger neither from fire, smoke, nor 
the gases that often escape from badly built flues. Still, 
in some particulars I do not believe in the advantages 
claimed for hot water heating by its advocates. I have 
never yet seen a boiler able to heat a given surface of glass 



74 PRACTICAL FLORICITLTUKE. 

with less fuel than would be used by flues. Nor is the 
heat given out by iron pipes, filled with heated water, any 
less dry than that given out by a flue which has been heat- 
ed to the same temperature as the water. The advantage 
in favor of the water is, however, that its temperature is 
nearly the same at one end of a house as at the other, while 
with the flue the furnace end may be heated to a tempera- 
ture of 300°, but where it enters the chimney, it may not 
be more than 100°; hence at the furnace end we get a dry 
heat, simply for the reason that our heating medium (the 
bricks) is unavoidably heated to too high a temperature, 
and to counteract the dryness occasioned thereby, pans of 
water should be placed upon the flue while firing hard. 

The saddle boiler is the simplest form of boiler, and may 
be used in connection with a flue, as shown in figure 15, 
on page 55. 

The great point to be aimed at in the construction of 
a boiler, is to get the greatest amount of heating surface, 
directly exposed to and near to a given grate surface. 
Scores of boilers are in use, all claimed by their respect- 
ive makers to be nearest to this condition, yet many of 
them are comparatively worthless, as our experience has 
rather expensively taught us, as we have thrown out two 
of them as useless, at great trouble and expense. Without 
desiring to show a preference to any particular maker, we 
can only say that an investigation of the subject has led 
us to use, as the most effective, one of recent introduction, 
known as " Hitching's Corrugated," figure 20. We have 
now ten of them in use, which together heat 15,000 feet of 
4-inch pipe, and heat a glass surface of 35,000 square feet, 
to 60 degrees in the coldest weather. It will be seen by 
the engraving that the portion exposed to the fire is rib- 
bed or corrugated, so as to expose a larger surface than 
if plain. This part of the boiler differs but little from the 
ordinary saddle boiler, but, as the figure shows, the heat 
passes around and over the boiler to a smoke pipe in 



MODES OF HEATING. 



75 




A.— Elevation of Boiler. 







B.—Lmgiiiidinal Section of Boiler. 

Fis:. 21.— HTTCHINGS & CO.'S PATENT BOILER. 



76 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

front. This heat, after it leaves the direct action of the 
fire, when passing again to the front of the boiler, is called 
"secondary," and though its power is comparatively 
slight compared with the direct heat from the fuel to the 
inner surface, yet it otherwise indirectly benefits, by check- 
ing the rapid escape of heat out at the chimney, which 
would be the case to a great extent if this back draft was 
not used. We believe that by using this second heating 
surface, a saving of one-third in fuel is made. At present 
l^rices, a boiler and pipes to heat 1,000 square feet of glass 
by hot water will cost in this district about $500. Brick 
flues, to heat the same area, would cost about $100. 

Heating by tanks of hot water was much in use a few 
years ago, when the grape vine fever was at its height, 
and is still used by some for propagating purposes ; 
but our experience, as well as that of many others who 
have had them in extensive use, is that they are an un- 
profitable means of heating. Made in the usual way, of 
wood, we have never known them to be in use over two 
winters without seriously leaking. If made by lining 
with zinc, or by having them made of cast-iron, they then 
cost as much as the regular 4-inch pipe, and are not so 
durable, and for the heating for any i)urpose they have no 
advantage in any respect over them ; four years ago ' I 
threw out over 2,000 square feet of wooden tanking, that 
had leaked so as to become unserviceable in three years, 
and replaced it by 4-iiich pipe. Almost all who have used 
them have had the same experience. 



BASE-BURNINft WATER-HEATEE. 



77 



CHAPTER XIII. 



BASE-BURNING WATER-HEATER. 



For many years a great want has been felt for a better 
means of heating green-houses, or rather conservatories, 
attached to dwellings. The space to be heated is usually 



li-^ 



D4 




r^ -A 


r~ 


1 


^^^ 


^N 







Fia:. 23. —BASE -BURNER. 



Fig. 23. — SECTION. 



so small, that the ordinary hot-water boilers in use for 
largo operations have been found by amateurs too compli- 
cated, and to require too much attention. Then when the 
common smoke-flue was tried corresponding difficulties 



78 



PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



arose, it requiring nearly the same attention as the more 
expensive boiler. Occasionally these conservatories are 
heated by registers from the furnace heater, just as the 
ordinary rooms of the dwelling ; but I have rarely seen 
any so heated wherein the j^lants looked well, it being 
difficult to get the register so placed as to diffuse the heat 




Fig. 24. — SECTION OF HOUSE AND CONSERVATORr. 

evenly. A new base-burning water-heater has been 
invented by Hitchings & Co., tlie well known green- 
house-heating firm. There is nothing new in the princi- 
ple, nothing to patent, I believe. It is simply making the 
ordinary base-burning stove heat water so that it will 
circulate in iron pipes and warm a small green-house or 



BASE-BURNING AVATER-HEATER. 79 

conservatory attached to a dwelling or otherwise, exactly 
as our larger boilers do, which are not usually made on 
the base-burning principle. The patterns they have thus 
far made (shown in figure 22 and in section in figure 23) are 
42 inches high and 21 inches at base, and are powerful 
enough to heat a green-house 10 feet wide by 20 feet long, 
or about 400 square feet of glass surface, taking into 
account the front and ends. The complete cost of heating, 
including boiler, pipes, and fitting up, will range from 
$150 to $200. Tlie care necessary in the management of 
this base-burning^ water-heater is exactlv the same as that 
required for an ordinary bnse-burning stove, and it may 
be safely left twelve hours without attention, keeping a 
temperature in the house of from 50° to 60° at night, 
which is about what is required for a general collection of 
plants. Figure 24 shows the boi'er placed alongside the 
kitchen range, being in a basement and one story lower 
than the conservatory. It can either be used in this 
way, or placed in the conservatory itself if so desired. 
It must be borne in mind though, in constructing a con- 
servatory, that it must be placed where a chimney cf\n be 
used, as of course an outlet must be had for smoke ex- 
actly as in any ordinary room where a stove of any kind 
is used. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 

The propagation of plants of all kinds by seeds is a 
matter in which instructions can be given only to a certain 
extent. Long experience only can give the necessary 
knowledge for the full understanding of the proper tern- 



80 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

perature and humidity essential for the successful ger- 
mination of the difterent varieties. It may be laid down 
as a safe rule, however, that for the hardier varieties, a 
low or medium temperature is required, say from 45° to 
60°, and for the tender species, a temperature from 75° to 
90°. 

If Pansy seed is sown in July or August, where the 
, temperature in the sh:ide averages 80°, no matter how 
moist the soil is kept, if germination takes place at all it 
will be of so feeble a kind that the seedlings will not con- 
tinue a healthy existence ; but if the same seed were 
sown in September or October, with an average tempera- 
ture of say 60° in the shade, a quick and liealthy germina- 
tion would be the result. The same rule applies to 
Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Auriculas, Primulas, and all other 
plants of this half-hardy nature. English, Scotch, and 
Irish gardeners, before they have had time for experience 
in this country, are apt to fall into the common error of 
sowing all these seeds too soon. Though it is proper to 
sow these seeds in July and August in England, with us, 
in this section, it must be delayed to September or 
October, and in warm latitudes still later, or failure is 
almost certain to follow. On the other hand, if we at- 
tempt to germinate Portulacas, Balsams, Amaranths, 
Zinnias, or other plants of tropical origin, in the medium 
temperature of 50°, they will either remain dormant until 
a higher temperature occurs, or perish. Ignorance of, or 
inattention to, these conditions, is far oftener the cause of 
failure than want of vitality in seeds. 

Whether seeds are sown in the open border, in the 
window garden of the parlor, in the hot-bed, or green- 
house, the same conditions should be observ^ed, as far as 
practicable. In the open border there is not always a 
choice of soil, but if soil is to be prepared, let it be of a 
light nature ; leaf-mould from the woods, and well- 
pulverized muck from the swamps, are excellent to sift on 



i 



PROPAGATING PLANTS FROM SEED. 8l 

as a covering; or, where it is obtainable, the mould 
Ibrmed by decayed refuse hops is of great value as a 
covering for seeds. We have employed this exclusively 
as a covering for seeds of all kinds for many years, with 
results which have been vastly superior to those we had 
when we did not use it. 

It must be borne in mind, that at first seeds do not 
so much need a fertile soil as they do one having the 
necessary mechanical condition ; this is found exactly in 
the light, moisture-retaining nature of hop-mould. We 
can give no better rule than the old one of covering seeds 
to about their own depth with mould, although something 
depends on the weight of the material with which they 
are covered. One-fourth of an inch in depth of hop- 
mould or leaf-mould would be no more than equivalent to 
half that depth of ordinary loam ; hence the advantage in 
using it, as it gives the seed a moist, springy covering, 
through which the tiny germ can freely push. 

We know it is a practice very common with amateurs, 
and many gardeners, when starting seeds in hot-bed or 
green-house, to use flower-pots in this operation; they 
are generally two-thirds filled with potslierds, overlaying 
which is an inch or two of soil, and on this the seed is 
sown. Any continuation of dry weather necessitates 
almost daily watering of the flower-pots ; this bakes or 
hardens the surface, while a day's inattention to them 
dries the soil, while it is in this condition, so as to injure 
the vitality of the seeds; hence very unsatisfactory results 
too often follow this practice. 

For many years we have entirely discarded the use of 
earthen flower-pots or pans for the purpose of sowing 
seeds, and use shallow boxes instead. These we prepare 
by cutting the common-sized soap-box in three pieces, 
each one of a depth of about two inches. These boxes 
are filled with the prepared soil to the depth of Tl^ inch, 
which is gently and evenly pressed, so as to give an en- 



82 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 

tireiy level surface ; the seeds are then sown, and a light 
covering, from '1^^ to '|^ part of an inch thick, according 
to size or strength of seed, is sifted over thera, through a 
sieve having a mesh only 'l^, part of an inch in diameter. 
The covering is gently pressed, to prevent the air pene- 
trating the loose soil and drying up the seeds; watering, 
which it is well to avoid as much as possible, is thus ren- 
dered less necessary. Be careful, however, not to let 
them suffer for moisture, as in tlie weak condition of seed- 
lings most plants are quickly injured by neglect of this 
kind, and, even with all possible care, we experience 
serious losses. Many varieties will " damp off,'' as we 
term it, just as the first rough leaves are being formed; 
this, liowever, is not the result of excessive moisture, as 
it occurs just as quickly in a dry temperature as a moist 
one. It is evidently caused by the same insidious spider- 
web-like substance that is known among gardeners as the 
"fungus of the cutting bench," and is evidently one of 
the tninute fungi of which we have so many representa- 
tives. The best preventive of this disease, as it is some- 
times called, is, just as soon as the seedling plants can be 
handled, to take them from the seed-boxes, and prick 
them out in boxes of similar mould, from ^[2 to 2 inches 
apart, according to the variety. This is a much better 
method than potting them off in flower-pots, as it not 
only saves time and room, but they always do better. In 
the flower-pots they are liable to be dried up, and the 
tender roots of the seedling plant quickly destroyed. 

We use these shallow boxes largely for pricking off 
cuttings from our propagating benches, instead of potting 
them off, particularly such plants as are wanted for stock 
to be planted out in the open ground, as, after being 
rooted in the cutting-bench, and planted out in these 
shallow boxes, they can there remain, occupying less 
space, and in every resj^^t growing as well as if in pots. 
Carnations and Roses we work largely in this way. 



VARIETIES FKOM SEED. 83 

CHAPTER XV. . -- 

WHAT VARIETIES COME TRUE- FROM SEED ? 

An intelligent correspondent asks tbe question given 
above. He queries still farther, a.nd says : " An apple-seed 
produces an ap[)le-tree, but a Baldwin apple-seed will not 
produce a Baldwin apple-tree. Wheat of any variety 
produces the same ; seed of a scarlet variety of Verbena 
will not always produce its like. AVhy this anomaly ? " 
The " why " of the matter can not be told, but a few 
general rules may be useful. Seeds of plants in the wild 
state, in their native habitats, almost invariably produce a 
progeny nearly identical with the jiarent ; and many 
species, even after they have been subjected to long years 
of cultivation, never appear to change seemingly in the 
slightest degree. Other species under cultivation quickly 
develop varieties entirely different from the original, and 
become what is technically termed " broken." Thus the 
original species of our well-known Verbena is indigenous 
to South America, having a comparatively small scarlet 
flower. From this, and probably some other species 
liybridized with it, we have the gorgeous and varied col- 
oring of the variety of to-dny. But it took many years 
to produce these, for we can well remember in our early 
gardening days there was no white, and the furor that 
took place in tlic floricultui'al world Avhen Verbena 
teucrioides^ the first white, appeared. It was far from 
being an attractive plant, but the color was novel, and 
single plants were sold by the florists of that time at a, 
price that would now buy a hundred. The Verbena, then, 
is one genus whose sj^ecies have given us innumerable 
varieties. The Chrysanthemum, Dahlia, Fuchsia, Ger- 
aniun. Pansy, Petunia, the Rose, and many others, are 
also familiar examples where the original species has 



84 PRACTICAL PLOKICULTUBE* 

" broken " from what may be termed its primary condi- 
tion into everchanging variety. Thus changed, it is pro- 
bable that their seeds will never produce two individual 
plants exactly alike,, any more than two identical human 
faces or forms are produced. It is probable that all species 
of animals and vegetables, under long years of domesti- 
cation and cultivation, would ultimately '"break" from 
the original type, tliough we know that in some species 
this tendency sooner develops than in others. It is 
not to be wondered at that amateur horticulturists, like 
my friend, are puzzled at what looks like inconsistency in 
nature — why she refuses to produce always again his 
Baldwin apple, or his Rareripe peach, his StrijDed Petunin, 
or his Double Carnation, yet gives "him back seemingly 
identical with the parent his corn or his wheat, his tomato 
or his cabbage, or in flowers his Mignonette or Alyssum. 
I say seemingly, for it may bo doubted if they are 
identical, only that the variation is so slightly marked 
that it escapes notice. Many whose experience in such 
matters should have taught them better, are always con- 
founding plants raised from cuttings or slips with those 
raised from seeds, and can not see why the plant raised 
from the slip or root of a White Dahlia, or the tree raised 
from the graft of a Baldwin apple, should be always iden- 
tical with the plant or tree from which they are taken, 
while the seeds taken from either would not produce the 
same. Any cutting from a root or a branch, whether 
rooted itself or engrafted on another stock (except in rare 
cases of sports), Avill be identical with that of the original 
form from which it was taken ; in fact, it is only a 
separated part of the same plard^ while the plant raised 
from seed is a distinct individual. 

Very few not engaged in the cultivation of flowers as a 
business, know that many of the most beautiful ones used 
to decorate flower-beds in summer, and the hot-house or 
parlor in winter, can be raised from seed. The price of 



VARIETIES FROM SEED. 85 

seeds, as compared with plants, is very low; a package 
of seed costing twenty-five cents will usually raise as 
many plants as could be bought from the florists for 
$25. It is true that care and labor are necessary 
in starting them, but the pleasure derived from the opera- 
tion alone, well repays that, independently of economic 
considerations. April is the best month for sowing most 
of the seeds of tropical plants, and it is best done, where 
there is tlie convenience, in a hot-bed. The hot-bed is 
made in the usual manner. The soil used should be, 
if possible, of a light, sandy nature, mixed with at least 
one-third of leaf-mould from the woods; if the ]eaf=mould 
is not procurable, pulverized muck, or stable manure rotted 
to the condition of mould, will do nearly as well. This is 
spread over the manure of the depth of about six inches. 
The sashes of the hot-bed should fit close, and there should 
be some material ready for covering the sash at night ; 
either straw-mats or shutters. "We, ourselves, use shut- 
ters made out of ^l^-inch stufi*, and exactly the size of the 
sash. All these preparations being made, insert a ther- 
mometer in the soil covering the hot-bed, and when it 
indicates a declining temperature of 75°, the seeds may 
be sown. Most of the flower-seeds may be sown in a hot- 
bed just as we sow egg-plants or tomatoes, which is best 
done for private use by sowing in rows from a quarter of 
an inch to an inch in depth, according to the size of the 
seed, the distance between the rows being two or three 
inches. Let me here repeat a caution that I have 
often given in connection with seed-sowing : Be sure that 
the soil used for covering the seed is light; nothing is 
better than leaf-mould, but if it can not be got, use the 
other substitutes before named. One half of the loss in 
seeds is in consequence of their being covered with a 
heavy, clayey soil. The vital force of difl*erent plants in 
this respect is widely different. Thus, while the seeds of 
tomato will germinate in almost any soil, the egg-plant — 



86 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

a vegetable of the same class — requires the utmost care. 
As soon as the seeds have grown so as to attain the first 
true leaves — that is, the first leaves that show after the 
seed-leaves — they must be replanted carefully in soft, 
light soil, at from one to three inches apart, according to 
tlie kind. This will not only prevent them from damping 
off, as many of them are very apt to do, but they will be 
much stronger and suifer less when replanted to the open 
ground. We prefer to replant the seedlings in the shallow 
boxes already described. Tiiey are more portable thus than 
if planted again in the soil of the hot-bed, though, of 
course, after planting in the boxes these are put again 
in the hot-bed. After the seedlings have been planted 
in these boxes lightly water them and shade for two 
or three days. As the season advances, attend to venti- 
lation, watering, and covering up at night. 

To such as have not the convenience of a hot-bed, the 
flower-seeds may be sown in the shallow boxes above 
mentioned, and placed in the window of a south or east 
room, where the thermometer does not average less than 
70°. Success would be more complete, however, if panes 
of glass were placed over the seeds, resting on the edge 
of the box an inch or so from the soil. This would pre- 
vent evaporation, and render watering, which has the ef- 
fect of caking the surface of the soil and preventing ger- 
mination, less necessary. 

We will name the varieties of flowers most suitable for 
amateurs to sow : 

€anna Indica^ or Indian Shot, grown mainly for the 
beauty of its foliage. Sown in hot-bed in April, and 
planted out in the open ground in June, will, by August, 
attain a height of six or eight feet. In addition to 
the rich, tropical-looking foliage, the flowers of some sorts 
are handsome — colors yellow, scarlet, orange, etc. 

Antirrhinunit or Snap-Dragon. — A l)eautiful summer 



VARIETIES rRO:M SEED. 87* 

flowerin^^ plant, presenting a great diversity of coloring, 
is easily raised from seed in the hot-bed. The Antirrhin- 
nms may be planted out in this latitude in May, and 
flower from middle of June throughout the summer. 

f Obaea Scaodens. — A climbing plant, which will attain, 
from seed, a growth of twenty or thirty feet in one 
season. The flowers are bell-shaped; purple ; 3 inches in 
length by l'|^-inch in breadth. The seeds are thin and 
flat, and should be placed on edge when sown. 

ColeilS. — Tliis famous ornamental-leaved plant is easily 
raised from seed, and breaks into endless varieties. It is 
exceedingly tender, however, and had better not be sown 
before May, nor planted out before June. 

Zonal (ireraillllins are, perhaps, the most valuable of all 
plants for summei-blooming in our climate. They arc 
easily raised from seed, and will well reward the amateur 
by the endless variety produced. A few years ago the 
only colors of these were scarlet and pink. Now we 
have them of every shade, from white to crimson, with 
endless tints of scarlet and rose. The Zonal Geraniums 
may be lifted and potted in the fall, and if well pruned in 
when lifted will bloom finely in winter. 

Lantana is another plant easily raised from seed; the 
flower resembles somewhat the Verbena, but has, besides 
manv of the colors found in the Verbena, orans^e and 
yellow, which are not found in that flower. 

Lobelias. — Dwarf plants, well suited for hanging- 
baskets, or for ribbon-lining. The flowers range from 
white to blue. The blue of the Lobelia is often of the 
richest azure, unsurpassed by that of any other plant. 

Pansy, or Heart's-ease. — The usual mode with the flor- 
ists is to sow the seeds of Pansy in the fall, so that the 
plants may be large enough to be in bloom when he sells 
in May. In this condition it will flower, perhaps only to 
the middle of June, for by thus being prematurely forced 



88 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

into flower it becomes exhausted and stops blooming, and 
often dies outright; but when sown in February or 
March, in green-house or hot-bed, the growth is uncheck- 
ed, and it will grow and flower from June to November. 

Petunias, being of rapid growth, will flower the first 
season, even if sown in the open ground, but usually not 
before July or August. If sown in the hot-bed in April, 
they will bloom in June and make larger and finer plants. 

DianthuSi — The Pinks are numerous and varied, many 
of them having a rich, clove fragrance. They present an 
endless variety in color and style of flower. 

Salvia Splendens, or Scarlet Sage. — Seeds of this sown 
in April will flower by July or August, and continue 
throughout the season. This, perhaps, is the most gorgeous 
plant of our gardens ; single plants often attain a 
height of six feet, and nearly as much in diameter, having 
a hundred scarlet, plume-like flower-spikes. The color is 
so intense when seen against a green background, that it 
is oft€n visible at the distance of half a mile. 

Verbeuas. — The most popular plant of the day is easily 
raised from seed, and no other plant that we know of will 
so well reward the trouble. The number of varieties now 
attained is something wonderful, even to us in the trade. 
Every year develops some new strain. Every color seem- 
ingly is obtained but yellow or orange ; these we never 
expect to have, as there seems to be a natural law of the 
floral kingdom that blue, yellow, and scarlet are never 
found in varieties of the same species. Thus we have in 
Dahlias and Roses yellow and scarlet colors but no blue, 
just as we have in Verbenas blue and scarlet 'but no 
yellow. My readers will do well to remember this, and 
be saved, as they occasionally are, from investing in 
"blue" Roses or Dahlias, and "yellow" Verbenas, and 
know that the seller must either be ignorant of his trade 
or dislionest. 



PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 89 

Double Zinnias.— These, like Petunias or Balsams, can 
be raised to flower by August if sown in the open 
ground, but if sown under glass in April will flower in 
June and throughout the entire season, making larger 
and finer plants. There are few plants that have im- 
proved so much as the Zinnia, and we have now dazzling, 
scarlets, yellow, orange, lilac, rose, white, and crimson- 
rivaling the Dahlia in symmetry of form. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 

Of all the operations of the florist, the one above all 
others in importance is the propagation of plants by cut- 
tings. It is the fount from which the supply must come, 
and becomes inexhaustible in the hands of a careful 
operator. I say a careful operator, rather than a skillful 
one, for, in my estimation, a great amount of knowledge 
is not so necessary to success as that a never-flagging, 
careful application of that knowledge should be made. 
A careful man, who has had the run of a propagating 
establishment for one year, and who has kept his eyes and 
ears open, will have acquired a theoretical and practical 
knowledge of the business suflficient to enable him to 
operate with success, provided he is of fair intelligence 
and studious habits. On the other hand, we find hundreds 
who have spent the best part of their lives in the trade, 
whose careless character renders useless the knowledge 
possessed, when this branch of horticulture is placed in 
their charge. 

I have long held the opinion that the necessary knowl- 
edge to successfully propagate plants by cuttings is very 



90 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

simple, and may easily be imparted by writing, even to 
one having no acquaintance whatever with the operation. 
I will first state the system practised by commercial florists, 
following with that suited for amateurs or private gar- 
deners. 

When the operations are such as require a house sez 
apart exclusively for propagating, the best style, in our 
opinion, is that shown by the diagram on page 50. 

We have used this style for the past three years, and, 
thus far, cannot see how it can be further improved upon ; 
it works perfectly, and if the simple conditions which we 
lay down for our guidance are strictly followed, failure is 
an impossibility. It will bo seen by the diagram that 
the heating is done by hot water pipes, two of winch 
(4 inches in diameter) run under each bench ; but it must 
not be supposed that it is indispensable that the heating 
of a propagating house should be done with hot water, to 
insure success. The common smoke-flue, run under the 
bench in the same position as shown for the pipes, will 
give bottom heat, if carefully regulated, just as well as 
the hot water pipes ; only in all cases where the first cost 
is not an object, we advise heating by hot water in pref- 
erence to flues. The bottom of the bench is best formed 
of slate or thin flagging-stone, as they are better con- 
ductors of heat than wood. When it is not convenient 
to obtain these, common rough boarding will answer. 
The scale applied to the diagram will give the measure- 
ments. 

We are in the habit of placing 3 or 4 inches of well- 
rotted refuse hops, tan bark, or some such material, well 
beaten down, over the boarding or flagging ; over this 
we place about 2 inches of sand. Our reason for using 
the first-named materials, passing the heat through them 
before it reaches the sand in which the cuttings are placed 
is, that it becomes modified and approaches to the moist 
and genial heat of the hot-bed. This practice is by no 



PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 91 

means indispensable to adopt, as sand alone, placed on the 
boards or flagging, to the depth of 3 inches, will answer 
the purpose very well ; but when the materials can be 
procured conveniently, wo believe it to be preferable. 
Some gardeners give preference to particular colors or 
textures of sand, but I think that these have little or 
nothing to do with the rooting of cuttings. In our ex- 
periments, we have tried sands of all colors and of nearly 
all textures, together with charcoal-dust, brick-dust, cocoa- 
nut fibre, rotted refuse hops, and many other materials ; 
cuttings root in all in nearly the same time and with the 
same success, satisfying us, beyond all doubt, that the 
material in which the cutting is placed acts merely as a 
medium to hold the moisture. We use sand because it is 
a clean and convenient material to work with, and is 
generally easily attainable. In my earlier experience, I 
was a victim to the popular notion that it was necessary 
to use silver sand in the propagation of particular plants, 
and was for years at much trouble and expense to obtain 
it. But this even did not save us ; we were in those 
days working at hap-hazard, failing quite as often as suc- 
ceeding, until further experience taught us what were the 
causes of failure and the conditions of success. 

With exceptions so few, and those of so little import- 
ance that it is hardly worth while to allude to them, cut- 
tings of all kinds root freely from slips taken from the 
young wood — ^that is, the succulent or un ripened growth 
that a plant has made. The proper condition of the slip 
at the time that it is inserted in the sand of the cutting- 
bench is of great importance, — a condition which it is 
astonishing to believe is so little understood among gar- 
deners. Somehow the idea has become current that every 
cutting must be made by cutting just below a joint or 
just at one. The practice of this system leads undoubt- 
edly to many cases of failure ; not that the mere cutting at 
or below a joint either assists or hindei's the forma* 



92 



PRACTICAL FLORICtTLTtrRE. 



tion of roots, but from the fact that when a slip is 
cut at a jomt the shoot has often become too hard at 
that point, while half an inch higher up, or above the 
joint, the proper condition would be found. The safest 
rule for the novice to adopt in propagating all kinds of 




Fig. 25.— PROPER AND IMPROPER CONDITIONS OF CUTTING. 

soft-wooded plants is to bend the cutting on the shoot ; 
if it breaks or snaps, as in the upper part of figure 21, it 
is in the right condition, but if it can be bent without 
snapping, as shown in the lower part of the same figure, 
it is then too hard. We know it will root even in this 
hard condition, but it will root more slowly, and the roots 
emitted will be hard and slender, and, as a consequence, 
will not be likely to produce a plant of the same vigor as 



PROPAGATION OP PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 93 

that made from one in the proper state. In propagating 
■woody plants, such as Roses, Azaleas, Daphnes, etc., this 
test of breaking or snapping does not apply, althoug.h all 
these will root, if taken in the same way ; yet we find it 
enfeebles their growth more than if the cutting is allowed 
to get harder. What this degree of hardness is, it is 
difficult to describe ; in Roses it assumes the proper de- 
gree of hardness Avhen the shoot develops tlie flower-bud. 
But, although we do not take Rose cuttings in the same 
succulent condition as we would a Fuchsia or a Verbena, 

it must not be imagined 
that it is necessary to 
make the cutting at a 
joint. The doing away 
with this custom in 
propagating Roses en- 
ables us to increase the 
product of a plant at 
least twice as much as 
if we practised ^ under 
this dogma, for tiie cut- 
ting will root just as 
well, and become quite 
as good a plant, if made 
with a single eye, (figure 

Fig. 26,— ROSE WITH SINGLE EYE. o/>\^^4^^4. 4. ••* 

^ 2lisi) as II cut at a joint 

having two or three eyes, (figure 2^). Although we have 
said that cuttings can be as easily rooted without being cut 
at a joint as otherwise, yet there are, in some plants, other 
considerations that necessitate that they should never be 
cut except at a joint ; for example, a Dahlia cutting will 
root quite as freely, make as fine a flowering plant 
in fall, and the tuberous root increase to its full size ; 
but it will not be able to start again in spring, because 
the Dahlia pushes only from the crown of the root, and if 
the crown has not been formed from a cutting cut close 




94 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



below a joint, as in figure 24, it is worthless, as the tubers 
and crown formed without an eye possess no latent or 
dormant buds; hence tlie importance of always making 
Daldia cuttings by cutting innnediately be'.ow ;m eye, if 
the roots are 'wanted for future nse. 

In cases where it is desired to make the most of new 
plants, we sometimes \ 
split the cuttings, as 
shown in figure 25. 
This method, however, 
is not generally desir- 
able, and we question 
if, except in cases of 
Calceolarias, and a few 
other plants of like 
character, it is ever 
worthy of ])ractice. 

If a plant is perpet- 
uated by cuttings with 
difiiculty, we usually 
find it is freely increas- 
ed in some other way ; 
thus the Cyclamen, 
Myrsiphyllum, some 
varieties of Cleroden- 
dron, etc., are slow to 




Fig. 27. — ROSE WITH SEVERAL EYES. 



increase by division or cuttings, but are abundantly multi- 
plied by seeds. Again, the Bouvardias, x4nemone Jnponi- 
ca, Pyrus Japonica, Calycanthus, etc., are slowly increased 
by cuttings or shoots, while hy cuttings of the roots they 
are propagated with the greatest ease and rapidity. 

The roots of such plants are thickly studded with latent, 
or, as they are termed, adventitious buds. These are cut 
into pieces of half an inch or so in length, as in figure 26, 
strewn thickly on the propagating bench, and covered 
over with an eighth of an inch of sand, mixed with some 



PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 



95 



light material, such as finely sifted rotten refuse hops or 
leaf mould. These are treated exactly in the way of cut- 
tings of tlie slioots, except that there is no necessity ever 
to shade root cuttings ; water should be sparingly given 
until they have freely started through their covering. 
One of the most important plants to propagate by root 
cuttings is the Bouvar- 
dia, and it requires to 
be placed in a high 
temperature. It is bet- 
ter not to put the roots 
in to start before the 
season is sufficiently 
advanced to keep the 
temperatui'e steadily 
high, say about the 
loth of March, or 1st of 
April. The Bouvardia 
is also increased by 
cuttmgs of the young 
shoots, but it requires 
more care, the plants 
so made are not so fine, 
and the ease and cer- 
tainty with which they Fig. 28.-dahlia cutting. 
make good plants by cutting up the roots render any 
other mode useless. 

I have said that if the simple conditions that we lay 
down for our guidance in the propagation of plants are 
strictly followed, failure is an impossibility. These con- 
ditions, together with the state of the cutting, are tempera- 
ture and moisture. It is very easy to give a rule for these, 
yet it requires unremitting attention to keep to that rule 
through all the deviations of the seasons, and it is hardly 
possible to follow it, whenever the outside temperature 
exceeds the limit given. Hence we find that the propa- 




96 



PIIACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



gation of most plants in this section of the country is at- 
tended with great difficulty, and with but little success in 
the months of June, July and August, and for this reason 
some of the best European propagators fail, when attempt- 

ing the operation here in 
July, with the thermom- 
eter in the' shade at 
90°, while in London 
success may attend these 
elTorts at the same date ; 
but then the thermome- 
ter there only marks 
70°. This twenty de- 
grees just makes tlie 
difference. I have dwelt 
thus long on the subject 
of temperature, to fix in 
the mind of the reader 
what I believe to be of 
great importance, and to 
prepare liim to under- 
stand, if failure occurs, 
where to place the cause, 
for without much doubt 
every case of failure is 
traceable either to the 
unsuitable condition of 
the cutting, irregular- 
ity of moisture, or tem- 
perature. 

Tile most proper condition of temperature, to root cut- 
tings of the great majority of green-house and bedding 
plants, is 65 degrees of bottom heat, indicated by a ther- 
mometer plunged in the sand of the bench, and an atmos- 
pheric temperature of 15 degrees less. A range of 10 de- 
grees may be allowed, that is, 5° lower, or 5° higher, but 




Fig. 29.— SPLIT CUTTING. 



i 



PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. \U 

the nearer the heat of the sand can be kept to 65°, and 
that of the rest of the house to 50°, the more perfect the 
success will be. 

From the time the cuttings are inserted in the sand un- 
til they are rooted, they should never be allowed to get 
dry ; in fact, our practice is to keep the sand soaked with 

water, the cutting bench 
being watered copiously 
every morning, and often, 
when the atmosphere is 
dry, again in the evening. 
Kept thus saturated, there 
is less chance of the cutting 
getting wilted, either by 
heat from the sun's rays, 
or from fire heat ; for be it 
remembered that if a cut- 
ting once gets wilted, its 
juices are expended, and 
it becomes in the condition 
of a hard cutting, in the 
condition in Avhich, when 
bent, it will not snap nor 
breakjwhich we have shown 
to be the proper state at 
Fi^. 30.— ROOT CUTTING. figurc 21. To avoid this 

wilting or flagging of the cutting, every means that will 
suggest itself to the propagator is to be used. Our prac- 
tice is to shade and give air in the propagating house just 
as soon in the forenoon as the action of the sun's rays on the 
glass raises the temperature of the house to 65° or 70°. 
This practice of giving air in a propagating house is, I 
am aware, not in very common use; many contending 
that the house should at all times be kept close. We 
have tried both methods long enough and extensively 
enough to satisfy us beyond all question, that ventilating 




98 PBACnCAL FLORICULTURE. 

and propagating at a low temperature is capable of 
producing a larger quantity of stock during the season than 
at a high temperature and in a close atmosphere. There 
need be no failures, and it has the important advantage 
of producing a healthy stock, which the close or high 
temperature system would fail to do in the case of many 
plants. We have often heard propagators vauntingly tell 
of taking out two crops of cuttings in 10 days. We are 
well aware that this may be done, but we are also aware 
that it is often done in damp and cloudy weather at the 
risk of the whole crop, and it must be done at a high 
temperature, which, at all times, causes the plants to draw 
up slender, and thus impairs their vigor. 

I am of the opinion that permitting a moderate circula- 
tion of air in the propagating house tends to prevent the 
germination of that peculiar spider-web-like substance, 
which, for want of a better term, is known among garden- 
ers as the " fungus of the cutting bench." Every one 
who has had any experience in propagating knows the 
baneful effects of this ; how that, in one night, it will often 
sweep off thousands of cuttings that a few hours before 
were in healthful vigor. But this insidious enemy of the 
propagator requires, like vegetation of higher grades, con- 
ditions suitable to its development, which evidently are 
a calm atmosphere and a temperature above 55 or 60 de- 
grees. Hence, to avoid this pest, we make every effort by 
shading, airing, and regulation of fire heat, to keep the at- 
mosphere of the house so that it shall not exceed 60^^. 
This, of course, is not practicable when the outside tem- 
perature in the shade is above 60°, but the tempera- 
ture can be reduced considerably by dashing water on 
the pathways and other parts of the house. It is rarely, 
however, that the outside temperature ever exceeds 60 
degrees for any length of time in this district before the 
middle of May, and all propagating should be finished 
previous to that time, unless of tropical plants, or plants 



PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 99 

that will stand and require a hot-house temperature it 
their growth, such as Poinsettias, Bouvardias, Coleus, Cler* 
odendrons, etc. These proijagate more freely in a tem- 
perature 20 degrees higher than that laid down for general 
guidauce. 

The shadhig of the glass, to prevent the temperature 
from rising in the house, is done in various ways, some 
using canvas, or bast-matting, or painting the glass with 
lime or whitewash. We find the cheapest and most con- 
venient shading to be that formed by screens made of 
common lath nailed an inch apart to a frame the size of 
the sash, (3x6). This gives an ever-varying, modified 
shade, sufficiently cooling to the house, yet not darkening 
the cutting enough to impair its vigor. These are not 
put on in the morning until the temperature inside indi- 
cates it to be necessary, and are taken ofi" in the after- 
noon as soon as the sun ceases to shine on the glass, for it 
is of the utmost importance that the cuttings receive as 
much light as they will bear without becoming wilted. 
Cuttings rooted in too much shade, and at a high temper- 
ature, are drawn up spindling, and take months to recover 
from the injury done by this injudicious treatment. The 
time required by cuttings to root varies from 5 to 20 days, 
according to the variety, condition of the cutting, and 
temperature. Verbenas, Fuchsias, or Heliotropes, put in in 
proper condition, and kept without ever being allowed to 
wilt, will root in an average bottom heat of 65°, in 8 days, 
while Roses, Pelargoniums, or Petunias, will take at least 
double that time under the same conditions. 

Another point of importance, and one too often neglect- 
ed, is to pot off the cuttings at once, when rooted, no mat- 
ter how small the roots may be ; half an inch is a much 
better length for them to be when potted than two inches, 
and the operation is much more quickly performed when 
the roots are short than when long. But the main evils 
of delaying the pottmg off of cuttings are, that when 



100 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

left too long the cuttings grow up weak for want of room, 
the roots, which become hard and woody, do not strike 
freely into the soil, greater care is i-equired in shading and 
watering after potting, and the plant usually loses its 
lower leaves, weakening its vitality, and subjecting it to 
a greater chance of disease. With but few exceptions, 
cuttings should never be potted into pots exceeding 2i£ 
inches in diameter ; tlie infant plant in its transition state 
has as yet but limited vitality, and should not be gorged 
with food. The soil used should be sifted fine, through a 
sieve with meshes something less than ^ of an inch in diam- 
eter ; thus fine, it is more congenial to the roots, delicate 
as yet, and besides, it is more easily and quickly used in the 
operation of potting. After potting they should be set on 
a bench covered with an inch or two of sand, and freely 
watered with a fine rose watering-pot, and for two or 
three days treated exactly, in shading and watering, as if 
they were yet in the propagating bed. If at this stage 
they are allowed to wilt from drying, or excess of heat, 
feeble and sickly plants will be the result. 

The preceding method is that in use in most of the large 
florists' establishments in the vicinity of New York, and 
is applicable wherever there are regular propagating 
and plant houses ; but as there are hundreds of amateur 
florists having, perhaps, only one green-house, and thou- 
sands who have no green-house at all, who would gladly 
know how to increase their plants, to these we can detail 
a simple method, yet one equally effective and safe. This 
method has already been described by me in several of 
our horticultural periodicals, and I can now offer nothing 
new on the subject. It is called the 

" SAUCER SYSTEM " OF PROPAGATING, 

because saucers or plates are used to hold the sand in 
which the cuttings are placed. This sand is put in to the 
depth of an inch or so, and the cuttings inserted in it close 

4* 



PEOPAGATION OF PLATSTTS BY CUTTIlSIGfJ, ]0l 

enough to touch each other ; the sand is then watered un- 
til it becomes in the condition of mud, and placed on tlie 
shelf of the green-house, or in the window-sill of the sit- 
ting-room or jDarlor, fully exposed to the sun, and never 
shaded. But one condition is essential to success, — until 
the cuttings become rooted the sand must be kept con- 
tinually saturated^ and kept in the condition of mud j if 
once allowed to dry up, exposed to the sun as they are, 
the cuttings will quickly wilt, and the whole operation 
will be defeated. The rules previously laid down for 
the proper condition of the cuttings are the same in this 
case, and those for the temperature nearly so ; although, by 
the saucer system, a higher temperature can be maintained 
without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed in 
water and will not droop at the same temperature as if 
the sand was kept in the regular condition of moisture 
maintained in the propagating bench. Still the detached 
slip, until rooted, will not endure a continuation of exces- 
sive heat, so that we advise, as we do in the regular meth- 
od of jjropagating, that the attempt should not be made 
to root cuttings in this way, in this latitude, in the months 
of June, July, or August, unless with plants of a tropical 
nature. When the cuttings are rooted, they should be 
potted in small pots, and treated carefully by shading and 
watering for a few days, as previously directed. 

In many of the operations in floriculture as in vegeta- 
ble gardening, success or failure depends upon their being 
done at the j^roper time, and though it may seem like a 
needless repetition, I can not too strongly enforce upon 
the novice the importance of observing the dates that the 
experience of our best cultivators has shown to be best 
under our peculiar climate. Whoever in this matter fol- 
lows the directions of an English work upon horticulture 
will be sure to fall into difliculties, although its teach- 
ings may be exactly suited to the English climate. I 
wonld here refer to the evils arising from the too common 



102 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTURE. 

l)ractice of many of our agricultural and horticultural 
journals, of selecting from English papers articles that 
ofLcii seriously mislead. For example, a Boston maga- 
zine a year or two ago copied a long article from the 
English Journal of Horticulture^ telling us in a very 
patronizing way how to propagate the golden tricolor- 
leaved geraniums. The writer laid great stress on having 
a sharp knife and cutting the slip in a particular manner, 
then to insert it in silver sand, and a lot of other non- 
sense that any boy of six months' practice here would 
have known was absurd ; but, above all, the operation 
was to be performed in July ! He might have got the 
sharpest knife that was ever made, and the purest silver 
sand that ever lay on the seashore, bub he would have ut- 
terly failed in our climate, if he attempted the work in 
July. This is only one of scores of such absurd selec- 
tions as we see yearly in some of our horticultural jour- 
nals. If the conductors of such have not original matter 
to fill up with, better far that they leave their pages blank 
than to show their utter ignorance of what is suitable to 
our climate. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

HOW PLANTS AND FLOWERS ARE GROWN. 

Many of my readers live so remote from our great 
cities and towns, that "Flower manufacturing," as it may 
be termed, is something by them unseen and even un- 
heard of. To such the accompanying sketches, taken in 
the middle of the month of December, from our establish- 
ment in Jersey City, ^. J., may be interesting as well as 
instructive. 

Figure 31 represents an inside section of a propagating 
house. This has a propagating bench or table on each 
side, having a ledge to it, and is covered with about three 



HOW FLOWERS ARE GROWN. 



103 




31. — FIRST STAGE. — CUTTINGS OF VEKBENAS. 




iiiliiipi* 



Fig;. 33.— SECOND stage.— verbenas in pots. 



104 PRACTICAL FLORICULTTTEE. 

inches of clean sand. The engraving shows the cuttings 
as they are inserted in rows in the sand. The space 
shown is about 9 square feet, in which are set about 1,000 
Yerbena cuttings. These are taken in the green state 
from the old plants, cut into lengths of about 2 inches, 
and inserted about half their length in the sand. They 
are shaded when the sun is hot, and freely watered cTery 
day until they take root, which will be in about 8 days 
from the time they are planted in the sand. The proper 
temperature for the sand is G0°, and that of the atmos- 
phere of the green-house should be 10° lower. The sand 
on the bench in which the cuttings are placed is raised to 
a higher temperature than the air of the green-house, 
either by a smoke-flue passing under the bench or by 
pipes containing hot water. As soon as the cuttings are 
rooted they are planted in pots 2' !„ inches in diameter by 
2'!^ in depth, and again freely watered by a fine rose 
watering-pot. 

Figure 32 shows an inside section of n green-house, with 
the plants in this the second stage of growth. These 
operations are continued during the season, from Novem- 
ber to May. In May the plants are ready to be set out in 
the open ground. Some conception of the vast numl)ers 
grown of this plant — the Yerbena — may be formed when 
we say that 300,000 were sent out from this estabhshment 
during the months of March, April, and May of 1873 ; and 
when it is known that there are many hundreds, great and 
small, of florists' establishments in the suburbs of New 
York, all growing more or less of this popular summer 
flowering plant, it may be easily conceived that many 
millions are planted annually. We can well note the in- 
crease of taste in the culture of flowers from this single 
plant alone. Twenty years ago, when we grew 5,000 
Yerbenas one year, we thought we would overstock the 
market ; but we did not, and the vast increase that has 
been steadily made tends to no such result. And it must 



HOW FLOWERS ARE GiiiOVvlN'". 



105 



not be forgotten that this is only one species of flower 
among many hundreds grown. Next in numbers to the 
VerJbena comes the Rose ; of these perhaps half the num- 
ber is sold, but as the plant is more valuable, a far larger 
amount in money is realized. Twenty years ago, 50,000 
roses would have supplied all the demand for New York 
market; it must now require millions. 

Figure 33 shows another phase of green-house culture — 
the growing of plants to produce cut flowers in winter. 




Fig. 33. — POINSETTIA PULCHERKIMA. 

This section show^s a mass Poinsettia pulcherrima^ as 
planted in one of the green-houses. Each of these 
tropical-looking growths is about one foot in diameter, 
and of the brightest scarlet that it is possible to conceive ; 
these are not, however, exactly flowers, but are bracts of 
outer leaves of the flower. They are in perfection just at 
the holidays, and conduce more than any other flower to 
give the tables of onr hospitable New Yorkers on New 
Year's Day a look of gorgeous elegance. In our green- 



ICG 



PliACTICAL FLOKICULTUEj 



houses a space of 3,000 square feet is devoted to this 

plant, and in bright sunshine is presently a blaze of 

scarlet that is perfectly dazzling. 

Fio-ure 34 is a section of a Rose House, where the Tea 
o ... 

Roses are being forced for their buds m winter. A space 

of 6,000 square feet of glass is devoted to this depart- 
ment, producing about a thousand buds daily. The 
varieties grown are very few, as we find only six or eight 







Fii^. 34. — ROSES i:n pots. 

r^orts are suitable for forcing. We name the kinds in 
order of excellence as we iind them — Saffrano, Isabella 
Rprunt, Bon Silene, Duchess d'Brabant, Agrippina, La 
Phenix. These embrace saifron, yellow, straw, pink, car- 
mine, crimson, and rose colors. To force KoseS in winter, 
the plants must be grown in pots during the previous sum- 
mer and fall. It is useless to lift a Rose plant from the 
ground in the fall and expect it to lio\ver well during win- 
ter. 

Figure 35 represents n. section of the house in which is 



HOW ]?LOWERS ARE GROWN. 



107 



arown the DovUe White Chinese Primrose. This is 
tiie ino>t prolific of all winter-flowering phmls. Ihe 




ri,U-. 35. — DOUBLE TRIMEOSES. 

green-house in which we grow these has about 1,000 
square feet of surface. Each plant occupies about a 




Fig. 36.— CARNATIONS. 

square foot of space and produces not less than 500 
flowers on each plant. In fact the whole green-house is 



108 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUHE. 

one continued sheet of snowy whiteness from November 
to May. It is perhaps the most profitable of all winter 
flowering plants grown by tlie florist. 

Figure 36 is a section of Carnations (or Pinks, as they 
are sometimes called) growing, planted out on one of the 
green-house benches. Of late years this has become one 
of our most popular winter flowers, and perhaps more 
space is devoted to it thati to any other flower. Its cul- 
tivation is easy and simple, and for that reason it is less 
profitable here perhaps than anything else grown. The 
cuttings are treated exactly as the Verbenas, already 
described. As the plant is quite hardy, it is plant- 
ed out from the green-houses early in spring, (at the sea- 
son w^e plant cabbages), in the open ground, at about one 
foot each way. The flowers are not allowed to develop 
during the summer, but the buds are cut off" as they appear 
— the flowering I'esources being husbanded for winter. 
In October they are lifted and planted on the benches. 
Many of these plants produce over a hundred flowers. 
The sorts grown are very few, mainly carmine and pure 
white. The Carnation, however, comprises many hun- 
dred varieties ; but we find comparatively few flower sufii- 
ciently freely in winter to warrant their growth ; though 
for private collections a score of sorts might be grown to 
represent the different colors and markings. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

PROPAGATION OF LILIES. 



The increasing interest taken in the Japan and other 
Lilies renders their rapid increase a matter of much inter- 
est, not only to the commercial florist, but to the amateur 
cultivatorj who may wish to increase his stock of some 



PROPAGATION OF LILIES. 



109 



rare or valuable variety, and finds the ordinary mode too 
slow. Jn most species they do not increase by division, 
the usual method, more than at the rate of doubling an- 
nually. There are two rapid modes of propagation, both 
simple enough to be practised by any one, even without 
the aid of green-house or frames, although in the mode to 
wliich we A\ill first allude, the aid of glass will save some 
time in the operation. On examination of the bulb of any 
of the lilies, it will be seen to be made iij) of a number of 
scales, varying in number from twenty to nearly a hund- 
red, according to the size of the bulb ; from five to twen- 
ty of these may be broken off from the outer circle of 
scales without injury to the bulb. Now 
st the base of each scale is a latent bud, 
which under certain conditions develops 
itself as a small bulb. The conditions 
are simply to press the scale down up- 
right in some light, sandy compost, so 
that its upper part is level with, or a little 
below the surface of the compost ; give 
it then a slight watering, and in from one 
to two months bulblets will be formed, as 
shown in figure 27. The best way is to 
use shallow boxes for the purpose, and be- 
gin the operation about the first of Febru- 
ary. Keep the boxes in a temperature of 
from 50° to 60', either in the green-house or dwelling- 
house, for there is no occasion for direct light, and the bulb- 
lets will be formed so that the boxes may be set out in the 
open garden in May. It is best to plunge the boxes in 
the soil, undisturbed, level with the surface, so that they 
will have greater uniformity of moisture. Treated thus, 
the scales will make bulbs of the size of crocus by fall. It 
is better not to disturb the bulbs in the fall, but merely 
cover the boxes, on the approach of severe weather, with 
three or four inches of rough litter or leaves, allowing 




Fig. 37. — SCALE OF 
LILY. 



110 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



them to remain thus covered until spring. In spring, if 
too thick, they may be planted separately, and by fall of 
the second year will make flowering bulbs. 

There is another method of increasing the Lily, which 
is simpler and equally expeditious. On lifting up in 

the fall an old plant 
that has bloomed, it will 
be observed that the 
large bulbs arc formed 
below the roots that are 
thrown out from the 
stem at the surfiice of the 
ground ; after detaching 
this mass of roots from 
the bulb, an examination 
will show that, imbed- 
ded amono; the roots of 
every plant, there are 
from six to twelve small 
bulbs, about the size of 
hazel-nuts, as in figure 
28, in which fewer bulbs 
are shown than are usu- 
ally produced. Allow 
these to remain attaclied 
to the roots, and plant 
the whole closely packed 
together in rows or 
beds, as desirable, covering up on the approach of 
winter, as directed for the scales. In spring, on remov- 
ing the covering, the young bulbs will be starting 
up with great vigor, some of them being of suflicient 
strength to flower the first season, and by fall making 
bulbs, nearly all of which will be of suflicient size to 
fl.ower. This method of increasing the Lily is practised 
by our cultivators, but I am of the opinion that it cannot 




Fig. 33.— LILY BULB WITH BULBLETS. 



I 



PROPAGATION OF LILIES. 



Ill 



be ill use in Europe, else there would be no necessity of 
keepiag the bulbs of the Japan Lilies at the rates they 
liave been held for the past ten years, as by this method 
they can be as profitably grown as Tuberoses, Hyacinths, 
or Tulips, and sold at the same rates. 

The subjoined is a hst of Lilies in the collection of an 
amateur, P. Hanson, Esq., Brooklyn, L. L, who has, per- 
haps, the largest collection possessed by any one in the 
United States. The names of only the most striking vari- 
eties are given, although the collection numbers over 150 
sorts, if the sub-varieties are included. 



Liliura auratum. 

" splendidum. 

" Brown ii. 

" bulbiferum. 
" " bativum. 

" Buscbianum. 

" Camscbatcense. 
" " Sarana. 

" Canadense. 

" rubrum. 

" candidum. 
" " puuctatum. 

" " speciosum. 

'• " spicatura. 

" CatesbJBi. 

'' Carniolicum. 

" Cbalccdonicum. 

" colcbicum (Szowitzianuiii). 

" concolor. 

" cordifolium. 

" Coridion. 

** corruscans. 

" croceura. 

'* auratiacum major. 
" " ■ minor. 

" eximium verura. 

" formosum. Versch. 

*' fulgens atrosanguineum. 
** " incomparable. 

" ^igantcuin. 

" iancifolium album. 
'* '* Melpomene. 



Lilium Iancifolium nanum. 
" " punctatum. 

" " roseum. 

*' " rubrum. 

*' longiflorum. 
" " fuliis variegatts. 

" " Lin-kin. 

*' Martagon. 
" " album. 

** " " punctatum 

" " elegaus. 

" " purpureum, 

" " " flore plena 

*' " " striatum. 

" " superbum. 

" monadelpbum. 

" Ncilgheriense. 

'* Pennsylvanicum. 

" pendulum. 

" peregrinum. 

" Pbiladelphicum. 

" pomponium. 

" pubescens. 

" pulchellum. 

" pumilum. 

" puniceum. 

'* pyrenaicum. 

" sinicum. 

" spectablle. 

" staminosum. 

" superbum. 
'* " Carol iniati;iEi. 



11, 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



Lilium supcrbum iuteum. 
'* '* P3'ramidale. 

** " rubrum. 

" " splendidum. 

" Sibiricurasplciidens. 

*' Thompsonianum. 

" Thunbergianum. 
" " aureum. 

" " pictum. 

" " variegatum. 

" Loddigesiauum. 

" latifolium. 

" pinifolium. 

*' sanguineum. 

" Ycnustuiu. 

" bicoloi-. 

" umbellatura. 
*• " citrinum. 



Lilium umbellatura cruentum. 

" " Groom's Hybrid. 

" " Hendersonii. 

" " raaciilatum, 

•' " Princess of Wales 

" " splendidum. 

" " Thorburnii. 

" tigrinum. 

" " angustifolium. 

" " erectum. 

" " foliis variegatis. 

*♦ " 11. pleno. 

" " Japonicum. 

" " laciniatum. 

" " praecox. 

" volubile. 

" Wallicbianum. 

" Thunbergianum cupreum. 



CHAPTER XV. 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



In the limited space that can be afforded to Roses in the 
present work, the account must of necessity be condensed. 
Those who wish fuller details are referred to works especial- 
ly devoted to Rose culture. Amongst the writers on the 
Rose, are Buist, Parsons, and Parkman, practical horti- 
culturists, all of whom have treated the subject in a clear 
and comprehensive manner. A botanical classification of 
varieties would be useless for our present purpose, but we 
will endeavor to make our readers comprehend the lead- 
ing features of the Garden Classification of the Rose. 
Roses may be classified under three general heads : 

First. — ^Those that bloom only once in the season, em- 
bracing the Hybrid China, Provence, Sweet and Austrian 



CULTURE OF TUE EOSE. 113 

Briers, most of the Mosses, and all climbing varieties that 
are hardy m the latitude of New York. 

Second. — The Hybrid Perpetiials, or Remontants. This 
class is of comparatively recent origin, and was obtained 
by hybridizing the Provence and Damask varieties with 
the Ever-blooming or China. They possess the rough foli- 
age and spiny stems of the former, with, to some extent, 
the intermittent blooming qualities of the latter. This is 
by far the most interesting class of Roses, and embraces 
many hundred varieties, ranging through all the interme- 
diate shadings from purest white to darkest crimson. 
They combine the hardy, robust habit of the Provence 
with its unsurpassed odor, but unfortunately they do not 
jDOssess the ever-blooming qualities of the China. The term 
*' perpetual," therefore, is a complete misnomer, for un- 
less the flowers are cut off as they develop, and the plant 
kept growing freely, but little bloom is ever given, except 
in the regular season of Rose flowering, (here in June), 
and again to some extent in the fall. They, like the pre- 
ceding class, are all hardy in the vicinity of New York. 

Third. — The Monthly or Ever-blooming class, which is 
clearly distinguished from both the preceding by its more 
delicate and shining leaves and stems. It comprises at 
least four sub-classes, namely, tlie Noisette, Tea, Bengal, 
and Bourbon. The Noisettes are aU of rampant growth, 
usually flowering in clusters, and in the Southern States, 
where they are uninjured by winter, are, perhaps, the 
most valuable of all Roses ; a good type of this class is 
seen in the Lamarque (white.) The Tea varieties are 
characterized by slender growth, great delicacy of color- 
ing, and the rich tea fragrance from which the class 
derives its name. Safrano (orange yellow) may be 
taken as a type of these. The Bengal class is not quite 
so numerous or varied in color, but is now so inter. 
mixed with the Bourbon and Tea, that it is difficult 



114: PEACTICAL PLOEICCTLTUEE. 

to tell where to place many of its varieties ; a true type 
of this class is the well-known Agrippina, (crimson). The 
Bourbon class is an extensive one, coming nearer to the 
Hybrid Perpetual in its large and double flowers and 
more rnsrared o-rowtb. and to the Beno-al in the absence 
of all yellow or orange shade of color in its flowers. An 
old and unsurpassed type of this class is the well-known 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, (blush). 

All of this class are tender, and unless in situations partic- 
ularly favored by a dry soil, and well sheltered, are either 
killed outright, or cut down to the roots by the frosts 
in winter almost everywhere in the Northern States. 
Every now and then we hear of new varieties of this class, 
which are represented to be hardy, but I would say to 
amateur readers, and to gardeners whose experience in 
such things has not been suflScient to guide them, that in 
all such cases the vender either is ignorant of what he 
says, or knows that his representations are false. There 
is no more likelihood of our getting a Xoisette, Tea, Ben- 
gal, or Bourbon Rose to prove generally hardy in lati- 
tudes where tlie thermometer runs down below zero, than 
there is to have hardy Camellias or Chinese Azaleas. A 
few years ago, a Western firm had the impudence to 
get up a stock of the old Noisette Rose, Solfaterre, named 
it *' Augusta," and representing it as a " Yellow Ever- 
blooming, hardy " variety, sold some thousands of it at $5 
each. They seem to have sold their reputation at the 
pame time, however, for after perpetrating the swindle, 
they were not afterwards heard of. 

It is with hesitation that we give a list of a few varieties 
of each class, as' to name only one out of every score of 
varieties seems to be unfair and invidious towards those 
not given, which, perhaps, have claims surpassing those 
we thus distinguish. But to describe the different colors 
and characteristics of each class it becomes necessary. 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



115 



CLASS I. 



(Embracing Provence (P.), Hybrid China (H. C), and Damask (D.) 



Name. 



Adonis , 

Alphonse Maille 

Amarille 

Apifolia , 

Baron Cuvier 

Berlese , 

Blancbelieur 

Blairii 

Carmin Royal 

Carnea 

De Candolle 

Elise Vaiart 

Fulgens 

Gen. Foy 

Gazelle 

La Negresse 

La Superbe 

La Touterelle 

Madam Plantier 

Madam Mortier 

Ne Plus Ultra 

Prince Caroline 

Unique 

Unique Panachee... 

Village Maid 

York and Lancaster. 
Warratah 



S^ib Class. Color. 

H. C. Dove color, shaded crimson. 

P. Reddish crimson, extra fine. 

P, Deep blush. 

P. Deep pink, cut leaved. 

H. C. Dark purple, very full. 

P. Purple, speckled crimson. 

H. C. White, tinely cupped form. 

H. C. Light pink, strong grower. 

D. Bright deep rose. 

n. C. Blush. 

H. C. Deep crimson, very fine and fulL 

D. Crimson j)urple. 

H. C. Velvet crimson. 

H. C. Crimson, shaded violet. 

H. C. Rose, spotted carmiue. 

D. Dark, purplish crimson. 

D. Brilliant carmine. 

H. C. Lilac, or dove color. 

H. C. Pure white, free. 

H. C. Dark, velvet crimson. 

H. C. Brilliant scarlet crimson. 

H. C. Rose, shaded crimson. 

P. Pure white. 

P. White, striped rose, 

P. White, purple striped. 

P. Semi-double, striped red and whita 

D. 'Purplish crimson. 



Alice Leroy Lilac shade of rose. 

Blanche Clear wliite, very fragrant. 

Celina Brilliant crimson, very mossy. 

Comtesse de Muvonais Blush, strong grower. 

Cristata Buds crested, color light carmine. 

Damask Moss Light crimson, very fine. 

Etna Crimson, fine cupped form. 

Laneii Deep pink, full double. 

Luxembourg Crimson, purple shaded. 

Perpetual White or 4 Seasons,. Blush white, semi-double, fall flowering: 

Princcsse Adelaide Deep rose, strong grower. 

jnique de Province .White, back of petals red before opening. 

(Vhite Bath Pure white, very mossy. 

ISriers. 

Harrisonii Pale yellow, semi-double. 

Aebe's Lip White, tinted carmine. 

Maiden's Blush Large, blush colored, very fragrant. 



116 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 

Persian Yellow Deep golden yellow. 

Victoria Salmon, centre buff. 

Stan well Blusli white, strong grower. 

Wiiliam 4th White, vigorous grower. 

Yellow Cabbage.,. Deep yellow, very double. 

Cliiii1>ing; Ilo<!»es. 

Baltimore Belle Blush white, blooming in large clusters. 

Eva Corrine Deep blush, very double. 

Gem of the Prairies (Burgess'). Large, full; carmine, blotched white. 

Laura Devoust Deep rose, immense truss. 

Mrs. Hovey French white, large and fine. 

Madam D' Arblay Creamy white, splendid. 

Pallida Pale pink, full and vigorous grower. 

Kuga Blush, exceedingly fragrant. 

Russeliana Crimson, shading to pink. 

Queen of the Prairies Deep rose, striped white. 

Superba Flesh color, clusters immense. 

The Garland Blush, shading to white. 

CLASS IL — IIy1>ri«l Perpetual or Remontant Roses. 

Auguste Mie Pale shade of rose, full and cup-shaped. 

Baronne Prevost Bright rose, very doubhi, extra fine. 

Baronne De Maynard Pure white. 

Blanche Vibert Pure white, delicate grower. 

Beauty of Waltham ..Crimson scarlet. 

Caroline de Sansal Blush pink centre,free, summer blooming 

Cardinal Patrizzi Brilliant crimson. 

Clementine Duval Dwarf habit, clear rose color. 

Comte de Paris Light crimson, lilac shade. 

Comtesse Duchatel Deep carmine, splendid. 

Eugene Appert Scarlet crimson. 

Geant des Batailles Reddish crimson, splendid. 

General Washington Scarlet crimson, very full, free. 

General Forey Clear carmine red. 

General Jacqueminot Purplish crimson, most brilliant. 

General Lane Dark rose. 

Imperatrice Josephine Light rose, very double. 

Jules Margottin Bright scarlet crimson. 

Joseph Vernot , Light rose color. 

John Hopper Deep shade of pink. 

La Reine Satin rose, extra large. 

Louis Verger Carmine crimson, splendid. 

Louis Odier Bright salmon rose, fine form. 

Le Lion des Combats .Curious shade of purple. 

Mrs. Reynolds Cupped carmine, extra fine. 



1 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 117 

Madame de Willennots Mauve shade of carmine. 

Madame Victor Verdier Carmine, cupped. 

Madame C. D'Islay Ligbt rosy blush. 

Madame Laffiiy Crimson, exceedim^ly fragriint. 

Madame Trotter Bright pink, flowering- in cJuaiers. 

Madame Rivers Silvery blush, splendid form. 

Mrs. Cliarles Wood Brilliant red, changing to rose. 

Oderic Vitalle Delicate rose, silvery shading. 

Pteonia Reddish crimson, very profuse bloomer. 

Purple of Orleans Purplish violet. 

Pius 9th Crimson violet. 

Princesse Mathilde Deep blush. 

Queen Victoria Pale flesh color, tinted carmine. 

Reine des Violettes Dark purplish violet. 

Sydonia Light blush. 

Souvenir de Count Cavour Dark, glossy crimson. 

Triomphe de I'Exposition Crimson red, extra fine. 

William Penn Light crimson, finely cupped. 

Wm. Griffith Deep rose, splendid form. 

Wm. Jess Light crimson, lilac tinge. 

Tolland D'Arragon Blush, free summer bloomer. 

Zelpha White, tinged blush. 

Zoe Clear scarlet crimsoii, extra fine. 

CLASS IIL— Noisette. 

Aime Vibert Clear white, fine form. 

America Straw color, shaded salmon. 

Belle de Bordeaux Rose, violet shaded. 

Chromatella Deep yellow, very tender. 

Caroline Marniesse Blush white, immense clusters. 

Gloire de Dijon Blush wliite, buff centre. 

Herbemont's Cluster .Deep carmine, semi-double. 

James Sprunt Deep crimson. [extra. 

Lamaraque Large, double; white, yellowish centre, 

Minette Light crimson, very double,large clusters. 

Madame Deslongchaiups Pare white. 

Marshal Niel Lai-ge and full, deep yellow, extra. 

Ophir. ., Salmon, shaded orange ; distinct. 

Oteri .Orange, shaded pink ; dwarf. [thers. 

Rosamond Bright crimson, semi-double, yellow an* 

Smithii Pure yellow, slender grower. 

Susanna Yellowish white, strong grower. 

Souvenir d'Anseleme Deep carmine, vigorous grower. 

Sarmentosa Flesh color, large, full, very fine. 

Solf ilaterre Deep straw color, large, extra fine. 

Sir Walter Scott Dark purple, strong grower. 

Setlna. , Clear pink, large and full. , 



118 PBACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

■Washington Pure white, semi-double, large clusteru 

Triumphant Large, double rose, vigorous. 

Weirs Pink Rich full clusters of carmine roac. 

Zobede Crimson and pui-ple shaded. 

Bourbon. 

Bosanquet Rich blush, free grower end bloomer. 

Bouquet de Flore Deep carmine, large and fragrant. 

Cardinal Fesch Deep crimson purple. 

Crimson Globe Purplish crimson, strong grower. 

De Tourville Purplish carmine, very fine. 

Due de Chartres Large, double ; crimson. 

Edouard Defosses Bright rose, cup-shaped. 

George Cuvier Rosy carmine, splendid form. 

Glory of Algiers Bright crimson. 

Henri Plantier Deep pink, splendid shape. 

Henry Clay Pale blush. 

Hermosa Light rose, one of the most popular. 

Jules Farfait Rosy purple, fine form, extra, 

Jupiter Rich shade of crimson violet. 

Leveson Gower Salmon rose, very large and double. 

Madam Xeuman Purplish crimson. 

Paul Joseph Splendid crimson, but weak grower. 

Phenix Deep rose, with fixigrance of Damask. 

Pierre de St Cyr Pale pink, strong grower. 

Proserpine Light c:irmine, very fragrant. 

Psyche Light rose, very double, excellent 

Queen of Bourbons Rich blush, very dwarf habit. 

Splendens Splendid crimson, vigorous. 

Souvenir de la Malmaison Flesh color, very double, splendid, [best. 

Sombriel Blush white, strong grower, one of the 

Vicomte de Cassy Cherry red, vigorous grower. 

Vulcan Deep shade of carmine. 

Tea. 

Adam Rich rose, salmon shaded, extra. 

Alphonsine Deep pink, fine form. 

Aurora Tellow, shaded rose. 

Bella Pure white, tea-scented. 

Belle Allemande Blush, tinted rose. 

Buret Large; deep pink. 

Bon Silene Large; rich pink. 

Camellia Blanche Pure white. 

Cortas Blush, mottled pink. 

Caroline Pale rose, deep carmine centre. 

Chas. Reybaud Salmon, tinted lilac. 

Chf ysocome Tellow, shaded orange. 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 119 

Clara Sylvain Pure white, extra fine. 

Devouiensis Blusli ; magnolia fragrance ; delicate. 

Fleur de Cygnes French wliite, profuse blooiner. 

Isabella Sprunt Clear canary yellow. 

Louise de Savoy Deep yellow, delicate. 

Le Pactole Canary yellow. 

Melville Pinkish lilac. 

Marie de Ban Rich blush. 

Madame Maurin Pure white. 

Madame Bravy Globular, white. 

Madame Falcot Orange yellow, very free. 

Nina. Large ; pinkish violet. 

Olympe Fraguip Sulphur yellow. 

Pauline Labonte Light blush. 

Rubens Yellowish blush. 

Souvenir d'un Ami Light lilac. 

Soette French white. 

Safrano Orange yellow. 

White Tea 

Beng;a,l« 

Appoline Cupped carmine. 

Agrippina Bright crimson. 

Bourbon Queen Rich blush. 

Beau Carmine Light crimson. 

Bosanquet Blush white. 

Comte Bobinsky Rich carmine. 

Ct. De Rohan Purplish red. 

Cramoise Superior Purplish crimson. 

Douglas Rich violet. 

Louis Philippe Light crimson. 

Leondis Rosy red. 

Madame Morel Cream color, centre pink. 

Madame Rohan Pure white. 

Napoleon Blush, extra large. 

Romeo Dark reddish-crimson. 

Sully Pale rose, tinted salmon. 

Virginale Rose and crimson. 

Vesuvius Brilliant crimson. 

PROPAGATION AND CULTURE. 

The soil best suited to the Rose is a rather stiff loaui, 
although it is by no means particular about soils, and is 
often seen growing in nearly equal luxuriance in those 
widely different ; in stiff clayey loam, however, flowers 



120 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

of more substance and depth of coloring will be produced 
than in that of a light or sandy character. 

The propagation of tlie Rose is a matter of much 
interest, not only to the professional florist but to the 
amateur who wishes to increase his plants. The method 
in use by florists in this country is usually by cuttings, 
directions for which will be found among the general in- 
structions given under the head of " Propagation of Plants 
by Cuttings." 

Roses from ripened or hard wood may be propagated, 
the operation being performed at any time from October 
to January. The cuttings are usually made with three or 
four eyes, just after the wood is ripened enough to show 
the development of the buds at the axil of the leaf. The 
method we have most successfully practiced is to place 
cuttings in cold frames, such as are formed on the surface 
of the ground, and are used for wintering cabbage, and 
cauliflower, planting the cuttings exactly as we would do 
those pln;nts, and subjecting them to the same winter treat- 
ment of airing, yet keeping them as free from severe 
freezing as can be done during winter. Rose cuttings 
placed in such frames about the end of October will be 
rooted and fit to pot in March. Tiiose not having the 
convenience of frames may do it equally well with the 
protection of the ordinary garden hand glass. In either 
case it is necessary that the soil be thoroughly drained so 
that no water stand on it in winter. If the soil in which 
they are placed is not naturally sandy, it had better be 
prepared in about equal proportions of sand, leaf mould, 
and loam, well mixed together. The cuttings should be 
inserted quite thickly, say from ^Ij to 1 inch apart, and 
at distances of about 3 inches between the rows. This 
snace is suflicient to allow the soil to be firmly pressed 
about the cuttings, as the process of placing them goes 
on. One thorough watering, when put in to settle the soil 
closely around them, will usually be all that is necessary 



CULTURE OP THE ROSE. 



121 



until they begin to root in spring. Cuttings planted m 
this manner in October or November, and kept merely 
from freezing during winter, will be rooted in March, pre- 
senting the appearance shown in figure 29. 

The success much depends on the varieties and fit con- 
dition of the cuttino;s, ^^ 
for we find that in a icl^ 
collection of 50 sorts, MiiMxt^^^ 
every cutting of some 
varieties will root, while 
in others we fail to get 
more than 5 per cent. 
But if properly treated 
it may be safe to ex- 
pect 50 j3er cent of 
rooted cuttings as an 
average. As soon as, or 
even before, they show 
the extent of root in- 
dicated in the engrav- 
ing, they should be pot- 
ted in two-inch pots, 
shaded and watered for 
a few days and gradu- 
ally hardened ofi*by ex- Fig. 39.— cutting of old wood. 
posing tliem to the air, when they will be sufficiently 
rooted to plant in the open ground in April or May. Some 
propagators plant them at once from the cutting bed to 
the open ground, but this is attended with risk, for unless 
the weather is continuously favorable for two or three 
days one-half of them may be lost. We have always 
found that placing them in pots and keeping them under 
the protection of sashes for a few vv^eeks well repaid the 
extra labor. Nearly all deciduous shrubs may be propa- 
gated in this manner, most of them even more successfully 
than the Rose. 




122 



rilACTICAL P^LOr.ICULTURE. 



The method best suited to the amateur or to those who 
have no propagating structures, is by Layering. 

This is done as shown in figure 30. It will be observed 
that the cut is made on the upper part of the shoot ; the 
advantage of this is, that when the layer is detaclied from 
the parent plant, the tongue of the layer, or the part from 
which the roots are emitted, is less likely to be broken off 
than if the cut is made under or on the side. Layers of 
Roses may be made at any time from the middle of June to 
the middle of September, always using shoots of the young 




Tig. 40, — LAYERING THE ROSE. 

growth — that is, a growth of 3 or 4 weeks old, or such as 
are not so much ripened as to drop tlie leaves ; or, in other 
words, the cut should always be made at that ]jart of the 
shoot where there are as green and healthy leaves below 
as above the cut. This condition of the shoot is very im- 
portant, in order to produce a well-rooted layer. By cut- 
ting lower down in the harder-ripened wood, roots will be 
produced, but the layers will be very inferior to those cut 
at about the point named. The same rule applies to the 
layering of shrubs of all kinds. 

Another mode of layering not in general use is, to j^lace 
the layer where the incision is made, in a 3 or 4-inch pot, 
sinking the pot in the ground to the level of the rim ; all 
the roots being confined in the pot, when the layer is lifted 
no check is given, as there is no injury done to the small 
fibers. Layers so made may be planted out in the fall, 
and if a little mulching is given around the roots, not one 
plant in a hundred will fail ; while if the layering is done 



CULTURE OF THE EOSE. 123 

in the usual way, without pots, a heavy percentage is 
almost certain to be lost during the winter. To the florist 
without proper means of propagation, this method of 
layering Roses in pots will be found very advantageous, 
as every layer so made will make an excellent flowering- 
plant by spring, if kept in a green-house or frame during the 
winter, and will prove nearly as valuable to the purchaser 
as large one-year-old plants would. Roses are also pi'op- 
agated by budding in the usual way. Budding, like layer- 
ing, may be performed on the Rose at any time during the 
season from June to September, although it is best to per- 
form it either so early, say before the middle of July, that 
the buds will start and the shoots get time to ripen before 
frost, or so late, from the end of August to the 1st of Oc- 
tober, that the buds will remain dormant until spring. 

That the operation may be successful, it is essential 
that the stock be in thrifty growth, so that the bark will 
freely part from the stem, and, also, that the bud to be 
inserted be taken from a healthy-growing plant, the eye 
or bud at . the axil of the leaf being well developed. 
There is quite a diversity of opinion among diflerent 
operators whether the thin piece of Avood should be re- 
moved from the bud before insertion. We have experi- 
mented extensively in both ways, and found but little 
difierence in our success, and have finally settled down to 
the practice that if the bud is young and unripened, the 
wood be allowed to remain ; if well ripened, it is taken 
out. In tying, we prefer the soft cotton used for lamp- 
wick in preference to any other material, as it expands 
with the growth of the shoot, doing away with the neces- 
sity of slacking the tie to prevent it from cutting the bark. 
I,.'.,-' 

MONTHLY EOSES— HOW TO PEESEEVE DUEING WINTEE. 

The question is asked me many hundred times every 
season, " What kind of Roses shall I plant ?" I invaria- 
bly recommend the " Monthly," rather than the so-called 



124 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



" Pei'petual " varieties, Avliich, with very few exceptions, 
sustain their " Perpetual " character by only once flower- 
ing freely, in June, with occasionally a few scattering 
flowers throughout the summer and fill. V7hile with the 
monthly varieties, we have not only a monthly, but an 
almost daily supply of floAvers, embracing far more vari- 
ety of color, from June till November. There is no plant 
sold, which, for the first season, at least, is so unsatisfac- 
tory to the buyer as the Perpetual Rose ; tiie purchaser 
in good faith believes that its name indicates a perpetual 
flowering character, and is woefully disappointed to find 
that the flowers or flower buds which are on it when pur- 
chased are nearly the last that are seen on it for that sea- 
son. True, its entirely hardy nature, sustaining it un- 
scathed through the winter, compensates for the first 
year's disappointment by a gorgeous bloom in June, but 
this is all ; for the remainder of the season there is 
little ornamental about it. On the other hand, the 
Monthly Rose, the original types of which are natives of 
China, are evergreen and ever-blooming, if not arrested 
by severe frosts, for in the milder latitudes of our South- 
ern States, they grow and bloom without cessation the 
entire season, unless, perhaps, for a month or two in ex- 
tremely dry and hot weather in summer. But now comes 
the question, Are tliese Monthly Roses hardy in our 
Northern States? , They are certainly not so with ordinary 
treatment, but I will briefly describe a very simple j? roc- 
ess by which they can be preserved in as good condition 
during winter as the hardiest Perpetual or Prairie Rose. 
The success of the plan, however, depends greatly on the 
condition of the soil in which tliey are growing. If it is 
naturally dry, having a gravelly or sandy subsoil, it is 
certain to succeed ; but if wet and undrained, they can- 
not be saved by this or any otlier process. The operation 
is to remove three or four inches of soil from one side of 
the plant close up to the roots, and of a length and width 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



125 




Fiar. 41.— digging the trench. 



proportioned to the size of the bush, as represented "by- 
figure 31. The plant is next bent down into the excava- 
tion, and held in place by a 
few pegs, as shown in figure 
32. It is then covered en* 
tirely, root and branches, by 
sods, placed grassy side up- 
wards, and presents, v/hen 
finished, a little hillock, in 
appearance like figure 33. 
There is one very important condition to success, which 
is, the time at loMch it is done. Few of our rose ama- 
teurs have any idea of the amount of freezing that the 
most tender Tea Rose even, will sustain Avithout injury, 
and would, in consequence, 
be apt to hurry to put their 
plants under their winter 
covering on the appearance 
of the first sliglit frost in '!*i"-.$ 
October. This would most 
certainly prove fatal, by 
causing them to rot during the still warm autumn 
weather. We usually liave frost in this part of the coun- 
try in October to injure most green-house plants tliat are 
exposed. Yet I have never seen it severe enough to in- 

— =-- __ jure Roses of any kind be- 

_^^^'=T=^m^^3 foi"e the middle of December, 

to which time the covering 
up should be delayed. Cov-» 
ering the ground, however, 
around the 1 )ushes with three 

or four inches of straw or 
Fis. 43.-coyERED for winter, j^^^,^^^ ^^ prevent the earth 

from being frozen, should be done a month earlier ; tliis Httle 
precaution will allow of excavation at the time of covering 
with the sod. The time here given for the operation (the 




Fig. 43. — pegged down. 








126 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

middle of December) is that best suited for the latitude of 
Nevf Yoi-k ; sections to the north or soutli must be varied 
accordingly. Perhaps the best rule that can be given is, 
to delay tlie operation until the ground can no longer be 
plowed or dug with the spade. The covering of sod may be 
removed as soon as vegetation f lirly starts in spring — for 
tliis section, say t1ie middle of April — and the plants raised 
to the npriglit position and closely pruned. It will be mi- 
derstood that in the process of bending down, the roots 
are only disturbed slightly on the side that has been ex- 
cavated; consequently they have nearly the full vigor of 
midisturbed roots, and the plants will grow in a way that 
will amply repay the little labor bestowed upon them. Ev- 
ery plant thus saved over has a value four-fold that .of any 
thing which can be planted in spring, for the obvious reason 
that it lias not had its roots disturbed by removal. This 
plan is a great improvement on that sometimes practised 
of digging theui up and burying them in the fall, to be 
unearthed and again replanted in spring, for this cannot 
be done without mutilation of the root, and consequently 
diminished growth the next season. Plants of different 
kinds vnry much in their ability to recuperate after plant- 
ing, and few suffer more than the Rose ; hence the necessity 
of practising the method recommended, in preference to 
that of digging them up. But a still worse plan is, for 
amateurs in gardening to lift their Rose plants and pot 
them in fall, and attempt to keep them in the house or 
cellar in v/inter; in nine cases out of ten they never live 
till spring, and if they do, only linger out a miserable and 
diseased existence. Roses are often exiDcnsive, and always 
valued plants, and we can well imagine how natural it is 
on the approach of cold weather to lift and pot them, and 
l^lace them in the w^indow of a warm sitting-room or 
parlor ; but this kindness is killing to them, for they are 
not a kind of plant that desires heat at this season, or in 
this condition of their growth. It is still more delusive to 



CULTURE OF THE EOSE. 127 

think that they can be lifted from the ground in fall anrl 
potted so that tliey will bloom during winter ; perhaps by 
such treatment as can be given in a cool green-house or 
frame, they may be got to bloom by February or March, 
but they should never be forced into bloom earlier, unless 
they have been grown in pots during the summer pre- 
vious. 

The above is described as applied to a single plant, but 
a whole bed may be covered in the same manner. 

EOSES IN POTS. 

As millions of Roses are now sold in pots in spring, we 
will briefly state tlie method we have most successfully 
adopted in growing large numbers annually for the past 
dozen years. The plants used are those struck from cut- 
tings in March and April, and planted out in the open 
ground in May ; these make plants averaging 18 inches 
in height, with proportionate breadth, by the first of No- 
vember. Although, as before stated, we make no special 
preparation of soil for any particular class of plants, we 
are always more careful that the soil used for Roses be 
fresh. While our regular mixture of decomposed sods 
and manure suits very well for plants generally when it is 
two or three years old, we prefer that for Roses to be but 
a few months cut from the field before it is used. In 
lifting up the plants from the ground, all possible care is 
taken to save the fibres from injury, and they are, on no 
consideration, ever allowed to be exposed to drying winds 
or to wilt in any way, being sprinkled at intervals while 
laying in the heaps in the potting shed. We prefer to 
prune (which we do with scissors) before potting ; it is not 
only done twice as quickly, but it also relieves the plant at 
once from surplus shoots, and being, when pruned, more 
compact to handle, it can be potted in half the time. The 
pots used are from 4 to 8 inches in diameter, in propor- 



128 



PKACTICAL FtORICTJLTUEE. 



tion to the size of the plants. The potting is done rather 
firmer than in most plants, the Rose preferring a stiff soil. 
When potted, they are freely watered ; shaded, if sunny, 
and kept close for 8 or 10 days. Now comes the most 
important point, the place in which they are to be kept 
dm-ing winter. This must be where they will not be 
excited into growth ; an ordinary green-house tempera- 
ture, suited for Geraniums or Fuchsias, would be destruc- 
tive to Roses in tlieir dormant state, when they are with- 
out '• working roots." If kept in a green-house at all, its 
temperature should never exceed 40° at night, with fire- 
heat, and if it falls down to 82°, now and then, it will do 
no harm. But this kind of temperature can be best ob- 
tained in a cold jDit or frame, where there is no flue or 
pipes, or other means of heating. These pits should be 
sunk from 18 inches to 2 feet below the level of the 
ground, in some sheltered spot, facing south, and, above 
all, so situated that no water will stand in the bottom of 
the pit ; if not naturally dry, it must be made so by 
thorough draining. The Roses placed in the pit should 
be plunged to the rim of the pots in tan bark, sawdust, 
coal ashes, or some such material. Air should be given 
at all times when the weather will permit, and the sashes 
covered sufficiently at night to prevent the plants being 
frozen much ; a slight frost may not injure, but they will 
be safer and better if never frozen at all. In severe snow- 
storms, the plants being in a dormant state, there is no 
occasion to uncover for two or three weeks, unless to 
take precautions against the inroads of mice or rats, 
which are often destructive. We allow the Roses, when 
placed in frames, to remain in them until the middle of 
February, by which time they have formed young root- 
lets, and will then stand the higher temperature of the 
green-house, to which they are then brought to get them 
in shape to force into bloojn, so as *^^o be in salable con- 
dition in April and May. 



CULTIJEE OF THE ROSE. 129 

EOSES FOK WINTER BLOOMIISTG. 

Roses for -winter blooming require a different treatment, 
as one essential condition of forcing for flower is that the 
plant has abundance of active, or, as we term them, 
"working roots."" For this reason, Roses required for 
winter blooming are either planted out in prepared bord- 
ers in the green-house in spring or early summer, or else 
groAvn in pots throughout the summer, so that by fall the 
plant is supplied with an abundance of "working roots." 
Plants are started for this purpose either by cuttings struck 
in March, or else the year-old plants are used ; but in 
either case, care must be taken that shiftings are made 
sufficiently often during the season to prevent the roots 
becoming what is termed pot-bound. In this condition, 
there is a matting of hard roots formed around the ball 
of soil, and touching the sides of the pot. Whenever the 
fibres begin to lose their whiteness and become hard and 
woody, their power of absorption, to a great extent, 
ceases, and, in consequence, we at once have a loss of 
vigor in the plant. For this same reason, every care must 
be taken to have the plants supplied with moisture during 
the hot, dry days of summer, for, if once allowed to wilt, 
you have dried up the white, working roots, and before 
the plant can regain its impaired vigor, new ones must be 
formed. We find that when we dig up a Rose plant in 
November, and pot it with all the care possible, we can- 
not get it to regain its vigor, unless it is kept at the low - 
temperature previously recommended until nature has re- 
paired the destruction of the feeding roots, which occurred 
in digging it up. By attempting to force it into flower, by 
placing it in a high temperature in this condition, you will 
either kill it outright, or else cause it to produce a few fee- 
ble and abortive shoots and flowers. But the case is very 
different if the plant has been so treated as to have an abund- 
ance of active roots ; its system is in full vigor, and it wili 



ISO PRACTICAL FLORICULTUKE. 

continue to produce shoots and flowers in profusion 
during an 3^ part of fall or winter, at the will of the 
operator, proper judgment being used to prune in the 
plants previous to the desired time of flowering. Thus, 
if Rose-buds are wanted at the first of January, it will be 
necessar}' to prune oflT or shorten the shoots about Novem- 
ber 1st ; they may then be put into a temperature ranging 
from 50° to 60°, at night, with 15° higher daring the day, 
plentifully syringed, but sparingly supplied with water at 
the roots until they begin to grow freely. In the summer 
treatment, I have oujitted to state that tlie plants should 
be at all times fully exposed to the sun, but, to counteract 
the drying up from this exposure, the pots should be 
plunged to the rim in sawdust, refuse hops, tan bark, sand, 
or some such material, as is most convenient. Another 
plan that may be adopted when it is not convenient to 
carry the Roses through the summer in pots, is to 
lift up and pot those planted out early in the fall, say 
by the middle of September, or, at latest, the fiist of 
October ; if carefully lifted thus early, and kept from 
wilting, they will have filled the pots with working roots 
by November, and will make plants nearly as good for 
forcing as those grown throughout the entire summer in 
pots. For this purpose, two-year-old plants are much bet- 
ter than those only one year old, as, having more fibres, 
they more quickly form the essential " working" roots. 

In 1870 we built a green-house for roses, 300 feet long 
and 21 feet in width, of which figure 44 is an end sec- 
tion. It differs from that figured on page 65 in being one 
foot wider and having the back and middle bench on the 
same level, which we find to be of convenience in work- 
ing, besides giving the roses a better chance to grow 
higher. The question of the walls for such a structure as 
this is a very important one. We find that if brick is to 
be used for the north or back wall, it must be made 
hollow, as a solid wall of even oneTfoot in thickness will 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



131 



not stand the extremes of temperature, between the out- 
side and inside; but as a hollow wall is an expensive 
matter, I would recommend to those with whom economy- 
is an object to construct the walls thus: Get strong 
locust, chestnut, or cedar posts, of length sufficient to 
allow them to set 3 feet in the ground ; place these 6 feet 
apait ; outside of these nail hemlock or other rough 
l>oards; against this tack a layer of asphalt or tarred 
paper, and then against the paper nail the weather- 
boarding, finishing at the top with a hollowed-out timber, 




J{oWaicm/\es 



Fig. 44. — END SECTION OF ROSE-HOUSE. 

6 or 8 inches wide, for a gutter. A green-house of this 
kind, heating apparatus, and all complete, will cost at 
present prices from |20 to $25 per running foot; with 
hollow brick walls, it would cost about $30 per running 
foot. The use of tarred paper for green-house walls is 
only a recent one ; formerly we used to fill in with brick, 
or use double boarding, leaving a space of two or three 
inches, which was filled in with charcoal, sawdust, or some 
other non-conducting material ; but the tarred paper is by 
far the cheaper and better. The rose-house we erected 
last year contains about 5,000 plants, grown in 10 and 12- 
inch pots, occupying about a square foot of space for each 



132 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

plant. No plants could possibly be in better health and 
vigor ; and the amount of rose-buds gathered from Oc- 
tober to May, 30 weeks, averaged about 2,000 buds per 
week. At New York rates, which are vei-y low — say 86 
per 100 — this would give about $3,600 for the crop. The 
varieties grown I will name in the order of their value 
here: Safrano (orange jqWov^i)^ Isabella Spruiit (canary 
yellow), Bon Silene (carmine purple), and Bella (white). 
These are all Tea-roses, and the varieties most valued for 
forcing ; Bon Silene is the favorite, and is largely grown 
about Boston. One florist there sent last New Year's 
Day, 1872, to the bouquet-makers of New York 1,200, 
for which he received $300, or $25 per 100. This variety, 
from its delicious odor and rare and bright shade of color,. 
is generally of twice the value of any other; but against 
this advantage is the fact that it is less prolific of bloom, 
scarcely yielding half the number of flowers in a given 
space as any of the others named. The method of sum- 
mer preparation for forcing is to secure good healthy 
young plants that have been propagated in March or 
April ; these, when first taken from the cutting-bench, 
are placed in 2 or 3-inch pots ; if rooted in March, they 
will have filled the small pots with roots by the middle of 
April ; if in April, by middle of May. In either case 
they should be shifted into larger pots as soon as the ball 
of soil has been filled with white roots ; if left too long 
unshifted, the roots become brown in color, and of a hard, 
woody nature ; if in this condition they become checked 
in growth, they never afterward make so fine plants. Of 
course, until the middle of May, these shiftings of the 
young plants must be done under glass, but after that 
time they should be placed in beds of convenient width, 
say 4 or 5 feet, in some free and airy situation. When 
first shifted from a smaller to a larger pot, the plants 
should be placed close together, the rims of the pots 
touching; but as they begin to grow freely the pots 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 133 

should be drawn apart, so that the rims stand an inch or 
so clear of each other. This is very important, in order 
to admit free circulation of air around the sides of the 
pots, and develop strong and healthy roots. Until the 
middle of June we stand the pots on the surface of the 
ground ; but about that time it is necessary to plunge the 
pots to the rim in sand, coal-ashes, waste tan-bark, or 
some such dry and light material. If this is not done 
they can hardly be kept damp enough ; and the intense 
heat of the sun beating down on the sides of the pots 
dries up the young rootlets. It is necessary that the beds 
wherein the Roses are plunged should be so arranged that 
no water will lodge at the roots, as that would be quickly 
fatal. Last fall we found it necessary, after a heavy rain- 
storm, to lift the pots out of the sand in which they had 
been plunged, to allow them to dry. Forty-eight hours 
of heavy rain would have killed the young roots. It is 
also essential to watch that the roots do not get through 
the bottom of the pot ; to prevent this, they should be 
turned around at least every ten days, to break off any 
roots that may have run through. It will be understood 
that continued shiftings into larger pots are necessary 
during intervals of four or five weeks during the summer, 
until September, by which time, if well grown, they will 
be of sufficient size to require pots of 10 or 12 inches in 
diameter. If it is preferred that the roses be planted out 
for winter flowering, it should be done in August, and in 
solid beds in the green-house not on board benches. We 
never shift them after middle of September, as the roots 
they have then made are sufficient to carry them through 
the winter and spring, stimulated, hov/ever, by w^ater 
drained from the manure heap, which ^ve use twice a 
week, from January on to May, diluted to the color of 
strong tea. The expenses attendant on the cultivation, 
and the interest on the investment of this rose-house the 
past season, were about as follows ; 



134 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. . 

First cost of stock, if it liad to be bought, 5,000 roses at 10 cts.. $500 

Interest on $6,000, at 13 per cent 720 

Labor of one man for the year 500 

80 tons coal, at $6 480 

Receipts for the year 3,600 

Profit $1,400 

The second year, of course, the expense of buying 
stock would not come in, as the plants would be in better 
order the second and even the third year than the first ; 
besides, if young plants are wanted for sale, they might 
be propagated in any quantity from the flowering 
plants. 

We built in spring of 1872 two houses, each 20 feet 
widi by 100 in length, for the winter flowering of Roses, 
that have answered the purpose so well, and besides the 
construction is such that it may be adapted to almost any 
kind of a plant house or for a grapery, that we give the 
plan here, believing it Avill be found well suited for many 
purposes. Figure 45 sbows the elevation of a portion of 
one of these houses, and figure 46 the ground plan. As 
we use it, the centre bed is prepared exactly as if for a 
grapery border, the bottom of the bed is level with 
the walk, plastered over with an inch or two of cement 
(to keep the roots from going down to the cold sub- 
soil), sloping to eacli side so as to give rapid drain- 
age through openings that are left in the bottom of the 
8-inch wall which forms tlie bed. The height of this 
wall is 20 inches, making the bed or border of that depth. 
The materials that we formed the border of were 3 parts 
decomposed sod, 2 parts scraping from a paved street and 
1 part well rotted cow manure. The street scrapings are 
not specially necessary, and may be dispensed with when 
not procurable, using all sod instead. . The Roses, which 
are the usual winter flowering sorts, have done excellently. 
The side benches of the house under which run the pipes 



CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



135 




© © © ^ 



@ ^ ® 



Fig. 45. — END VIEW AND PLAN OF KOSE-HOUSE. 



136 



PRACTICAL FLORICFLTITEB. 




CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 137 

are about 3 feet from the walk, giving room enough from 
the glass to grow plants from 2 to 3 feet in height. We 
have used these benches exclusively for growing Roses in 
pots, but tliey may be used, of course, for any other plants 
requiring the same temperature as tlie Roses. At the end 
of the house to the north is placed the furnace pit and 
sheds, so that the other end is due South. This we think 
the best aspect for an equal span-roofed green-house. When 
it is a " half-span," then the long side should be due East 
the e7ids being North and South. The cost of each style 
is neaily similar and will be found estimated for the "half- 
span " style at page 131. Ventilation is given by " lift- 
ing sashes " along the roof on the East side of both kinds 
of green-houses by means of a patent ventilator. In this 
ventilator a jointed iron arm is fastened to each snsh, and 
the other end of the arm is attached to an iron shaft that 
runs horizontally the whole length of the house close to 
the roof. By means of a crank placed in a convenient 
position and proper gearing the shaft is made to revolve, 
and this acting upon the arms lifts the sashes simultaneous- 
ly. But very little exertion is required to move it, and 
the ventilators can w^ith the greatest ease be opened a 
mere crack or to their fullest extent. Either of these 
styles of span-roofed green-houses, would be more econom- 
ical to have the width 22 or 24 feet rather than 20, so 
that the centre bed for Roses might be wider. 

There are comparatively few varieties of Roses suitable 
for producing flowers in sufficient abundance in winter 
to make it profitable, and these few are such as in the 
summer months are by no means our finest ; but they 
are selected for winter, not for their developed flowers, but 
for their buds. Thus the Safrano, one of the most valued 
for its safiron yellow buds, is but semi-double. Those 
most valued by the New York florists are : 

Lamar que. — White, with a tinge of straw color in the 
center ; a vigorous grower, usually trained up the rafters. 



138 PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Tbousands of feet of green-house are devoted exclusively to 
this variety. 

Solfaterre. — A bright straw color, of growth similar to 
Lamarque, but more shy of flowering, and on this account 
grown only in limited numbers. 

James Sprunt, or Climbing A^rippina. — Rich dark 
crimson. 

SafranOt — Saffron yellow; abundant bloomer; of rich 
Tea odor ; the one grown next to Lamarque in greatest 
abundance. 

Isabella Sprunti — Exactly like Safrano, except in color. 
which is a bright canary yellow. 

A^rippina. — Rich deep crimson, wnth an occasional 
splash of white through the centre. 

La Phenix. — Deep shade of carmine; most abundant 
bloomer, with the rich fragrance of the damask or moss. 

Duchess de Brabant. — Color, light carmine shade; a 
very pleasing, lively color, and the most abundant bloomer 
of any yet named; Tea-scented. We value this variety 
so higlily, both for summer and winter flowering, that we 
have grown ten thousand plants of it alone this season. 

Hermosa. — Another favorite variety, with rosy pink 
flowers ; most prolific flowering variety. 

Pauline LabontCi — Light blush or cream color, similar 
in style of growth and shape of flower to La Pactole. 

Bon Silene. — A variety largely grown in the vicinity of 
Boston ; of a deep salmon shade of pink, of rich tea fra- 
grance, and of large size ; the bud often two inches long. 

Gloire de Dijon* — Large, full ; buff, shaded with salmon. 

Marshal IVieL — This we include from its distinctive col- 
or of deep yellow and its large and handsome bud more 
than for its productive qualities. It has now been tried 
sufiiciently to thoroughly test it, and from what we have 



CULTL'EE OF THE liOSE. 139 

seen we are inclined to think it will be retained as a first 
class forcing rose. 

The greatest pest we have to contend with in Rose cul- 
ture is mildew. Opinions as to its cause are varied and 
contradictory. The theory is that mildew being a fun- 
goid growth the seeds of which are ever present in the 
atmosphere, when a relaxed condition of the plant en- 
sues the minute seeds find a suitable place for their devel- 
opment in the enfeebled leaf. Therefore we believe that 
any thing that impedes the flow of the sap places the 
plant in that condition fitted to develop mildew. Thus 
we often see our Roses without a taint of mildew during 
all the winter and early spring months, until the hot, dry 
days of the middle or end of May dry the soil in the pots 
to such a degree that the plant wilts — the sap is impeded, 
and mildew follows. Or a door is left open and the frosty 
air fastens on the stems and leaves, congeals the sap, enfee- 
bles the plant, and though from an entirely opposite 
cause, the result is the same. 

I once had a most marked example of this kind. Early 
in April, we had an old-fashioned lean-to green-house 
filled with Roses in full leaf, in the very highest state of 
vigor. The house was some sixty feet in length and was 
ventilated by sliding down every alternate sash at the top. 
In ventilating on one occasion, the sashes had been neg- 
lected until so late in the evening that the Roses exposed 
to the air had become chilled by frost so that the young 
shoots hung down as if wilted ; as the green-house got heat- 
ed up they recovered, and to all appearance next morning 
looked none the worse for being frozen ; but in a week 
after, mildew appeared in a clearly defined square space of 
about 3x3 feet, following almost exactly in the line where 
the plants had been frozen. 

Had the sap been arrested by the roots getting dry in 
that condition of growth, no doubt the result would have 
been the same. 



140 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Like most other diseases, mildew is best met by preven- 
tion rather than cure, and for this reason ail care should 
be taken to avoid the extremes referred to, and, as far as 
possible, to avoid great variation of temperature. Sul- 
pluir is applied in various ways to destroy mildew, but will 
often fail if the disease has gained much headway. The 
best way is to use it mildly as a preventive. Tliis is done 
by boiling 3 lbs. of sulphur and 3 lbs. of lime in 6 gallons 
of water until it is reduced to 2 gallons ; allow tlie liquid to 
settle until it gets clear, then put it in a jar or bottle it for 
use. One gill of this is mixed in 5 gallons of water and 
syringed over the Roses in the evening. Applied in this 
weak state it does not injure the leaves, and yet has the 
effect of preventing mildew, if perseveringly attended to, 
as the seeds of mildew seemingly cannot vegetate in an 
atmosphere or in a soil impregnated with sulphur. 

Roses, when grown in pots, particularly in cold pits, 
are often much troubled by the common angle-worm. An 
effective means of destroying them is to slake a peck of 
lime in 50 gallons of water, and water the plants freely 
with the liquid after it has become clear. 



CHAPTER XX. 

CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA 

I much doubt if there is another chapter in this work in 
which so much interest will be taken by many gardeners as 
in this, for hundreds of them, entirely successful in all other 
operations, signally fiil with the Verbena. As it is 
known to thousands that in this matter we have always 
been successful, they will have interest in knowing what 
our peculiar mode of culture is that thus far has exempted 
as from the disease affecting this plant — known aa 



CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA. 141 

*' black rust," — and enabled us to grow it for nearly twenty 
years untainted by disease. I will make the starting- 
point the first of April. At that date take cuttings from 
healthy plants ; see that they are taken in the condition 
described in the Chapter on Propagation — that is, that 
they are in such a state that they will break on being bent. 
They will root fit to be potted off, in eight or ten days, 
and will be fine, healthy plants to put in the open ground 
in thirty days after. Verbenas are not at all particular 
about soil, provided it is not water-soaked; we have 
planted them on soils varying from almost pure sand to 
heavy clay, and, provided it was enriched by manure, there 
was but little diflference in the growth or bloom. Planted 
out in May, by August they will have spread to a dis- 
tance of three feet, the plants profusely covered with flow- 
ers and seed pods. Now at this time, say the middle of Au- 
gust, this profuse flowering and seeding seems to lessen the 
vitality of the plant and put it in the condition to invite 
the attack of the " black rust " producing insect. To sustain 
the vitality of the plant and recuperate its exhausted forces, 
we cut back the extremities of the shoots some six inches, 
in all plants from which we design to propagate, free the 
plants of decayed leaves, and thin out where too thick at 
the centre. Then we fork up the soil around each plant, 
adding a compost of equal parts of fresh soil and rotted 
m.anure to the depth of two or three inches. Young 
shoots, as they develop, root into this with avidity, pro- 
ducing a soft and healthy growth, which by the first 
or middle of October, gives as just the style of cutting we 
require. Now the process of propagation begins, Avhich 
may be carried on either in the propagating house, in the 
usual way, or by tlie saucer system, as before described ; but 
by whichever method the propagation is efi*ected, let me 
again mention the importance of taking the cutting in that 
succulent condition in which it will snap on being bent. 
Do not attempt to pot the old plant or the layers of the 



142 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 



Verbena, or even to take a shoot for a cutting which h as 
formed a root in the ground ; for in most cases the roots 
so formed are so low down that the shoot is hard and 
woody at that point, and wnll not be liicely to produce such 
roots as will give a healthy growth. It is by starting 
wrong m the Ml, and impairing the vitality of the plant, 
and placing it in an enfeebled state, that disease is invited. 

In the directions given in the Chapter on Propagation 
great importance is attached to the necessity of potting 
off cuttings immediately on being rooted. If this is nec- 
essary with any plant, it is especially so with the Verbena, 
as no plant is more susceptible of injury from allowing the 
roots to become elongated and hardened in the cutting 
bench. Cuttings thus neglected make hard, slim plants, 
which, even if they do escape the insect pest, are not likely 
to make thrifty plants. On potting the cuttings, they are 
placed in a green -house or frame, and shaded in the usual 
way for two or three days or as long as the condition of 
the weather may require. As soon as they have struck 
root in the soil of the pots, they should be kept cool and 
abundantly supplied with air by tilting up or letting down 
the sash. 

No fire heat need be given, except sufficient to keep 
them from freezing, and if a temperature can be sustained 
throughout the entire winter months ranging from 40° 
to 45°, at night, and not to exceed 10° higher during 
the day until the beginning of March, there is no doubt 
whatever of having a healthy and vigorous stock, provid- 
ing proper attention has been given to watering and to 
fumigation by. tobacco. Watering we do by force-pump 
and hose, as elsewhere described, drenching the plants 
thorouglily overhead by a sprinkler, whenever they show 
indications of being dry. 

Contmued fumigation is of the utmost importance in the 
culture of all plants under glass, but it is perfectly indis- 
pensable to the welfare of the Verbena. In all our Verbe- 



CULTTYATION OF THE VEKBENA. 143 

na houses we fumigate, on an average, two or three times 
each week ; we do not wait to see the aphis or green fly, 
but apply the antidote solely as a preventive. No omis- 
sion is so inexcusable as that of permitting plants to be 
injured by this insect. 

Althougli I have elsewhere stated (see chapter on In- 
sects) that the very minute one which produces th'j 
troublesome " black rust " on the Verbena seems invul- 
nerable to the fumes of tobacco smoke, yet I have a be- 
lief that our unremitting practice of fumigating may be, 
after all, the true reason of our exemption from its attack ; 
for although this insect may have the faculty of imbedding 
itself in the leaf on the approach of danger, its eggs, being 
stationary and exposed, may be destroyed by the action 
of the smoke ; at all events, we have repeatedly brought 
varieties of Verbena severely affected by the rust into our 
collection, which in a few weeks appear entirely free 
from the disease, showing that our treatment in some way 
or other destroyed the enemy. 

There is no question that this insect, so fatal to the 
health of the Verbena, is most active and destructive in a 
high temperature ; hence we find that whenever Verbenas 
are kept in a mixed green-house collection, where Fuch- 
sias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, etc., are grown (usually in 
night temperature of 55" or 60°), the Verbena becomes af- 
fected by black rust ; showing that its minute enemy is at 
work sapping its life-current. 

Verbenas, whether grown for sale or for private use, if we 
would have plants in fine healtli and vigor in May, should 
not be propagated sooner than January. To be sure, the 
" stock " plants, to produce the cuttings, must be raised 
previous, in October or November, but such plants become 
exhausted by spring and are infeiior to later propagations. 

In our own practice the necessities of our business re- 
quire us to put in an uniform number of cuttings every two 
weeks from November to April ; the last lot, which we put 



144 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 



off at the end of April, usually making the finest plants. 
The raising of Verbenas from seed is described in Chapter 
XY. 

It is useless to j^articularize the varieties of the Yer- 
bena, as the yearly improvement by new seedlings is 
such that those we designate as the finest to-day, Avill, 
perhaps, in five years be deemed unworthy of cultivation. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 

I know of no flower that is so generally admired, and 
that is yearly plant- 
ed with so much 
uncertainty of 
blooming as the 
Tuberose. The ama- 
teur plants his 
bulbs of Hyacinths, 
Tulips, or Gladio- 
lus, and is just as 
certain of a bloom 
folio wino- in due 
season as he is that 
the summer will 
follow the spring. 
But it is not so 
with his Tuberose 
bulbs ; unpleasant 
experience has too 
often told him that 
after selecting^ the 
sunniest spot in 
his flower bed, 
and planting with 
the greatest care, 




Fi^-. 47. —TUBEROSE BULB WITE SETS. 

instead of flowers he is rewarded 



CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 



145 



only by a mass of rank, green leaves. Now, as in 
most mishaps in amateur horticulture, the cause is a very 
simple one ; the knowledge in this case is easily imparted, 
and failure need never occur. In the selection of the bulbs, 
reject all that do not show signs of vegetation from the 





Fio;. 48.— SOUND BULB. Fii?. 49.— BULB DECAYED AT CENT! 



centre bulb. It is true that they will occasionally flower 
even when the centre does not show green, but it is always 
doubtful, even to us of the trade. Figure 34 shows a bulb 
as it is taken up by the cultivator in the fall — a large cen- 
tre bulb with several smaller ones, or " sets," attached. 



146 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

The large bulb only is that which produces the flower, 
and if that has rotted in the centre sufficient to destroy 
'the flower germ, it will not bloom. Figure 35 shows a 
perfect bulb cut longitudinally; Figure 36, one in which 
the centre has decayed. 

Now, in lifting the bulbs in fall, every bulb is then per- 
fect, that is, large enough to flower ; those figured are about 
the medium natural size. I am satisfied beyond all doubt 
that the cause of decay and consequent failure to flower 
in the Tuberose is its being kept in too low a temperature 
during winter. It is supposed, generally, that it is enough 
to keep it dry and free from frost, as we keep potatoes 
in a cellar. But unfortunate experience has demonstrated 
to me, by a loss of some thousands of dollars, that this is 
not enough ; the bulbs must be kept both dry and warm, 
from October until May. If they are allowed to remain for 
any length of time in a temperature less than 50°, the centre 
or flower germ will be destroyed, though the outward ap- 
pearance of the bulb to the uninitiated would be the same. 
For those who have green-houses, the best place to keep 
them is alongside the flue or hot water pipes ; for those 
who have not, the shelves in a closet of any well-warmed 
room will suffice. The Tuberose is now a plant of rising 
importance for market purposes. I have no doubt that 5 
million roots are grown annually in the vicinity of New 
York. The greater part of these are grown by the florists 
to supply the bouquet makers with this most important 
item in the construction of their baskets of flowers, bouquets, 
vases, etc., etc. Tuberose flowers are now produced 
nearly all the year round, and sell at wholesale from |1 to 
$10 per 100 florets, according to the season, the price 
being the highest during the holidays. Each spike aver- 
acres 20 florets or sin Me flowers, so that at some seasons 
the flowers of a single root of this common bulb produce 
12 at wholesale. 



CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 



147 



Cultivating the Bulbs,— Our mode is very simple. 
After the ground has been well manured and spaded, or 
plowed, lines are struck out one foot apart; the small 
bulbs or " sets " (see fig 37,) are then planted six inches 
apart, and at least/b^^r inches below the surface ; this we 
consider of great importance, as it tends to solidify the 
neck of the bulb, and thereby prevent 
the disposition to decay. Our time of 
l^lanting here is about the 1st of June, 
but as they do not begin to grow for 
nearly four weeks after planting, it is 
necessary to hoe and rake the ground 
once or twice before they come up, to 
prevent the growth of weeds, which 
would otherwise quickly choke them in 
their feeble state. The bulbs are matured 
by the end of October ; the tops are then 
cut off (but not too close,) and the roots 
at once placed in a warm and dry ]3lace. 

Producing^ Flowers. — To secure a conv 
tinuous bloom of the Tuberose, the first 
roots should be started in January, fii-st 
removing all side shoots or offsets, in 
a temperature not less than 65°, and 
if kept regularly not below that tem- 
perature, they will flower in May. Those 
which are wanted to flower outdoors, and which are of most 
interest to general readers, should be started in a green- 
house, hot-bed, or warm room, not sooner than the 1st of 
May, and planted out in the flower borders three or four 
weeks after ; thus treated, they will begin to bloom in Au- 
gust, and continue to bloom for two months. In warmer sec- 
tions of the country there is no necessity for this forward- 
ing treatment, as there the dry bulb planted out in May 
will flower freely during the autumn months. For a later 
succession of flowers, say for the months of November, 




Fii?. 50. 



148 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTURE. 

December, and January, the bulbs should be kept cliy, and 
planted by the first or middle of August. These, of course, 
must be grown in the hot-house or green-house, as the 
Tuberose is a plant requiring at all times a high tempera- 
ture. 

To give a gradual succession it has been our own prac- 
tice for the past four years to plant the dry bulbs on the 
green-house benches on July 20th, August 5th, and August 
20th, the last lot coming in about Christmas. 

Another plan now very extensively practiced by our 
New York florists, to produce flowers from February to 
May, to succeed and precede those planted from the dry 
bulbs, is to lift the strongest growing bulbs that can be 
selected from the patch in fall before frost. They are dug 
up carefully, first detaching all side shoots, so that a good 
ball of soil adheres to the root. They are then either 
planted in pots 7 or 8 inches in diameter, or planted at 
once on the benches of the hot-house in 6 inches of well- 
prepared soil, at about 5 or 6 inches apart. They are then 
shaded and freely watered for a few days, until they have 
struck out roots sufficient to sustain them without wilt- 
ing. So long as the weather continues mild, the protec- 
tion of the glass will be sufficiently warm for them at 
night; but on the approach of colder weather, firing must 
be resorted to, and continued, so that the temperature shall 
at no time fall lower than 50° at night, and the nearer 
that it can be kept to 60°, as an average, the better. It 
will be understood that under these benches on which 
the Tuberoses are planted run the pipes or flues, so 
that the temperature of the soil in which they are growing 
is usually 5 degrees higher than the atmosphere of the hot- 
house at night, which is one of the main features of suc- 
cess in forcing the Tuberose. Great care is necessary in 
airing, which should not be done until the atmosphere of 
the house is at 70°, and the nearer that point can be 
kept to during the day the better; above all things any 



CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 149 

continuance of a low temperature is to be avoided, as the 
Tuberose is a plant that succeeds only in a sub-tropical at- 
mosphere. When not grown in a house specially adapted 
for the purpose, the ordinary stove or hot-house will suffice. 
When the flower stem is developed, they should on no con- 
sideration be allowed to get dry at the roots, else a whole 
or part of the flower buds will shrivel up. Whether the 
bulb has been grown to flower in open air or forced in the 
hot-house, after it has once flowered it is of no further 
value as a flowering root ; the bulb having once flowered 
will not flower again, and the only value it has is in the 
oflsets which it may have formed. These may be planted 
out, as before described, to produce new bulbs for the suc- 
ceeding season. 

The cultivation of the Tuberose as a winter flowering 
plant has been practiced in this country only within the 
past six or eight years, and as yet only in five or six es- 
tablishments successfully. Many fail from the cause to 
which is due the failure of almost all floricultural operations 
— too great a variation of temperature required by the na- 
ture of the plant. Still the demand for flowers of such 
rare purity and fragrance is such that it will stimulate 
many others, doubtless, to exercise the necessary care in 
their culture and produce profitable results. 

The variety mainly grown is the double one, Folianthes 
tuherosa plena., but the single variety is very useful for its 
earliness, blooming in the open ground two weeks sooner 
than the double variety. A new variety, known as 
"Pearl," of very dwarf habit and of flowers nearly 
double the size of this older sort, will doubtless soon be 
exclusively grown. 

The Gladiolus may be forced in winter by the same 
methods as we recommend for the Tuberose. 



150 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

ORCHID CULTURE. 

[The following brief detail of Orchid culture is written by 
James Fleming, Jersey City Heights, N. J. whose success ic 
handling one of the largest and most valuable collections ^ 
in the vicinity of New York well warrants him in giving 
instructions on the subject.] 

It is only of late years that Orchids have been cultivated 
in this country, and it is even now rare to find a collection 
of more than a few dozen plants. This, no doubt, is from 
the idea entertained by many that they are very difficult 
to grow, but this is not by any means the case, as with 
favorable conditions they can be as easily grown as a 
Camellia or Azalea. As we begin to know more of their 
native habitats and the climate and conditions in which 
they grow, then we, no doubt, will find them more thor- 
oughly distributed through the country, for the Orchidaceas 
certainly embrace some of the most beautiful gems in the 
floral world. There are a few enthusiastic amateurs 
amongst us who deserve great credit for the trouble and 
expense they have incurred to enrich their collections and 
foster a taste for the cultivation of Orchids. 

It is entirely unnecessary to have a separate house for 
Orchids, as they can be grown very well with a general 
collection of stove plants where a temperature is main- 
tained at 60° to 80° or 90° in summer, and 55° to 70° in 
winter for the Indian varieties, and 50° to 75° in summer, 
and 45° to 60° in winter, for the South American ones. I 
could never see that a few degrees' difference either way 
did any injury to the plants, as long as the proper degree 
of moisture was maintained. The house ought to be 
shaded in summer. 

As the cultivation of the Indian and South American 
Orchids is the same, the only difference being in the tern- 



ORCHID CULTURE. 151 

perature, I will briefly state the mode of treatment where- 
by I have had the most success. 

When a tyro m the culture of EjDiphytal Orchids, I 
commenced by fastening the plants, as imported, upon 
blocks of wood and pieces of cork. While some did tolera- 
bly well, the greater part did not grow to my satisfiction. 
In our hot, dry weather it was almost impossible to keep 
up the proper degree of moisture and a free circulation of 
air. So I soon found that by placing them in perforated 
pots or baskets, I was enabled to keep the roots moist and 
give plenty of air ; by this treatment the plants began to 
improve daily. 

The best material I ever found for potting was a very 
fibrous kind of turf, found in a dry part of a fresh water 
swamp. It could be torn up in thin sheets or broken into 
blocks of any size. This, mixed with sphagnum, broken 
jiots, and charcoal in lumps, is the best mixture I ever 
tried. The plant should be well raised above the level of 
the pot or basket, so that no water may lodge around its 
neck, and the mixture built so as to hold it firmly in its 
place ; and to give a neat, fresh-like appearance, chop some 
green sphagnum up fine, and put a layer over the whole. 
Baskets and pots of various sizes and patterns may be used, 
square, octagonal, etc., as the fancy of the owner may dic- 
tate. The best material for the baskets is locust or red 
cedar, as they last long and are not apt to be attacked by 
insects. 

In potting Terrestrial Orchids, place them a little below 
the level of the pot (the same as any ordinary plant, and 
not raised as for the Epiphytal ones,) in a compost of rough, 
turfy loam, leaf mould, sand, and broken pots, and subject 
them to the same temperature as the Epiphytal species. 

Water and syringe early in the morning, so that the 
snn may soon dry the foliage. 

When the growing season is over,gradually lower the tem- 
perature, and decrease the Quantity of water ; during the pe- 



152 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



riod of rest use very little water, just enough to keep the 
pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling. The best period to rest Or- 
chids is from November to March. This will apply to the 
majority of species, but there will always be some whose 
season of growth and bloom will come in those months; 
those, of course, must be kept watered and growing. 

Very few insects infest Orchids, scale being the most 
troublesome, and the only cure I ever found was to wash 
the leaves and pseudo-bulbs well and frequently with 
whale oil soap. 

The following is a list of a few of the most showy and 
easily cultivated kinds. 

AERIAL OR EPIPHYTAL. 



INDIAN. 
iErides crispuru. 
" Fieldingii. 
. " odoratutn. 
Angrgecum bilobum. 
Ansellia Africana. 
Dendrobium chrysauthum. 
" Devonianum. 

" Farmerii. 

• nobile. 

" Pierardi. 

" pulclvellum. 

Miltonia spectabilis. 
Pbalo&nopsis araabilis. 

" grandiflora. 

*' Schillcriana. 

Saccolabium Blumei. 

" curvifolium. 

" guttatum. 

Trichopilia suavis. 
" tortilis. 

Vanda coerulea. 
*■' suavis. 
*' tricolor. 



SOUTH AMERICAN. 

Cattleya citrina. 
" crispa. 
" intei-media. 
" labiata. 
" Mossise. 
" Skinneri. 
Chj'sis bractescens. 
Epideiidium aurautiacum. 

" Yittellnum. 

Gongora atropurpurea. 
I^selia acuminata. 
" albida. 
" anceps. 
" Perrinii. 
" purpurascens. 
" supcrbieus. 
Ly caste Skinneri. 
Odontoglossum grande. 

" bastilabium, 

Oncidium leucocbilum. 
" luridum." 
" papiiio. 
Stanhopea Devoniensis. 
" insignis. 

" tigrina. 

Zygopetaluui Mackayi. 
" maxillara 



HOLLAND BULBS. lo^ 



TERRESTRIAL. 

Bletia Tankervillias. Cypripedium villosum. 

Calanthe veratrifolia. Peristcria data. 

" vestita. Phaius albus. 
Cypripedium barbatum. " maculatus. 

" caiidatum. " Wallichii. 

*' insigne. Uropedium Lindeni. 

" Stonei. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

HOLLAND BULBS. 

The Holland Bulbs, comprising the Hyacinth, Tulip, 
Crocus, Snowdrop, Jonquil, N^arcissus, Iris, and Frittil- 
laria, are all hardy in this section of the country, although 
it is always advantageous to cover them with three or 
four inches of short manure, refuse hops, or sawdust, as a 
protection from being too severely frozen, as this, in cold 
and heavy soils, may sometimes injure their flowering. 

All Holland Bulbs prefer a rich sandy soil, in preference 
to one of heavy clay. They are usually imported annual- 
ly, although, with the exception of the Hyacinth, they 
can all be grown and increased to advantage in our own 
climate. 

The bulbs are usually planted in the open ground in 
October, Hyacinths at distances of 9 inches apart. Tulips, 
Narcissuses, and Jonquils at 6 inches. Crocuses and Snow- 
drops, to produce a good efiect, at 3 inches. They are 
best grouped in beds of each sort by itself to show to ad- 
vantage. As soon as their flowering is over in spring, 
Verbenas or other bedding plants should be placed in the 
beds, as the bulbs are not sufficiently ripened to lift before 
June or July. When the leaves by becoming withered 
indicate the ripening of the bulbs, they should be lifted, 



154 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

dried, and stored in some cool but dry place, to be again 
planted in October. It is essential to lift up and dry all 
such bulbs, else they will grow meagerly the succeeding 
season. In Europe, Ranunculuses and Anemones are 
grown to great advantage, planted in the same manner as 
we plant Hyacinths and Tulips, but our winters are too 
severe for them, so that they are rarely seen in good con- 
dition, except when grown under the protection of a cold 
frame, and for this reason are but little cultivated. 

Nearly all these bulbs also may be grown as pot plants, 
for the green-house or parlor, particularly the Hyacinth, 
and as the treatment of them all is nearly alike, we will 
briefly give it. For pot culture the best bulbs should 
always be selected ; the soil used is about one part decom- 
posed cow or horse manure, to two parts sandy loam, 
well mixed by riddling through a coarse sieve. 

The pots used should be from 5 to 7 inches in diameter; 
the mould should be placed in them rather loosely to the 
rim, the bulb pressed down so that only about one-third of 
it remains above the top of the soil ; the pot is then struck 
smartly on a bench so as to give the soil the proper degree 
of firmness, which will bring it down to an inch or so be- 
low the rim of the pot. Water freely, when potted, to 
still further settle the soil. The pots should now be placed 
in some situation where it is cool and dark, so as to en- 
courage a strong development of roots before the bulb 
starts at the top; such a situation, may be formed by cov- 
ering the pots with four or five inches of sand in a cool 
cellar, under the stage of a green-house or in a cold vinery, 
still enveloping them in soil or sand. If none of these 
conveniences is at hand, the pots may be pitted in a 
trench in the open ground, covered over with soil, and 
sufficient litter placed above that to keep out the frost, 
so that they can be got at when wanted. Hyacinths thus 
treated will have made sufficient roots by the 1st of Octo- 
ber to admit of their being placed in the light by the middle 



HOLLAND BULBS. 155 

or end of JSTovember ; as they begin to grow, water should 
be freely given, so that the earth may be moistened to the 
bottom of the pot, for if stinted in water while growing, 
the flowers will be smaller and not brilliant in color 

HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. 

Dark-colored glasses are best, the roots being impatient 
of light. The bulb should be placed so as to barely touch 
the water. The glasses should be put in the dark until 
the roots reach the bottom, when they may be exposed to 
the light. The water should be changed once a week ; 
care also must be taken that they are not exposed to frost, 
else the glasses might be broken and the roots to some 
extent injured. Single Hyacinths are better adapted for 
glasses than double ones. 

The varieties of Hyacinth are as numerous as those of 
the Gladiolus, and it would be no help to the reader to 
specify them by their name ; the colors embrace many 
shades of red, blue, yellow, and white, in both the single 
and double sorts. 

■TULIPS. 

These, like the Hyacinth, have single and double varieties, 
but the single sorts are more extensively grown, being much 
handsomer than the double varieties. They are divided 
into three classes : Bizzares, having a yellow ground 
splashed with crimson or purple ; Hose, variegated with 
crimson, pink, or scarlet ; and Bi/Momen, marked with 
black, lilac, or purple. These classes are again divided in- 
to "flamed " and " feathered;" the flamed having a dark 
pointed spot, something like the flame of a candle, the 
feathered, a dark-colored edge round its petals, becom- 
ing lighter near the margin. The double varieties are 
Due Van 7 hoi, red and yellow ; Gold and Scarlet Foeony^ 
Tournesol, scarlet and yellow, Purple Crown, etc. 



156 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

CHAPTER XXIY. 

CAPE BULBS— VARIETIES • AND CULTURE. 
GLADIOLUS. 

Foremost among all " Cape Bulbs " (so called from be- 
ing natives of the Cape of Good Hope), stands the Glad- 
iolus. Perhaps no plant that we have in cultivation has 
made such an advance under the hands of the hybridizer 
within the past dozen years as this. We can well remem- 
ber the time when the species and varieties were confined 
to (r. cardmalis^ G. communis, G. hlandus, G. rmnosus, 
and Natdlenis, {oy psittacinus^) and also the advent of the 
then new hybrid Gandavensis, which may be said to be 
the forerunner of all the beautiful varieties we now possess. 
These varieties are now almost numberless, varying in ev- 
ery shade of their beautiful markings, which range through 
all degrees of scarlet, crimson, purple, carmine, rose, yel- 
low, and violet, down to white. It is useless to indicate 
varieties by name, as the annual improvements being made 
will possibly cause those which rank as the best of to-day 
to appear of inferior merit in two years hence. 

Gladioluses are of the easiest culture ; in this district, 
planted out the first week in May, they will be in bloom in 
July, and by making successive plantings every two weeks 
to the middle of July they can be had in perfection until 
the first of November. Although they are not at all par- 
ticular about soil, yet, if choice can be had, a sandy loam, 
peat, or a soil of decomposed leaves is better suited than 
a stiff clayey soil. In any soil the flowers will be larger 
and richer in color if the bed be well enriched with ma- 
nure. All bulbs of the Gladiolus will flower if over three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter ; but of course the larger 
will be likely to produce larger spikes of flowers. 



CAPE BULBS VARIETIES AND CtTLTURE. 157 

They should be taken up ns soon Jis the stems begin to 
wither in fall ; but should the stalk of the late plantings 
be yet green, the bulbs should be left adhering to the 
Btalk until dried, which will tend to ripen off the bulbs. 
They may be kept in winter under the stage of the green- 
house in a frost-proof cellar or closet, or, in short, in any 
place where potatoes can be kept with safety. 

AMARYLLIS. 

"Next to Gladiolus under this head may be named the 
Amaryllis. The bulbs may be planted in July, August, 
or September, (if in pots not less than eiglit inches in di- 
ameter), in rich, light soil. The flower spike will be de- 
veloped in October or ISTovember. They are best grown in 
pots in this latitude, as they are liable to be injured by 
fall frosts if left to flower in the open border. The plants 
should be kept growing for some mouths after flowering, 
so as to develop the bulb for future flowering ; but they 
should be dried off for some months previous to the time of 
planting. The species are : 

A. Belladonna. (Belladonna Lily), pale pink. 
A. aulica. — -Flowers large, green and scarlet. 
A. blanda. — Flowers immensely large ; whitish. 
A. purpurea* — (Yallota), dwarf, bright scarlet. 
A. Tlttata. — Striped, rose and white. 
A. formosissima* — (Jacobean Lily), rich crimson. 

NERINE. 

The following, with other species, are plants requiring 
treatment similar to the Amaryllis, and well worthy of 
general cultivation : 

IVerine undulata, (carmine). 

N. curvifolia, (scarlet). 

N. Sarniensis. — (Guernsey Lily) (crimson). 



158 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



IXIAS. 



A pretty genus of bulbs, of easy culture ; their season 
of rest is the dry summer months. The bulbs should be 
planted eight or ten in a pot in October, and kept in a green- 
house or cold frame, where they will flower abundantly 
in February, March, or April, according to the variety. 
There are numerous species, of which we name a few of 
the most distinct. 

I* cristatai — Rich shade of rose. 

I. capitata. — White and blue. 

I. COnica* — Orange. 

I. crocata. — Orange yellow. 

I. maculata. — Spotted. 

I. patens. — Purple. 

I. Tiridiflora. — Green, yellow and black. 

SPARAXIS. 

A genus allied to Ixia, requiring similar treatment in 
every respect. We name six of the most distinct. 
S. anemonsBflora. — White. 
S. bicolor. — Blue and yellow. 
S. blanda. — Deep rose. 
S. grandiflora. — Large purple. 
S. tricolor. — Yellow, purple and crimson. 
Si versicolor. — ^Purple and orange. 

ANOMATHECA CRUENTA AND JUNCEA. 

These, if planted in pots in January and February, and 
turned out in the open borders in May, will bloom abund- 
antly during the early summer months. 

ORNTTHOGALTJM AUREUM. 

This species of Ornithogalum is orange and black, and, 
with many other species, may be treated like the preced- 



CAPE BTJLBS VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 159 

ing. Tliey are interesting and attractive plants, the cot- 
ors being principally white, yellow, or orange, occasionally 
marked with brownish-black spots in the centre of the 
flower. 

LACHENALIAS. 

Lachenalia tricolor (yellow, red and green), L. pendula 
(yellow and red), L. quadricolor (yellow, red, purple, 
and green), with many other species of similar color, are 
pretty little bulbs, with flower stems rarely exceeding nine 
inches in height. They are to be potted in October or 
November, and kept in green-house temperature, and they 
will bloom from January to March. 

OXALIS. 

A varied and extensive genus, embracing annuals, bulbous 
and tuberous rooted plants, and even shrubs. The best 
known and most beautiful of the genus is 0. versicolor. 
The flowers of this variety are beautiful in the extreme, 
combining white, yellow, rose and crimson. The bulbs, 
which are quite small, should be planted an inch apart, in 
pots six or seven inches in diameter, in September or Octo- 
ber, in the soil previously named for all bulbs of this de- 
scription. As soon as the bulbs have well started to grow, 
they should be freely watered, and in ordinary green-house 
temperature will flower profusely from December to April. 
0, ca?iescens (purple), 0. cuneifolia (white), 0. Jlava 
(yellow), and O. multiflora (lilac), require similar treat- 
ment. The summer flowering or bedding varieties, of 
which there is a large number, should be kept dry in win- 
ter and planted out in May, and they will bloom in profu- 
sion during the summer and fall months ; of this class we 
name 0. Bowiei (crimson), O. carnosa (yellow), 0, 
criapa (white), 0. floTibunda (rose), O. glabra (purple), 
and 0. hirta (lilac). 

BABIANA. 

A genus somewhat resembling the Ixias in the form of 



160 PRACTICAX, FLORICULTURE. 

the flower, but having in most of the species downy leaves ; 
the treatment in all respects is similar to Ixias or Spar- 
axis. The species are numerous. The following six are 
named as types : JB. bicolor (blue and white), JB. ruhro- 
cyanea (blue and crimson), B. spathacea (light blue), B, 
bulphiirea (yellow), .B. tubata (red and yellow), JB, 
Thunhergii (white and red). 

H^MANTHUS. 

A genus allied to the Amaryllis, with bulbs of immense 
size, producing flowers of all shades from white to crim- 
son, but rather coarse in outline. Culture same as for the 
Amaryllis. 

TIGRIDIA, OR TIGER FLOWER. 

This is not a " Cape Bulb," being a native of Mexico, 
but as it resembles in its habits many of that class we 
place it here. Like tlie Gladiolus, successive plantings 
every two weeks from May to July will give a continuous 
bloom during the summer months until cut oflf by frost in 
autumn. Its treatment in other -respects may be that of 
the Gladiolus, only that greater care is necessary in keep- 
ing the bulbs m winter. After being dried, put them in 
some dry place, not too hot, where they will not freeze. 

The Tiger Flower is one of the most beautiful of all bulbs, 
and although it has been in cultivation for nearly three- 
quarters of a century, has never been so generally grown 
as it deserves to be, probably from the difliculty of keep- 
ino; the bulbs in winter. 

Its gaudy, tulip-like flowers are yellow, spotted with 
crimson, orange, spotted violet red, and varying shades of 
these colors in the difierent sorts, 

Tigridia conchiflora. Tigridia lutea. 

Tigridia pavonia. Tigridia violacea. 

6^ 



CULTURE OF WUSTTEE-FLOAVEPaXG PLANTS. 161 

CHAPTER XXV. 

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 

The demand for flowers in winter has steadily kept pace 
with the supply, even in the city of New York, where per- 
haps half a million of dollars bns been invested in stock 
and in green-houses for that special purpose within the past 
live years. Perhaps no place surpasses, if it equals this, in 
the extent of its flower business or in the systematic man- 
ner in which it is carried on. The variety of plants used 
for this purpose is not so extensive as might be supposed ; 
the following, comprising the leading sorts, are named in 
the order of their value and importance for cut flowers. 

1st. Camellias, Carnations, Violets ; 2nd. Roses, Tube- 
roses, Double Primroses; Srd. Bouvardias, Stevias, Eu- 
patoriums; 4th. Heliotropes, Poinsettia pulcberrima, Eu- 
phorbia jacquiniflora ; 5th. Stock Gillies, Begonia Sander- 
sonii and others, Fuchsia speciosa; 6th. Jessamines, Bal- 
sams, Bignonias of all sorts ; 7th. Hyacinths, Mignonette, 
Sweet Alyssum ; 8th. Azaleas, Heaths and Ageratum. 

We will give descriptions of the manner of growing the 
plants above enumerated, which will be more or less ex- 
tended as the importance of the variety seems to require. 

CAMELLIAS. 

Camellias are the most important of all flowers used in 
the construction of baskets or bouquets, and hence are 
placed first on the list. They are now grown to an 
extent truly surprising for that purpose in all our large 
cities and their surrounding neighborhoods. Philadel- 
phia, until recently, was the great Camellia mart, 
but of late years two or three establishments in the 
vicinity of 'New York are making such rapid strides 
that the Philadelphia florists cannot long compete with 
those of New York. 



162 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

The advance of the 'New York establishments is due, 
without doubt, to their more rapid manner of propaga- 
tion. While the Philadelphia florist contents himself with 
the slow but sure practice of inarching, the New York 
Camellia-grower is making nearly a do'»:en plants to his 
one, by the method, equally safe to him, of grafting. 

The process of inarching the Camellia, or grafting by 
approach, is usually performed in July, by slicing ofi" a 
thin portion of the stock and a corresponding portion of 
the variety to be inarched. The slice pared off should 
be deep enough to take a portion of the wood off with the 
bark, and of about two inches in length ; the parts should 
be so joined that at least one side shall closely meet, and 
there be tied moderately firm, to keep them in place 
until they have grown together. 

If done in July, the part inarched may be cut from the 
parent stem in October. 

Grafting the Camellia, in our opinion, is just as much 
an improvement over inarching as growing a grape-vine 
or rose from a cutting is over the ungardener-like practice 
of growing it from layers. I am aware that in many hands 
the grafting of the Camellia has proved a failure, not so much 
due to anything wrong in the way the mechanical part 
of the operation was performed as to the wrong time it 
was done. The best time in our climate to graft the Ca- 
mellia is from the 15th of August to the 15th of September ; 
at such times the sap is in just the right condition to form 
the proper callosity to cause an adherence of the parts. 
Figure 38 shows the operation, which is of the simplest 
kind ; the main point to be looked to being the accurate 
junction of the parts, at one side at least, and careful tying 
up, to keep the graft in place. After the operation, the 
next point of importance is the place in which the plants 
are put. It will be understood that the graft is in some 
respects analogous to a cutting, being a detached part of a 
plant with nothing to support it as yet, and that the same 



CLLTUKE OF THE CAMELLIA. 



163 



points to be observed in the rooting of a cutting must be 
attended to in the graft ; hence we place them in a position 
where they will be safe from a high temperature and a dry- 
atmosphere, which would be as quickly fatal to the graft 
as to the cutting. The best place, then, for Camellias in 
process of grafting is in a shaded frame or green-house, 
where the lowest temperature j^ossible at that season can 




Fig. 51. — GRAFTING THE CAMELLIA. 



be kept without allowing a current of air to play directly on 
the plants. Where the operation is done extensively, a 
frame is made inside tlie green-house in which the plants 
are placed for the purpose of avoiding currents of air. 

It is quite a nice point to regulate the due proportion of 
water ; as the stock is partially cut down, with but few 
leaves left to elaborate the sap, it follows that only as 
much water should be given as will keep the plants from 
becoming too dry ; for this reason, if there is danger to be 
apprehended from rain or other sources of moisture, the 



164 PIIACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

pots are laid on their sides, to prevent the soil from getting 
excessively wet. 

The stocks on which the Camellia is inarched or graft- 
ed are raised from cuttings of the single or strong-grow- 
ing double varieties. Many of the double sorts make as 
good plants raised from cuttings as by being grafted. 
This is not the case with tlie double white, which is the 
most valuable of all for winter flowers. The cuttings are 
made from the ripened young wood, and are treated in 
the usual w^ay, (See chapter on Propagation.) 

The Camellia is not at all particular as regards soil, and, 
may be seen luxuriating in those of very different charac. 
ters. The great points are a luimid atmosphere, a temper- 
ature in winter not exceeding 50°, in summer w^eather 
keeping them out of doors or in the green-house, and partial 
protection from the full rays of the sun. 

Large numbers are now being planted out in green- 
houses specially erected for the purpose ; in this way they 
grow with great luxuriance, and the flowers are usually 
finer than when grown in pots. Caution must be used 
to not stimulate a second growth in summer by undue 
watering, else they may make another growth to the des- 
truction of tlie flower buds. The Camellia cannot safely 
be " forced " to produce early flowers by applying heat in 
fall or winter, but to have flowers early the forcing must 
be done in spring, while the plants are making their growth ; 
at this time they will stand a temperature of 60 or 65 de- 
grees at night with safety. Kept warm at this season, 
the buds set early, and produce early flowers in fall and 
winter. By thus forcing in spring for two seasons, the 
greater part of the croj^ of Camellia flowers will be ob- 
tained by the holidays, at wdiich season they are most 
valued. 

Of the varieties used for cut flowers the whites are those 
prized most ; of these we have Double White and Fim- 
briata as the early sorts, and Candidissima as the late. 



OUI-TITRE OF T[TF. CARNATION. 165 

Of the other white sorts, none flower abundantly enough 
to make them profitable, except Lady Hume, which, how- 
ever, is tinged with blusli. It is somewhat singular that 
though the Camellia has been extensively cultivated for 
thirty years, we have no white varieties originating 
in all that time that have equalled these four sorts in 
their peculiar qualities. Of colored sorts we have some 
hundreds ; prominent among them and of difierent styles 
of marking and color, are Imbricata, crimson and white, 
Landrethii, bright rose; Benneyii, crimson striped white; 
Wilderii, scarlet crimson; Sacco Nora, pink marbled 
rose ; Downing, deep carmine blotched white ; Duchess 
of Orleans, striped pink and white; Conspersa, carmine 
striped; Reine des Fleurs, dark crimson. 

In market the value of the flowers and even plants of 
the white sorts is double that of the colored. The average 
wholesale price of White Camellia flowers in New York 
from December to April may be $15 per 100; colored 
sorts do not bring half that price, and are in little demand. 

CARNATIONS. 

In the first edition we named the Carnation as next in 
value to the Camellia as a winter-flowering jolant, but 
since then the Rose has become the leading flower, even 
surpassing the Camellia in popularity. The Carnation is 
still grown by us in very large quantities. 

The cultivation of the Carnation is very simple. It is 
rooted from cuttings at any time from October to A[)ril, 
and as the plant is almost hardy, it may be planted out 
with safety in the open ground in early spring as soon as 
cabbage, lettuce, or any other plant of that nature. Many, 
for want of this knowledge, keep Carnations in the green- 
house or pits until such time as tender plants are set out 
in May, thereby not only having the useless trouble of 
taking care of them, but depriving them of six weeks of a 
season well adapted to their growth. 



166 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

They are best planted out in beds of six rows, nine 
inches apart, and the same distance between the plants, 
with eighteen-inch alleys between the beds. The Carna- 
tion is very impatient of a wet soil, and care should be 
taken that the land be made dry by draining or otherwise. 
As the Carnations grow they throw up flower shoots, which 
must be cut off all through the season, until about the 1st 
or 15th of September. If the plants are wanted for winter 
flowering, this cutting back of the flower shoots induces a 
dwarf and stocky growth, which is very desirable in the 
Carnation. If they are grown in large quantities for win- 
ter flowering, by far the best way is to plant them on the 
benches of the green-house, at about the same distance as 
they were growing outside, any time in October ; but if only 
a few are required, to mix in with a general collection of 
plants, it is more convenient to grow them in pots, so that 
they may be moved about as may be necessary. Of the 
varieties grown, though we have some hundreds, as in 
the case of Roses, we have only a few suited for winter 
flowering. Of these, so far, the most productive is La 
Purite, a deep carmine variety; next, a variegated variety 
of the preceding. Among whites, Maimie and De- 
graw take the lead. In yellows, we have Astoria and 
De Fontana, but these fall far short of the others in pro- 
ductiveness of flowers. 

The flowers of La Purite and other colored sorts sell in 
New York at |2 per 100, the whites usually at $3 per 100. 
Even at these low prices they are a fairly profltable crop, 
as the bulk of the flowers is given previous to the middle 
of January, when the forced plants, being of but little use, 
are usually thrown out to make room for other plants. Al- 
though the Carnation is nearly a hardy plant and may be 
kept anywhere in winter in a cold green-house or pit, even 
if occasionally slightly frozen, yet it is also susceptible of 
being forced freely. We usually keep our houses, when 
we are forcing for flowers, at from 50° to 60° at night. 



CULTURE OF THE VIOLET, 167 

VIOLETS. 

The demand for Violet flowers during the winter 
months in all our large cities is yearly increasing in a 
wonderful degree. For the New York market alone it ia 
estiiuated that two acres, or nearly 100,000 square feet, of 
glass is now used for growing Violets alone ; some grow- 
ers make it an exclusive business and grow nothing 
else. It is not always a success with every one attempt- 
ing it ; hence the price has kept steadily up to the highest 
rates of past years. To those who are successful, the busi- 
ness is always a profitable one. The following brief but prac- 
tical notes are from Messrs. Norton Bros., of Dorchester, 
Mass., who have been among the most successful of any in 
the trade in forcing Violets during the winter months. 

" The variety used is tlie double blue Neapolitan. We 
separate the plants to one good crown, with roots, and 
plant out in the open ground about the 20th of April, at 
distances of about one foot each way. Nothing is done 
to them until the first week in September, except to keep 
them well hoed and clear of weeds. They are then 
thinned out to six or eight crowns, selecting such as are 
the strongest and taking oif all the runners and weak 
shoots, the principle being exactly the same as in preparing 
good stools of strawbeiTies for fruit. About the last week 
in September the plants are dug up with balls and planted 
on the shelves of the green-house in six or eight inches of 
well-enriched, fresh loam. 

Shading and watering are necessary if the weather is 
clear and dry, and, until the end of October, air should be 
given freely. The temperature at night should average 
not more than 50 degrees. As the plants begin to 
grow, all yellow leaves, weeds, and runners, should be 
carefully removed, so as to admit air and liglit to the 
flowers. From a green-house 75 feet long with a table or 



168 



PRACTICAL, FLORICULTURE. 



V 



bench room of 8 feet wide, we sold last year our crop of 
Violets in Boston at the following rates : 

October averaged $4.25 per day, price, 75c. per 100. 



N'ovembei- 


u 


4.75 


December 


u 


5.25 


January 


a 


G.OO 


February 


a 


8.75 


March 


a 


10.25 



$1.00 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.00 



The aggregate for six months exceeding $1,000." 

This Avas a most excellent result, and the croj) would 




I 



Fia: 52.— KING OF violets. 



liave paid well at half these rates, which, however, are 
quite double those of New York. Besides, it will be ob- 



CULTURE OF THE TIOLET. 169 

served that the date only extended to March, after which 
the glass, no doubt, was employed nearly equally well by 
Messrs. Norton in the growing of bedding plants, to meet 
their sales of such articles in May. 

There are quite a number of varieties of sweet Yiolets, 
but the double blue Neapolitan thus far seems the one 
most suitable for forcing. The other varieties we name 
in the order of their merit. 

Marie Louise. — Double blue, much darker and larger 
than the Donble Neapolitan, equally fragrant and abund- 
ant in blooming. It flowers somewhnt earlier in the fall, 
and is rather more impatient of artificial heat. In cold 
frames, kept so that they do not freeze, it gives abund- 
ance of bloom until the holidays. 

Schccnbrun. — Single blue, very prolific. 

King of Violets. — Very large double blue flowers, ono 
inch in diameter. 

Queen of Violets, — Blush white, very double. 

Double White Neapolitan. — Double white. 

ROSES. 

Our system of forcing Roses for winter will be found in 
the chapter on Rose culture. We will merely refer to the 
prices paid and the relative value of the Rose as a profit- 
able plant for that purpose. The price ranges from $3 per 
100 buds in November until Christmas, at which date, 
and until the holidays are past they average $8 per 100, 
but attain fall off to $4 or 15, at which rates they continue 
until May or June. It will be understood that these are 
the wholesale rates ; at retail they bring nearly treble. 

TUBEROSES. ' 

The methods of forcing will be found fully detailed in 
the chapter on tlie Tuberose, and we will merely say here 
that in our own experience the Tuberose, as a plant to force 
for winter sale, has proved one of the most profitable of all 



170 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTUKE. 

that we have tried for that purpose. The crop, even at 
what may be termed the low rate of $4 per 100 florets, 
has netted us $1,000 for one of our 11x100 feet struc- 
tures, and that, too, during December, from dry roots 
planted in August. 

DOUBLE WHITE CHINESE PEIMEOSE. 

This ranks high a^ a winter flowering plant, being pro- 
ductive in a wonderful degree, as many as a thousand 
florets often being picked from one plant. It is of easy 
culture during the fall, winter, and spring months, but re- 
quires careful handling during summer. We find it 
thrives best in summer in a cool green-house, having the 
sashes lightly painted with whitewash, — say from June 1st 
to November 1st ; but as fall advances, the whitewash 
should be partially rubbed oflT, to accomodate the lessened 
force of the sun's rays at that season. By the 1st of Novem- 
ber it should be all cleaned oflT. It is always grown in pots 
of a size to correspond to the size or degree of vigor of the 
plant. The soil used contains about one half part leaf 
mould'or decayed refuse hops. It being a very fine rooted 
plant it requires the mechanical condition to be soft and 
easily penetrated by its thread-like roots. It may be grown 
in a temperature varying at night from 50 to 60 degrees. 
It is usually propagated by dividing the roots, though this 
is but a slow way of increase, and by no means so well fitted 
to make healthy plants, as by making cuttings of the side 
shoots in the usual way. Cuttings taken off in March will 
root in four weeks, and by fall, with ordinary care, make 
plants large enough to prodnce an average of 500 florets 
during the winter. 

The average price for the winter is fifty cents per 100 
florets. There are now some four or five double colored 
varieties, with colors ranging from light rose to crimson ; 
they are yet, however, quite scarce here. Their culture 
and propagation are identical with that of the double white. 



CULTURE OP THE BOUVARDIA. 171 

BOTTVAHDIAS. 

Bouvardias are grown in immense quantities, occupying 
an area nearly as large as that of the monthly Carnations 
in our green-houses. They are mainly propagated by 
pieces of the roots (see Propagation) in April, and when 
these have thrown up a growth of 2 or 3 inches they are 
potted in two-inch pots and planted out in the open 
ground at a distance of 9 or 10 inches apart, in the latter 
part of May. Some of the varieties, such as Hendersonii 
and Wilsonii, being " sports," that is, what Darwin calls 
"bud variations," seem to have the variation in the shoots 
and flowers only, and not extending to the roots ; hence in 
the case of Hendersonii, which is a sport from the Car- 
mine variety Hogarth, but with almost white flowers, if 
we propagate it from pieces of the root the flowers will be 
of the carmine color of the oris-inal Hog-arth. 

In such cases, to perpetuate these rare and valuable va- 
rieties, recourse must be had to propagation by cuttings, 
which is best done, however, from June to September, as 
the Bouvardia, being a hot-house plant, grows, and de- 
velops roots most freely in a high temperature. The plants 
that have been put out in the open ground in May will 
have grown to a fine, bushy form by September 1st, if due 
attention has been given to nipping off the tops every two 
weeks during summer. By this date they should be taken 
up and potted ; if possible, they should be lifted with balls 
of earth adhering to the roots, as they wilt very easily, 
and the plants require great care in lifting. In any 
case, it is necessary to shade and freely water for six or 
seven days before exposing them to full sun. They had 
better be stood in the open ground or in a cold frame, after 
being potted, rather than put in a green-house, as it is very 
necessary that they be fully exposed to light and air for 
as long a time as j)ossible, before placing them in their 
winter quarters in the green-house. They should be put 



172 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



into the green-house, or some jDlace where they can be 
sheltered by sashes, before tliere is clanger to be appre- 
hended from frost, as theBouvardia is a very tender plant, 
and will be injured by a very slight degree of frost. They 




Fig. 53. — BOUVARDIA HENDERSONII. 

may either be grown in pots, or planted out from the pots 
on to the benches, as we do witli Carnations and many 
other things. Our own practice, as we liave before said, 
is to set all such plants out in the benches, as the flowers 



STEVIAS AXD EUPATORItTMS. 173 

produced are much finer, owing to their having a more 
regular condition of moisture at the roots ; besides, this 
gives a greater area for the roots to run in. We have 
said the Bouvardia is a hot-house plant; therefore if flowers 
are wanted in the early part of Aviuter, the temperature at 
nioht should rano-e from 55 to 60 deorrees. The leading 
varieties of Bouvardia are, 
Uogarthi — Deep carmine. 

" Ileadersonii.— French wlnte. Fio-ure 40. 
Leiantha* — Scarlet, yellow anthers. 
" floribllMa. — Orange scarlet. 

" grandifiora. — Flame color, very large. 

" splendeiis. — Crimson scarlet. 

JasmSnotdes. — Pure white. 

Davidsoni, — Pure white, most valuable. 

Nothing that is grown is more productive of flowers, 
and a house filled with the difierent varieties in full bloom 
has a dazzling effect. 

The price paid by the trade averages about 81.50 per 
100 trusses. 

STEVIAS AXD EUPATORIUMS. 

Stevias and Eupatoriums are used for winter, and are 
white-flowering plants, of no particular beauty in them- 
selves, but admirably adapted from their feathery-like 
sprays, for mixing in with bright-colored flowers. They 
are of easy propagation, and being of rampant growth, 
had better always be grown in pots throughout the sum- 
mer — plunging the pots to the rim in the usual way, to 
save watering. They can all be grown to flower in a low 
green-house temperature, and as many of them bloom 
rather early in the winter, every expedient is used to keep 
them as cold as possible, without freezing. 

Stevia COmpacta flowers during November. 

Stevia serrata flowers in December. 



174r PRACTICAL FLOKICULTURK. 

Elipatorium arboreiim flowers from Xovember to Jan- 
uary, by retarding portions in cold frames. 

Eupatorhilll sallcifoIiEira flowers throughout January ; 

Elipatorium Clcgans from February to March. 

The flowers rate at about the same price as Bouvardia. 

HELIOTROPES. 

The manner of growing the Heliotrope for winter flowers 
is nearly identical with that of the Stevia or Eupatorium, 
during the summer months ; only, like the Bouvardia, it 
requires heat to bring the flowers out in profusion in win- 
ter. The varieties best adapted for forcing are : 
Jane Mcsmer, Ocwiata, 

Boule de M'lge^ Surprise, 

The Standard. Elc^antissima. 

The Heliotrope flowers without intermission during the 
entire season, if kept growing. 

Value about the same as the Bouvardia. 

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA. 

The Poinsettia pulcherrima is grown from cuttings of 
the green or of the ripened wood in April or May, and 
shifted as required during the summer, plunging the pots 
in beds in the open ground. It must be placed in winter 
qTiarters before the weather has become cold enough to 
chill it, as it is a tender tropical plant, and requires a hot- 
house temperature of not less tlian 60° for its full develop- 
ment. 

Grown in this heat, it is a plant of the most gorgeous 
beauty, the bracts or leaves surrounding the flower aver- 
aging, on well-grown plants, one foot in diameter; grown 
as a hot-house plant, it is in full perfection at the holidays, 
and is now largely used for decoration. Many thousand 
heads are sold in New York annually, at an average of 
$25 per 100. 



FUCHSIAS AND JASMIl^ES. 175 

Euphorbia jaquiniflora and splendens are plants of the 
same family as Poinsettia and require similar treatment in 
all respects. The former, from its style of growth, is much 
used for wreathing, but neither of them are as yet exten- 
sively grown. 

BEGONIAS — OF SORTS. 

The Begonias cultivated for winter blooming have 
drooping Fuchsia-like flowers of diiFerent shades from 
white to scarlet, and are used to a considerable extent as 
a " fringe flower " for sides of baskets and vases. San- 
dersonii and Fuchsioides are the best, having bright 
6carlet flowers produced in great abundunce, Carnea, a 
rich pink, and Marmorata, a flesh-colored sort, are also 
desirable. 

FUCHSIAS. 

There are but few varieties of Fuchsias adapted for 
continuous blooming in winter, but these are very 
desirable, and whether grown as ornamental specimens 
for the conservatory or for cutting for flowers, they are 
much valued. 

The best three in our experience are F. bianca margin- 
ata, a white-sepaled variety with crimson corolla ; F. spe- 
ciosa, flesh-colored sepals with scarlet corolla ; and F. ser- 
ratifolia, greenish sepals with bright orange scarlet corolla. 
This last is of a particularly bright and unique color, difler- 
ing entirely from all other Fuchsias. Two-year-old plants 
bloom in the greatest profusion, plants one foot in diame- 
ter giving upwards of 100 flowers, which are much 
esteemed for their rare color. 

JASMINUM GRANDIFLOEUM. 

This is grown to the best advantage by permanent plant- 
ing out in the green-house, and training to a rafter or ti"el- 



176 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

lis. Its pure white flowers and delicious fragrance make 
it much prized at all seasons. 

DOUBLE BALSAMS. 

If sown in August and potted into or 7-inch pots, 
ill light, vvarm hot-houses, these will flower until the holi- 
days 

BLINOXIA VENUSTA AND JASMIISTOIDES. 

These are ta-een-house climbers, which only do well as 
permanent rafter plants, usually not flowering until they 
are two or three years old ; by that time, however, they 
usually cover the rafters to a length of 20 or 30 feet. 13. 
venusta is bright orange; B. jasminoides is purple and 
white, and its flowers are formed in immense clusters and 
are extensively used during winter. The colors of both, 
although entirely difierent, are also unlike our usual colors 
of flowers. 

HYACINTHS. 

Hyacinths are used quite extensively in the late winter 
months, but are not generally obtainable in good condi- 
tion before February, as, to give them justice, they re- 
quire to be kept a considerable time at a rather low tem- 
perature to form their roots. Potted in September or Oc- 
tober and plunged so as to exclude the bulb from the 
light — in a cellar or under the stage of the green-house, or 
any similar place — they will form roots in abundance in six 
or eight weeks, when they may be removed and placed oa 
the stage of the green-house to flower. 

MIGNONETTE AND SWEET ALYSSUM. 

Sown in August in a cold frame and thinned out so 
that the plants will stand 6 or 8 inches apart, and left 
without the covering of the sash until frost is expected in 
September or October, these will flower abundantly until 



AZALEAS AND HEATHS. 177 

January, if covered up by sash and mats so as to exclude 
the frost, or they may be sown in August or September 
and grown in pots and flowered in a cold green-house 
during the winter months. 

AZALEAS. 

These are grown to a considerable extent as specimen 
green-house plants, propagated from the young wood in 
March ; potted and planted out in the open ground in May 
they make fine plants by fall, but most of the varieties do 
not bloom freely until the second year. The Azalea is a 
plant having very fine roots, and consequently requires a 
soil composed largely of leaf mould or peat to grow to the 
best advantage. There are now several hundred sorts, 
many of them of great beauty. They are not considered a 
suitable plant for bouquets, being too loose and flimsy in 
texture, but are used to some extent in baskets and vases of 
flowers, particularly the compact and white flowering va- 
rieties. 

HEATHS. 

A few of the free-growing winter flowering varieties of 
Heaths are well fitted for bouquets; of these Erica gracilis 
(carmine,) JE. persaluta-alha^ E. vernalis (pink,) and E. 
acifoea (white) are the best. They are best grown from 
cuttings of the young wood in March, and if planted out 
in the open ground in May, in light, sandy loam, will make 
plants of a size large enough to flower in winter. They 
are not extensively used however, being less profitable 
than many other things. The Heath is justly considered 
as one of the finest of all hard-wooded green-house plants 
in Europe, but most of the varieties are very difficult to 
grow in our hot summers, so that all those who have 
attempted to imitate the splendid specimens seen in 
the Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh or Dublin, or at the 
Ciystal PaUce of London, have completely failed. 



178 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTUKE. 

PLANTS USED FOR FOLIAGE. 

In the formation of cut flowers into bouquets, etc., the 
leaves form an indispensable part. In trimming the edges 
of baskets, Camellia leaves are much used, also Cissus dis- 
color, a climbing hot-house plant, with brownish-crimson 
leaves splashed with wliite; it requires a temperature of 
at least 60 degrees in winter, and never develops its rich 
coloring unless at a high temperature. Another most 
graceful plant, now very extensively used for its foliage, is 
MyrsipJiyllum, asparagoides (Smilax) ; it is unsurpassed 
for all kinds of floral decorations, whether for the person 
or in adding grace to floral ornaments for the table or 
room. Its leaves, or what passes for leaves, are small and 
shiny and attached to very delicate wavy stems, and have 
the quality of retaining their firmness for a long time 
without wilting. The plant is raised from the seed, or 
the roots may be purchnsed from dealers. The root con- 
sists of a cluster of fleshy tubers which throw out several 
slender steins, which, if furnished with supports, will 
climb to the height of 20 feet. Near our large cities 
houses are devoted ex,clusively to the cultivation of 
"Smilax" — the roots being planted in boxes upon the 
ground and the stems trained by strings up to the rafters. 
Rose, Lemon, and Apple-scented Geraniums are used with 
flowers in making up bouquets. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

Fashion rules in flowers the same as in all other mat- 
ters of ornamentation, and for the past tw^o seasons — 1872 
and 1873 — flowers of the Lily of the Valley have been in 
demand at higher rates in proportion to their size than 
any other cultivated floAver, single spikes of flowers bring- 
ing from |10 to $15 per 100. The roots are mostly im- 
ported from Europe, the single crowns or eyes costing 
about $25 per 1000. The demand for them has been so 
great that the quality of roots sent us has been very in- 



LILY OF THE T ALLEY. 179 

ferior, so that the atteinpt to flower tbem hns completely 
failed in more tliaii half the number of instances tried. 

The method is to place the crowns thickly together in 
shallow boxes, and keep them cool for 4 or 5 weeks after 
planting, or until they have formed roots:. The tem- 
perature is then gradually increased until it leaches 65 or 
70 degrees. The glass should be well shaded. The plant 
being a native of shady woods, the nearer we can imitate 
nature the better will be our success in cultivation. Some 
who force this keep the plants entirely in the dark until 
the leaf and flower-spikes are well developed. 

JAPANESE CHEYSAJSTTHEMUM. 

Chrysanthemum laciniatum, the Japanese Fringe Flow- 
er, (flg. 41,) is comparatively new to our collections, it 
having been introduced with several others in 1865. As 
a Chrysanthemum merely, there is nothing remarkable 
about it, except the friuged edging to the petals; but last 
year its winter-flowering qualities were discovered by one 
of the leading flower-growers for the New York market; 
its blooming so late gives it great value for florists' pur- 
poses. The flowers are double, nearly three inches in di- 
ameter, delicately fringed, and of the purest white. It is 
this season largely grown for winter bouquets, etc., by 
most of our florists. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, BASKETS, &c., i&c. 

The following chapter on making up flowers into 
bouquets, etc., and descriptiveof the various styles now in 
uso in New York and vicinity, has been written by James 
H. Park, of Brooklyn, L. I. Mr. Park's taste and judge- 



180 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

ment ia this business have given him an enviable reputa- 
tion, and my readers, many of whom are deeply interested 
on this subject, vi^ill, I am certain, lieartily join with me in 
thanking him for his clear, comprehensive, and unreserved 
account. 

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, BASKETS, ETC. 

With the earliest civilization of our race, flowers began 
to be cherished, and employed for decorative purposes; 
nor is their arrangement in bouquets a modern art,altliough 
its practice is of comparatively recent and marvellous 
growth amongst us. 

Many people decry the artificial nrrangement of flowers, 
but how shall we otherwise use them to advantnge ? 
The moment we begin to tie them together we leave nature, 
and ought to do so only to study art. In their simplest 
arrangement, form and color must be studied to produce 
the best effect, and whoever best accomplishes this, will 
surely succeed in displaying his flowers to the best ad- 
vantage. 

Bouquet making is (or at least ought to be) the art of 
arranging flowers. "Who has not seen bunches of beau- 
tiful flowers cut from the garden and tied up in the least 
artistic fashion with the most stupid result? And who 
that has attended fashionable weddings or parties has not 
occasionally seen a large bouquet or basket in which the 
quantity of good flowers was its only merit, where a mass 
of flowers were muddled toorether in a most inconc^ruous 
fashion, equally removed from both nature and art ? Nor is 
this fault that of the tyro in bouquet making only ; many 
who practice it as an occupation have not learned the first 
principles of tasteful arrangement. Yet great allowance 
may be made for the bouquet makers, when we consider 
how much like labor their work becomes. Any one, try- 
ing aJ vays to execute this work with taste, would scarcely 



CONSTPuUCTIo:>^ OF BOTTQUETS, ETC. 181 

accomplish the amount of work required of him in any 
thriving establishment, a great part of which is of 
necessity done hurriedly; and as the variety of flowers is 
so great and constantly changing with the seasons, and 
their colors so varied, it is only by trying them in various 
combinations that the best results can be obtained. Few 
are willing to pay for this kind of work. Many a 
gardener, who is not too well occupied in whiter, rniglit 
make a pleasing study of this little art, and thereby add 
to his own pleasure and profit, as well as those of his em 
ployers. 

Probably the simplest, easiest, and commonly the most 
desirable, method of using cut flowers is arranging them in 
vases. The more loosely and unconfused, the better. 
Crowding is particularly to be avoided, and to ac- 
complish this readily a good base of greens is required, to 
keep the flowers apart. This filling up is a very important 
part in all bouquet making, and the neglect of it is the great- 
est stumbling-block of the uninitiated. Spiked and droop- 
ing flowers, with branches and sprays of delicate green, are 
indispensable to the grace and beauty of a vase bouquet. 
To preserve the individuality of flowers, which is of the 
greatest importance, the placing those of similar size and 
form together ought to be avoided. Thus Heliotrope, 
Stevia, Eupatorium, or Alyssum, when combined lose their 
distinctive beauty; but, if placed in juxtapositicm to larger 
flowers, and those of other forms, their beauty is heighten- 
ed by contrast. It may be stated as a rule, that small 
flowers should never be massed together. Large flowers 
with green leaves or branches may be used to advantage 
alone, but a judicious contrast of forms is most effect- 
ive. 

Nothing is so strikingly beautiful on a refreshment 
table as a handsome centre-piece of flowers. All the airy 
castles of the confectioner are passed over by the eye, 
which is at once arrested and refreshed by the brilliant 



1S2 TEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

beauty of the products of the garden or conservatory ; and 
we wonder how any person of taste, wlio possesses the 
means, should ever fail to have flowers on his table when 
entertaining friends. Considering the eifect, flowers on the 
table, like plants in the garden, are certainly the cheapest 
of ornaments. There are those who would ha^ve nothing 
upon their table but what they can eat or drink ; like a 
gentleman who once employed the writer of this to lay 
out a new garden, and objected to having roses planted by 
the fences, saying very earnestly " Ah, yes ! I suppose 
they are very pretty, but then, you see, we couldn't get 
anything to eat from them. Guess we won't have any of 
them things." Luckily for the well-being of poor human- 
ity such desperately practical men are not very numer- 
ous. An epergne filled with flowers forms the most ef- 
fective of table bouquets. For a large dinner table this 
bouquet holder ought to be from two to three feet in 
height, with tliree, four, or five branches, and if the table 
is very large, a smaller epergne at each end will add to 
the efi*ect. For a less pretentious table an epergne twelve 
to eighteen inches in height may be used to equal advant- 
age. The superiority of an epergne consists in its raising 
the flowers to a height sufficient to gain their full effiect, 
whereas forms of flowers built from a lower vase lose 
much by the interference of surrounding dishes. With a 
handsome epergne and the flowers arranged in nearly semi- 
circular outline, pointed with two or more handsome 
flower-spikes, and diversified with here and there a fine 
fern leaf and other sprays of lively green, with a few fine 
rose-buds and spikelets of heath, acacia, or similarly form- 
ed flowers, projecting from the main body to give ease and 
grace, and with a profusion of bright green or variegated 
foliage and flowers in drooping sprays around, the best re- 
sults may be attained. For such a bouquet a fair propor- 
tion of large flowers is indispensable, and an excess of 
projecting points is to be avoided as confusing. Table 



COXSTETJCTIOX OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 



183 



bouquets, made in the fashion of the confectioner's stiff 
pyramids of maccaronies, are wretched decorations, 
and very discreditable to all connected with tliem Bet- 
ter, a thousand times, to have half the quantity of flowers 
decently arranged. 

Baskets of flowers for decorating parlor tables, man- 
tels, &c., ought to be somewhat in keeping with their 
surroundings ; a rough bouquet, adapted to grace a rus- 
tic table at a picnic, would not be in as good taste here 
as something finer and more neatly put together. Oval 
and round are the only permissible forms for flower 



V'- * 7 




Fig. 54.— BASKET OF FLOWERS. 

baskets ; the flowers ought also to be rounding in form, 
yet not too much so. We give an illustration, (fig. 42,) 
as the easiest method of conveying our idea of the 
best outline. The basket shown here is also one of 
the best, but whether high or low, the open round or 
oval basket is very effective. Handled baskets we deem 
out of place as parlor ornaments, having doubtless been 
originally designed to carry ; the handle iuA^ariably inter- 
feres with the general effect, and can only be tolerated 



184 



PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUEE. 



wlien benutifully trimmed with flowers and fine greens. 
For parlor decoration, high stands, with or without 
branches, small, pendent baskets," or hanging baskets of 
flowers, or of plants with rich flower sprays hung around 
tlicm, are frequently used to advantage. Balls of flowers, 
like hanging baskets, are best displayed from the centre 
of an arch or folding doors, and with festoons of flowers 
looped from centre to sides the eftect is greatly height- 
ened. Festoons of green suspended chain-like from the 
top of a j)lain chandelier to each light, with festoons of 
flowers from the centre underneath to the same points. 




Fig. 55,— HAND-BOUQUET. 

make one of the gayest of floral decorations. Wreaths 
of flowers or of bright green leaves, or of both, around 
circular or oval framed portraits may be used on spe- 
cial occasions to advantage. A ball, or hanging bou- 
quet, loosely arranged, suspended clear, in front of a high 
mirror, and with rich festoons of flowers, from the 
same, point looped to each side, makes a spl^mdid dis- 
play. 

The circle must be taken as the line of beauty in all 
bouquet making, apart from those loosely arranged. 
Whether it is a table or hand bouquet, or basket, there 



CONSTETJCTIOIS' OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 185 

must be a certain rounding of outlines, the segment of 
a circle. Hand bonqets admit of the most formal ar- 
rangement of flowers, and the tendency of all cultivated 
tastes in tliis direction must be admitted as proof, that 
for this purpose something more than a mere bunch of 
flowers is required. The American, French, or English 
lady never figures, even in a book of fashion, in evening 
dresSjholding a bunch of flowers or any odd shaped bouquet. 
Crude forms, pyramids, balls, &c., can never supersede 
the slightly rounding bouquet, (fig. 43,) which is likely 
to continue for all time the true form, like the parasol, 
which might have been its prototype. Ball bouquets 
would be handsome enough, but for the handles, "which 
completely destroy the line of beauty. As for those abor- 
tions of the same form pointed with rose-buds, they are 
only fitted to convey to moderns an idea of the ancient 
weapon of war, that was swung by a chain or thong, and 
which Sir Walter Scott describes the Baron of Smail- 
holm as carrying : 

"At his saddle girth hung- a good steel spertJie 
Full teik pounds weight and more." 

After form, tlie most important point in bouquet making 
is the arransrement of colors. The incono;ruous mixins; of 
tliese in a great measure destroys the effect of the finest 
flowers, while the more delicately the coloring is blend- 
ed and the more strikingly contrasted, the more perfect 
and pleasing is the result. Let any one who doubts this, 
compare a bouquet of the best flowers in which many col- 
ors are freely used, with one made of pink shading deli- 
cately from the centre to blush and white, or vice versa, 
and with a few tiny points of bright scarlet or violet 
tastefully set amidst the white. 

I'he arrangement of colors in simple geometrical forms 
is greatly preferable to a succession of distinct rings in a 
bouquet. The ribbon pattern is A^ery pretty in a flower 
bedj but in very questionable taste in bouquet making ; 



186 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

a bordering of white, blue, or pink, may be generally used 
with good effect. Handsome leaves of the geranium or 
camellia (the latter is preferable for its brightness and 
durability) alternating with fine sprays of green, delicate 
flower scapes, or spikelets of heaths, form a fitting edging 
for a hand bouquet. A fine hand bouquet may be made 
with smooth outline and relieved by a few delicate points 
of green or fine leaves. In filling out a hand bouquet, half- 
dried moss is preferable to bouquet green, as it can be used 
more readily to keej) the flowers apart without so much 
increase of weight and stem ; a light backing of green, 
concave underneath, finishes the bouquet. White lute- 
string ribbon wound around the handle and tied in a bow 
is preferable to tinfoil. 

Judging the merits of bouquets, etc., has always been a 
very difticult point amongst gardeners and florists, nor 
is this to be wondered at when exhibitors and judges 
have each their own notions of excellence, various as the 
men themselves. It is only by comparison that the 
merits of any article can be well judged, and the best con- 
noisseurs of arranged flowers are not to be found amongst 
gardeners, who have few opportunities of comparing such 
things, but amongst the lovers of flowers, the men and wom- 
en of cultivated tastes who, having leisure and means, find 
pleasure in studying their merits, and thus set up for them- 
selves a higher standard of excellence. An unskilled 
person set to judge a collection of pansy flowers proba* 
bly would not arrive at the same conclusions, as one who 
judged the same flowers by the standard rules which 
hold the circle, the thick and smooth petal, the sharply 
defined eye, and distinct division of colors, as the only 
true marks of perfection. A hand bouquet may liave its 
colors inlaid like mosaic with very good effect, and if the 
coloring be well toned and contrasted, such a bouquet 
made with skill, like prize pansies, would compel any one 
who saw it to admire, although many would object to it 



CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC, 187 

as stiff and unnatural, which it certainly is, but a hand 
some bouquet nevertlieless. 

There are some flowers whose colors repel all 
close communication with others; such are the purple, 
ruddy purple, and most of the striped carnations, all 
roses with even a tinge of purple, (and this includes most 
of the hardy roses, as well as others,) in fact, there is 
scarcely any shade of purple which can be used to advant- 
age in bouquet making. Excepting blue like that of the 
violet, there is scarcely any sliade of blue even, which can 
be advantageously used in a closely arranged bouquet, and 
the violet, beautiful though it be, is a very ineffective 
flower by gaslight; still more so is the favorite helio- 
trope. Many shades of yellow are harsh, yet some may 
be used with good effect in bouquets, particularly when 
toned with blue; for example, the racemes of acacia pubes- 
cens, either in bud or blossom, as a bordering fringe are 
exceedingly beautiful and put to shame that over-fastid- 
ious taste wliich rejects all yellow flowers. Even estab' 
lished rules on colors fail to guide us always in the 
arrangement of flowers. Artists tell us that blue and green 
should never come together, yet the violet can have no 
more beautiful setting than its own green leaves, while 
dark blue flowers show to equal advantage in their darker 
green foliage. In Nature's own setting, all flowers are be- 
coming; it is only by placing them at a disadvantage 
that they can ever appear otherwise; but so infinite are their 
shades and forms that their perfect arrangement in bou- 
quets must ever be a work of taste and skill. We would 
not assert that bouquet makers, like poets, " are born, not 
made," yet we know that many in this, as in other call- 
ings, are, and ever Avill be, utterly unfitted for the work 
they undertake. 

Funeral flowers are now a very important part of the 
florist's trade. Ten years ago, ten dollars' worth of flowers 
were more rare at a funeral in New York than one hund- 



188 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

red now, and sometimes one funeral demands a thousand 
dollars' worth. The wreath and crescent wreath are un- 
doubtedly the best forms for this purpose, and the cross is 
a favorite and beriutiiul emblem. An upright cross of 
flowers, solid on all sides, with a base of the same, is a 
very striking object, but Unless well and richly made, 
were better left alone. Anchors, crowms, baskets, and 
bouquets, are all used for the same purpose. In any of 
these foims, the slightly rounding surface is the best; that 
is to say, the flowers in the wreath, cross, &c., must 
neither be flat nor too highly rounded. 

It has ever been a matter of wonder to the workers in 
flowers how such a preponderance of white is required. 
Most of them have not realized (although often practis- 
ing it) that the most beautiful colored bouquets have 
nlways a large proportion of white in their composition. 
When we consider that white flowers are used, in quan- 
tity at least, equal to flowers of all colors collectively, and 
add to this the large amount of white flowers used alone 
for funerals, weddings, church offerings, &c., we may more 
readily conceive how important the raising of white 
flowers is to all flower growers. We believe it is safe 
to afiirm that no one in the flower business fairly dis- 
covered this necessity, until the vastly increasing demand 
for flo\Aers in late years forced it upon his attention, 
and compelled growers to the production of white 
flowers as the most important part of their business. 

Bouquet making is no longer a paltry business; the 
trade in flowers, in New York at least, has fairly outgrown 
that of flowering plants, and when so much of this work 
is required, and when that well done is so much more valu- 
able, it becomes worthy of more study and attention. 

Many people have little idea of the value set upon 
flowers by some of their fellow mortals. In New York, 
during winter, twenty-five cents is a common price for a 
handsome rose-bud, the same per dozen for violets, 



CONSTEUCTIOX OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 189 

"wliile camellias vary from one dollar each, when scarce, 
to twenty-five cents when plentiful. At Christmas and 
New Year's, camellias nre frequently sold from two to 
tliree dollars each. The price of hand bouquets varies 
from fiftj'- cents upwards. What florists call good hand 
bouquets sell at about five dollars, extra fine from five to 
ten; occasionally they bring still higher figures. This writer 
has sold not a few at fifteen, and on rare occasions has 
received twenty dollars for a hand bouquet, and that 
from men who knew well the usual prices of flowers. 
To oive the uninitiated some idea how these thino*s are 
used, we may mention having seen a belle at an evening 
party in New York, carrying a bouquet in each hand, 
while thi-ee others were strung from each arm as tro- 
phies of her prowess among the simpler, if not the softer 
sex. Of course this display could not last long; the very 
weight of her attractions would speedily compel her to sur- 
render, for be it remembered those eight bouquets certain- 
ly contained about sixty camellins alone. We have known 
rich and fashionable belles even more favored than this, 
and have heard of one having fifteen splendid hand bouquets 
sent for one occasion. We have never, however, heard of 
another showing such muscular prowess in their display. 
Baskets of flowers commonly sell from five to twenty-five 
dollars, stands from fifteen to fifty, extra large stands from 
fifty to a hundred. We have heard of two hundred and 
even three hundred dollars being paid for one. Bouquets 
for refreshment and dinner tables range from five to fifty 
dollars each; we have ourselves made one at one hundred. 
The prices of wreaths, crosses, &c., vary from five to 
twenty or thirty dollars ; from five to fifteen is a com- 
mon rans^e. On one occasion a New York florist is said 
to have supplied three thousand dollars' worth of flowers 
for a private entertainment, but two or three hundred 
is more common, and esteemed a very good order. 
A business, which in New York alone amounts to hund- 



190 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



reds of tlioiisnnds of dollars annually, will soon assert 
its own position, and it is for those engaged in it to make 
or mar it, as they conduct it more or less respectably. 
As Americans assuredly pay better prices for their bouquets 
than any other people, let the florist see to it that they 
get the finest and best arranged flowers. 

We must apologize to the general reader for the minute 
description and the technical terms used in detailing the 
'modus opercDidi of construction, but it is necessary to 
be thus particular, to be proj^erly understood by such as 
are interested in the subject. So many flowers have 
short or unmanageable stems, or grow 
so close to buds which the grower can- 
not afford to cut, that artificial stems must 
be largely used. Even where stems are 
available, the bouquet maker in all good 
work prefers having another added to 
hold the flower in position, the strength 
of the stem being proportioned to the 
weiofht of the flower it bears. Thick 
stems must be avoided, else the bouquet 
handle becomes clumsy, — a very objec- 
tionable feature, as amateurs speedily dis- 
cover, particularly when using flowers on 
their own stems. The stems commonly 
used are of broom-corn or straw matting, 
cut in lengths as desired, from four to 
With this and hair wire cut to three 
inches, the "stemmer" goes to work. By a rapid twist 
one end of the wire is fastened on the straw, and the 
flower is attached by a whirl of the stem between finger 
and thumb, as in figure 44. Stemming is a large 
part of the labor of bouquet making, and rather distaste- 
ful to the amateur. One bouquet maker requires two 
stemmers, and a very prosy business it soon becomes to 
both, and vastly less interesting than the growing of 




Fig. 56. 
eic^ht inches. 



CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 191 

flowers. Strong spool cotton or shoe thread is used foi 
tying up the flowers. Camellia stems being entirely un 
available, a wire tlie thickness of a pin is passed througl 
the calyx of the flower, the ends being twisted together 
It is then stemmed on a light, dried willow — which admits 
of bending to the required position — with suflicient moss 
wound under the flower to prevent its outer petals being 
at all compressed, when set in the bouquet. Without 
some such provision it is impossible, either to attain the 
rounding outline of the bouquet, or to display the flowers 
in perfection. 

With flowers prepared, let us take a camellia for the 
centre of our bouquet, tie it securely to the bouquet 
stem (a piece of kite stick or stifi" twig), and wind moss 
around it, as already described, to keep the flower from 
outer pressure, the moss running to a point about two 
inches below the flower. Six tea rose-buds are now set at 
resfular intervals around and on a line with the outer 
petals of the camellia, and the spaces between these each 
filled with a small piece of white eupatorium, a very 
small geranium leaf or point of delicate green being set 
by each bud. A little moss is now wound lightly, 
close under the flowers, to prevent crowding, a pink car- 
nation set behind each rose-bud, with tuberoses between, 
a speck of euj^atoiium being inserted under the edge of 
each tuberose, to fill out. Six white camellias of equal 
size and form, stemmed as described, are now set at regu- 
lar intervals around, particular care being taken to form 
with the face of these flowers the correct outline of the 
bouquet, and their stems tightly bound, to prevent work- 
ing out of place. Between each camellia, on the inner 
side, another tuberose is set, filled out with a speck of 
stevia under each side ; more moss is added, and a bright 
speck of crimson bouvardia forms the sole dividing line 
between the centres of the camellias — which nearly touch 
each other. A tea rose-bud follows, with a violet set in 



192 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUIiE. 

swe(!t alyssnm on one side and a small geranium leaf in 
tbe same on the other; a white carnation is set behind 
each bud, with a speck of bouvardia in cupatorium ou 
each side. A liglit border of stevia is now set around the 
whole, and v/ith camellia leaves of equal form steijiaoaed 
on willows, and projected nearly half their lengthy the 
bouquet is finished. The back is trimmed with bouquet 
green, or fine leaves of any evergreen. The handle is cut 
to about three inches, and being a hand bouquet, is wrap- 
ped with tinfoil, wound over, and neatly tied above with 
a bow of white tafifeta ribbon. 

The outline of the bouquet must be carefully kept as 
the work proceeds, and sufficient moss from time to time 
packed lightly in front and immediately under the flow- 
ers. By this means the weight of tlie structure is borne 
by the stems, the flowers being only allowed to toucli 
each other. Moss not only serves well tokeeptlie flowers 
apart, but acts as a sponge when the bouquet is set in water, 
giving moisture to flowers with the shortest stems; and 
bouquets thus made are more durable than the casual ob- 
server — who gazes regretfully on the beheaded flowers — 
is apt to imagine. When, in addition to the moss, a piece 
of wet cotton is stemmed to every flower, (as the Avriter 
has all good work done,) the natural stem is not unkindly 
superseded. The maker must work with a tight thread, 
to prevent the flowers from getting out of place, and keep 
a clean surface on the handle. Another method of bouquet 
making is to tie a ball of moss rather loosely on the 
bouquet stick and insert the flowers (which are stemmed 
to suit the work), di-awing them down to the desired posi- 
tion, and tying as the work proceeds. 

Vase bouquets are made similarly, with more green 
"backing" between and around the flowers, for loose ar- 
rangement and to support the greater weight. Flower 
baskets are lined with tinfoil, or, if not likely to show after 
filling, any tough paper will serve the purpose ; they are 



- CONSTRTJCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 



193 




then filled with sawdust, rounding above, damped and cov- 
ered with wet moss ; a border of arbor-vitaa, bouquet, or 
other greens is set around, to support the overhanging flow- 
ers. The flowers, stemmed on pieces of match stick, (fig. 
45,) or twigs, are now inserted according to the taste of the 
worker, with moss packed between them as the work- 
proceeds. Baskets thus filled and sprinkled with water 
keep well, but the more common method is to insert bou- 
quet green (Lycopodium) over the 
whole surface, and arrange the 
flowers therein without any moss 
packing. Wreaths are commonly 
made on a stout wire, which has 
a straw of matting wound to it, to 
enable the thread to hold ; a back- 
ing of green is laid for the flowers 
as the work proceeds. Both green 
and flowers must be wound on with 
points projecting to each side, the 
stems crossing like the letter X. 
If laid straight along, the flowers 
are huddled together, and the ar- 
rangement seems thick backed 
and clumsy. When the desired 
length is attained the ends are 
firmly tied, and flowers and green together are pressed 
round on the wire, and by this means turned to face as 
required; a bow of white silk bonnet string finishes the 
wreath. Crosses are made on two pieces of thin wood ; 
the three upper points being made, the cross-stick is then 
tacked and tied in its place, the centre filled, and so 
■wx>»nd to the bottom. Like wreaths, these may be finish- 
ed wifh or without a bow of ribbon. Wire frames have 
to a great extent superseded these old methods of 
winding flowers to sticks and wires. These are made 
from half to three quarters of an inch in depth — that is, 



Tig. 57. 



194 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



with raised edges — and painted green, the breadth vary- 
ing with the circumference. The frame gives the florist 
at once the desired form, and makes it easy work for any 
person of taste to arrange flowers in the shape of an 
anchor, star, &c., &c. Tlie frame is filled with damp 
moss, wound slightly to keep it in place, and the flowers, 
stemmed on short twigs, are inserted in the moss. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



WIRE DESIGNS FOR CUT FLOWERS. 



Florists who liave not yet made use of wire frames for 
designs of flowers, will be surprised at the facilities they 
aflTord in constructing such decorations. They are now 
used exclusively in New York for such work, the low 





Fio-, 59. — OKOWN. 




STAE. 



Fig. 58. — WREATH. 

rates at which they aie sold saving more than the' cost of 
the labor of making them by the old methods, besides 
giving correct shape to the diflerent designs. By having 
an assortment of these frames on hand, a dealer can sup- 
ply an order in a surprisingly short time. The manner 
of filling the frames is described in the preceding cl)a})ter. 
It is a very common practice to cover the edges of the 
frame, and even the whole surface with tinfoil ; the flow- 



"WIRE DESIGNS FOR CUT FLOWERS. 



195 



ers are readily put through this ; it hides the moss, pre- 
vents any small j^articles from escaping, and at the same 
time serves to prevent evaporation from the damp moss. 
To those who object to the formality of flower designs 






Fig, 61. — SHIELD. 



Fig. 62.— HAKP. 



Fig. 63. — HEART. 



for funeral or for other uses we would ask what they 
would substitute, or if flowers are to be given in what bet- 
ter shape can the ofiering be presented ? To those who 
object that they are made the objects of bargain and sale, 
we say so may be the carriage in which you attend at the 






Fig. 64. — LYRE. 



Fig. 65. — CROSS. 



Fig. 66. — ANCHOR. 



grave to show your sympathy. It does not show less sym- 
pathy if it involv'es sacrifice, and the greatest sacrifice 
which many can give is money — money expended often 
from a slim purse in pui-chasing a last tribute of respect 
to the memory of a departed friend. 



196 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

HANGING BASKETS. 

It is only of late years that the taste for hanging bask- 
ets has become so universal, possibly induced by the 
beautiful specimens of this kind exhibited in such variety 
and profusion at the Crystal Palace, of London, a dozen 
years ago. The taste has extended to every town and 
hamlet throughout the land. The baskets are made either 
of wire -work, earthenware, or of rough and gnarled roots 
or liinbs, to form " rustic " work. The wire and rustic 
baskets are the kinds in most general use. 

Only certain kinds of plants are suitable for hanging 
baskets ; such as are of low, compact growth, to cover the 
surface, and such as are of drooping or trailing habit, to 
hano; over the sides. For a basket of one foot in diameter 
we name the following as suitable : 

Coleus Verschaffeltii, a well-known bronze-foliaged plant. 

Centaurea Candida, a plant with white, downy leaves, 
of compact growth. 

Geranium, Tom Thumb, scarlet, dwarf and compact, 
blooming all summer. 

Sedum Sieboldii, a plant with light glaucous leaves and 
graceful habit, which is not only desirable on account of 
its foliage alone, but for its purplish rose colored flowers. 

These are suitable for the upper surface of the basket. 
Those proper to plant near the edge of the basket are: 

Lobelia Erinus Paxtoni, blue, drooping 18 inches. 

Tropaeolum, Ball of Fire, dazzling scarlet, 18 inches. 

Lysimachia nummularia, bright yellow, 18 inches. 

Linaria Cymbalaria, small flowers, graceful foliage. 

For a basket of two feet in diameter the under-named 
make a fine display. For the center: 

Geranium, Mrs. Pollock, foliage, crimson, yellow, and 
green ; flowers, bright scarlet. 



HANGING BASKETS. 



197 



Centaurea gymnocarpa, foliage, fern-like, whitish gray, 
of a peculiar graceful habit. 




Fig. 67. — PANICUM VARIEGATUM. 



Sedum Sieboldii variegatum, glaucous green, marbled 
with golden yellow. 

Achyranthes Gilsonii, a beautiful shade of carmine 
folia Of e and stem. 



193 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Alyssum dentatum variegatum, foliage, green and 
white, with fragrant flowers of pure white. 

Alternanthera spathulata, lanceolate leaves of pink and 
ciimson. 

Pyrethrnm, Golden Feather, fern-like foliage, golden 
yellow. 

For the drooping plants : 

Maurandia Barclayana, white or purple flowers. 

Vinca elegantissima aurea, foliage, deep green, netted 
with golden yellow ; flowers, deep blue. 

Cerastium tomentosum, foliage, downy white ; flowers, 
white. 

Convolvulus Mauritanicus, flowers, light blue, profuse. 

Solanum jasminoides variegatum, foliage, variegated; 
flowers, white, with yellow anthers. 

Geranium peltatum elegans, a variety of the Ivy-leaved, 
with rich, glossy foliage, and beautiful mauve-colored 
flowers. 

Panicum variegatum, a procumbent grass from New 
Caledonia, of graceful habit of growth, with beautiful va- 
riegated foliage, striped white, carmine, and green. One 
of the most valuable plants for basJcets or vases that has 
been recently introduced. It requires a plenty of heat. 
Fig. 67 inadequately represents it, as it was taken from a 
very inferior specimen. 

In setting the plants in the hanging baskets, a layer of 
moss at least an inch in depth should be spread over the 
bottom and sides, so that the water may be held and 
prevented fi*om washing through. 

To have the plants bloom freely, they should be hung 
where they will be exposed to the sun at least two or 
three hours each day, and in dry weather copiously 
watered daily. If the surface of the basket between the 
plants is covered with moss, it will prevent the earth 



PAKLOR OR WINDOW GARDENING. 19J 

from drying out so soon, and will give a neater appear- 
ance to the basket. The soil used to plant in may be 
that suitable for potting ordinary plants, as described 
under the head of soils. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

PARLOR OR WINDOW GARDENING. 

To be successful in growing plants in the window of 
the parlor or sitting-room, it is of the first importance to 
begin with plants that are in a healthy state. 

Florists, with all their appliances for successful culture, 
often fail to bring health to a sickly subject. How, then, 
can our amateur friends hope to recuperate the weakened 
energies of some petted plant in the less congenial atmos- 
phere of an ordinary dwelling-house? I well know the 
usual practice of our lady friends in this matter. In pur- 
chasing their supply of bedding plants from the florist 
in May, all are taken from the pots and planted, in flower 
beds, to decorate the borders for the summer months. By 
the first appearance of frost in October, the plants of Bou- 
vardias, Carnations, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Heliotropes, 
Roses, &c., &c., that were such tiny slips when planted 
out in May, are now, many of them, large plants, and in 
all their glory of bloom ; but Jack Frost shall not have 
them, they shall be saved. Pots are sent for, soil of the 
most approved brand is procured from some florist high 
in the art the plants are lifted up with all care and placed 
in the pots. Our amateur friend is in raptures ; as yet they 
look just as green and flourishing as when growing in 
the garden. But a day passes, and although they have 
)> <en shaded and watered with all care, the plants some- 



200 PEACTICAh FLORICULTURE. 

how begin to show symptoms of collapse. The Geranium 
leaves, that looked so green and well, are now soft and 
flabby. The Rose-buds, that held up their heads witli 
pride, now look abashed and hang down. 

This state of affairs continues : from the leaves being 
5'imply wilted they begin to get yellow and shrivel up ; by 
ten days, many of the j^lants have died outright, and the 
remainder are in a sad looking condition, that is dis- 
heartening to the owner. 

No other result than this will ever be obtained with 
plants treated in this manner. When florists wish to lift 
plants of this nature in fall, two-thirds of the shoots are 
usually cut off, and the plants put through a course of treat- 
ment to induce them to strike new roots, that it is hardly 
ever in the power of the amateur to apply ; but even though 
we succeed in saving the plants, it is almost always at 
the expense of the bloom, for few ,plants can be lifted in 
bloom in October from the open ground and continue to 
blossom throughout the winter. ISTow, having pointed 
out the errors, I will show the way to succeed in obtain- 
ing healthy plants that will grow and bloom freely in 
winter, provided they are supplied with the necessary 
moisture and heat. All plants that are intended for house 
plants in winter, when set out in May, should be first 
placed in pots, 6 or 7 inches in diameter. These pots 
should be planted, or, as we term it, " plunged " to the 
rim, or level with the surface ; thus they are almost in the 
same condition as if they had been planted without the 
pot, only the roots are confined inside of the pot, so that 
when the plant is lifted in fall there is no mutilation of the 
roots, as must always of necessity be the case when the 
plant is put in the open ground, as the roots ramify in 
all directions. One caution, however, is necessary : the 
hole in the bottom of the pot must be effectually stopped 
up so that the roots cannot strike through, or the pot 
should be turned around two or three times during the 



PARLOR OR WINDOW GARDENING. 201 

course of the summer, so as to break off tbe roots as tliey 
strike through the bottom. If this is not done, nearly the 
same difficulty will be experienced as if they had not been 
potted in spring. But if proper attention has been given to 
this, plants of every description that are suitable for win- 
ter will be in fine state by the time of taking up — in this 
district, the 1st of October — as by this time there is 
danger of frost. 

The following list comprises those plants most suitable 
for window culture, and such as are most easily managed 
and least expensive. 

Calla, (Hichardia,) 

Carnations — monthly sorts, 

Cyclamens, 

Chrysanthemums, 

Chinese Primroses, 

Fuchsias. 

Hyacinths and other Bulbs, 

Geraniums, Variegated, Zonale, Scented, and Ivy-leaved, 

Heliotropes, 

Pelargoniums, 

Poses — Tea, Bourbon, and Bengal, 

Camellias and Azaleas. 

All of these will flower and grow freely in a green-house 
temperature, or at an average of not more than 50 degrees 
at night, with 15 or 20 degrees higlier during the day. 

We add another list of plants requiring a higher tem- 
perature, some of them being in other respects more diffi- 
cult of culture, besides being more expensive ; 
i Bouvardias of sorts. Begonias, 

Cissus discolor, Euphorbias, 

Stephanotis, Poinsettias, 

Tuberoses, Orchids, 

Ferns, Lycopodiums. 

All of the above will luxuriate best in a humid atmos- 
phere, at an average of not less than 60° at night, with 



202 PEACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 

15 or 20 degrees higher during the day. The best aspect 
for growing plants from October to April is due south. 
For the intermediate season, east is preferable. Watering 
is a very important operation, but a little experience with 
[)lnnts, and ordinary care in observing, will soon show 
wiien this is required. A good deal depends on the condi- 
tion of the plant; if in vigorous growth tliere is but little 
danger of giving it too much. On the other hand, if the 
plant has been cut back or lost its leaves, water should be 
given sparingly. For example, you may take a vigorous 
growing apple or pear tree, and saw off its limbs to the 
trunk in midsummer; if its roots are kept saturated with 
moisture it will die, but if kept dry it will shortly again 
develop branches and leaves. This example teaches us a 
lesson in more artificial culture, that in proportion to the 
vigor of the subject should its food be supplied. The 
practice of placing the pots in saucers filled with water 
is destructive to the health of the plants, as, of course, 
as long as the water remains in the saucers the soil 
is absorbing it and the roots of the plant are satui'ated; 
it is well enough to use the saucers to prevent the soil 
from washing through, but the water should be applied 
at the surface of the pot, and what little will pass through 
into the saucer will do no harm. Another source of an- 
noyance to those growing plants in rooms is the various in- 
sects that attack them. The most common and inju- 
rious of these is the Aphis or Green Fly. In our green- 
houses we keep this little pest in check by continued 
fumigation with tobacco, but as this would not be practi- 
cable in rooms, recourse must be had to immersing the 
plant in tobacco water, made to a strength having about the 
color of strong tea. By dipping the plant in this once in 
two weeks, or, when the plants are large, syringing them 
with it, they will never be seen. The Red Spider and 
thrip are not so easily got rid of, but fortunately they are 
not so common or injurious, unless in a very high temper- 



WINDOW GARDENING. 203 

ature and dry atmosphere. The only way of arresting 
them is by syringing or immersing as for Green Fly. 

There are no special soils necessary for the amateur to 
trouble himself about in cultivating parlor flowers. For our 
opinions on this head, see chapter on soils. Neither should 
he tamper with guano or other fertilizers ; equalization of 
temperature and moisture will secure the end desired. 

WINDOW-GAKDENING IN LONDON COTTAGE GARDENS. 

One of the most refreshing sights to an American ar- 
riving in London during the summer months is the won- 
derful diversity and beauty of the flowers cultivated in 
the Avindows and balconies of the houses. In some of the 
best streets hardly a house can be seen that is not so 
adorned, and even the most squalid abodes of vice and 
poverty are often relieved by a miniature flower-garden on 
the window-sill. Tlie most common style is the window- 
box, made to fit the window, usually from four to five feet 
long, and about six to eight inches wide and deep. It is 
made of every conceivable pattern, of terra-cotta, cork, 
and rustic design in endless variety. The plants used are 
not very numerous in variety, being selected of kinds 
suited to keep in bloom or to sustain their brightness of 
foliage. Now and then the ribbon-line jjlanting is adopted 
on the balconies ; a very handsome box in this style had 
first a row of Moneywort {Lyslmachia nummularia)^ 
which formed a drooping curtain of four feet in length ; 
half-way down on it drooped blue Lobelia ; then upon the 
Lobelia fell a bright yellow Sedum (Stone-crop) ; then 
against the Sedum, for the top-line or background, a 
dwarf Zonale Geranium, a perfect blaze of scarlet. 
Hardly two of these window decorations were alike in 
the best streets, and varied from a simple box of Mig- 
nonette or Sweet Alyssum to cases filled with the rarest 
ferns or orchids. The effect as a whole is most pleasing, 
and one that can not fail to strike the most indifferent ob- 



204 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

server as an agreeable change from the seemingly never- 
ending brick and stone of the city. The window-garden- 
ing is not confined to private dwellings, but all the leading 
hotels are so decorated. In the dining-room of the Lang- 
ham Hotel (said to be the largest in England), some 
hundreds of well-grown speciments of plants are placed 
in the windows, and kept in perfect order during the 
entire summer. The selection of plants is made regard- 
less of expense, and in looking around the dining-hall it 
is with some difficulty that you decide if you are not 
dining in the midst of a vast conservatory, so redolent is 
the air with the perfume of flowers. The same taste for 
window-gardening is displayed, more or less, in all the 
English towns and villages, and even the humblest 
thatclied cottage of the peasant by the wayside is given 
a look of quiet happiness by the bower of flowers in the 
window. How different the look of these humble homes, 
where the occupant is receiving barely |4 per week, to 
the squalid shanties in the suburbs of our great cities in 
America, where the " naturalized " American citizen is 
earning three times that amount ! 

Here let me deviate from my text, but to a kindred 
subject, and tell how the English cottager works his gar- 
den in some of the old towns, such as Colchester. To 
each cottage, renting for about $50 per year, is attached a 
garden of something more than an eighth part of an acre 
in extent. In this little spot the tenant contrives to grow 
four to six kinds of vegetables, such as potatoes, cabbage, 
peas, turnips, etc., and of fruits, gooseberries, currants, 
raspberries, and strawberries. Every foot is made to pro- 
duce something, and rarely a weed was seen in some 
scores that we saw ranged side by side. The heavy work 
is done by the man of the house, " before or after hours," 
in his own time; In the weeding and hoeing he is 
assisted by wife or children. There is great rivalry 
among the different owners of these cottage gardens, and 



WARDIAN CASES AND FERNERIES. 205 

in many places liberal prizes are given by the horticul- 
tural societies to those that are best cultivated. 

Prizes are also offered for the best window-grown plants, 
and in Hull and some other towns, plants are distributed 
and printed instructions given for culture to encourage 
the taste. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

WARDIAN CASES, FERNERIES, &c. 

The Wardian Case is usually made with black walnut 
base lined with zinc, in depth about 6 inches, and about 2 
feet square on the sides ; but it is made of various sizes. 
The covering is a glass case, made usually 18 inches 
high ; the top or lid, also of glass, is made movable, so 
that ventilation is provided, and undue moisture allowed to 
escape. The plants grown in Wardian Cases are such 
as are peculiar for beauty of foliage rather than flower — 
plants whose natural habitat is shady woods; such as 
Ferns, Lycopodiums, Caladiums, Marantas, &c., &c. The 
soil used in such a case may be light peat or leaf- 
mould ; nothing of a stiff or heavy nature of a soil should 
be used. The case may be kept in any ordinary sitting- 
room, near the Avindow, but not exposed to the direct 
sunlight. There is no trouble whatever in management ; 
one moderate watering when the case is filled will keep it 
without further attention for six weeks, except an oc- 
casional ventilation when moisture lies heavy on the glass. 
In winter the temperature of the room may run from 50° 
to 65° at night. The culture of Ferns or Lycopods re- 
quires somewhat similar conditions as are found in the 
Wardian Case ; they can not be successfully grown unless 



206 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

in partial shade in a close, moist atmosphere. Hence it 
is useless to attempt the cultivation of such unless they 
are inclosed in cases in the dry atmosphere of an ordinary 
sitting-room. The florist can easily adapt his green-house 
to the proper conditions when required, but the amateur 
must secure these by means of a closed case of some 
kind. For single specimens or a few ferns and the like a 
glass shade with a proper base of metal or earthenware 
is frequently used, and is very ornamental. Ferneries of 
this kind are sold at the principal horticultural and seed 
stores. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

FORMATION OF ROCK-WORK. 

This feature of pleasure ground decoration is generally 
necessitated by circumstances; if the ground which has to 
be chosen for that purpose is naturally stony, it often be- 
comes the cheapest way to get rid of the stones, grouping 
them so that they become ornamental. They may often 
thus be used to advantage in forming breaks or screens, to 
hide the fl.ower garden from the vegetable or fruit garden ; 
in this way they are laid up in rugged walls, the inter- 
stices filled with soil and covered with hardy perennial 
plants. Locations where rocks exist in their natural con- 
dition can often be made highly interesting and ornament- 
al by setting out plants of a drooping or trailing habit 
(o overhang among them. Among those suitable for such 
purpose are : 

Acbilleas, of creeping growth, Linnsea borealis, 

Campanulas, of creeping growth, Lychnis grandiflora, 

Crucianellastylosa, Lyaimachia nummularia, 

Ccrastium tomeutosum, Orobus vernus, 



FORMATION OF ROCK-WORK. 207 

Pliloxos, of creeping growth, Soldanella alpina, 

Polciuoniuin reptaus, Vinca ranjor variegatii, 

. Saxifrai:as, Thymus vulgaris variegata, 

Sfd 11 m?, of all kinds, Violas of sorts. 
Sciniiervivuins, of all kinds, 

Artificial rock-works are often formed. The shape and 
dimensions of the work being determined on, the clinkers 
fiotn furnaces are collected, and dipped in hot lime wash, 
which gives a coloring of pure white to their fantastic 
shapes. With these the " rock-work " mound is formed 
of tlie height and shape desired, leaving at suitable dis- 
tances cavities of 6 or 8 inches deep, to be filled with soil 
in which to place the ci*eeping plants. For this kind of 
rock-work a different class of plants is more appropriate, 
— sucii as are of bright colors and will contrast with 
the ground-work of white. — Scarlet or other high-colored 
Yei'benas, Coleus, Gazanias, Scarlet Geraniums, Blue 
Lobelias, Lysimachia, or Golden Moneywort, may be 
used with excellent effect. By the use of hydraulic cement 
instead of lime, the rock-work can be made of a pleasing 
drab color. A rockery so formed and planted, without 
having any pretensions to being " natural," is always 
an interesting and attractive object on a well-kept lawn. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

INSECTS. 

There is no subject referred to in this volume, that 1 
feel so incompetent to discuss as that of insects. ISTot 
that our experience with the pests has not been ample 
enough, but all the knowledge obtained from that expe- 
rience leaves us at times utterly helpless to prevent their 
ravages, particularly on plants grown out of doors. Un- 



208 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

der glass we may say that tliey are entirely under c(»ntrol, 
and I have always considered that no better evidence of the 
incompetency of the person in cliarge of a green-houso 
could be had, than to see the plants covered with insects. 

The most annoying of all insects of the flower garden, 
is the 

Rose Slug", Selcmdna Hosce^ a light green, translucent 
little fellow, varying from 1-16 of an inch to nearly an inch 
in length. There are evidently two species or varieties, 
one of which confines its ravages to the lower side of the 
leaf; the other eats it entire. The first is by far the most 
destructive here. In a few days after the plants are at- 
tacked they appear as if they had been burned. 

The only remedy we have found is a preventive one, 
which, in fact, ouscht to be used agjainst all insect life. Be- 
fore the leaves of the roses appear, just as soon as the 
buds begin to develop, apply whale oil soap, in the pro- 
portion of one lb. to eight gallons of water ; this, stead- 
ily applied for ten days, with a syringe or garden engine, 
has, in my experience, entirely prevented the attacks of 
the insect. But once let it get a foothold and it can hardly 
be driven off by this application, unless it be made strong 
enough to injure the foliage, making the remedy worse 
than the disease. The species of Rose Slug that eats the 
entire leaf seems to confine its depredations more to 
young plants, and later in the season. We have found it 
quite troublesome in June and July among our young roses, 
which had been planted out in May and June, and as 
these were young and tender plants, the whale oil soap 
remedy could not safely be applied; so we have often 
had acres of young roses covered by myriads of these slugs, 
before they were observed, and nothing could be done ex- 
cept to shake the plants, and kill the insects when they fell 
to the ground. In the summer of 1866, we had some 
nine or ten boys shaking the plants and killing the slugs, 
for upwards of a week, and by this means saved our crop 



INSECTS. 209 

of roses. Last season (1868), we had a whole army 
of voUmtecT exterminators, in the thousands of English 
Sparrows that have recently favored us with their pres- 
ence, and which we feed and house with the greatest care 
during winter. We observed immense flocks of them 
actively engaged for days in picking up something in our 
rose beds, and had imagined it to be seeds obtained, from 
the refuse hops, that we had used as a mulching. At times 
we felt inclined to believe that they would pick the 
tender leaves of the rose, to use by way of a salad, having 
always believed them to be strictly " vegetarians," or seed 
eaters. Finding, however, that we were less troubled with 
the Rose Slug that season than usual, it occurred to me that 
perhaps we were indebted to our noisy, feathered friends 
for the immunity. To test the matter, a victim was nec- 
essary ; accordingly a plethoric looking fellow was shot, 
when, sure enough, his well-stuffed crop revealed seeds, 
Rose Slugs, and Aphis, or Green Fly, in great abundance, 
demonstrating beyond all question the great value of 
these birds as insect destroyers. 

The Rose Bug {Macrodactylis suhspinosus) , or Rose 
Chafer, as it is sometimes called, is so named from its at- 
tacking the buds or blossoms of the rose, in preference to 
anything else, although it is destructive to many other 
plants, particularly to the Dahlia, the flower of which it 
devours rapidly. All the ordinary remedies seem to fall 
harmlessly on the Rose Bug, and if not destroyed by 
hand its ravages cannot be stopped, unless our feather- 
ed friends come to the rescue ; whether they will be 
equally efiicacious in destroying the Rose Bug, I am un- 
able to say, although I am inclined to think they will. 
We have never yet been much troubled with them here, 
and so far have not had the opportunity of knowing 
whether the Sparrows feed on them or not. 

The Ground or Blue Aphis. — This is one of the most 
subtle and most dangerous of aU the pests with which wo 



210 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

have to contend in the cultivation of flowers. Hundreds of 
my amateur friends come to me year after year, with sor- 
rowful tales of their verbenas, asters, &c., which were pic- 
tures of health and beauty, but now are one after an- 
other sickening and dying, apparently without cause. But 
there was a cause, and one cause only. The Aphis was at 
work on the roots. But the remedy ? Alas ! almost hope- 
less at this stage of the disease. Still, as a physician 
must prescribe in all cases, we say that the only chance is 
an application of tobacco water, about the color of strong 
tea, applied copiously and persistently to the roots, for at 
least a week. 

We have occasionally saved all our stock by this reme- 
dy, when used at once, as soon as they were seen to be af- 
fected. Many species of plants are attacked by this insect. 
Asters, particularly, are much injured by it. In fact, when 
in excess, there is hardly a species of plant exempt from 
its attacks. We have often seen this Aphis clustering 
by thousands on the roots of melons and cucumbers, to 
the very points of the roots, a foot below the surface. 

The Green Fly, or Plant Louse, is not so hurtful in the 
open air as many other insects, and is easily got rid of 
either by syringing with whale oil soap or tobacco water, 
in the degrees of strength before named. 

The Red Spider is rarely seen in the open ground, ex- 
cept in a hot and dry atmosphere, when it is often very 
destructive in dry, sheltered gardens, during the months 
of July and August. Frequent syringings of whale oil 
soap will hold it in check. 

AntSi — Although these are not generally to be feared m 
the green-house or flower-garden, yet we have occasional- 
ly sufiered by them and have found the simplest way to 
destroy them to be to lay fresh bones around their haunts. 
They will leave everything else and attack these ; 
when thus accumulated, they can easily be destroyed by 
dipping in hot water. 



INSECTS. 211 

We now come to the insects which are troublesome 
under glass ; liere we have the means within our control 
to entirely prevent the two leading insects, Green J^li/and 
.Red Spider. In both cases, I have always contended 
that " an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of 
cui e." There is no neglect of the gardener or foreman in 
charge of green-houses which is so little excusable as 
allowing insects to injure his plants. 

Green Fly {Aphis) is prevented, (for I contend that it 
should never be seen, so that it need be destroyed), by 
fumigating with tobacco smoke, not less than twice each 
week. We do it in a manner much more simple and 
agreeable to the operator than is often practiced. Two 
or three times each week during the entire season at 
which our green-houses are filled witli plants, we use a 
small handful of shavings, on top of which we place about 
half a pound of tobacco stems, previously made damp. 
The shavings are lighted, and the fire being on the brick 
flooring, is left to take care of itself. We use this quanti- 
ty of tobacco to every 500 square feet of glass ; we burn thus 
five to six tons of tobacco stems every season, but we rarely 
see a green fly. We have occasionally seen this insect in- 
crease to such an extent in its difierent conditions, that fu- 
migation was powerless to destroy it, or rather it would 
have required it to be applied so strong, to dislodge the vast 
number of the enemy, that the plants would have been in- 
jured. The safer way to treat a desperate case of this 
kind is to brush the insect off* by hand, or with a soft 
brush ; this is a slow process, but an efiectual one. This 
condition of the plants can only be the result of utter neg- 
lect. The green fly-sometimes injures plants which stand 
too near together, so that the leaves get matted so closely 
thAt the fumes of the tobacco cannot penetrate. This is 
a condition, where recourse must be had to brushing the 
insects from the leaves, and, if possible, spreadmg the 
plants, so that the air can pass freely among them. 



212 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Tlie Red Spider is rather a more insidious enemy than 
the green fly, and far more tenacious of life, and often 
does much mischief before its presence has become known. 
The experienced gardener, of course, should not only be 
able to detect its Dresence, but also to discover the at- 
mosphere favorable to its production. A dry and hot at- 
mosphere, so dry that few plants can long continue in 
health in it, is such an one as this pest delights to revel 
in. Such an atmosphere in hot-house or green-house 
is thus doubly hurtful to plant life, and therefore should 
never be allowed. The remedies are simple; if there is 
not time for syi'inging, let water be thrown copiously on 
the paths, under and on the benches, place pans filled 
with water on the flue or pipes, or use any other means that 
may suggest itself, to counteract the aridity of the air, 
due to heavy firing in winter, or hot, dry days in spring 
or summer. Therefore, as in the case of the green fly, if 
proper preventives are used, the red spider need never be 
seen in the green-house. 

The red spider is an exceedingly minute insect, so 
small that it is a mere sj^eck when seen by the naked eye, 
but when closely examined, may be seen moving with 
great rapidity. Though minute in themselves the presence 
of these insects may be quickly detected, by the upper 
side of the leaves becoming browned, though, as a general 
thing, their ravages are confined to the under side of the 
leaf. Parlor plants are often subject to this insect, as it 
is not convenient to give the necessary moisture, and 
the only remedy in such cases, if tlie collection is not too 
numerous, is sponging the leaves. 

We often have woeful complaints fit)m our lady friends, 
that their plants all get brown and look sickly, and it re- 
quires but little thinking to divine what enemy is making 
ihe attack. 

The aphis, from its size, is quickly seen, and means 
may be used at once to destroy it, but this minute red 



ITSTSECTS. 213 

pest may be sapping the life of a plant for weeks before it 
is discovered. Amateur cultivators generally expect to 
see something more tangible in a spider, if they have 
heard of the red dragon at all, and are often hard to 
convince, that this minute insect is the cause of so much 
disaster. 

I will relate a rather ludicrous incident, to show that 
some even of larger experience may become possessed of 
that notion. 

Some twelve years ago, I had in my employment an 
active young Irishman, who, by showing more than ordi- 
nary energy, quickly passed through the diiferent grades, 
until he was duly installed as foreman ; at that time we 
had been firing a Camellia house, and by neglect of keep- 
ing a properly moist atmosphere, the red spider had 
made sad inroads. John was duly instructed to syringe 
the plants, night and morning, to destroy it, which he 
did; no doubt 'witli a double object in view, as the sequel 
will show. John was on all occasions rather demon- 
strative, but one morning he came rushing towards me, 
his face radiant with triumph, with his hat off, but 
clasped in his hands, in a careful manner, evidently 
havino; somethingj of no common value within it. Before 
I had time to inquire what was the cause of his excite- 
ment, he yelled out "I've got him! bedad ! I've got 
him at last !" " What have you got ?" I enquired, expect- 
ing to see something in the way of a rat or mouse. 
" Arrah, the big divil himself, the blaggard that has been 
doin' us all the mischief, the Reed Sphider!" and oj)ening 
his hat, a villainous Tarantula-looking fellow ran out, 
bigger than a thousand red spiders, which was quickly des- 
patched by John's brogan. From that time John learn- 
ed to know what the red spider was, but was never anx- 
ious to allude to it afterwards. 

The Verbena Mite, another pest most disastrous in 
its ravages on the Verbena, Heliotrope Petunia, Pelaiv 




214 PRACTICAL FT.ORICITLTUR"E. 

gonium, and various other plants, is so small that it 
cannot be seen by the naked eye ; but it produces what 
is known as " black rust," a disease that in many parts 
of the country has made the cultivation of these plants, 
particularly the Verbena, almost impossible. 

Viewed by a powerful microscope, this insect, mag- 
nified 400 times, appears of the size given 
in fig. 68 ; it moves with great rapidity, 
and can only be examined as it stops to 
feed. When this little pest has once got 
a foothold, all direct remedies to dislodge 
him seem to be powerless; the fumes of 
tobacco, so destructive to the aphis, or of 
^^' ^' suljjhur, which is death to the spider, fall 
harmlessly on this microscopic insect. 

There is hardly a doubt but that the fumes of sulphur 
or tobacco would destroy it, if it had not the pov/er of 
imbedding itself in the leaf. This is evidently the case, 
as on subjecting affected plants to a severe fumigation 
with tobacco for 30 minutes no insects could be discerned 
on the leaves; but after a short time they again appeared 
on the field of the microscope, apparently unscathed. 
Now, although we have no direct remedy against this in- 
sect, which produces the black rust, we have, I think, a 
preventive, by keeping the plants in that healthy condi- 
tion which seems to be repellant to its attack. For the 
means used to get that healthy condition, see article 
on the culture of the Verbena, which is, with slight modi- 
fications, equally applicable to all other plants affected 
by this insect. 

The microscope reveals that this particular species, 
which is so destructive to our Verbena, Heliotrope, Petu- 
nia, and scores of other plants cultivated in the green- 
house or garden, is the same or closely resembles that 
which gives the roughness to particular parts of the bark 
of cherry, plum, and peach trees, and no doubt is to be 



INSECTS. 215 

found on thousands of other varieties of the vegetable 
kingdom, whenever a lessened vitality takes place. Cor- 
roborative of this view, I had a lot of about 500 plants 
of Heliotrope growing in 2-inch pots in one of our green- 
houses last fall, one-half of which were, in September, 
shifted into 3-inch pots, to be reserved for stock plants. 
They were kept side by side and treated in all respects the 
same. Those shifted, of course, with increased food, 
grew vigorously and strong, while the unshifted remained 
comparatively stunted, and to-day, December 1st, the 
"black rust" shows itself on nearly every plant, and the 
microscope shows on every affected leaf hundreds of 
these insects, feeding like sheep on a pasture field, while 
on the shifted plants none whatever can be found. This 
is only one of hundreds of cases which yearly come un- 
der our observation, to prove that, from whatever cause the 
vital action of a plant is impaired, it is placed in the con- 
dition which in a greater or less degree invites the attack 
of parasitic fungi (mildew) or insects. 

Mealy Bu^, as it is familiarly termed, is a white, mealy, 
or downy-looking insect, often very troublesome in the 
hot-house ; it is quickly destroyed by a solution of 1 lb. 
of whale oil soap to five gallons of water ; but, as it often 
attacks plants of the most tender kinds, that are liable to 
be injured even by this weak mixture, it is not safe for 
inexperienced hands to use it before experimenting on its 
strength, and perhaps the safest method is simply to 
brush off the insects with a soft brush, made for the 
purpose. 

Brown and White Scale Insects. — These are less in- 
jurious and less common to plants than any of the pre- 
ceding, and are generally found in dark or ill-ventilated 
green-houses, adhering to the stems and under part of the 
leaves of hard-wooded plants. The best remedy is wash- 
ing, or brushing them off by hand ; fumigating, and the 



216 PRACTICAL FLORICTTLTTTRE. 

different solutions destructive to aphis, &g., falling harm- 
lessly on these. 

Thrips is an active insect,varying in size from that hard 
ly perceptible by the naked eye, to the size of the green 
fly, and varying in color from whitish-yellow to dark 
brown ; it is a jumping insect, very active in its move- 
ments, and when it once gets a foothold is very destruct- 
ive. It succumbs to tobacco smoke, but not so quickly 
as does the green fly. It luxuriates in shaded situations, and 
is generally found where plants are standing too thickly to- 
gether,or where the ventilation or light of the green-house 
has been deficient. I think it may be safe to assert that 
in any well-regulated green-house or hot-house no injury 
from insects will ever become serious, if proper attention 
to syringing and fumigating has been given. Syring- 
ing, or other means of keeping a moist atmosphere, 
must never be neglected for a day, and fumigating by 
tobacco smoke should be done, at the least, once each 
week. This has been our own practice for nearly twenty 
years, and we rarely ever see an insect in our green- 
houses. 

The "farnation Twitter." — 'This is an insect but little 
known, and called in this district only by its local ^lame 
of " Carnation Twitter," given from its rapid and nervous 
motion. As seen by the naked eye it is about the twen- 
tieth part of an inch in length, and of a thickness not 
more than that of a cambric needle. It is of various 
shades of color, from green to black ; it is never very 
numerous on the plants, but most destructive and evidently 
poisonous in its attacks on all varieties of the Carnation 
and Pinks. 

Its effects on the Carnation somewhat resemble those 
of .the red spider, except that when attacked by the 
" Twitter," the leaves have a cankered and twisted ap- 
pearance, easily distinguishable from the browning 
effects of the spider. When Carnations or Pinks get 



INSECTS. 217 

infested by this insect, all remedies to dislodge it 
seem futile. We have lost thousands of plants in a 
season by its attacks. It seems, however, to infest light 
or sandy soil more than heavy loam or clay, and seems, 
also, to be intermittent in its attacks, often not being seen 
for three or four years in succession, and again returning 
and destroying all in its path. In our light, sandy soil 
at Jersey City we suffered severely from it, but for 
five years, in our heavy, clayey soil in Bergen, it has rarely 
been seen. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

ARE PLANTS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH ? 

If physicians are asked if plants are injurious to health, 
three out of six will reply that they are. 

They will generally follow up the reply by a learned 
disquisition on horticultural chemistry ; will tell you that 
at night plants give out carbonic acid, which is poisonous 
to animal life, and consequently if we sleep in a room 
where plants are kept, we of necessity inhale this gas, 
and sickness will follow. These worthies generally suc- 
ceed in their specious reasoning, and the poor plants, that 
have bloomed gaily all summer, are often consigned to 
the coal cellar, for their winter's quarters, if given quar- 
ters at all. No theory can be more destitute of truth ; 
that plants give out carbonic acid may be, but that it is 
given out in quantities sufficient to affect our health in the 
slightest degree is utter nonsense. 

No healthier class of men can be found than green- 
house operators, which makes me sometimes think that 
plants have a health-giving effect rather than otherwise. 
But doctors may tell us that our workmen are only at work 
in the day-time, and that it is at night that the carbonic acid 



218 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

is emitted. Here we meet them by the information that in 
most cases the gardener in charge of green-honses often 
has to be up the greater part of the night in winter, and 
the green-house, from its warmth, is universally taken as 
his sitting-room, and sometimes as his bed-room ; such 
was my own experience for three winters. I had charge 
of a large amount of glass, situated nearly a mile fi-om my 
boarding-house, too far to go and come at midnight, with 
the thermometer below zero. Our means of heating were 
entirely inadequate, so that the fires had to be looked to 
every three or four hours. Disregarding all my kind- 
hearted employer's admonitions, I nightly slept on the 
floor of the hot-house, which was rank with tropical 
growth. The floor was just the place to inhale the gas, 
if there had been much to inhale. It did not hurt me, 
however, and has not yet, and that is a score of years 
ago. That plants are injurious to health in sleeping- 
rooms is one of the bugbear assertions that is willingly 
swallowed by the gullible portion of the community, always 
ready to assign .efiects to some tangible cause, and this, as 
the assertion evinces some chemical lore, is one very prev- 
alent among those disciples of Esculapius who are 
always willing to be thought learned in the science so 
intimately connected with their profession. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

NATURE'S LAW OF COLORS. 



It has long been a belief among students in vegetable 
physiology, that, in certain families of plants, particular 
colors prevail, and that in no single instance can we ever 
expect to see blue, yelloio, and scarlet colors in varieties 
of the same species ; yet, undeviating as this law seems 



nature's law of colors. 219 

to be, it is astonishing to see the credulity that there 
is, even among intelligent horticulturists, some of whom 
believe that we will yet have exceptions to this law, which, 
as far as all our experience has gone, seems as unaltei'able 
as the law of gravitation. If we reflect, we will find 
there is nothing out of the usual order of nature in this 
.uniformity. The coloring given to the plumage of birds 
is as unvarying as that given to the petals of a flower in 
particular families. The most enthusiastic poultry fan- 
cier will look in vain for the scarlet plumage of the Fla- 
mingo in his Dorkings or Brahmas, or the color of the Balti- 
more Oriole in the occupants of his pigeon-house. What 
more reason, then, has the florist to expect that Nature 
should deviate from her fixed course, and gladden his 
eyes with a Rose or Dahlia of an azure hue, or that a Ver- 
bena or a Petunia should be produced of a golden shade ? 

A knowledge of this subject is much needed by our 
amateur horticulturists, who are imposed upon year 
after year by itinerant dealers, who with flaming color- 
ed drawings of these impossibilities in floriculture ex- 
tract largely from the pockets of their victims, and in addi- 
tion expose them to the ridicule of their less credulous or 
more cautious neighbors. The audacity of these scamps 
is truly astonishing; not a season passes but some of them 
have the impudence to plant themselves right in the busi- 
ness centres of the city of New York, and hundreds of 
our sharp business men have for the consideration of |8 
or $10, believed themselves to be the- possessors of verita- 
ble blue Roses. Need I say that they were no less humbug- 
ged than the rustic who falls into the hands of a mock 
auctioneer, and chuckles to think that he has become 
the possessor of a gold watch for a similar price? 

In Rand's " Flowers for the Parlor and Garden," page 
101, in remarking on the colors of the Verbena, he says a 
good yellow Verbena has not yet been produced, but 
goes on to say that he, " by q, (3uyiQUS process of water- 



220 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

in2 and fertilization with a white Verbena, obtained a 
seedling which proved on blooming to be of a light straw 
color; but the plant was loeaMy and sicTcly^ and died be- 
fore cuttings could be taken." This " weakly " and " sick- 
ly " condition was exactly why Mr. Rand obtained his 
straw color ; had the plant been in health it, no doubt, 
would have been only an impure white. 

There are few florists of any experience who have not 
raised hundreds of just such "straw colors" inYerbenas from 
white, that have been weak and sickly^ for we all know 
that the want of vitality in the plant imparts a jaundiced 
hue to white flowers. 

It is hardly fair in Mr. Rand to withhold from us what 
that " curious process of watering and fertilization " was, 
by which he succeeded in bringing into existence what De 
CandoUe, Lindley, and Loudon, have said can never be. 
When a man writes a book for the information of the 
public nothing should be held in reserve; his readers have 
a right to every " secret " that he may possess connected 
with the subject, and this reservation of Mr. Rand in so 
very interesting a matter is tantalizing in the extreme. 
Who knows but if he had given us the modus operandi 
of his "curious process of watering and fertilization" 
our Verbena beds would have long since had a golden 
yellow flaunting side by side with scarlet and blue, or 
that the same " curious process of watering and fertiliza- 
tion " applied to the Rose, would have produced a color 
rivalling a blue-bird in April ? 

It is much to be regretted that Mr. Rand's yellow Ver- 
bena was lost, but we trust that the " curious process " 
by which it was produced is not among the lost arts. If 
an application of it can be made to produce a positively 
yellow Verbena, the gentleman will receive the honors of 
the wliole horticultural world, and, if he chooses, can 
pocket 8ome thousands of dollars. 



PACKING PLANTS. 221 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

PACKING PLANTS. 

As commercial floriculture is now becomins: a mattei 
of importance, it will be interesting to many of oui 
readers to know the modes of packing for shipment. 
Durmg February, March, April, and May last, (1873) 
it is estimated that ten tons daily were received at the 
different express offices in New York, of the products of 
the green-house only. These were to be distributed through- 
out the length and breadth of the land, shipments being 
successfully made to the most extreme points in every di- 
rection. The system o^ packing adopted for even the 
most distant orders is of the simplest kind, differing en- 
tirely from that in use by the English or French, and is a 
result, like many other of our operations, of the necessi- 
ties forced upon us by the want of labor. By our system 
of packing, we ship plants almost every day from January 
15th to June 15th, throughout the coldest weather in winter 
and the sultry days of summer, with hardly a case of injury, 
either from freezing or by heat. For the cold season we 
use close boxes, placing a layer of 4 inches of soft, dry hay 
on the bottom ends, sides, and top of the box. Whenever 
the ball of roots is sufficiently firm, the plant is taken 
from the pot, and each plant wrapped in paper, or rather 
the ball or root of the plant is wrapped, leaving most of 
the top uncovered. This wrapping in paper not only 
serves to keep the ball from breaking, but it also, to some 
extent, prevents the pressure of the plants upon each other. 
In packing the plants in the box, they are placed com- 
})actly in layers, alternated with an inch or two of soft hay 
until the box is full. The utmost care is necessary to 
pack the box entirely full, so that no movement can 
take place ir the plants should the boxes be roughly hand- 
led. The soil should be always rather dry than other- 
wise, as packed in this close manner the plants will not suffer 



222 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

for want of moisture. Boxes of medium size are best; 
we never like to use a box of greater capacity than the 
ordinary flour barrel, usually prefering such as are cne- 
tbird smaller than that. If the box is too large, the plants 
may be injured by mutual pressure. 

This is our method of packing as long as there is danger 
from frost, or until the middle of March. From the mid- 
dle of March to the middle of April, we use a box of a 
different character, open on all sides to admit air, for now 
the danger to be avoided is from heat and not from cold. 
The manner of packing is in all other respects the same, 
except that no more hay is used around the inside of the 
box than necessary to make a soft bed for the plants. If 
the closely packed plants have any tendency to generate 
heat, it will be counteracted by the admission of air 
through the openings in the box. Again, we gradually 
make a change in our style of packing to suit the advanc- 
ing season. For small orders, a light kind of chip basket 
is used, in which the plants are packed in the man- 
ner above described, and strapped over the top with hay. 
We find a basket a most convenient and satisfactory arti- 
cle to pack in, as its open-work sides freely admit the air. 
In baskets weighing less than two pounds, we pack from 
100 to 150 plants. Being annoyed at having frequently 
to pay for clumsy, heavy packages in which our new im- 
portations were received from England, I took occasion to 
send over to a London nurseryman some fifty plants packed 
in one of these baskets, the whole basket and contents weigh- 
ing only 15 lbs., and with two exceptions every plant was re- 
ceived alive. I implored the gentleman to pack the plants 
he was to send me in return in similar light baskets, as it 
would not only save freight but, what was of far more 
importance, save me the plants alive. He sent them in 
baskets, sure enough, each one weighing of itself 40 lbs., 
— a shapeless, ponderous affair, that with its contents re- 
quired two men to lift it into a wagon. This was not the 



PLAN IS BY MAIL. 223 

worst of it ; three-fourths of the plants were dead — our 
usual experience in shipments of plants from Europe. This 
loss is, without doubt, in most cases occasioned by the 
cumbrous manner of packing. 

When the weather becomes settled, so that all danger 
of plants being chilled is over, we change our mode of 
packing the plants from laying them down to standing 
them upright in the baskets or boxes, beginning with the 
heaviest plants at the bottom of the box or basket, and 
placing each succeeding layer, to the depth of three or 
four, one ball of roots on the top of the other. After 
packing, the box or basket is watered freely, each plant, 
or at least a portion of it, is exposed to the light, and thus 
packed, they will remain ten or twelve days without injury. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

PLANTS BY MAIL. 

Our postal laws admit plants, seeds, and bulbs, to be 
sent at the cost of two cents for four ounces, provided the 
package does not exceed four pounds in weight. This ar- 
rangement has been the means of sending seeds and plants 
into regions where they would not for many years have 
been procurable with other means of conveyance, and the 
projector of the idea deserves the gratitude of the nation 
for it. A number of different contrivances have been 
invented for packing plants to go by mail, including 
boxes of various styles and dimensions ; the main difficulty 
with all that we have seen is the weight. Of late years 
we have dispensed with boxes of all kinds, and pack in the 
following manner. Having selected the plants, choosing 
such as are small but well rooted, the soil is washed from 



224 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

eacli plant, leaving the fibres of the roots uninjured. A 
layer of dry moss half an inch thick is then spread on two or 
three thicknesses of thick brown paper ; tlie plants are then 
laid on the moss, a similar layer of moss is laid over the 
the roots, and the paper, moss, and plants, are tightly rolled 
up. The dry moss absorbs the water from the dripping 
roots, so that thus tightly enclosed, sufiicient moisture is 
enveloped in the packages to keep the plants safe for a 
week, provided that the package has been firmly wrapped 
up. Either additional paper, sufiicient to keep in the 
moisture, or oiled silk, should be used for the outer cover- 
ing. This process is so simple that any lady may transmit 
to another some favorite plant or cutting, a distance of 2,000 
miles, if necessary, at little cost. Where moss is not pro- 
curable, raw cotton will answer the same purpose ; the 
only danger to be avoided is in rolling up the package too 
loosely, in which case the dry air will penetrate and will 
be likely to shrivel up the plants. No injury will result 
to the plants by tight wrapping, provided cotton or moss has 
been placed above and below the roots in sufficient quantity. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE. 

It is much easier to estimate the profits of the product 
of the soil, be it in fruits or vegetables, than to define 
by any certain rule what the profits of our green-house 
floriculture are. In fact, we can only approximate to it, be- 
cause the conditions in which the operations are carried 
on at different places, or the different articles grown, make 
anything like a general average for the whole country im* 



THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE. 225 

possible. But, as we have heretofore done, we will confine 
ourselves to the district of New York, which may be taken 
at the present time as a fair representation of the whole 
country. 

The capital required in starting this department of hor- 
ticulture I consider need not be so much as in that of 
either nursery, vegetable, or fruit growing, and the 
chances of moderate success I believe, from my observa- 
tions, to be far greater. I say moderate success, for the 
chances of making a colossal fortune in this are by no 
means so great as in the regular nursery business, while 
to offset this the chances of failure are less, and the busi- 
ness is pleasanter and less exhaustive to follow. I have 
hardly ever known a man who started in the florist's busi- 
ness to f lil, unless he brought failure on himself by his 
own imprudence; while I have known scores to fail in the 
vegetable and nursery business, from causes entirely be- 
yond their control. A frugal man, with a knowledge of 
the business and $1,000 capital, may safely start in this 
vicinity, or in any vicinity where there is a town of 10,000 
inhabitants of average intelligence and culture. But the 
difficult question with all at starting is how to make that 
$1,000 best available. Of course expensive erections, such 
as we have described in the chapter on green-house struc- 
tures, are beyond his means, and something cheaper must 
be adopted. The general principle on which these green- 
houses are formed is in all respects the same, and the 
beginner with limited means, instead of erecting three 
Ihouses, need erect only one, which should not be more than 
j50 feet long and of a width of 11 feet in the clear. The 
proportions of height, &c., will be found in the drawing 
on page 52. The sides may be formed of cedar or chest- 
nut posts planked to the required height, having a lining 
of tarred paper between the boards. In this way, at 
present prices, a structure of this kind with flue, benches 
and all complete need not cost more than six or eight dollars 



226 PRACTICAL PLOEICULTUBE. 

per running foot, or $300 or $400 for a house of 50 feet. 
But something else will be needed besides the house, and 
sunken pits or cold frames should be erected parallel with 
the east side of the gi-een-house and connected with it. A por- 
tion, say half, of these, should be excavated to the depth 
of 2 feet, and used as a sunken pit for Koses, &c., as de- 
scribed in the chapter on Roses; the cold frame portion, 
which is not sunken but made level with the soil, can be 
used to grow the hardier sorts of flower.^, as Pansies, Dai- 
sies, Pinks, &c. I here again repeat that the Rose, unless 
grown to force for winter flowers, is easily injured by fire 
heat, which it must necessarily receive if placed in the 
green-house, in which are grown a variety of plants that re- 
quire fire heat. 

These pits and cold frames should be covered up care- 
fully, either with shutters or mats, during severe weathe? 
in winter, and care taken that all water is thoroughly 
drained ofi" from them. These sunken pits and cold 
frames of 25 feet each will cost say $100, which, togeth- 
er with the purchase of stock and coal to last through 
the winter, would make the expenditure to this date, No- 
vember, $600 or $700, leaving $300 or $400 for expenses in 
winter, or until sales open in spring. If the plants 
have been handled with even average skill, the sales 
should by June give a profit of at least 50 per cent on 
the capital invested, supposing the plants to be sold at the 
average retail rates. 

I am not prepared to say what the profits on the capita] 
invested are when business is done on a large scale, the 
articles grown, the manner of selling, and economy of 
management, being so varied that in this, as in all other 
occupations in life, we have all degrees of success. But the 
broad fact is beyond question that the profits of the business 
will compare favorabJy with the general run of business 
in which the same capital is invested. 

One fact, very flattering to our florists in this country 



THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE. 227 

is, that although our plants on an average are sold lowei 
than tbey are in England, and our new plants at less than 
one-fourth of the prices obtained there, the business is 
more profitable here than there. Why is this? the reader 
may doubtingly ask. Simply that our necessities with re- 
gard to labor compel us to apply our common sense to the 
work, and we cut loose from many of the established rules 
with which English florists are yet stupidly trammelled. 

In two of the leading London establishments, having each 
about 50,000 feet of glass, the average number of hands 
employed during the year is fifty. The same quantity of 
glass would be worked here in a style quite equal to 
theirs, as far as the quality of the plants goes, with less 
than one-third of that number. I am informed by a gen- 
tleman who was for many years connected with one of 
these English establishments, that the profits did not ex- 
ceed 10 per cent of the sales. I am afraid that the small- 
est operator of us all here would soon quit the work if it 
gave no better results. 

What is true of the florist's business I believe to be equal- 
ly true of the nursery trade, and it is much to be doubted 
if that business anywhere in all Europe is so simply yet 
profitably carried on as it is in the great nurseries of 
Rochester and Geneva. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

HOW TO BECOME A FLORIST. 

I am often asked the question if it is necessary in order 
to become a florist to enter some large establishment 
for a few years, or whether it is possible to learn 
from reading only. I reply. If it can be afforded, it will 
be best by all means to serve at least two years in 



228 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTURE. 

some well-conducted establishment — one that has been 
long enough established to have made the business a suc- 
cess, for the best index of ability in any business is suc- 
cess. I have said, if it can be aiforded, as for the first 
two years, unless a youth prove himself unusually smart, 
he will not likely receive more than enough to pay his 
board, for he is simply an apprentice under instructions, 
who has come with the design of leaving when he has 
acquired a knowledge of the trade, and just at the time 
that he begins to be of use to his employe^-. 

But to those to whom it would be inconvenient to place 
themselves thus under instructions, a knowledge of the 
business could be unquestionably obtained from books, 
particularly if actual practice were followed conjointly 
with the reading. There are upward of a hundred of my 
patrons (about one tenth of whom are ladies), located in 
nearly every State of the Union, who have worked them- 
selves intD the florists' business exclusively by reading 
and their own practice, having had no opportunity for 
other instruction. In not a few cases some of these have 
got ahead of what is known as professional gardeners, 
those who have had no other experience than that received 
in private gardens in Europe, which by no means fits them 
for the American style of commercial floriculture. The 
increase of taste for flowers for the past twenty years has 
been truly wonderful. A gentleman who has a turn for 
statistics in this particular line, informed me that he had 
begun to procure information from all parts of the coun- 
try of the numbers engaged in the trade together with 
the capital employed. He said that his investigations for 
this locality, taken in the rough, extending in a radius of 
ten miles from the center of New York Island, proved 
that the number of florists' establishments was about five 
hundred, and the capital used in stock and structures 
upwards of $6,000,000. If the number of establishments 
is nearly correct — and there is no reason to doubt it — I 



SOFT-WOODED OK BEDDING PLANTS. 229 

am certain that the vahie is not overestimated, as we have 
at least half a dozen establishments where the capital 
used in stock and buildings must be nearly $100,000 each. 
And this, too, in New York and its suburbs, where the 
taste is lower than it is in either Boston or Philadelphia. 
In those places, no doubt, their excellent horticultural 
societies have done much to refine the tastes of the people, 
and it is to be regretted that neither New York nor its 
adjacent cities, with probably over two millions of people, 
have a single horticultural or floricultural society. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING 
PLANTS OF THE LEADING KINDS. 

Antirrhinum majus, (Snap Dragon), now comprises 
varieties of all shades and markings ; in colors of yellow, 
white, crimson, scarlet-orange, rose, etc. A dwarf style 
does not exceed six inches in height. Grown from seed 
or cuttings. 

Bouvardia tripliylla. — An orange-scarlet, summer- 
blooming variety. See Winter-Flowering Plants. 

Begonias. — See Winter-Flowering Plants. 

Calceolarias, Shrubby. — Plants blooming from June to 
October in the open ground ; colors ranging from light 
yellow to deep crimson. Grown from seed or cuttings. 

Calceolarias, Herbaceous. — ^These are grown from seed 
sown in August or September, and when well grown, 
form j^lants of great beauty and interest for the green- 
house, in April and May. Their pocket-like flowers are 
finely spotted, and embrace a great range of color. 
Plants of the dwarf varieties do not exceed one foot in 
diameter, and are favorites with all lovers of flowers. 

Canna Indica, and varieties. — Plants of majestic 
growth, well adapted, for grouping on lawns. The roots 



230 PRACTICAL FLOKICTJLTURE. 

are dug up in fall, and kept as we preserve Dahlias. Pro- 
pagation, division of the root or by seeds. See p. 86. 

Carnations, Monthly. — These, when planted out, bloom 
profusely from July to November. See Plants for Win- 
ter-Flowering. 

Cinerarias. — The treatment is the same as for Her- 
baceous Calceolarias, to which they form an excellent 
contrast as green-house ornaments in spring. 

Colens Verschaffeltii and others are ojrown as beddinsr 
plants for their foliage only. Theie are now scores of varie- 
ties, all of which require a temperature in winter of not 
lower than 60° ; with less than that there will be much dif- 
licidty in keeping them. Being tender, tliey should not 
be planted out for bedding purposes until the weather 
has become settled and warm. Proj^agation by cuttings. 

Caladium CSCUlentum. — A plant with enormous shield- 
shaped leaves, which often measure 30 by 20 inches. The 
plant attains a height of 5 or 6 feet, and is a striking ob- 
ject when planted on a lawn. There are numerous other 
Caladiums with beautifully shaded and spotted leaves, 
grown as stove plants. 

Clirysantlieiimms, Chinese. — These consist of three 
classes, the Large Flowering^ the Pompone or Bouquet^ 
and the Japanese. 

There is no plant that we cultivate, with the exception 
perhaps, of the Dahlia, that assumes such an extended 
range of color — crimson, orange, yellow, pink, white, 
carmine, and purple, being blended in every conceivable 
shade. Cuttings planted out in May will produce, by 
topping, large, bushy plants that will bloom in October ; 
they are entirely hardy in this latitude, and will stand 
with slight covering, which should be put on late in fall, 
say December 15th, in the extreme ISTorthern States. 
They are often lifted and potted in fall, and form hand- 
some green-house or parlor plants until December. 

Delphiniums, or Larkspurs. — The perennial varieties of 



SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 231 

these can nearly all be used as continued summer-bloom- 
ing bedding plants, if the seed is sown in a hot-bed or 
grcen-liouse in February, and the plants put out in the 
open border in May. Their great value consists in their 
rare shades of blue, a color always scarce in flowers. 
Well-known varieties are D. hicolor grandiflorum, figure 
50, and D. forrnGsum^ of deep mazarine blue ground, 
with distinct spot in the centre of each floret. All thp 
perennial species and varieties ai-e hardy. Figure 50 
shows reduced spikes and a single flower of the natural size. 

Dahlias* — The climate of the Eastern and North-west- 
ern States is better adapted to the early development of 
the flowers of the Dahlia than warmer latitudes, and 
thus we find that though the frosts occur here earlier in 
fall, yet the season of flowering is of longer duration than 
in districts where the fall frosts are later in coming ; hence 
the climate of Boston or New York is better for Dahlias 
than that of Baltimore or Washington. The perfection 
that is attained, both in form and color of the Dahlia, 
is now wonderful. They are divided into four classes, 
namely : 
Bedding. — Dwarf, profuse-flowering sorts, that are pruned 

down so that they do not exceed a foot in height. 
Bouquet or Pompone. — The flowers of many of these 

do not exceed 1^ inches in diameter, and are perfect 

models in form. 

Exhibition or Snow. — The large-:&owered, self-colored, or 

tii)ped varieties. 
Fancy. — The striped or speckled kinds. 

Dahlias are propagated by division of the tuber, or (as 
done by florists) by cuttings. Plant out when all danger 
of frost is over, in rich soil 3 or 4 feet apart, thin out 
Eupeifluous shoots, and tie to strong stakes; lift in fall 
when cut down by frost, and keep in a dry, warm cellar, or 
under the stage of a green-house, only in such a position 



232 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

that they will not be dried too much. Araatears, to be 
safe, should first dry them well, and then pack them in 
boxes in dry sand. 

Fuchsias are the most graceful of all cultivated plants. 
Nothing, in our opinion, can surpass the beauty of well- 
grown specimens. They are of the easiest culture ; plants 
rooted from cuttings in January can be grown with ease 
to 6 feet in heiglit in June, by due attention to repotting as 
the plants make root. When grown as specimens, at 
least half tlie soil should be rotted cow manure or rotted 
refuse hops. They are also well adapted as bedding 
plants for the flower-garden, in cool and partially shaded 
situations. The dark-flowered varieties are best fitted for 
beddinfj. There are also a few winter-flowerinoj sorts 
described in chapter on Winter Flowering Plants. One 
of the most beautiful of the newer varieties, " Day Dream," 
is represented in figure 51. 

^eraniumS; botanically speaking, are nearly all hardy, 
herbaceous plants, a short list of which will be found un- 
der that head ; but Gersimnjns popidai'li/ known as such 
are those that are about to be described, and we believe 
that a large majority of our readers will agree with us in 
using the popular name, rather than the botanical one of 
Pelargonium. 

Geranium, Zonale. — Tliis is perhaps the best known 
type of the class, so called from the leaves of many of the 
varieties beins: marked with a dark band or zone. This is 
the bedding plant, par excellence, of the easiest propaga- 
tion by cuttings, always healthy and of free growth in 
almost all soils and situations, blooming in summer 
from June to October, and, if desired, it will continue 
its flowering in the green-house to June again. The va- 
rieties are endless, ranging in every shade of white, rose, 
crimson, scarlet, carmine, &c., &c. At the present 
time there are hundreds of double varieties, comprising 



SOFT-AVOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 233 

all the colors ; but there is little doubt that a short time 
will give us double sorts of all the shades we have in the 
single. A striped variety of L' Incomparable was pro- 
duced in 1867. Figure 52. 

Geraniums, Variegated-leaved. — These are divided in. 
to five classes, namely, " Golden margined," " Silver mar- 
gined," " Golden tricolor," '• Silver tricolor," and 
" Bronzed." 

Golden Margined. — This class, of which the variety 
called " Golden Belt " is the type, has the margin of the 
leaf golden yellow to one-third its depth, with occasional- 
ly a dark zone, the part of the leaf toward the footstalk 
being green. The flowers of this class are usually scarlet 
or crimson ; they are good bedders in cool soils. 

Silver Margined. — These are generally of strong 
growth, equal to the Zonale. One of the finest of this sec- 
tion is the Mountain of Snow, a variety liaving half of 
the leaf nearly white, with large trusses of bright scarlet 
flowers. 

Geraniums, Golden Tricolors. — These are grown al- 
most exclusively for their leaves, which in their wonderful 
beauty are triumphs of horticultural art. The bands of 
yellow, crimson, orange, and carmine, on a ground-work of 
green, rival, while they somewhat resemble, the tints of the 
rainbow. A well-known and beautiful type of this class is 
the variety Mrs. Pollock, fig. 53, which with us has grown 
vigorously in the open border for the past two seasons. 

Geraniums, Silver Tricolors. — These are belted with 
white, carmine, and crimson, on a green ground, forming 
a beautiful contrast to the preceding. A well-known typo 
of this class is " Moonbeam." 

Geraniums, Bronze-leaved. — An unique class, having 
the ground color of the leaves yellow, with a dark red or 
brown zone. The flowers of most of these are scarlet, and 



214 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

are borne in great profusion. About the finest of this 
section is known as Golden Model. 

Geraniums, Ivy-leaved. — Of these there are now many 
beautiful varieties. They are all climbing or trailing plants, 
some of which, Peltatum elegans, for example, have glossy 
green, wax-like leaves, with a black zone ; others, like the 
Holly Wreath, have leaves margin'ed with white, as in the 
silver margined zonales. The flowers are borne in large 
trusses of white, carmine, or lilac. All the class are well 
adapted for baskets or for trellis work. 

GerajStiums, Scented-leaved. — These embrace plants of 
widely different appearance, such as " Apple," " Lemon," 
"Citron," "Rose," "Peppermint," and " JSTutmeg- 
scented," with many others. The rose and lemon-scented 
arc extensively used for mixing with flowers in making 
bouquets, &c. 

Hollyhock. — ^For extensive grounds this is an exceed- 
ingly showy flower. The flower spike attains a height of 
six or eight feet, covered with flowers to the extent of 
two feet. The varieties embrace a great range of color — • 
white, scarlet, yellow, orange, crimson, rose, maroon, &c. — 
many having these colors cuiiously blended. The Holly- 
hock seeds freely from double flowers, the colors in almost 
every case comifig true from seeds. Seeds are to be sown 
when ripe in September, and the plants, if slightly pro- 
tected by covering with hay or leaves, will bloom profuse- 
ly the next season. 

Heliotropes. — These comprise but little range of color, 
being mostly shades of lilac and blue, some of the newer' 
sorts, however, being nearly white. What they want 
in gaudiness of color, they well compensate for in 
their delicacy of fragrance. The varieties are numerous, 
but many of them are not very distinct. Those forming 
the greatest contrast are Boule de Neige (blush white), 
and Purpurine, (dark violet.) 



SOFT-AVOODED Oil BEDDIN'G PLANTS. 235 

Lemon Verbena {Aloysia citriodora) is largely grown for 
the fragrance of the leaves, which are indispensable as a 
"green" in summer bouquets. The plant is deciduous, 
(losing its leaves in winter), and may be kept under the 
stage of the green-house, or in the cellar during winter. 
The Lemon Verbena makes a highly ornamental plant 
when grown like a standard Rose, that is, by allowing 
only one shoot to grow to a height of five or six feet, then 
permitting it to branch out at the top. 

Lantanas. — These require more heat, to keep them in 
good condition during the winter, than do most bedding 
plants, and for this reason are not so common as many 
others less worthy of cultivation. The colors are 
orange, yellow, pink, scarlet, crimson, and white, blend- 
ing and changing to a remarkable degree. Often 
different flowers growing on the same plant will be 
entirely unlike. Plants from cuttings set out in May or 
June attain a diameter of four or five feet by fall, bloom- 
ing profusely throughout the entire summer and fall 
months. 

Lobelia gracilis, and its varieties, are all low-growing 
j^lants, mostly with blue and white flowers, though some of 
the varieties of later date are lilac or rose color. They 
are admirably adapted for the front lines of "ribbon bord- 
ers," and for hanging baskets or vases; they bloom pro- 
fusely from June to November, and may be easily kept 
as parlor plants, if desired. 

Mimuius luteus (or Monkey Flower) comprises numer- 
ous varieties, with white, sulphur, and yellow grounds, 
beautifully spotted with crimson, scarlet, pink, &c. They 
luxuriate in damp, shady situations, and bloom profusely 
during the early summer months. A double variety, call- 
ed Hose-upon-hose, is a very remarkable sort. 

illimulus moscliatus (Musk Plant), is grown for itg 
odor of musk, which the leaves have in a marked degree. 
Flowers vol low. 



236 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

Pentstcmons, (Hybrids). — ^Plants yet comparatively lit- 
tle known. The plant in general appearance somewhat 
resembles the Antirrhinum (or Snap Dragon) but as- 
sumes an entirely different range of color, the flowers 
being carmine, violet, crimson, vermilion, and other shades 
of red, with a distinctly marked white throat in most of 
the varieties. They bloom throughout the summer 
months, and may be kept with half hardy plants in a cold 
frame in winter. 

Petunias^ (double and single) are now so well known 
that a description is hardly necessary. The single varie- 
ties, when wanted for bedding, make finer plants if raised 
from seed sown in January and February than from cut- 
tings. The double varieties, of course, are mainly raised 
from cuttings, but are more used by the florists as pot 
plants than for bedding purposes, as they flower less pro- 
fusely and are generally less showy than the single sorts. 

The most valued of the single sorts are those with white 
grounds, marked witli crimson blotches or stripes ; those 
of the double, with crimson ground with white-edged pet- 
als. There are numerous varieties kept to name, but the 
majority of them are of only local interest. 

Pinks, Florist's. — Hardy, evergreen, herbaceous plants, 
blooming in June. The prevailing colors are maroon, crim- 
son, rose, and white. They are much used in their season 
for summer bouquets, the flowers keeping well, besides 
being all of a rich clove-scented fragrance. 

Pinks, Mnle. — Similar in general character to the preced- 
ing, but having smaller flowers, entirely distinct in form 
and color. The varieties are few, and are known as the 
crimson, rose, white, and striped sorts. 

Pyrethrum Golden Feather. — A new plant, a " sport " 
from the well-known Pyrethrum Parthenium^ or Fever- 
few, having leaves, as the name indicates, of a golden 
shade. For baskets during winter or spring, or for a ribbon 



SOFT- WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 237 

line plant, to contrast with Coleus or Achyrantlies during 
the spring or fall months it is valuable. It, however, loses 
its rich shade of yellow during the hot weather, which 
rather mars its utility for bedding purposes. 

Pelargoniums. — If I was confined to grow but a single 
genus of plants for conservatory decoration, the Pelargo- 
nium would be chosen. Nothing can exceed the richness 
of coloring of the flowers ; an attempt to describe it would 
be a failure. They are classed as " show " and " fancy " 
varieties. The " show " are the strong-growing and large- 
flowered section ; the " fancy " are those with smaller 
leaves, dwarfer growth, and flowers of smaller size, but 
having the property of flowering later in the season than 
the others. The colors of the Pelargonium are carmine, 
vermilion, orange-crimson, blackish-maroon, and white, 
so disposed in many varieties as to resemble the work of 
the painter, rather than the work of nature. To be grown 
in perfection they should be shifted into larger pots as soon 
as the roots begin to mat the outside of the balls, the 
shoots pinched back until they begin to set their flower 
buds in March or April, when they must be placed close to 
the light, and never allowed to wilt for want of water. 
Plants struck from cuttings in January may be grown to 
a diameter of 2 feet by May, but for specimens of extra 
size, plants a year old are necessary. They should be kept 
in pots and under glass during summer, as they are very 
liable to injury from continued rains. 

Stocks, Intermediate f crimson and white. Seed of these 
sown in September, and potted in October, shifting as nec- 
essary through the winter, will make fine plants, to bloom 
in May. These may be planted out in the open border, 
and will continue in bloom until July. Ten Week's Stocks 
are also eflective as border plants, and may be sown in the 
hot- bed in March and planted out in May. The variety 
of ihese is now very large. 



2'i8 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

SalyiaSj (Scarlet and Blue Sage). — No plant that is used 
for the flower border holds a higher reputation amongst 
amateurs than these, particularly the former. Its bright 
scarlet, feather-like plumes are unrivalled from July to 
October, and in warmer latitudes continue for months 
later. It is best raised from seeds sown in the green-house 
or hot-bed in March and planted out in May. The blue 
sage (S. pateiis) seeds very sparingly, and is generally 
raised from cuttings. Its shade of blue is unsurpassed by 
any flower of the garden, but the flowers drop quickly 
and it never shows the density of spike of the scarlet 
sorts. A fine white variety was introduced last spring. 

Tuberose. — See special chapter. 

Tropceolum* Hybrids. (Nasturtiums.) — The dwarf sorts 
of these are very desirable, blooming without intermission 
from June to October. The scarlet varieties, in particular, 
are exceedingly showy ; when grown on poor, dry soil or 
among rocks they show to much better advantage, as rich 
soil causes them to produce leaves so abundantly as to hide 
the flowers. They are for this reason Avell adapted for 
vases, as they stand heat and drought well. There are 
some beautiful yellow varieties marked with crimson ; also 
some of a dark maroon, almost black, but, as we have be- 
fore said, the bright scarlet sorts are most desirable. 

Violets. — See special chapter. 

Verbenas. — See special chapter. 

Zinnias^ Double. — Although these are now common 
enough as annual plants, their great value as ornaments ior 
the flower garden deserves brief notice. To have them de- 
velop in perfection they should be sown under glass in 
March or April and j^lanted out in May. The first flowers 
usually do not come double, but towards the end of sum- 
mer, if the seed be of a good "strain," flowers will be 
produced rivalling the Dahlia in symmetry, and of varied 
and novel shades of coloring. 



SOPT-WOODF.D OR BEDDINO PLANTS. 2P>9 

PROPAGATIXG SUCCULENT PLANTS IN SUMMER. 

The following, which appeared in the American Horti- 
cultural Annual for 1868, maybe appropriately introduced 
here : 

Every one who lias attempted the propagation of plants 
by cuttings during the high temperature we liave in the 
months of July and August, is aware of the great difficulty 
experienced in doing so, no matter what system or process 
is resorted to. In those months plants of a succulent na- 
ture, such as Carnations, Geraniums, Petunias, etc., etc., 
grow rapidly, and the shoots formed are in consequence 
watery and soft, so that, when detached from the plant and 
used for propagation at that hot season of the year, when 
the thermometer will average 75° or 80° in the shade, the 
chances are that few will root, but will, as gardeners term 
it, "damp off" in a few days after being put in as cut- 
tings. In ordinary cases, with those having the means 
of propagating jDlants, this difficulty in rooting cuttings 
during the summer months is not of much importance, as 
florists usually reserve stock enough to enable them to 
produce all the cuttings they require at the proper season 
for propagating, namely September, October, and Novem- 
ber. But with amateurs, who have but a plant or two of 
some favorite variety and who wish safely to increase it, 
or to the florist wishing to make the most of some valua- 
ble importation, this (to us) new practice is likely to prove 
of some benefit. The increasing taste for the new kinds 
of variegated Pelargoniums induced us to import a num- 
ber of the tricolor section, of which the now comparatively 
well-known sort Mrs. Pollock is a type. These w^e found 
to grow rather slowly, and to increase them to the best 
advantage became a matter of consideration. Layering 
in the usual way, by bending them down to the ground, 
was, of course, in plants of that style of growth, all but 
impracticable. To have taken off cuttings would have 



240 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



not only farther enfeebled already feeble plants, but tlie 
prospect of rooting these cutthigs in hot weather was 
nearly hoj^eless ; so a compromise was decided on, wliich, 
for want of a better term, wx call *' layering in the air." 
As shown in figure 54, the shoot is " tongued " in the 




Fig. 69. — ^MANNER OP TONGUIKG THE GERANIUM. 

manner of an ordinary layer. This has the effect to arrest 
the upward flow of the sap at the incision, which, of course, 
acting to some extent as if the shoot had been taken off, 
induces a branching out helow the "layer," providing 
shoots for further operations. But the effect on the vigor 
of the plant is much better than if the layer or shoot had 
been detached ; for, by the time it takes to get hardened 
and form a callus, the shoots branching out below the cut 
are fit to supply the loss of foliage sustained when the 






SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 241 

layer or cutting is detached. The cutting or "layer" is 
in condition to be cut off in five or six days from the time 
it has been tongued, and will be found not only to be 
healed up, and in such a condition that it will quickly emit 
roots, but the whole cutting presents a well-ripened, 
firm condition, not easily described, but readily detected 
by the practical propagator. When detached, they should 
be treated in all respects as ordinary cuttings, duly 
watered, and shaded for a few days until they strike out 
roots, w^hen they are potted off in small pots in the usual 
manner. During the unprecedently wet summer that we 
had in 1867, we found that many of the plants of the va- 
riegated Pelargoniums and variegated Rose Geranium 
*' Lady Plymouth," operated on in this manner, produced 
roots half an inch in length, as they hung in the air; but 
this was of no special advantage, as we found that those 
that merely healed up and callused made just as fine plants 
as those that had formed roots before being cut off. 

Plants thus formed make much finer plants than regular 
layers, as they are to all intents and purpose cuttings, and 
consequently, unlike layers, are not long dependent on the 
parent plant for support, being indebted little or nothing 
to the old plant during their development. By this sys- 
tem of propagation we have had the satisfaction this sea- 
son of doubling our stock of many rare and valuable plants, 
which it would have been perfectly impracticable to do in 
the usual manner during the hot months. 



242 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XL. 

WHAT FLOWERS WILL GROW IN THE SHADE ? 

The question " What flowers will grow in the shade ? " 
is put to me every spring by scores of city people, whose 
little patch which they wish to devote to flowers is so 
walled up by neighboring houses, that the direct rays of 
the sun never touch it. But few plants will develop their 
flowers there, and none will do it so well as if it were 
lighted up by sunsliine a part of the day. Fuchsias, Pan- 
sies. Forget-me-nots, Violets, Lobelias, Lily of the Valley, 
Phloxes, and other herbaceous plants whose native habitat 
is a shady wood, will do best, but even these languish if 
denied all direct sunlight. The best eflect in such situa- 
tions is produced by ornamental-leaved plants, the beauty 
of which is not dependent upon their flowers. Among 
these may be ranked the Gold and Silver Variegated- 
leaved Geraniums, Achyranthes, Alternantheras, Begonias, 
Caladiums, Centaureas, Coleuses, etc., which, if planted 
so as to bring the various shades in contrast, produce a 
pleasing effect, which continues during the entire summer 
months, and is not surpassed by any display of flowers. 

The cultivator of flowers in rooms should understand 
the necessity of sunlight to jolants that are to flower, and 
endeavor to get these as close as possible to a window 
having an eastern or southern aspect. The higher the 
temperature the more plants sufier for want of light. 
Many plants might remain in a temperature of 40°, in a 
cellar for example, away from direct light, for months 
without material injury, while if the cellar contained a 
furnace keeping a temperature of 70°, they would all die; 



WHAT FLOWERS WILL GKOW IN THE SHADE ? 243 

such would particularly be the case with plants of a half- 
hardy nature, such as monthly Roses, Carnations, Fuch- 
sias, etc. 

In our green-house culture of flowers, direct sunlight is 
an all important consideration; and a spell of sunless 
weatlier in midwinter is often a loss to us of hundreds of 
dollars by preventing the development of flowers. Hence, 
we use every means at command to dispose the plants to 
secure the greatest amount of light. 

The debilitating efiects of want of direct light on 
plants are well illustrated by taking a vigorous plant in 
full foliage and flower, that has been growing in the direct 
light of our green-house benches, and placing it under the 
bench. If the temperature is higli — say 70° in 48 hours, 
the sickly signs, showing want of light, will be apparent 
to an experienced eye ; in a week its condition would be 
such as to indicate sickness to the most common observer, 
and in a month it would most likely be dead. 

In this respect there is some analogy between plant and 
animal life, and it teaches us the importance of light for 
our own healthy development. Certain it is that our 
green-house and garden operatives will compare favorably 
with any other class of workmen, as far as health is con- 
cerned. In the past twenty years I have had an average 
of thirty w^orkmen daily. During that time but one has 
died, and two only have been seriously sick, and some 
three or four veterans who are growing gray in th-e ser- 
vice, have never lost an hour by sickness. I doubt if it 
would be easy to find the same number of workmen em- 
ployed out of the sunlight^ who could show such health 
as these sunbrowned boys of ours. 



244 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

GREEN-HOUSE AND STOVE, OR HOT-HOUSE, PLANTS. 



SELECT LIST OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

The following list includes plants which should be kept at 
a night temperature ranging from 40 to 50 degrees. For 
a more extended list, see special green-house catalogues. 



Abelia floribunda. 
" rupestris. 
Abutilon Santanta. 
" insigne. 
" Mesapotamicnm. 
Achyranthes Verschafifeltii. 

" Gilsonii. 

Acacia angustifolia. 
" armata. 
" pubescens. 
Achimenes Boothii violacea. 
" cocci uea superba. 
" elegans. 
" grandiflora. 
" pednnculata. 
" Wagnerii. 
Agapanthus umbellatus. 
Agave Americana. 

" " variegata. 

Antirrhinum (Hybrids in var.) 
Alonsoa elegans. 
Aloysia citriodora. 
Ardisia crenulata. 
" " alba. 

" serrulata. 
Artemisia argentea. 
Azalea Indica. 
.Asclepias curassavica. 
Beaufortia decussata. 
Babiana, of sorts. 
Bignonia jasminoides. 
" " rosea. 

" alba. 



Bouvardia compacta. 
" Laura. 
" leiantha. 
" " splendens. 

" " floribunda. 

" " grandiflora. 

" longiflora alba. 
" " rosea. 

" Hogarth. 
" triphylla. 
Brugmansia Knightii. 
Burchellia capensis. 
" speciosa. 
Cercus flagelliformis. 
" grandiflorus. 
" Smithii. 
Calla (Richardia) ^thiopica. 

♦' nana. 

Camellia Japonica (and Hybrid*). 
Cunna discolor. 
" Indica. 
" Van Houttii. 
Centaurea candidissima. 

" compacta. 
Oestrum aurantiacum. 
" laurifolium. 
Chorozema cordata elegans. 

" varia. 
Cineraria maritima. 

" amelloides and Hybrids. 
Convolvulus Mauritanicus. 
Clerodendron Japonicum. 
Clethra arborea. 



GREEIS'-HOUSE AND STOVE PLANTS. 



245 



Olivia nobilis. 
Correa alba. 

" " delicata. 
" speciosa. 
Coronilla glauca 

*' " variegata. 

Crowea saligna. 
Rochea falcata. 
Cyclamen Atkinsii. 
" Persicum. 
" " album. 

" " rubrum. 

Daphne Indica. 
" odora rubra. 
" *' variegata. 

Diosma alba. 
Diplacus puniceus. 
Dionsea muscipula. 
Epacris Alteanii. 
" coccinea. 
" Cunninghamii. 
" delicatissima. 
" densiflora. 
" grandiflora. 
" " rubra. 

" impressa. 
" " carnea. 

Epipbyllum elegans. 

" formosissimum. 

" speciosum. 

" truncatum. 

" " Atkinsii. 

" " violaceum. 

Erica Isevis. 
" ventricosa. 
" Willmorei. 
** gracilis. 
" persoluta. 
•* " alba. 

Erytbrina Crista-galli. 

" herbacea. 

Eugenia myrtifolla. 
Eucharis Amazonica. 
Eupatorium elegans. 

" fruticosum. 
Fabiana imbricata. 
Ferraria antberosa. 



Fuschias (Hybrids in variety). 
Gardenia florida. 

" radicans. 
Gardoquia Hookerii. 
Geranium (Hybrids in variety). 
Gazania splendens (and Hybrids). 
Heliotropium corymbosum (and 

Hybrids in variety). 
Hydrangea Hortensia. 

" Japonica. 

" " var. 

" deutzifolia. 
Indigofera decora. 
Inga pulcherrima. 
Jasminum grandiflonim. 

" Sambac. 
Justicia carnea. 
Kennedya ovata. 

alba. 

*' MarryattsB. 

Lacbenalia quadricolor. 
" superba. 
" tricolor. 
Lantana Adolphe Haas (Hybrids). 

" aurantiaca superba. 

" ne plus ultra. 

" Intea carminata. 

" Md. Reudatler. 

" rubra lutea. 

" xanthina superba. 
Lapageria rosea. 
Lecbenaultia Formosa. 
Libonia floribuuda. (Figure 55.) 
Lobelia Erinus. 

" " speciosa. 

Linum trigynum. 
Lithospermum fruticosum. 
Lopbospermum scandens. 
Magnolia fuscata. 
Mabernia glabrata odorata. 
Manettia bicolor. 

" cordifolia. 
Mandevilla suaveolens. 
Maurandia Barclayana. 

" " rosea. 

" '» alba. 

Metrosideros robusta. 



246 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



Mimulus luteus vars. 
Myrtus communis. 

" " double flowered. 

" " variegated. 

Nerium Oleander. 
Pyrethriuu Partlienium pleno. 
Passiflora bybrida. 

" ciErulea racemosa. 
Pelargonium (Hybrids in variety). 
Ruellia forinosa. 
Rhyncbospermum jasminoides. 
Salvia falgens. 

" gesnerseflora. 

" Liliana. 

" patens- 

" " alba. ■ 

" splendens. 



Salvia splendens Gordoni. 
Senecio maritima. 
Solanum capsicastrum. 

" " fol. var. 

" Pseudo-capsicum. 

" " fol. var. 

SoUya heterophylla. 
Sparraannia Africana. 
Stevia serrata. 

" " grandiflora. 

" compacta. 
Trernandia ericifolia. 
Veronica Andersoni. 

" " variegata. 

" Lindlej^ana. 

" splendlda rubra. 

" imi^erialis. 



ABRIDGED LIST OF STOVE OR HOT-HOUSE PLANTS. 

This list comprises plants which should be kept at a 
night" temperature ranging from 55 to 65 degrees. 



^climea discolor. 
" fulgens. 
^scbynantbus grandiflorus. 
" speciosus. 

" zebrinus. 

Alternanthera amoeua. 

" spatliulata. 

" tricolor. 

" versicolor. 

AUamanda catbartica. 

" Scbotii. 
Alocasia metallica. 
" argyroneura. 
" Bataviensis. 
" Lowii, 
" Javanicum. 
Antliurium grande. 
" regale. 
Apbelandra aurantiaca. 

" graudis. 

Aralia leptopbylla. 
Ardisia creuulata. 
'< " alba. 



Begonia argyrostigma. 

" coccinea. 

" Decaisneana. 

" incarnata. 

" fuscboides. 

" " alba. 

" Sandersoni. 

" marmorata. 

" Miranda. 

" nebulosa. 

" Nigricaus. 

" Rex. 

" sj)lendida. 
Bertolonia maculata. 

" guttata. 
Billbergia rosea. 
Bignonia veuusta. 
Bonapartea juncea. 
Bouganvillea spectabilis. 
Brexia cbrysopbylla. 
Caladium amabile. 



argjn'ites. 
Belleymei. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND STOVE PLANTS. 



247 



Caladium bicolor. 
" Brongniarti. 
" Cbantiai. 
" esculentum. 
" marmoratum. 
*' pictum. 
'* regale. 
" Verschaffeltii. 
' Wiglitii. 

Ccntradeuia rosea. 

" " floribunda. 

" " grandifolia. 

Cissus discolor. 
" argentea. 
Clerodendron Balfouri. (Fig. 56.) 

" splendens. 

Coleus Verschaffeltii. 
" Vietchii. 
" atropurpureus. 
" Blumei. 
" " laciniata. 

" marmorata. 
Corabretura purpureum. 
Croton discolor. 

*' elegantissimum. 
" pictum. 
'* variegatum. 
Dieffenbachia Barquiniaua. 
Dracaena Cooperi. 
" Draco. 
" ferrea. 
" maculata. 
" spectabilis. 
" terminalis. 
Dicliorisandra mosaica. 
Dipladenia nutans. 
" picta. 

" urophylla. 

Eucharis Amazonica. 
Ecbites amabilis. 

" rubrovenosa. 
Eranthemum leuconeurum. 
" rubrovenium. 

Euphorbia jacquiniflora. 

'* splendens. 

Gesneria bulbosa. 
" amabilis. 



Gesneria excelsa. 

♦' Herbert!. 

" hybrida. 

" oblongata." 

" spendeus. 

*' zebrina. 
Gloriosa Plantii. 
Gloxinia (Hybrids in var.) 
Goldfussia anisophylla. 
Goody era discolor. 
Hoya carnosa. 
" ** fol. var. 
" iraperialis. 
Ipomsea Horsfalliae. 

" insignis. 

" Learii. 
Ixora blanda. 
" coccinea. 
" crocata. 
Justicia speciosa. 
Lasiandra splendens. 
Lapageria rosa. 

" " alba. 

Maranta fasciata. 

" sanguinea. 

" Warscewiczii. 

" zebrina. 
Medinilla magniflca. 
Monochsetum volubile. 
Nepenthes distillatoria. 

" Rafflesiana. 

Passiflora alata. 

" Baraquiniana. 

" kermesina. 

" racemosa princepa. 
Philodendron Lindeniannm. 
Plumbago rosea. 
Poinsettia pulcherrima. 
Pothos argyrsea. 
Rogiera amoena. 

" thyrsiflora. 

" gratissima. 
Rondeletia anomale. 

" speciosa. 

Rhyncospermum jasminoides. 
Ruellia formosa. 
Russelia floribunda. 



248 



PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



Russelia juncea. 
Sanchezia nobilis variegata. 
Solandra grandiflora. 
Sonerilla raargaritacea. 
Spliaerostema marmorata. 
Stephanotis floribunda. 
Tacsonia sanguinea. 

'• pinnatistipula. 
Tielanthera ficoidea tricolor. 



Tillandsia teniiifolia. 
Torenia Asiatica. 
Tradescentia discolor. 
" zebrina. 

Tydsea grandis. 
" venosa. 
Tapina variegata. 
Urceolina aurea. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS, PERENNIAL AND BIEN- 
NIAL PLANTS, ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS. 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



Subjoined is an abridged list of leading annuals and 
biennials, suited for summer decoration of the flower gar- 
den and for green-house culture. For description, see de- 
scriptive seed lists. 



Alyssum,Sweet(Kouigainaritima). 
Amanintus sanguineus. 

" tricolor. 

Anagallis grandiflora. 
Aster, German. 
Balsam, Camellia flowered. 

" Rose. 
Calceolaria hybrida. 

" " nana. 

Calliopsis marmorata. 
" Drummondii. 
" Atkinsonii. 
" mosseux. 
Campanula Speculum. 
" Lorii. 
" media. 
Cineraria hybrida. 
Clariiia elegans. 
" pulchella. 
" integripetala. 



Oollinsia bicolor. 

" grandiflora. 
Convolvulus major. 

" tricolor. 

Datura humilis, fl, pi. 

" Carthageniensis. 

" meteloides (Wrightii). 
Dianthus Chinensis. 
" Heddewigi. 
" laciniatus. 
Digitalis purpurea, superba. 
Dolichos Lablab. 
Downingia (Clintonia) pulchella. 
Erysimum PeroflFskianum. 
Eschscholtziu croeea, 
Gaillardia grandiflora hybrida. 

" coccinea nana. 
Gilia tricolor. 
Gomphrena globosa. 
Helichrysum bracteatum. 



ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, ETC. 249 



Lupinus hybridus atrococcineus. 

" tricolor elegans. 
Lychnis Haageaua. 
Mirabilis Jalapa. 
Mimulus maculosus. 

" cardinalis. 
Mathiola annua, hybrida. 
Mimosa pudica. 
Nemophila insignis. 

" maculata. 
Nigella Damascena. 

" Hispanica. 
Phlox Drummondii. 
Portulaca grandiflora. 
Reseda odorata. 
Rodanthe Manglesii. 
Ricinus commnnis, minor. 



Salpiglofisis coccineus. 
Sapouaria Calabrica, 
Scabiosa atropurpurea. 

" " candldissima 

Schizanthus Grahamii. 
Tagetes patula e recta. 

" signata pumila. 
Thunbergia alata. 

" aurantiaca. 

Tropseolum peregrinum. 
" coccineum. 

Vicia Gerardi. 
Viola tricolor hybrida. 
Whitlavia grandiflorx. 
Xerantbemum annuum. 
Zinnia elegans. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

The interest in hardy herbaceous plants is rapidly in 
creasing. Space will permit a list of only a few of the 
most showy and interesting kinds. 



Achillea tomentosa. 

" Ptarmica-pleno. 

Aconitum Napellus. 
Adonis vernalis. 
Alyssum saxatile. 

" " fol. variegatis. 

Auchusa Italica. 
Anemone Japonica. 

" " hybrida. 

" vitifolia. 

" " alba. 

Aqnilegia alpina. 

" Canadensis. 

" Durandii, flore-pleno. 

" glandulosa. 

" Skinneri. 
Arabis albida. 

" " fol. variegatis. 
Arundo Donax. 

" " variegata. 

Asclepias incarnata. 

*' tuberosa. 
Asphodelus luteus. 
Aster discolor. 



Astilbe Japonica. 

" " variegata. 

Baptisia australis. 
Bulbocodium vernum. 
Campanula alpina. 

" Carpatica. 

" garganica. 

" " alba. 

" grandiflora. 

" latifolia. 

" nitida alba. 

" persicsefolia. 

" versicolor. 

Catananche coerulea. 
Centaurea dealbata. 
Centranthus ruber. 
Cerastium tomentosum. 
Chelone glabra. 

" iutegrifolia. 
Colchicum autumnale. 

" " album. 

Comaropsis fragarioides. 
Convallaria majalis. 
Convolvulus Manritanicus. 



250 



PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



Coreopsis grandiflora. 
Corniis Canadensis. 
Coronilla montana. 
Corydalis bulbosa. 
" cava lutea. 
" nobilis. 
Crucian elia stylosa- 
Cypripedium acaule. 

" spectabile. 

Daphne Cneorum. 
Dactylis glomerata. 
Delphinium Barlowii. 
" Belladonna. 

" bicolor grandiflorum. 

" elatum plenum. 

" formosum. 

" giganteum. 

" Hendersonii. 

" pulchellum. 

Dianthus deltoides. 

" Verschaflfeltil. 
Dictamnus Fraxinella. 

" " alba. 

Dicentra spectabilis. 

" " alba. 

Dodecatheon Meadia. 
Epimedium alpinum. 

" macranthum. 
Epipactis latifolia. 
Eryngium amethystinum. 
Erytbronium Amerieanum. 

*' Dens-canis. 

Eupatorium ageratoides. 
" purpureum. 

Euphorbia amygdaloides variegata. 
Funkia grandiflora. 
" lancifolia. 
" Sieboldiana. 
Galium boreale. 
Gentinna acaulis. 
" Bavarica. 
" Fortunii. 
" purpurea. 
" verna. 
Geranium affine. 

" argcnteum. 
" La\nberti. 



Geranium Lancastriense. 

" pratense. 
" " flore-pleno. 

GQum Chilense atrosanguineum. 
Gnaphalium margaritaceum. 

" orientalis. 

Gynerium argenteum. 
Gypsophila acutifolia. 

" repens. 

Hedysarum coronarium. 
Helleborus niger. 
" viridis. 
Hemerocallis flava. 

" graminea. 

Hepatica triloba alba. 
Hesperis matronalis alba plena. 
Hieiacium aurantiacum. 
Hypericum nummularium. 

" tomentosum. 

Iberis saxatile. 
Iris alata. 
" Attica. 
" bicolor. 
" cristata. 
" elegans. 
" flavescens. 
" formosa. 
« livida. 
" odorata. 
" pumila alba. 
" Susiana, 
" versicolor. 
" Virginica. 
Laraium raolle. 
Latbyrus grandiflorus. 
" latifolius. 
" tuberosus. 
Lepachys (Kudbeckia) Columnarls. 
Leucojum vernum. 
Ligularia arnicoides. 
Linaria alpina. 
Linum alpinum. 
" perenne. 
Lotus corniculatus. 

" " flore-pleno. 

Lupinus polypbyllus. 
Lychnis Chaledonica. 



ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, ETC. 



251 



Lychnis Chaledonica alba plena. 
♦' " coccinea plena. 

" dioica alba plena. 
" Flos-cuculi rubra plena. 
** Viscaria alba. 
" " rubra plena. 

Lysimachia nummularia. 
Lythrum alatum. 
Melissa officinalis variegata. 

" rotundifolia, fol. var. 
Mentha sylvestris, fol. var. 
Muscari botryoides. 
Myosotis alpestris. 
CEnothera acaulis. 
Ornithogalum aureum. 

" py rami dale. 

Orobus angustifolius. 
" luteus. 
" vernus. 
Pseonia herbacea and Hybrids. 
Papaver alpinum. 
" bracteatum. 
" orientale concolor. 
Phlox decussata, sufFruticosa, and 
Hybrids. 
" subulata nivalis. 
" " procumbens. 

" " setaceus. 

" vernus. 
Polemonium reptans. 
Potentilla alba. 
" argentea. 
" bicolor grandiflora. 
♦' grandiflora coccinea. 
Pulmonaria Vlrginica. 
" saccharata. 

" Siberica. 

Pyrethrum uliginosum and 

Hybrids 
Pyrola rotundifolia. 
lludbeckia Diummondii. 

" laciniata. 

Sagittaria sagittifolia. 
Salvia argentea. 

" nemorosa. 
Sanguinaria Canadensis. 



Saxifraga affinis. 

" aizoides. 

" crustata. 

" geranioides. 
Scrophularia mellifera, fol. vat. 
Scutellaria galericulata. 

Sedum acre. 
" glaucum. 
" grandiflorum. 
" micranthum. 
*' rupestre. 
" Sleboldii. 
Soldanella alpina. 

" montana. 
Solidago altissima. 
" Canadensis. 
" odora. 
Spiraea digitata. 

" fill pendula plena. 
" Japonica. 
" trifoliata. 
" Ulmaria, fol. var. 
Symphytum orientale. 
Tbalictrum alpinum. 

" anemonoides. 

" glaucescens. 
*' lucidum. 

Thymus officinalis, fol. var. 
Tournefortia heliotropoides. 
Tradescantia Virginica alba. 
Tricyrtis hirta. 
Trillium atropurpureum. 

" grandiflorum. 
Trollius Americanus. 
" Asiaticus. 
" orientalis. 
" Tauricus. 
Uvularia amplexicaulis. 

" grandiflora. 
Valeriana montana. 
Veratrum album. 
" nigrum. 
Veronica amethystina, 
" canescens. 
" elegans. 
" sasatile. 



252 



PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE, 



HAKDY OENAMENTAL SHRUBS. 



Amygdalus nana. 

" '* alba. 

Azalea nudiflora. 
Berberis Canadensis. 
" Nepalensis. 
" purpurea. 
Rubus Japonicus alba. 
Calycanthus floridus. 
" praecox. 

Chionanthus Virginicus. 
Cytisus elongatus. 
" capitatus. 
Cotoneaster micropbylla. 
Crataegus pyraeantha. 
Daphne Cneorum. 

'' Mezereum. 
Deutzia crenata plena. 
" gracilis. 
" " fol. var. 

*' scabra. 
Eaonymus Americanus. 

" Europseus. 
Forsytbia viridissima. 
Halesia tetraptera. 
Hibiscus Syriacus (Althaea frutex), 

vars. 
Hypericum Calycinum. 

" Kalmianum. 

Hydrangea deutziaefolia. 
'• Hortensia. 
" " fol. var. 

" Japonica. 
Jasminnm officinale (requires pro- 
tection in winter in 
Northern States). 



Kalmia latifolia. 
Kerria Japonica. 

" " fol. var. 

Lonicera Tartarica. 

'' " alba. 

Berberis Aquifoliium. 
Magnolia conspicua. 
" purpurea. 
" Soulangeana. 
Philadelpbus coronarius. 

'* nanus. 

Pyrus Japonica. 

" " alba. 

Khododendron Catawbiense, and 

Hybrids. 
Ribes sanguinea. 

" aurea. 
Syringa vulgaris. 

" " alba. 

" " purpurea plcno. 

" Persica. 
" " alba. 

Spiraea prunifolia, fl. pleno. 
" callosa. 
'* " alba. 

" Douglasii. 
" Reevesii, fl. pleno. 
Viburnum Opulus. 

" " plicatum 

Weigela rosea. 

" *' fol. var. 

" " alba. 

" amabilis. 
" floribunda. 
" hortensis. 



HARDY CLIMBING SURUBS. 



A.kebia quinata. 
Ampelopsis bipinnata. 
" hederacea. 
" tricolor. 
Aristolochia Sipho. 

" tomentosa. 

Bignonia atrosanguinea. 
" grandiflora. 



Bignonia radicans. 
Clematis Flammula. 

' viticella. 

" " rubra. 

" " alba. 

[Tender. Protect in Winter 

" azurea grandiflora. 

" " Sophia. 



GRAPE VINES UNDER GLASS. 



253 



Clematis lanuginosa. 

" Jackmanii. 
Hedera Canariensis. 

" helix. 

" fol. variegata. 

" Koegneriana. 

" Taurica. 
Lonicera auiea. 

" Bclgica. 

" bracypoda aurea reticu- 
lata. 



Lonicera Halliana. 

" Perielymeua. 

" Japonica. 

" sempervirens. 
Periploca Graeca. 
Wistaria friitescens. 

" alba. 

" Sinensis. 

" " alba. 

" magnifica. 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

CULTURE OF GRAPE VINES UNDER GLASS. 

It is many years since I have had personal experience in 
the growing of grapes under glass, and this was so lim- 
ited that I feel incompetent to do justice to the subject, 
even in the short treatise that my restricted space here 
will permit. For this reason I have called in the assist- 
ance of my life-long friend, Mr. Hugh Wilson, of Salem, 
Mass., whose knowledge of the subject is, perhaps, equal 
to that of any one in this country ; but, unfortunately, the 
limited space at my command gives Mr. Wilson but a mea- 
gre chance for giving us the full benefit of his experience. 

THE LOCATION OF THE VINERY. 

As with all glass structures, the vinery should, when- 
ever practicable, be in a situation sheltered from the north 
and west, and if the ground is gently sloping towards the 
south-east so much the better. 



THE BORDER 



or soil in which the vines are to be planted is an all im- 
portant matter. It is rarely that the natural soil is of such 



254 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

a character as would serve the purpose, and hence in nearly 
every case it is necessary to prepare the materials for the 
"border." The usual rule laid down is to take of the top 
spit (or spade's depth), from an old pasture, as the main 
material of the border — say three parts; lime rubbish, 
charcoal, scrapings from a paved street, or oyster shells 
broken up one part ; rotted stable manure one part, with 
perhaps one ton of crushed bones added to every twenty 
tons of this border compost. Something depends upon 
the soil of the pasture from which the top spit is taken ; 
if it is a heavy adhesive loam more in proportion of the 
lime rubbish or street scrapings should be added, as it is 
all important that when the organic substances of the 
manure or fibre of the sod are rotted away, that the 
material forming the border should not become sodden or 
solid, so that it would be retentive of water and im- 
pervious to air. For this reason, when choice can be 
made, the pasture from which this turfy top spit is taken 
should be of a shaly or calcareous character. If the whole 
material for the border can be prepared a year before 
using so much the better ; let it be repeatedly turned so 
as to mix the different ingredients thoroughly. This is 
not indispensable, however, as we have often used them 
fresh with nearly as good results. 

THE EXCAVATION FOR THE BORDER 

should be made from 20 to 24 inches deep, and of the 
width of the grapery itself; and if the house is a " lean- 
to," 15 or 20 feet outside. For a span roof make it the 
same distance on each side outside. Above everything it is 
indispensable that this excavation be thoroughly drained 
— it should be formed so that the bottom slopes about 1 
foot in 20 to the outside of the border, and there a drain 
should be placed of sufficient capacity as to quickly carry 
off all surplus from the rains that may fall on the border. 
Perhaps the safest and simplest j^lan to prevent the roots 



GRAPE VINES UXDEll GLASS. 255 

getting through into the cold subsoil is to cement the bot- 
tom of this excavation. One inch in thickness of cement 
is enough. When this is done the border material may be 
thrown in, filling it up five or six inches higher than the 
general level to allow for settling. Be careful never to 
handle the materials for the border in wet weather. 

OF THE CONSTRUCTIOlSr OF THE VINERY 

little may be here said, as there are now architects in 
every large city, fully competent to give plans. I will 
simply say tliat for early forcing, or perhaps in all 
graperies where artificial heat is used, the lean-to or one- 
sided structure is preferable ; while for cold graperies, or 
those not heated artificially, the curvilinear or span- 
roofed is the best. The " lean-to " may be 18 or 20 feet 
wide, and of any desired length, giving a length of rafter 
from 20 to 24 feet. When the curvilinear span for cold 
vineries is used, the base width may be 25 feet, which will 
give about 15 feet of rafter on each side. A house built 
after the design given for a rose-house on pages 135 and 
136, will answer admirably for a cold grapery. 

PLANTING THE VINE. 

Amateurs planting graperies, commonly desire to pro- 
cure vines that are two or three years old, but such as have 
had much experience with stocking new graperies know 
that a one-year-old vine that is well ripened, better 
answers the purpose than those of greater age ; in fact it 
is a question whether a vine started from an eye in Feb- 
ruary or March, and planted in June, will not by Sep- 
tember make as fine a cane as one of any greater age. 
As such vines are not very easily transportable or even 
procurable at all by beginners, the best thing they can do 
is to procure well-grown one-year-old vines and plant 



256 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUKE. 

them in spring, but not too early — say May in this latitude, 
or just when their buds are beginning to start if kept, as 
they should have been, in a cool place. It is best to shake 
the soil from the ball of the young vines that have been 
grown in pots, although the disentanglement or spreading 
of the roots, to which so much importance is by some at- 
tached, is of no consequence. In planting it has ever 
been my practice to set the roots outside, drawing the 
tops through the apertures formed in the wall, a little 
higher than the border inside the house (if there is one). 
The distance apart at which the vines should be planted 
is 3 feet. Strong galvanized wire should be run horizon- 
tally 15 inches apart across the rafters, and 15 inches from 
the glass on which to train the vines. 

I may here state to such as may object to outside 
planting for hot house or forcing graperies, that I have 
grown vines so planted for twenty years in succession, and 
never failed to have a satisfactory crop. 

Firing was begun each year about the first of February. 
Of course the border was covered up sufficiently with 
leaves or litter to prevent its being frozen. But for 
earlier forcing, say that beginning in December or Janu- 
ary, it is necessary to heat such a border by the use of hot 
manure or leaves, which must be in sufficient depth to fer- 
ment ; and it must be covered with boards in winter so as 
to throw off rain. The treatment of 

VINEB THE FIRST SEASON 

is very simple, presuming they have been planted in 
May and were cut back to two or three buds inside the 
front wall. Select the strongest growth from one of these 
buds, tying it to the wires as it grows, and pinching off to 
one leaf the laterals or side shoots which it will throw out 
above the first joint, until it reaches the top of the house, 
after which let it revel at will. 



GKAPE VINES UNDER GLASS. 257 



THE SECOND SEASON 



after planting, this single shoot or cane should be cut 
down to the foot of the rafter, from which a shoot will be 
allowed to grow as on the previous season. Vines are not 
allowed to fruit in their first year's growth. When the 
vines, however, are strong and well ripened, instead of 
cutting them down as above stated, I have adopted the 
following plan of fruiting the shoot, with good success : 

On well-grown vines the shoot or cane will be well 
ripened, 7 or 8 feet from bottom of the rafter ; this shoot 
is "layered" by being twisted once round (in order to 
check the flow of sap), in a 12-inch pot, which is filled up 
with vine border compost ; roots will be emitted from this 
"layer" sufficient to sustain and mature the fruit, and 
as good a shoot will grow from below the layer as if it 
had been cut down, as is usually done ; and if the young 
cane has been well matured the previous season, a good 
crop will be secured with no injury to the part of the 
vine relied on for permanent use. The layer after fruit- 
ing may be thrown away or cut off and used as a plant. 

THE THIRD SEASON. 

At the pruning of the ripe wood, instead of cutting the 
vine down to a third of its length, or five feet on a fifteen 
foot rafter, I think it preferable to leave two-thirds, and 
if the vine is strong and well matured it will break freely, 
but allow it to bear only a light crop. By doing this, I 
have found the strength of the vine better equalized, as 
a strong vine when shortened to five feet is apt to make a 
stronger growth on the following season, leaving the 
lower part comparatively weak. 

THE FOURTH SEASON 

a full crop maybe taken, which should be about 18 or 
20 lb. to each rafter of 15 feet in length. 



258 • PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



TRAINING THE VINE. 



In this short treatise I will confine myself to the " spur 
system," which is that easiest to comprehend by those 
beginning the culture of the vine. It is done in this way : 
presuming that the vine has reached its " third season," 
and has been cut back to say 10 feet from the foot of the 
rafter, the cane is allowed to branch or spur at each 
joint or eye, a shoot from the upper part of the cane is 
allowed to run to the top of the house, which completes 
the length of the cane. The side shoots, or bearing wood, 
is cut back or spurred to one eye. The vine is now com- 
plete. The upper part will bear its first crop on its next 
season's growth ; the bearing wood when next pruned will 
be cut back as before to one eye, and so on annually the 
side branches or bearing wood to be cut back to one eye, 
the bunches of fruit being borne on the spurs annually. 

IN FORCING VINERIES 

the temperature to start with should be from 50° to 
55° at night, with a day temperature of 10° or 15° higher, 
increasing 10° when the buds are fairly broken, which will 
be in about a month from time of starting; in six or 
seven weeks more the fruit will be set and the tempera- 
ture may be raised 10° more, and so continued. Next in 
importance to temperature is 

MOISTURE. 

The vine luxuriates in what gardeners call a " tropical 
atmosphere," and during the whole period of its growth, 
particularly in our arid climate, the grapery should be 
copiously syringed twice a day witli water of the tem- 
perature of the house, until the first young leaves are 
formed. Besides this, evaporating pans placed on the 
pipes should at all times be kept full of water. In cold 



GRAPE VINES UNDER GLASS. 259 

vineries, where there are no pipes, water should be freely 
dashed all over the floor; this necessity for moisture 
occurs during the whole period of the growth of the vine 
until the fruit is beginning to ripen, except that at the 
time the vines are in flower it must be discontinued, as a 
dry atmosphere is best fitted for the proper fertilizing 
action of the pollen. I have long believed the cause of 

RUST ON THE GRAPE 

is an excess ot moisture at the time of the *' setting " of 
the fruit ; the " flower," the crop of petals, instead of 
dropping off will, in a moist atmosphere, adhere to the 
forming berry, and while being forced ofi" by the growth 
of the latter, it leaves its impression on the tender skin, 
which increases in size as the berry grows and results in 
the well known mark on the matured fruit called from its 
appearance " rust." 

THINNING. 

The grapes should be thinned while the berries 
are not longer than peas ; if left until the bunches are 
crowded, the process of thinning is not only much 
slower but the berries are more apt to be bruised. I 
have long been guided in thinning grapes by the fact 
(and one I think not generally noticed) that the flowers 
of the grape are produced in sets of three. In cases where 
each of the three flowers form a berry, two may be safely 
cut out in thinning ; but in many instances two only are 
formed, and sometimes only one, which the operator must 
take into consideration in thinning. With large bunches 
it is necessary to cut away entirely from the heart of the 
bunch many of these sets of three alluded to. The large 
bunches of some of the varieties ought to be " shoul- 
dered," that is, the shoulders, or loose and overhanging por- 
tions of the clusters, are to be tied up from the main body 



260 PRACTICA.L FLORICULTURE. 

of the bunch, giving opportunity for fuller development. 
This is especially necessary in Haniburgs and Muscats. 

SUMMER PRUNING 

should commence just before the vines are in flower. The 
shoot may be shortened to one joint above the bunch in- 
tended to be left. Strong vines will often show two or 
three bunches on a shoot. The laterals which grow below 
the bunch must be rubbed off, while that which grows by 
the bunch and above it is to be left and shortened to one 
joint. When the laterals liave again made a few leaves 
they need to be again shortened in the same way, all 
through the season while the vine continues to grow. 

MULCHING THE BORDER 

is always beneficial if not indispensable to the Well-being 
of the grapery, not only to protect the roots from being 
frozen in winter, but also because when such fertilizing 
material as stable manure is used, the roots are drawn to 
the surface of the border, which greatly conduces to the 
health of the vine and the quality of the fruit. 

PROTECTING THE VINES IN COLD GRAPERIES 

is of great benefit. About the simplest way to do so is 
to run a board along 18 inches or so from the front wall. 
After pruning the vines (which may be done at any time 
after they drop their leaves), they are to be taken down 
from the wires and laid down between this boarding and 
the front wall, and the space entirely filled up with soil or 
sand. It is necessary, though, to watch that ground mice 
do not get to the vines, as they might destroy them by 
eating the bark. "We have found that vines so covered up 
keep admirably, and that the plan is less liable to draw 



GRAPE VIXES UNDER GLASS. 261 

vermin than when they are covered with straw or hay. 
They are usually covered up about the middle of Decem- 
ber, and are not uncovered or otherwise disturbed until 
the first of May, when they are lifted up and tied to the 
wires, and started as before described. In cases where 
it is not practicable to cover with sand or soil, the vines 
can be laid down snugly along the front wall and covered 
up with mats or bagging ; but in either manner of cover- 
ing up the grapery must be freely ventilated during the 
warm part of the day, unless in extremely cold weather. 

VARIETIES. 

The varieties that I consider to be best suited for a cold 
vinery of 50 feet in length, requiring 21 permanent vines, 
would be : 12 Black Hamburgs, 2 White Frontignac, 2 
Forster's White Seedling, 2 Purple Constantia, 2 Muscat 
Hamburg, 1 Royal Ascot. 

For Vines for Forcing. — 10 Black Hamburg, 2 Griz- 
zly Frontignac, 2 Victoria Hamburg, 2 Golden Hamburg, 
1 Buckland Sweetwater, 2 Muscat of Alexandria, 2 Can- 
non Hall Muscat ; the last two at hottest end. 

The growing of grapes for sale has not proved gener- 
ally profitable here, at least not so profitable as the use of 
glass in the cultivation of vegetables or flowers, which 
probably may be accounted for from the fact that many 
gentlemen erecting graperies at first, solely for their 
family consumption, find that when they get to bearing 
full crops, there is more than can be used; and as 
" hot-house grapes " are an easily marketable article, and 
even at lowest rates seem to give a good deal of money 
for their weight, the surplus is thus thrown upon the 
market, bringing down the price below what is a paying 
rate to the regular grower. 

I regret the necessity of being compelled to compress 



262 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

these notes into so limited a space, being well aware that 
many of the points alluded to should have been more 
fully treated. But I trust what has been said may be of 
some benefit in guiding beginners who are entirely with- 
out any knowledge of grape culture under glass. To 
the experienced grape-grower it contains few facts but 
what he already knows, and is, no doubt, w^anting in 
many that he is familiar with. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

DIARY OF OPERATIONS FOR THE TEAR 1867—68. 

The following diary of operations and observations of 
temperature was taken by my general foreman, at 
our green-houses at Bergen City, N. J., from September 
9th, 1867, to September 9th, 1868. Although it necessari- 
ly contains many repetitions and matters of minor inter- 
est, it will be found very valuable as a guide to the begin- 
ner, as well as for convenient reference to those of raatuie 
experience. We, ourselves, find such a diary an excellent 
monitor, as the importance of dates in all horticultural 
operations cannot be over-estimated. The record of the 
thermometer is placed at the end of the notes for each 
day, the first figure giving the temperature in the shade 
at 6 A. M., and the second that at 6 P.M. 

SEPTEMBER, 1867. 

Qth. — ^Lifted and potted Bouvardias, preparatory to 
planting them out again on the benches for winter. It is 
of the utmost importance that Bouvardias should be pot- 
ted early, — not later than the middle of September, in this 
section. If left until cool weather sets in, they will not 



DIARY OP OPERATIONS. 263 

root freely in the pots, being plants that luxuriate in a 
high temperature. The plants are kept shaded and water- 
ed carefully, for a week or so after being potted, and it is 
better to keep them outside until they are placed perma 
nently in the green-bouse. Also, put in cuttings of 
Variegated Geraniums of various kinds this day. Topped 
Carnations, for the purpose of producing suitable cuttings 
in October ; it is now too late to cut back those that are 
wanted for winter flowers. Collected seeds of Salvia 
patens and S. splendens. Cleared off old plants of 
Pansies, to allow the self-sown seedlings light and air. 
60°— 62°. 

10th. — Continued potting Bouvardias. Put in cuttings 
of Zonale Geraniums; also, a few cuttings of those Ver- 
benas of which our stock is short. 61° — 64°. 

12th. — Repotted Double White Primulas, for winter 
flowering. Sowed Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce seed 
in open ground. 59° — 55°. 

ISth. — Repotted Fuchsias for stock. Layered Straw- 
berries in 2-inch pots, to make a plantation next month. 
54°_60°. 

14:th. — Began propagating general collection of Verbe- 
nas ; cuttings in excellent order. Collected flower seeds 
of all kinds. 58°— 59°. 

16^A. — Repotted Euphorbia, Poinsettia, and other plants 
for winter flowering. Lifted and potted stock Geraniums. 
55°— 59°. 

17th. — Began propagating a general collection of bed- 
ding plants, and as the weather is getting somewhat hot- 
ter, precaution is taken to douse the walks, benches, and 
all parts of the propagating houses with water, to reduce 
the temperature. 65° — 75°. 

18^A. — Collected seeds of Campanulas, Lychnis, Del- 
phiniums, and other hardy herbaceous plants, and sowed 
at once ; nearly all seeds of this character germinate 
better if sown when gathered. Cut back Centaurea and 



264 PRACTICAL PiORICULTURE. 

Cineraria, to produce young shoots to be taken for cut- 
tings, a month or so later. 69° — 74°. 

19th.— The same. 72°— 75°. 

20th. — Budded Roses and potted off in 2-inch pots the 
Verbena cuttings that were put in on the 10th and 12th 
inst. Result excellent. No fire heat has as yet been used 
in propagating. 68° — 70°. 

22c?. — Planted those Bouvardias that were potted on the 
9th inst., on the benches of the green-house. They are 
taken from the pots and planted in 6 inches of soil, at a 
distance of from 8 to 12 inches apart, or near enough for 
the plants to touch. The distance apart is regulated by 
the size of the plants. Began to propagate second and 
largest lot of Verbenas, being rather safer at this date 
than the previous ones of the 10th and 12th, on account 
of a general lower temperature. Gathered Verbenas, 
Salvias, and other flower seeds, that are in better state 
now than they were two weeks ago. 52° — 52°, 

2Sd. — The same as yesterday. 42°— 51°. 

24:th. — Put in main crop of Verbena cuttings from open 
ground at this date. Fumigated green-houses for the 
first time this season ; will continue to do so at least, 
twice every week until the green-houses are again empt/jr 
of plants, the order being that aphis or green fly muist 
never be seen. 43° — 55°. 

26th. — Lifted Carnations with balls of earth from the 
open ground, and planted them in 5 or 6 inches of soil on 
the benches of the green-houses for winter flowering. We 
are enabled to lift them in this way from the peculiarity of 
our soil, which is stiff and clayey ; on most soils this prac* 
tice would not be practicable ; if the soil did not adhere 
to the roots it would be necessary to first pot them, as in 
the case of Bouvardias. Put in cuttings of Variegated 
and Zonale Geraniums for main crop. 58° — 60°. 

2Qth. — Continued putting in Verbena and other cut- 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 265 

tings. First (slight) fire used in propagating house. Shaded 
and w atered freely Carnations put in yesterday. 40° — 44°. 

2T^A. — Planted out in the benches Eupatoriums, Stev- 
ias, &c., that have been kept in pots all summer. 42° — 
50°. 

2Sth. — ^Put in cuttings of Coleus, Salvias, Centaureaa^ 
&c., from outside. Budded Roses. 42° — 49°. 

30#A. — Put all tender plants in the houses, as from 
about this date there is danger from frost. Lifted clumps 
of double Neapolitan Violet, and planted them at distanc- 
es of 9 or 10 inches apart, on the benches of the green- 
house, in the same way as the Carnations. The same 
precautions necessary in shading and watering, if the 
weather is dry and sunny. 42° — 50°. 

OCTOBER, 1867. 

ist. — Lifted and potted Lamarque, Marshal Niel, and 
otiier Roses from the open ground, that are wished for ear- 
ly flowering in spring; it is yet too soon by a month foi 
general potting of Roses for spring flowering. 42° — 53°. 

2d — Potted off Petunias, Zonale Geraniums, and othe/ 
bedding plants that were put in as cuttings on the 17th ult. 
Planted out Stevia compacta and other varieties on bench- 
es of green-house ; as they are too tall, they are planted 
by laying them on their side, which answers well. Lifted 
up and planted Strawberry runners closely together, so 
that they can be conveniently got at in spring for early 
orders. Planted early, they make root sufficient to stand 
the winter. 42°— 52°. 

Zd. — The same as yesterday. 49° — 56°. 

4,th. — Potted off Verbenas put in on the 22d ult.; had 
excellent success. 47° — 50°. 

^th. — Lifted from ground siock plants of Variegated 
and Zonale Geraniums, and potted them. 49° — 54°. 

^th. — Operations same as Saturday. To-day shows tlip 



266 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

first ice, and very tender plants outside are soraewliat in- 
jured. Dahlias uninjured. 33° — 48°. 

8^^. — Corrected and re-labelled Dahlias, in anticipation 
of their soon being cut down by frost. Potted off Ver- 
benas, and put in cuttings of Verbenas, and Rose and 
Zonale Geraniums. 34°— 46°. 

^th. — The advancing season warns us to house Lemon 
Verbenas, Geraniums, and otlier of the more hardy plants 
that have yet been standing outdoors. Lemon Verbenas 
being deciduous (shedding their leaves), are put under the 
benches, as they can there be kept with safety until March, 
when they begin again to start; the temperature will 
average 45° under the bench. 46° — 52°. 

lO^A.— Put in cuttings of Verbenas, etc. 50°— 62°. 

ll^A. — Lifted Japan and other Lilies and placed them 
closely together, covered with 4 inches of sand, at the north 
side of a wall, to retard them for spring sales ; they are 
lifted for this purpose only, as nearly all Lilies are hardy, 
and will always do better left out undisturbed all winter 
where they grew ; though if the situation is very cold or 
exposed, a covering up with a few inches of sawdust, 
leaves, or manure, will benefit. In planting out the Lily 
bulblets in open ground, see Chapter on Propagation of 
Lilies. 48°— 61°. 

12th. — Put in cuttings of Fuchsias, Heliotropes, and 
Carnations. 49°— 62°. 

lAith. — ^Lifted Tuberoses, and placed them in empty 
benches of green-houses to dry. Tied down the flowering 
shoots of Tuberoses that are getting against the glass, 
■44°— 52°. 

l^th. — The same as yesterday. 

\Q>th. — ^Put in cuttings of Carnations and Pinks of all 
kinds. 44°— 58°. 

V7th. — Pricked out Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce 
plants, that were sown on the 12th of September, in cold 
frames. 50°— 61°. 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 267 

18^A. — Pricked out in shallow boxes seedlings of Del- 
phinium, etc., sown on the 4th of last month. 50° — 01° 

19ih. — Planted Pansy seedlings that were sown on 
the 15th of September, in cold frames, 4 to 5 inches 
apart each way. 52°— 68°. 

21st. — Continued planting Pansies, and put in Verbena 
cuttings, taken from the open ground. Collected seeds 
of Verbenas, Salvias, etc., etc. 53° — 55°. 

22J. — ^Potted off the Verbenas put in on the 8th inst.; 
also, Coleus, Centaurea, Salvias, etc., that were put in on 
the 28th of September, all of which, except the Centaurea, 
have succeeded well ; a partial failure in these is owing 
to the cuttings being too hard when put in. 54° — 63°. 

23<^.— Lifted, divided, and potted Callas. 44°— 40°. 

24:th. — ^Repotted Stock Giliflowers. First severe frost. 
Dahlias and all tender plants cut down. 24° — 40°. 

25th. — Made cuttings of a general variety of soft- 
wooded plants, of such as have yet stood uninjured in the 
open ground. 30° — 44. 

26th. — Moved the first jDotted lots of Verbenas, to pre- 
vent them rootino; throu2:h in the sand. 35° — 41°. 

28^A. — Potted off Fuchsias, Heliotropes, etc., from prop- 
agating house. Lifted Roses from the open ground for 
shipment. 40° — 50°. 

29th. — ^Potted Myrsiphyllum (Smilax) asparagoides, 
from seed boxes, (sown on August 1st) i. cleaned up and 
top-dressed Double Primulas. 50° — 50°. 

SOth. — Continued lifting Roses for shipment. 40° — 54°. 

Slst. — Put in Carnations and Pink cuttings ; we find 
greater success at this season than earlier, it being very 
important that Carnation cuttings are rooted at a low at- 
mospheric temperature. 41° — 53°. 

NOVEMBER, 1807. 

1st. — Potted Roses for spring blooming and sales, first 
pruning off one-third of the shoots. This operation of 



268 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

pruning should always be done before the j)lant is potted, 
as it takes less than half the time, and the plant being di- 
vested of its superfluous shoots is much more quickly and 
easily handled in potting. The plants after jDotting are 
freely watered once^ to consolidate the soil, and if the sun' 
is bright and warm they are shaded by latticed shutters. 
The plants are placed in a cold green-house or cold frame, 
care being taken to keep them as cool as possible, and on 
no consideration to use fire heat unless to keep the soil in 
the pots from freezing. If possible, Roses should never be 
kept at a higher temperature than 40° by fire heat, until 
the young or " working roots " are formed. See Chapter 
on the Rose for more comprehensive details. 41° — 53°. 

2d. — Continued potting Roses, and put in Antirrhinum, 
Pentstemon, and other cuttings of half hardy plants from 
the open ground. 45° — 53°. 

4:th. — Cut down and placed under the benches the 
Dahlias that have been grown during summer in pots. 
47°_48°. 

^th. — The Bouvardias, Carnations, Stevias, etc., are now 
blooming profusely. 33° — 40°. 

Qfh. — The cold weather warns us that everything must 
soon be secured, so to-day we take up, divide, and pot 
for spring sales, herbaceous plants of all kinds. 31° — 40°. 

1th. — Last night's frost finally destroyed the Dahlias, 
so we lifted them up and secured them to-day, by drying 
on the empty benches of the green-house. Those to be 
started for cuttings in March are now placed at once in 
soil and kept there without water until they start ; in this 
way every root can be saved. 30° — 42°. 

dith. — Planted in the open ground the Strawberry run- 
ners that were layered in pots, and covered them close 
up to the neck of the plants with rough manure. Put in 
Carnation, Begonia, Petunia, Verbena, and other cuttings, 
for the first time, from plants that have been growing m 
the green- house. 41 ° — 52°. 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 269 

^th. — Put Tuberose bulbs that have been dried on the 
top of the benches underneath, to make room for plants 
needing light. 42°— 50°. 

lO^A. — Overhauled boilers and examined valves, prepar- 
atory to winter work. 42° — 51°. 

12th. — Again resumed the potting of the general col- 
lection of Roses, which had to be partially suspended for 
more pressing work. First snow, 2 inches deep. 34° — 40°. 

ISth. — Potted Verbena cuttings and Roses. 33° — 32°. 

14th. — Lifted Violets from open exposure and placed 
them in a sheltered spot for planting out for stock in 
spring. 30° — 45°. 

15th. — ^Put in cuttings of Variegated and other Geran- 
iums from plants that have been under glass since October 
5th. 33°— 34°. - 

iQth. — Potted off cuttings of Geraniums that were put 
in the cutting bench in September. The cuttings were 
too soft, owing to the season, when they were put in, and 
in consequence have taken longer to root, yet have nearly 
all taken. 36°— 40°. 

l>Yfh. — Lifted and potted stock plants of Chrysanthe- 
mums and Phloxes. 28°— 25°. 

19th. — Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums, Geraniums, 
Carnations, etc. 18° — 25°. 

20th. — Lifted Roses from the open ground and heeled 
them in under cover, as we are apprehensive they may 
yet freeze in the ground, and our potting of Roses is two 
weeks later than usual. 37° — 39°. 

21s^.— The same. 33°— 40°. 

22d. — Received six cases of new plants from London, 
in fair order ; we find tliis time of the year and March the 
safest in which to import. Earlier in the season, the tem- 
perature is too high, and in the time intervening between 
November and March there is danger from frost. 32° — 43°. 

23d. — ^Put in cuttings of Roses made from ripened 
wood, and placed them in a cold frame, so sheltered as not 



!iJTO PE ACTIO AL FLORICULTURE. 

to be frozen in winter. But the result from this method 
is far less satisfactory than in propagating Roses from out- 
tings of the young wood; here we lose an average of 50 
per cent, while from the young shoots, if done at the time 
and in the manner described in the Chapter on Propaga- 
tion, not even 1 per cent need be lost. 39° — 45°. 

25i5A. — Removed the shading from the glass over Chi-, 
nese Primroses. 44° — 49°. 

26^A.— The same. 50°— 47°. 

21th. — Cleared the ground of the remaining Roses and 
Shrubs, preparatory to plowing up for winter. 34° — 
43°. 

28^A.— The same as yesterday. 43°— 48°. 

29^A. — Overhauled and arranged recently potted off 
plants. Tuberose flowers are now produced in quantity 
from bulbs that were planted in benches in green-house, 
on August 1st ; price $6 per 100 florets. 42° — 50° 

30^^.- The same. 38°— 24°. 

• DECEMBER, 1867. 

2d, — ^Potted off cuttings of Carnations and Pinks that 
were put in on the 11th of October; loss heavy, as they 
have been put in two weeks too early. 27° — 28°. 

Zd. — ^Potted off cuttings of Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, 
etc., which were put in a month ago. Yery successful. 
30°— 35°. 

4:th. — Continued potting Roses, and putting in hard- 
wood cuttings of Roses. 26° — 30°. 

^th. — Flowers of Bouvardias, Carnations, Heliotropes, 
Roses, and Tuberoses, are now produced in large quanti- 
ties from the plantations previously made, as recorded. We 
find that in the planting out of Tuberose bulbs on the 15th 
of July, 1st of August, and 15th of August, those planted on 
the 1st of August give the most profitable results ; the first 
date bemg too early, brings them in while the market is 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 271 

glutted, while by that of the 15th of August, the bulbs 
get too much exhausted by being kept dry too long out of 
season. 26°— 28°. 

Qth. — Finished potting Roses. The operation has oc- 
cupied in the potting alone the time of three hands for 
about three weeks, the average work of each being 700 
plants per day. 

7th. — Put in cuttings of Verbenas, Carnations, Zonale 
and Variegated Geraniums, Pelargoniums, and soft wooded 
plants of all kinds, the condition of the temperature from 
this date to the middle of March being such that cut- 
tings of every description are rooted with unerring cer- 
tainty, if the simple conditions which we lay down in 
Chapter on Propagation are followed. 

9fh. — At this date, we number 20,000 of our staple 
plant, Verbena. These we will multiply from ten to fif- 
teen fold, until the first week in May, which is as late as 
the Verbena can be propagated, to make a plant of suffi- 
cient strength. 30°— 26°. 

10th. — Potted ojff Carnation cuttings, which were put 
in on November 8th, from plants grown under glass, and 
which have done very well. Repotted and cleaned up 
Double White Primroses. 27°— 28°. 

ll^A. — Put in green cuttings of Bouvardias. This 
mode of propagating the Bouvardia is not so good as by 
the root, but it is necessary sometimes to do so when we 
wish to increase new sorts rapidly. 27° — 28°. 

12th. — Put in cuttings of a general assortment of 
plants. 20°— 8°. 

13^A.— The same. 4°— 8°. 

14th. — Pat in Carnation cuttings from plants that have 
been somewhat exhausted by forcing for flowers. 14° — 
12°. 

(JVbte. — 10th January, 1868. Result nearly a failure, 
owing to the unsettled condition of the cutting). 

16^^. — Began staking Roses to-day. If stakes are pro- 



2T2 PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

videcl, the average work for each hand is 500 plants per 
day. Experienced hands should nearly double that 
number. 16°— 24°. 

V7th. — Put in cuttings of the new Fuchsias, Chrysan- 
themums, etc., from the plants which were received from 
]^:ngland on November 22d. 22°— 28°. 

ISth. — Repotted Lantanas, Variegated Geraniums, and 
other plants, kept in hot-house range. 23° — 20°. 

19^A.— Potted off cuttings. 11°— 10°. 

20th.— The same. 8°— 26°. 

21st. — ^Put in root cuttings of Anemone. (See Propa- 
gation). 22°— 26°. 

23c?. — Shipped to-day large numbers of Verbenas, 
packed in close boxes. (See Chapter on Packing). 28° — 
26°. 

2Uh. — ^Put in cuttings of Coleus, Lantanas, Fuchsias, 
Petunias, etc., etc. 27°— 30°. 

25i5A.— Christmas Day. 30°— 36°. 

2Qth. — Continued propagation of all kinds of plants. 
42°— 38°. 

27ifA.— The same. 44°— 40°. 

2Sth. — ^Repotted Zonale and Variegated Geraniums, to 
induce growth to produce growth for cuttings. 36° — 42°. 

30^A. — Cleared off the roots of Tuberoses that have 
done flowering (those that were planted in July and 
August). The last flowers sold at $8.00 per 100 florets on 
the 24th inst. Could they have been kept until January 
1st, they would have sold one-third higher. Cut flowers 
to-day in large quantities, to be made up in baskets and 
)ouquets for New Year's Day. 26° — 24° 

3l5^. The same. 

JAIOJAEY, 1868. 

2nd. — ^Put in scales of Lilium auratum and other Lilies. 
See " Propagation." Sowed seeds of Lobelia PaxtoTiii, Del- 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 273 

phiniiim, and other plants suitable for bedding out for sum- 
mer. 28°— 32°. 

ord. — Repotted stock plants of Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, 
Lantanas, Petunias, etc., to encourage growth to produce 
cuttings. 29°— 34°. 

4th.— The same. 24°— 28°. 

6^A.— The same. 14°— 26°. 

7th. — Repotted Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, 
Petunias, etc., from 2-inch to 4-inch pots, to produce growth 
for spring sales. 20°— 30°. 

Sth. — Large quantities of Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuch- 
sias, etc., are now put in the propagating benches, this 
being, perhaps, the best season to root cuttings, to give 
fine plants in May. 24°— 32°. 

9th. — Washed the soil from " pot bound " plants of 
Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, and similar plants grown in 
bench pots, and re-potted in fresh soil in pots of similar size. 
For detail of this method see Potting of Plants. 28° — 14°. 

lO^A.— The same. 4°— 12°. 

ll^A.— The same. 14°— 18°. 

13^A. — First lot of Chrysanthemum cuttings put in from 
general collection. 10° — 12°. 

14^A. — Shifted La Pactole and Safrano Roses that are 
forcing to produce winter flowers. 10° — 20°. 

15^A.— The same. 14°— 22°. 

IQth.—The same. 18°— 22°. 

17th. — Pricked out in shallow boxes, one inch apart, the 
seedling plants sown on the 2nd inst.. 12° — 20°. 
1 18^A. — Potted off from propagating house struck cut- 
tings of Petunias, Heliotropes, Variegated Geraniums, etc. 
10°— 22°. 

20th.— The same. 20°— 31°. 

21st.— The same. 18°— 34°. 

22nd.— The same. 20°— 14°. 

23?'C?. — Potted Anemone Japonica from root cuttings 
put in on the 21st ult. 22°— 18°. 



274 PllACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

24th. — Again potted off Verbenas in large quantities, 
and filled up the place occupied by them in the bench with 
cuttings. 19°— 24°. 

2^/1.— The same. 20°— 18°. 

2Qth. — Weather is steady and moderate, which is taken 
advantage of to ship plants to all parts of the country. 
Packing is done securely, so that almost every case is re- 
ceived in safety. See Chapter on Packing. 20° — 22°. 

28th. — All operations bub firing and watering nearly 
suspended, in consequence of all hands being occupied in 
getting up orders and packing. 18° — 24°. 

2^th. — Potted off Passiflora cserulea from root cuttings. 
Potted off in 2-inch pots Delphiniums and Lobelias that 
had been pricked out in shallow boxes on the 17th inst. 
22°— 28°. 

SOth. — Continued to pot rooted cuttings of Verbenas, 
Geraniums, etc., filling up the space by fresh cuttings 
as soon as cleared. 16° — 12°. 

Slst. — ^Finished staking Roses to-day. 8° — 16°. 

FEBRUARY, 1868. 

1st. — "Plunged" Roses in refuse hops to the rims of 
the pots. We find this a great saving in watering, besides 
keeping the roots in a uniform condition of moisture, con 
ducive to healthy growth. 8° — 16°. 

2nd.— The same. 8°— 16°. 

Srd.—The same. 6°— 4°. 

4th.— The same. Zero— 6°. 

5th. — Cleared the benches of Eupatorium angustifolium, 
which had done flowering, and filled up with spring stock. 
4°— 18°. 

6^A.— The same. 22°— 28°. 

7th. — ^Put in cuttings of Lantanas, Fuchsias, Antirrhi 
nums. Petunias, &c. 22°— 28°. 

S^A.— The same. 1° below zero— 12°. 



DIARY OF OPERAnONS. 275 

10^^. — Cleared off Bouvardias that have been forcing 
for flowers, cutting off the tops and planting the roots 
closely together in shallow boxes, and placing them under 
the bench. Such roots make splendid plants for next sea- 
son, or the roots may be cut up for propagation. 12° — 8°. 

11th. — The same. 

12th. — Arranged plants on the benches where the Bou 
vardia and other flowering plants had been growing. Zero 
—26°. 

ISth. — Continued plunging Roses, as begun on the 1st 
inst., placing them, according to the size of the plant, at 
such distances apart as will allow the outside shoots to be 
an inch or so from each other. A house full of Roses in 
the dormant state when the pots are placed close to each 
other should fill, when thinned out, just about double the 
space, to give them sufiicient room to grow. 20° — 32°. 

14:th. — The same. 

15fh. — The same. 

17th. — Put in cuttings of Phloxes and Chrysanthemums. 
14°— 32°. 

18^A. — Put in cuttings of Begonias, Stevias, Eupatoriums, 
etc., etc., to produce plants to grow in summer for next 
winter's flowers. 

19th. — Cleared out Carnation plants that have been 
forced for flower. As such plants are of but little use after 
they have been thus forced, we find it most profitable to 
throw them away and replace them by young and fresh 
stuff. 22°— 30°. 

20th. — Pricked out rooted cuttings of Carnations 1 inch 
apart in shallow boxes, to economize space ; we find that 
thus treated and planted out in the open ground they do 
quite as well as if they had been potted, and nearly one- 
half the space is saved. 30° — 34°. 

21st. — Put in large quantities of the leading bedding 
plants, such as Verbenas, Petunias, Heliotropes, Gera- 
niums, etc., for succession crops. 36° — 30°. 



276 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

22nd.— The same. 26°— 30°. 

24^A.— The same. 24°— 16°. 

26th. — Put in first Rose cuttings from young wood, of 
some new sorts which are scarce with us. It is too soon 
for the general crop. Finished thinning out and plung- 
ing Roses. 17°— 22°. 

2Gth. — Put in cuttings of Lantana, Variegated Gera- 
niums, etc. 

27^A.— The same. 24°— 30°. 

28^^.- The same. 28°— 26°. 

29th. — First sowing of Tomato, Pepper, and Egg Plant 
seeds in shallow boxes for spring plants, in a night temper 
ature of 65°. 22°— 20°. 

MARCH, 1868. 

2nd. — ^Put in first cuttings of Dahlias, new Chrysanthe 
mums, new Fuchsias, etc. 12° — 10°. 

Srd. — Pricked off seedling Petunias in shallow boxes 1 
inch apart each way. Sowed Verbena seeds in shallow 
boxes ; as they germinate slowly, care is taken to cover 
with finely-sifted leaf mould to the depth of ^ of an inch, 
and sprinkle daily, so that they never get dry. Tempera- 
ture at ni^ht 60° to 65°. Zero— 4°. 

4th. — Began to put in Rose cuttings in quantity, care 
being taken not to let the bottom heat exceed 65°, with 
an atmosphere of 10 or 15 degrees lower. See Propaga- 
tion for further details. Zero — 20°. 

6th. — The same. 

Qth. — Potted off Pelargonium cuttings in fine order; 
they will make fine, healthy plants by May. 16° — 33°. 

7th. — We are now shipping large quantities. 32° — 34''. 

9th. — ^Put in cuttings of all sorts in large quantities. 
30°_40°. 

lO^A. — Second sowing of Tomatoes, Pepper, and Egg 
Plant seeds for succession. 32° — 30°. 



DIAEY OF OPERAITONS. 27? 

11th. — Put in Rose cuttings in large quantities. 36° — 
25°. 

12^A.— The same. 30°— 30° 

ISth. — Pricked out in shallow boxes, 1 to 1^ inches apart, 
the Tomato and Pepper and Egg Plants sown on the 29th 
ult. Average work for one hand is about 3,000 plants per 
day. 36°— 42°. 

14:th. — The same. 

16^7*. — ^Put in cuttings of Dahlias, Fuchsias, etc. 42° — 
44°. 

17th. — Potted off the Rose cuttings which were put in 
on the 25th ult. ; an entire success. 40° — 46°. 

18^A. — ^Placed young Carnation plants out in cold frames, 
to harden them off, preparatory to planting them out in 
the open ground. 38° — 42°. 

19^A.— The same. 30°— 40°. 

20^A.— The same. 30°— 34°. 

22nd. — Continued putting in Rose and Verbena cut- 
tings in large quantities. 28° — 30°. 

23rd— The same. 30°— 42°. 

24:th. — ^Pricked out in shallow boxes the Zinnias and 
Asters, which were sown on the 6th inst. 30° — 42°. 

25th.— Now shipping largely. 30°— 28°. 

26^A. — The second sowing of Tomatoes and Egg Plants 
was pricked out in boxes. Continued putting in Rose 
cuttings in large quantities. 30° — 26°. 

27^A.— The same. 40°— 44°. 

28^A. — Pricked out in shallow boxes the seedling plants 
of Verbenas that were sown on the 3d inst. 32° — 38°. 

30^A.— The same. 30°— 36°. 

Slst. — ^Potted off Rose cuttings that were put in on the 
4th inst. 32°— 48°. 

APRIL, 1868. 

l5^.— -The same. 23°— 48°. 

2nd. — Began to plant in the open ground Carnations 



278 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

and Pinks that are to be kept for our own stock, {^ote.— 
May 2nd. Since these have been planted, the ground has 
been frozen solid to tlie depth of 4 inches, or below the ball 
of roots, yet not a single i3lant is killed, or even injured. 
The Carnation, be it remembered, is almost a hardy plant, 
and if not raised too tender, will stand a great amount of 
cold without injury. Our lesson from this, then, is that, if 
we have plants in the necessary hardy condition, they may 
be planted out just as soon as the ground is dry enough 
to work with advantage in spring). 32° — 30°. 

Srd. — Potted off Verbenas, and continued planting Car- 
nations outside. 30°— 32°. {JVote.—Maj 2nd. Those 
planted from the boxes show quite as well as those that 
had been grown in pots.) 

4th. — Put in cuttings of Coleus, Lantanas, Bouvardia 
roots, and such cuttings as require the higher temperature 
that the brighter sunshine now gives. 30° — 48°. 

5th. — Began potting off a large quantity of Yerbenas 
to-day; potted even at this date, they form splendid 
plants. 25°— 34°. 

7th. — Put in cuttings of Dahlias and Lemon Yerbenas — 
the latter for next year's stock. 

Sth. — Continued making Rose cuttings and potting off 
sucli as are rooted. 45° — 40°. 

9^A.— The same. 24°— 36°. 

lO^A.- The same. 28°— 34°. 

nth.— The same. 26°— 32°. 

ISth. — ^Put in cuttings of Lobelia, Pyrethrum, and simi- 
lar plants, for baskets and vases. 25° — 30°. 

Uth.— The same. 40°— 44°. 

15^A. — Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums, and Zonale, 
Variegated, and Rose Geraniums for stock. 50° — 60°. 

lO^A.- The same. 48°— 52°. 

17th. — Continued putting in Verbena and Rose cuttings 
and planted out Carnations in open ground. No Rose 
cuttings yet planted out, on account of a very wet spelL 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 279 

There would be no danger from frost now, were the ground 
sufficiently dry. 40^—44°. 

ISth.—The same. 

20th. — Sowed Tomatoes for a succession crop. 44° — 40°. 

21st. — ^Put in cuttings of Double White Primula, *^"or 
fall stock. 42°— 48°. 

22nd. — First planting of Roses in the open ground. 
Plants in very fine condition. Tiiey Avould have been 
planted 10 days ago if the ground had been fit. 46° — 52°. 

23rd. — The same. 

24^A. — ^Put in to-day 20,000 Verbena cuttings, which 
will be the last for this season, as they will not make good 
plants much later. These, however, will make very fine 
plants by the end of May. 32° — 44°. 

25th. — ^Put in cuttings of Dahlias and Double Ge- 
raniums. 40°— 36°. 

27th. — Selected the best Pansies, and planted them out 
for seed for stock. 40°— 48°. 

28^A.— Planted out Roses. 36°— 42°. 

29^A.— The same. 42°— 46°. 

30th. — Last Rose cuttings for the season made to-day ; 
later than this, it is uphill work propagating Roses, owing 
to the increased heat of the advancing season. 42° — 60°. 

MAT, 1868. 

1st — ^Planted out Lilies, Paeonias, and other hardy 
plants, in open ground. 42° — 60°. 

2nd. — Planted out in open ground seedling Yerbenas 
from the boxes in which they have been pricked out, at dis- 
tances of 18 inches between the rows, and 4 inches be- 
tween the plants. They are put thus close to admit of re- 
jecting inferior sorts as they flower. 46° — 52°. 

4:th. — Pricked out Egg Plants from third sowing, (April 
20th) and also potted those previously pricked out in 
boxes. Egg Plants being rather difficult to transplant, 



280 PRACTICAli FLOKICULTURJi. 

we prefer to pot them, but there is no occasion to put 
Tomato or Pepper plants in pots. 46° — 54°. 

5^A. — Potted off root cuttings of Bouvardia in large 
quantities. 48° — 52°. 

Qth. — ^Planted out in the open ground stock plants of 
Variegated and Zonale Geraniums, the ones we have been 
propagating from all winter. 50° — 53°. 

Ith. — Put in cuttings of Dahlias, and potted off such as 
are rooted. 50° — 44°. 

Sth. — Put in cuttings of Lemon Verbenas for next sea- 
son's stock, and potted off the last of Verbena cuttings 
for the season. 42° — 52°. 

9^A. — Potted off a general assortment of bedding plants, 
mostly new, for our own stock. 46"^ — 54°. 

ll^A.— Planted out Roses largely. 48°— 56°. 

12th. — ^Potted off some Rose cuttings ; there was some 
slight loss, owing to a rather high temperature. 46° — 50°. 

13ifA. — ^Potted off the Lemon Verbenas that were put 
in on the 7th ult. ; found them too largely rooted, but had 
no room to pot off until now. They should have been pot- 
ted 10 days ago. 52°— 56°. 

14^A. — Put in cuttings of Chrysanthemums, Phloxes, 
and Lantanas, for plants for next fall and winter sales. 
54°— 55°. 

15^/i.— The same. 50°— 58°. 

16(5^.— The same. 

18^A. — ^Potted off Geraniums, etc., etc. As we are run- 
ning short of Egg Plants, have put in 1,000 of the tops 
as cuttings. 54° — 56°. 

l^th. — Potted off Dahlias and Lemon Verbenas. 50° 
-^54°. 

20^A.— The same. 52°— 56°. 

22nd. — ^Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums for fall and 
winter stock. 52° — 56°. 

2Srd. — Potted off last lot of Rose cuttings for the 
season. 54° — 64°. 



DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 281 

25th. — Potted off Double White Primulas put in on 
the 21st ult., with a loss not exceeding 1 per cent. The 
last 6 days have been very wet. 58° — 66°. 

2Qth. — Planted out stock plants of Petunias, Calceola- 
rias, Pentstemons, etc. 57° — 68°. 

27th. — Planted out Roses in large quantities to-day. 
58°— 56°. 

28^^.— The same. 54°— 60°. 

29th.— The same. 58°— 64°. 

SOth.—The same. 62°— 68°. 

JUNE, 1868. 

l5^.— The same. 64°— 68°. 

2nd. — Potted off cuttings of Egg Plants that were put 
in on the 18th inst. 62°— 66°. 

Srd. — Potted last lots of Chrysanthemums, Phloxes, 
and Lantanas, that were put in on the 14th ult. 60° — - 
64°. 

4th. — Continued to put in Dahlia cuttings. 64° — 68°. 

5th. — Planted out our collection of hardy herbaceous 
plants. 66°— 70°. 

6^A.— The same. 68°— 72°. 

8th. — Topped Carnation plants that were planted out 
on April 2nd, to keep tliem dwarf and bushy. 60° — 64°. 

9th. — Potted off Dahlias and Double White Primroses. 
62°— 66°. 

lO^A. — Repotted stock plants of Double White Prim- 
roses. They are kept under glass during summer, and 
shaded by whitewashing the glass from May 1st to No- 
vember 1st, heavier shading being given during the months 
of July and August. 54°— 60°. 

11^^. — Shifted the Lemon Verbenas that were potted on 
May 13th from 2-inch to 4-inch pots, in which they will 
remain all summer. 64° — 68°. 

12^A. — Washed the soil entirely from the roots of stock 
Pelargoniums, which have been exhausted by excessive 



382 PKACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 

cutting for propagation, and potted in a size smaller pots. 
66°— 68°. 

I'^th. — Planted out Bouvardias at the distance of 9 
inches each way. 68°— 70°. 

16th. — ^Finished planting out Roses. 64° — 66°. 

IQth. — Repotted La Pactole, Safrano, Hermosa, and 
other Roses, to be kept in pots during summer and fall, to 
force for flowers in winter. 62° — 66°. 

18^A.— Planted out stock Dahlias. 66°— 72°. 

19^A. — ^The same. 

20th. — Planted out large Roses that have been left 
unsold. 78°— 82°. 

22??d'.— The same. 60°— 62°. 

23rt^.— The same. 60°— 72°. 

24^A. — ^Planted out what remained of stock plants. 58° 
—64°. 

25^A. — Carnations have been much injured by continued 
rains ; we observe that they are more susceptible of injury 
from wet than any other plant we grow. In anticipation 
of a dry, hot spell, we now mulch, to protect the few roots 
they may have left. 60° — 68°. 

26^^. — Cleared out all plants from the green-houses, and 
placed them outside, except a few things, such as Double 
Primulas, Daphnes, Pelargoniums, etc., which would be 
injured by excessive rains. 60° — 66°. 

21th. — Repotted different kinds of plants that are kept 
in pots for winter, such as Chrysanthemums, Eupatoiiums, 
Roses, Poinsettias, Heliotropes, etc. 64° — 76°. 

29^A. — Potted off last lot of Pelargonium cuttings, for 
the season. 66° — 74°. 

30^A.— The same. 

JULY, 1868. 

l5^. — Repotted Roses for winter flowering. 68° — 70°. 
27id. — Potted off Dahlia cuttings, the last for the season ; 



DIAET OF OPERATIONS. 283 

later tlian this, the roots would hardly ripen sufficiently. 
66°— 68°. 

3r^.— The same. 72°— 72°. 

6th. — Shifted Dahlias from 2 to 3-inch pots, where they 
will now remain for the season, care being taken, however, 
to thin out the shoots and lower leaves, to admit sufficient 
air to the roots to ripen the tubers. 72° — 76°. 

7^A.— The same. 70°— 70°. ^' 

8^A.— The same. 72°— 78°. 

9^A.— The same. 74°— 76°. 

10th. — Shifted Pactole, Safrano, and other Roses for 
winter flowerino;. 76° — 80°. 

11th. — The same. 

ISth. — Topped Carnations, to induce a dwarf growth 
and prevent them from exhausting themselves now by 
flowering, as the flowers are required only in winter. 82 



OO 



14:th. — Weather exceedingly hot ; nothing done but to 
water the plants and clean up. 76° — 88°. 

16th.— The same. 80°— 90°. 

16^A.— The same. 88°— 88°. 

17^/i.— The same. 76°— 80°. 

18th.— The same. 88°— 88°. 

20^A.— The same. 70°— 74°. 

21s^.— The same. 72°— 72°. 

22nd. — Shifted Heliotropes, Chrysanthemums, Roses, 
&c., for winter flowering. 74° — 76°. 

2Srd.—The same. 72°— 74°. 

24^A.— The same. 72°— 72°. 

25th. — ^Planted out dry bulbs of Tuberoses on benches, 
in 5 inches of well-prepared, rich soil ; these we expect to 
flower in December. Every alternate sash is removed 
from the green-house, so that they have almost full ex- 
posure to the open air. 76° — 80°. 

27ih. — ^Repotted Stevia compacta and other winter- 
blooming plants. 74° — ^76°. 



284 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUEE. 

2StJi. — Layered in 2-inch pots Roses of some new sorts 
that are scarce. Tliere is little loss in layering Roses if it 
be done in small pots sunk in the soil. 66° — 74°. 

29^A.— The same. 

SOth. — Shifted Cyclamens and Double White Primroses, 
and thinned out the Primroses, spreading them over 
a larger surface, to admit air around the pots. 68° — 74°, 

31st,— The same. 70°— 74°. 

AUGUST, 1868. 

Ist. — Second planting of Tuberoses in the manner done 
on the 25th ult. Will endeavor to retard this lot by keep- 
ing the soil as dry as possible, the great object being to 
delay the flowering until January. 72° — 78°. 

Srd. — The same. 

4^A.— The same. 72°— 78°. 

5th. — To-day "we pot dry roots of Tuberoses, placing 
them in a cool shed and keeping them dri/. They can be 
thus kept in a shed for 10 or 12 days, after which they 
must be exposed to the open air, but will still be kept 
as dry as possible until they begin to grow. They 
will be thus kept in pots (2 roots in a 6-inch i)ot,) until 
there is danger of frost, when they will be planted out in 
soil on the benches as the others are. The object of pot- 
ting them at all is that their removal to the benches can be 
done without injury to the roots, which could not be ef- 
fected unless they were first potted. If we had planted 
them at once in the bench we do not think we could 
keep them back so well, as by placing them in a partially 
shaded place in the open air. — Cut over for the last time 
this season those Carnations that are wanted to produce 
flowers in December and January. 70° — 76°. 

Qth. — Shifted winter-flowering plants of all kinds. 70** 
—78°. 

7^A.— The same. 70°— 76°. 

8^A.— The same. 72°— 74°. 



DIARY OP OPERATIONS. 285 

10th. — Potted oif cuttings, and shifted into larger pots, 
Clirysanthemum laciniatum (the winter-flowering variety). 
72°— 76°. 

ll^A.— The same. 74*— 78°. 

l2th.-~The same. 60°— 64°. 

iSth. — Put in green cuttings of Bouvardia, Cissus, &c. 
54°— 60°. 

14:th. — Shifted for the last time this season Roses that 
are to be used for winter flowering. 55° — 62°. 

15th. — The same. 

17th. — Shifted Eupatoriums, Stevias, Poinsettias, and 
other winter-flowering plants, for the last time this season. 
The next shifting will be from the pots to planting out in 
the benches. 66°— 74°. 

18^A. — Washed the soil from the roots of Roses that have 
become " pot bound," and repotted in new pots with fresh 
soil. This practice we find very efifectual to recuperate all 
plants that have been stunted by any cause whatever. 64° 
—72°. 

19th. — Topped Bouvardias, to keep them dwarf and 
delay the flowering until the winter months. 70° — 80°. 

20^A.— The same. 75°— 72°. 

21s^.— The same. 72°— 70°. 

22?zd— The same. 68°— 70°. 

24:th. — ^Layered new sorts of Roses in pots, and put in 
green cuttings of Bouvardias, Cissus, Clerodendrons, and 
other plants of a tropical nature. [Wote. — September 5th. 
This resulted successfully). 70°— 76°. 

25^A. — Cut down stock plants of Pelargoniums, and put 
in the shoots as cutting;s. The Pelaro-oniums have been 
kept under glass all summer, slightly shaded, and have 
ripened their shoots finely, so that, no doubt, nearly every 
cutting will grow. Great difficulty is always found with 
the rooting of Pelargoniums that have been planted out. 
The cut-down plants will, of course, receive no watei un- 
til they begin to grow. 6-^° — 74°. 



286 PRACTICAL FLORICULTUEE. 

26^A.— The same. 68°— 74°. 

27th. — Repotted Poinsettia, Heliotrope, Eupaloriimi ele- 
gans, and stock plants of Lantanas, for the last time until 
they are placed in winter quarters. 64° — 72°. 

2Sth. — Shook out and overhauled stock Fuchsias that 
have been injured by exposure outdoors to heavy rains. 
62°— 75°. 

29^A.— The same. 

8l5^. — Cut down stock Heliotropes and put in the cut- 
tings. 70°— 74°. 

SEPTEMBER, 1868. 

1st. — ^Potted off cuttings of new Bouvardias that were 
put in on the 13th inst., only about one-half of which have 
rooted, owing to too high a temperature. 72° — 80°. 

''2nd. — Shifted Safrano and other Roses thus early, so 
that they may become sufficiently rooted in the pots to 
force for winter flowers. 65°- — 70°. 

Zrd. — Cut back Petunias, shrubby Calceolarias, Cen- 
taureas, &c., to produce young shoots for cuttings, which 
they will do by the end of the month. The hard growth of 
the flowering shoots, or even the ordinary growth of the 
blind shoots made in summer, is too hard for the purpose. 
See the necessary condition of the cutting in Chapter on 
Propagation. 56° — 60°. 

Ath.—The same. 50°— 61°. 

^th. — Lifted and potted Bouvardias from the open 
ground and placed them against a north wall outdoors. 
Careful attention is necessary in shading and watering 
until they begin to root. 55° — 58°. 

7^A.— The same. 64°— 62°. 

Sth. — ^Put in cuttings of Mrs. Pollock and other golden 
tricolor Geraniums in propagating house. The propaga- 
tion of all classes of Geraniums will now be continued from 
the plants growing outdoors, from now to the end of the 
month. The plants of such as are wanted for stock are lifted 
and potted, as soon as cut down for cuttings. 60° — 61°. 



INDEX. 



.4^ 

ft' 



Amaryllis 157 

Anomatheca 158 

Antin-liiuum majus 86-229 

Annuals and Biennials 248 

Aspect of Garden 9 

Azaleas 177 

Babiana 159 

Balsams, Donble 17G 

Base-Burner Heater 77 

•Baskets, Construction of 179 

Baskets, Hanging 196 

Battersea Park 29 

Begonias 175 

Bignonia jasminoides and venusta. .176 

Boilers 74 

Bouquets, Construction of 179 

Bouvardias 171 

Caladiura esculentum 230 

Calceolarias, Herbaceous 229 

Shrubby ...229 

Camellias, Propagation and Culture. 161 

Canna Indica 86-229 

Cape Bulbs, Varieties and Culture.. 156 

Carnations 165 

" Monthly 229 

Chinese Primrose, Donble White.. .170 

Clirysanthemums, Chinese 230 

" Japanese 179 

Cinerarias 229 

Cobaea scandens 87 

Cold Frames 50 

Coleus 87 

" Verschaffeltii 229 

Cottage Gardens 203 

Dahlias 231 

" Propagation of 93 

Delphiniums 230 

Design for a City or Village Lot 13 

" " Flower Garden 21 

" " Parterre 25 

Diary of Operations 262 

Drainage 19 

Drainage of Pots 45 

Eupatoriums 173 

Ferneries 195 

Florists' Pinks 236 

Flower-Beds in Walks 27 

" " Planting of 28 

Flower-Garden, Design for 21 

" " Laying out 12 

287 



Flowers for Shade 242 

Flues Gl 

Foliage, Plants Used for 178 

Forcing House 62 

Fuchsias 175-232 

Garden, Aspect and Soil for 9 

Garden Workmen, Expert 48 

Geraniums 199 

" Bronze-leaved 233 

" Golden-margined 233 

" Golden Tricolors 233 

" Ivy-leaved 234 

" Scented-leaved 234 

" Silver-margined 233 

" Silver Tricolors ... 233 

" Variegated-leaved 233 

" Zonale 87-232 

Gladiolus 156 

Grapes Under Glass 253 

Greenhouse Structures 53 

" Attached to Dwellings.. 60 

" Ventilator 137 

Hsemanthus 160 

Hanging Baskets 196 

Hardy Herbaceous Plants 249 

Heaths 177 

Heating, Modes of 71 

Heliotropes 174-234 

Hitching & Co.'s Boilers 74 

Holland Bulbs 153 

Hollow Walls 64 

Hollyhock 234 

Hot-Beds, Construction of 52 

Hot-House 62 

How Plants and Flowers arc Grown. 102 

How to Become a Florist 227 

Hj'acinths in Glasses 155 

" Winter-Flowering 176 

Insects 207 

Ants 210 

Aphis 210 

Aphis, Ground or BIitc 208 

Blue Aphis .208 

Carnation Twitter 216 

Green Fly 210 

Ground Aphis 208 

Mealy Bug 215 

Eed Spider 212 

Rose Bug ...208 

RoseSluir 208 



288 



PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



Scale Insects 215 

Thrips 216 

Verbena Mite '. . 213 

Ixias 158 

Jasminum grandiflorum 175 

Laclienalias 159 

Lantanas 87 

Larkspurs 230 

Lawn, Grass for 12 

'^ To Lay out 11 

Lemon Verbena 235 

Lilies, List of Ill 

Lilies. Propag-ation of. 108 

Lily of the Valley 178 

Lobelia Erinus 87 

" gracilis 235 

Mailing Plants 223 

Mignonette 176 

Mildew on Roses 106 

Mimulus luteus 235 

" moschatus 235 

Moisture and Temperature 35 

Musk Plant 235 

Nasturt iums 238 

Nature's Law of Colors 218 

Nerine 157 

Orchid Culture .150 

Ornithogaluui aureum 153 

Osalis 159 

Packing Plants 221 

Panicum variegatum 197 

Pansy 88 

Parlor Gardening 100 

Parterre, Design for 25 

Pelargoniums 237 

Pentstemons 235 

Petunias ;;8-235 

Pinks, Florists' SS-23G 

" Mule 23G 

Plants, Arc they injurious to health ? 217 

'• Bedding 229 

" by Mail 223 

" Green liousc ••-44 

'• Hot-house or Stove ..- 246 

Soft-wooded 229 

Planting of Flower Bed? 28 

Potting Cuttings 90 

Plants 41 

" Soils for 32 

Poinsettia ])ulcherrima 174 

Primrose, Double White Chinese. . .170 

Propagation by Cuttings 89 

" by Seeds 79 



Propagation of Succulent Plants . .239 

Profits of Floriculture 224 

Protection in Winter 50 

Pyrethrum, Golden Featlier 236 

Roads 20 

Rock-work, Formation of 206 

Root Cuttings 94 

Rose, Culture of 112 

Roses, House for Forcing 131 

" in Pots , 127 

" List of Select 115 

'• Preserving Monthly in Win- 
ter 123-169 

" Propagation 119 

" Winter Flowering 129-169 

Salvias 88-238 

Saucer System of Propagating 100 

Shade, Flowers for 242 

Shading 99 

Shrubs, Ornamental 252 

" Climbing 252 

Snap Dragon 235 

Soft-wooded Plants 229 

Soil for Garden 9 

" for Potting 32 

Sparaxis 158 

Split Cuttings. 94 

Stevias 173 

Stocks, Intermediate 237 

Succulent Plants, Propagation in 

Summer '. 239 

Sweet Alyssum ■. .176 

Temi)eratnre and Moisture 35 

Tigridia 160 

Tropseolum 238 

Tuberose, Culture of 144-169 

Tulips...' 155 

Varieties tliat Coire True from Seed 83 

Verbena, Black Rust on 141 

'• Ciillivatiou of 88-140 

Vinery 253 

Violets 167 

Walks 19 

Wardian Cases 195 

Wateri ng 37 

Window Gardening 199 

in London 203 

Winter Flowering Plants 161 

Winter Protection. 50 

Wire Designs for Cut Flowers 194 

Wreaths.. 193 

Zinnias, Double 88-238 



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